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Colonel Red Racing 2005 STI Race Car


Sgt.Gator

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radium? Nice!

Yep, Radium fuel rails. Got to support the local boys. Beautifully made kit.

There was a couple of issues with them though.

 

1) They come with 2 sizes of phenolic spacers for the two sizes of injector length. Well they probably work fine if you have oem TGVs and OEM injectors. However I have IAG TGV deletes and Cobb (Injector Dynamics). When you combine 3 aftermarket parts even though each individual part may only be 1mm different from oem, the combination can throw the total outside of the range which is what I think happened here. The short spacers were too short, and the long spacers were too long.

So after an hour of reading and re-reading the instructions and a dozen attempts to use both the short and long spacers I ended up cutting the long spacers down to fit.

 

2) They don't tell you in the instructions that the engine wire harness protector that bolts the wire harness to the intake manifold will no longer work. I'll have to come up with my own protection and secure it to the intake.

 

You can't see it in the pics <yet> but I also added the Radium dampers. Probably overkill and not needed, but I threw them in to.

 

The rails will be connected with PTFE stainless braided hose to a Perrin FPR mounted on the fenderwell.

 

I realized a bonus from cutting off the throttle body heater nipples; I can re-purpose the coolant lines for cooling the Tial MVR EWG. But of course Tial uses 8mmx1.0 x -4an adaptors for the cooling ports but no one makes a -4an x 5/16th hose barb adaptor. So now I'm using a VIB 10841 -4AN Female to -6AN Male Expander Adapter to run -6an line to a Aeromotive -6an x 5/16th hose barbs.

Tial should have made the water cooling ports that same size as the air ports (10mmx1.0) so it would be easy to run -6an line.

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Edited by Sgt.Gator

Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine.

"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"

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I got a surprise tonight. I know a 2005 STI is the correct year for the A/C bracket we use for the Aviaid Dry Sump mount plate to work right. I got the bracket bolted to the block and when I went to install the Aviaid mount plate discovered only three mounting holes!

 

Apparently because it's a race car some previous owner had removed the A/C in the race conversion and decided that top mount hole wasn't doing anything and it's in the way, so he cut it off.

 

A new OEM one costs $195! I've got my recycle/wrecker guy looking for one at a more reasonable cost.

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Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine.

"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"

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I ordered the Chase Bays power steering cooler kit. So far I'm not very happy with them.

 

1) The kit arrived minus the cooler. I emailed them once, then again 2 days later and they responded that they were out of the coolers and would get back to me when they would ship me one. We went back and forth a few times where I offered that if they credited my account I would buy a cooler on my own.

20 days later so far no cooler and no credit to my account.

 

2) While waiting for the cooler or credit I wanted to get going on getting the hoses and reservoir installed while the engine is out of the bay. I got the oem system out then discovered that the hose end fittings on the Chase Bay lines appear to be the wrong ones. I went back to the website and noticed that a year ago another buyer left a review that his Subaru hoses came with the wrong fittings and Chase Bays was ignoring his emails.

I've emailed him and sent the attached pics you see here asking how these lines are supposed to connect at the rack. So far no reply.

 

3) There are no written instructions in the kit or available (I asked). The YouTube videos on the power steering installs are only partly applicable to Subarus.

 

I'm giving them until Monday evening to make good on the cooler and hose connections or it's PayPal dispute resolution time.

 

Meanwhile if I have to return the whole kit I'm working on how to make my own cooler. Subaru offered a power steering cooler on the Group N race cars so maybe I can adapt something from that.

 

For anyone else considering a power steering cooler, do it while your engine is out of the bay! I can't imagine how much harder this would be with the engine in there.

 

Edit Update: See post #206 below.

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Edited by Sgt.Gator

Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine.

"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"

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Not sure if it has already been stated or if you already know. There is a guy called "boost_junkie" on NASIOC who had a car built until it wrecked.

 

Then, he went all the way:

 

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1921025

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

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Not sure if it has already been stated or if you already know. There is a guy called "boost_junkie" on NASIOC who had a car built until it wrecked.

 

Then, he went all the way:

 

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1921025

 

I've been following his thread for years. It's actually disheartening how long it has taken him, he started in 2010 and is just now getting it to run!

Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine.

"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"

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This is an update on the Chase Bays Power Steering cooler post above.

Jonathan emailed me back. The connectors don't work on the two hard lines coming off the subframe in the pic. They are supposed to connect directly into the steering rack over on the driver's side. He warned it's a hard place to get into.

 

At first I thought holy crap, I'm going to have to drop the subframe to get in there.

 

It wasn't as hard as first thought. With the engine already out of the car it was easier. First up was removing the Oswald Performance frame brace. That turned out ok because all the bolts are easily reachable with an impact wrench. The brace really needed to come off, the insides of the bolt cups were full of gunk so a cleaning was needed. Then I had to disconnect the sway bar at the frame bushings and let it rotate down, then remove the front subframe stiffener. Finally I loosened all the steering rack bolts enough to create room.

I removed the hard pipes under the front subframe and ran the CB hoses right in the same place.*

Actually it wasn't bad at all.*

 

Written instructions or a YouTube video would have helped a lot though.

 

I will commend Chase Bays on their hoses. The pressure hose is oem+ quality. I've read several threads on NASIOC doing hose/cooler upgrades and they generally use standard AN braided hose. Chase Bays uses real high pressure line.

 

For extra protection by the up pipe/headers I'll put fire sleeve or the equivalent on it.

The coolers are possibly going to be in next week.

Pics tomorrow.

Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine.

"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"

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I've been following his thread for years. It's actually disheartening how long it has taken him, he started in 2010 and is just now getting it to run!

 

That is waaaaay too long for just about anything.

 

I like how he did the splitter and bracing up front. Not sure if that is an option for you. Provides for pretty good aero on the car.

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

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  • 3 weeks later...

The engine is almost ready to go back in the car!

I've spent a stupid amount of time on fitting the ATP Externally Gated GTX3067R and on making a custom 3" inlet pipe.

 

First up, I discovered the iron APS downpipe had a crack in it. I didn't want to risk welding iron and having it crack again in a 25 hour race, so new HKS downpipe replaced it. The HKS is one of the few 3" without a cat and no WG provisions.

 

Then I had a heck of a time getting the turbo on the uppipe and positioned correctly. First issue was the turbo uppipe flange was hitting the oem turbo brackets just enough to not sit down on the uppipe flange. I fixed that by grinding down both brackets.

 

Second, the turbo was hitting the bell housing. The ATP turbo comes with a steel spacer to fix it, but the supplied studs are not long enough to work with the spacer! After trying many alternatives I ended up buying bolts at Home Depot and getting them to work.

 

The 3" inlet was a real bear. I went thru 50 permutations until I finally got one to fit just right. One thing that sped the fitting up a lot was removing the power steering pump. With it mounted it makes mocking up the inlet much more difficult. I had to grind off the corner of the IAG TGV deletes. But what I ended up with should work great, no spigots or ports at all in the inlet! That's because I'm running Dry Sump + VTA BOV, no need for any ports.

 

I did all my mock ups/test fits on the engine stand. I can't imagine doing this work with the engine still in the car. And I don't recommend using a 3" inlet unless you have the engine out of the car. I have a 3" Perrin inlet pipe, I honestly don't know how you can make it fit without pulling the Intake Manifold off and using two people to crush it in there, which is what the instructions say to do!

 

If anybody wants the 3" Perrin it's for sale. New, still wrapped in plastic.

 

I'm having two issues with the Cosworth Dry Sump Pump/Belt/Pulley.

1) The 720 mm HPD belt is about 10 mm too short. The instructions are very adamant that there should be NO tension on the belt. Heck I can't even get it over the pump pulley at all, much less no tension. I checked into a slightly larger belt but the next size up from three manufacturers is 800 mm which will be way too long. The possibility to use an 800 would be to run the tensioner on the cogged side (inside) of the belt instead of the smooth outside. I suppose that since the tensioner is just a smooth idler pulley exactly like the timing belt idlers and there's really no tension, it just takes up slack, it might be ok, but IDK.

 

For now I'm trying to stretch the 720 mm belt a half inch using a floor jack with a couple of 3" pipes on each side to not bend the belt over too sharp a corner. It's helped a tiny bit, but not enough yet. See pic of my Colonel Red Racing belt stretcher!

 

Ideas?

 

2) I thought all the connections were -12AN. They are not, the hose from the pump > cooler> tank is -16AN. Of course my tank has all -12AN fittings and the cooler as well. Somewhere either right at the pump or probably at the cooler I have to go down to -12AN. Since this is for my STI and the cooler +tank are in the trunk I think it's best to neck down right at the cooler so the long line is still -16AN. However it would be a lot easier and cheaper to run -12AN all the way from the pump. The Element Tuning systems many of use run a -12An but the lines to the tank are pretty short. And in Element's Time Attack car the tank is in the passenger foot/door area which is a pretty short run. Having had the tank in the same place in the LGT Wagon, there's no way I'm putting the tank in the cockpit for long enduro races, the heat is unbearable.

 

Still to do:

Run fuel rail -AN lines

Run Cobb EBCS pressure lines. They are long because unlike a Legacy the EBCS is located on the fender, not the engine.

Install FMIC.

Install Inlet Air Temp Sensor. The easy place is in the intake manifold but that has heat soak - run lean issues. This will be an entirely speed density tune so it's important. the better location is in cold air charge pipe right in front of the throttle body.

Install P/S cooler

Install Tranny Cooler

Install DS Tank and Cooler in trunk

Run all the DS -AN lines

Replace all suspension bushings

Fabricate new trunk/backseat firewall

And a million other small things.

 

And decide on how many $$$ I can afford for a data logger/camera system to tie it all together.

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Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine.

"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"

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Love that doublewide trailer style belt stretcher :) Cue Sanford and Son theme song...

 

I've stretched it enough to JUST get it on, but it's under a lot of tension which will ruin the pump bearings ( which I learned the hard way on the Aviad pump last year).

 

That last bit of stretch came after baking at 175 degrees for 1 hour. Now it's back in the oven at 250 for another hour.....

 

Baked belt for dinner anyone?

Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine.

"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"

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Dang! Your givin'er to make it fit! I'd keep on eye on that, I do know that sometimes excessive heat and make rubber brittle and susceptible to failure. Maybe your not hitting it that hard at sub 250 temps but... Stoked to see this build coming together! 24hrs race documentary anyone?
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It's not going to stretch enough. I have an 800mm coming Friday, we'll see if that works. If not I'll either:

1) remove the HTD pulley and crank mandrel, replace the pump pulley with a serp pulley, and try using a serp belt on it. I'm not sure if the Cosworth pump has the standard pump shaft size though.

2) switch the Cosworth pump out for an Aviaid with a serp belt.

 

I found this today: Subaru makes a terminal harness repair kit that's pretty dang expensive $800- 1,000. SUBARU PART NUMBER SOA321055 | TERM REP KIT J-47606.

 

However you can download the guide for the kit, which looks pretty useful in itself:

http://techinfo.subaru.com/proxy/607...4760668812.pdf

Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine.

"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"

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It's SEMA Week!

I've never been before, this should be very cool.

I can't wait to sit in the new Factory Five Gen 3 Coupe.

http://www.factoryfive.com/whats-new/new-gen-3-factory-five-coupe/

Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine.

"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"

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It's SEMA Week!

I've never been before, this should be very cool.

I can't wait to sit in the new Factory Five Gen 3 Coupe.

http://www.factoryfive.com/whats-new/new-gen-3-factory-five-coupe/

 

I'm sure all of us would love to go.

 

My tuner and installer will be there...very jelly :D

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

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It's SEMA Week!

I've never been before, this should be very cool.

I can't wait to sit in the new Factory Five Gen 3 Coupe.

http://www.factoryfive.com/whats-new/new-gen-3-factory-five-coupe/

 

Stop by the Peddler Suspension/TurboSmart booth and check out my friend's Focus RS.

2003 Baja 5MT

2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight

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Stop by the Peddler Suspension/TurboSmart booth and check out my friend's Focus RS.

Will Do !

Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine.

"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"

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Stop by the Peddler Suspension/TurboSmart booth and check out my friend's Focus RS.

 

Is that the one I saw at FW Motorsports? Snail tuned?

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

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Is that the one I saw at FW Motorsports? Snail tuned?

 

That's the one. Jalopnik also picked up a video from Blake's Garage, another friend of mine, which featured the same car. Travis and Brandon, the owner of the Focus, are down in Vegas now.

2003 Baja 5MT

2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight

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Stop by the Peddler Suspension/TurboSmart booth and check out my friend's Focus RS.

 

SEMA was as awesome as you've probably heard!

I ran into Travis at the Ford Racing booth. It was great chatting with him. And I tracked down his Snail Racing Ford Focus RS at the Peddlers Booth, pretty cool!

 

I'll make a longer post this weekend. Dang my legs are tired!

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Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine.

"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"

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SEMA:

Awesome displays and participation events put on by Ford Racing; Chevrolet Racing; Honda Racing Development; Toyota, MOPAR; Nissan. Also factory race cars from Kia, Factory Five, and Hyundai.

Notice a particular manufacturer that was not there in any way, shape, or form?

 

I found 3-4 cars I thought at first were BRzs but they invariably turned out to be FRS's.....

Maybe two STI's and one BRZ in the entire place.

 

Besides the depressing realization that I should be building Fords, Hondas, or Corvettes; it was car guy heaven!

 

I took lots of pics but most of them are up close of particular scoops, aero mods, suspension mods, and the like. Not too many full car pics, and I can't rival the ones you find on the web anyway.

 

Highlights:

The Honda body in white was very cool. You can buy a new Honda ready for race cage as a body only. Plus they have numerous racing bits you can order at the same time.

 

Being up close to the C7.R was awesome I got to poke all around and see how they set it up. I didn't realize before that has a very large cooling fan shooting straight out the back panel.

 

The new Ford turnkey race car, the Mustang GT4 was impressive.

 

Cosworth Supercharged WRX.

 

And of course the new Factory Five Gen 3 Daytona Coupe. Wow, I fit! It's 7 times stiffer than the Gen 2, and the yet to be released Gen 3 R (Race) version is 3x stiffer than the street version. A very tempting build. With a Ford Coyote crate engine and 2500 lbs dry, it would be a great ST 1-2, SPM-SPO car. I'm rethinking my plan to build a Subaru powered 818R and instead do a Gen 3 Coupe. The better aero and safety of the coupe plus the reliability of a dry sump crate engine are strong reasons. Plus the Coupe can race in SOVREN Exhibition Class even though it's a brand new car it comes titled as a 1965.

 

The best new product was this fire extinguisher. It's so light and powerful it's worth having as a backup in a race car, or in any daily driver. Basically it's a road flare that puts out fires!http://elementfire.com/

 

http://elementfire.com/assets/images/e2550-600x627-98-600x627-64.jpg

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Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine.

"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"

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More pics.

Does anyone know the name and where I can get the lexan window fastener in the image below? It's a nice quick clip in and out. I saw it on the Red Bull Honda.

Edit, I found it, a Dzus 1500 Series Sliding Latch and Bushing. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=4660

-OR-

DFCIS 8415 Slide latch. http://www.dfcis.com/sl-8400/sl-8415.html

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Edited by Sgt.Gator

Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine.

"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"

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