Colonel Red Racing 2005 STI Race Car

[Sgt.Gator]

After way too much research I've finally ordered an FMIC. I decided the AWIC is very interesting but for simplicity = reliability = finishing a race I had to go FMIC.

 

And I looked at every FMIC on the market There are only a very few that will work with my brake ducting. Or at least I think they will work with it.

 

The winner is the TurboXS.

 

I've also ordered a new Peterson Dry Sump Tank because I couldn't convince Boxkity to sell me back the one on the LGT. It's here and I intend to get it installed in the trunk this weekend.

 

 

The $$$ are flying away at a rapid rate.

[Sgt.Gator]

I came across this today. Seems like a good idea and it may work on a LGT. Anybody know of other PS cooling solutions?

 

http://cdn6.bigcommerce.com/s-uipszoy/products/147/images/856/WRX_STi_Power_Steering_Kit_1__67006.1438351966.1280.1280.jpg?c=2

 

http://www.chasebays.com/chase-bays-power-steering-kit-02-07-subaru-wrx-sti/

[Sgt.Gator]

I talked with a long time Subaru race builder today about cooling the 6 speed tranny. As ya'll may remember the LGT had a great cooling setup on the 5 speed, then when I switched to the 6 speed I had to re-invent the cooling mod. I never really liked the way I did it. The fittings hang low where they are vulnerable to being ripped out.

 

I always wondered if we could use the oil pump pipe on the driver side and tap into that. (The Spec B tranny doesn't have the pump, only STI).

It appears the answer is yes.

 

On the 6-speeds with the oil pump it's very easy. Just remove the pipe on the side of the transmission and replace with some AN adapter fittings and run some aircraft type lines out and back to the oil cooler. Or if you prefer, the JDM Spec C used a factory oil cooler inside the radiator (similar to an automatic). So there are all factory parts to do it that way.

It does not need an external pump, use the internal pump in the transmission.

The pump is a positive displacement pump so the length of the run (within reason) shouldn't matter.

Easy peasy!

[boxkita]

Thanks, Gator. I'll add that to the todo list. Anything else I need to fix?

[seanyb505]

Yeah the engine keeps blowing up

 

[fredrik94087]

^^^ FARK! I laughed out loud in my cube!

[Sgt.Gator]

Thanks, Gator. I'll add that to the todo list. Anything else I need to fix?

I'll leave it up to you to discover them.

 

Any progress? I'd really like to know if the timing belt came off.

[boxkita]

After that truck load of engines , im still trying to find the floor of my garage. I want to know why it blew too.

[Sgt.Gator]

For now I've decided to forego the Kaminari CF hood and do a scoop delete/ add extractor vents like I did on the LGT Wagon.

 

I found a pretty cool and relatively cheap solution for the front extractor scoop. Some of the Miata guys have been using it with success, an OEM Ford Racing GT500 extractor, part number AR3Z-16C630-AA. I bought one from a Ford dealer for $75 including shipping (with an eBay $10 off coupon). That's a great value for an OEM Ford Racing new part.

 

http://s7d4.scene7.com/is/image/Turn5/53695?$enlarged810x608$..http://s7d4.scene7.com/is/image/Turn5/53695_alt1?$mproductlarge$&wid=810&hei=608..http://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/general-miata-chat-9/26869-diy-miata-hood-vents-bb774810.jpg?dateline=1319321933..http://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/general-miata-chat-9/30124-diy-miata-hood-vents-bedf0648.jpg?dateline=1324351995..http://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/general-miata-chat-9/31310-diy-miata-hood-vents-fa2fda4d.jpg?dateline=1326164449

 

On the sides and slightly back I'm going to try to fit Daystar KJ71048BK Black Hood Vents. Unlike the usual vents they come with a ring that mounts on the inside so that the hood is sandwiched between the vent and the ring. In the world of hood vents they too are a reasonable price with good quality.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Daystar-KJ71048BK-Black-Hood-Vent/dp/B00JXU217S

 

 

They have an install video on You Tube:

 

Another option is the entire 3 PCs kit from Singular Motorsports:http://www.singularmotorsports.com/product/singular-motorsports-hood-louvers-subaru-sti/

 

http://www.singularmotorsports.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/STI-Jager-Hood-Louver-300x300.jpg

 

And finally I'll block off the TMIC scoop hole with a delete plate:

http://www.kstech.biz/wrx-sti-hood-scoop-delete-plate/

 

http://cdn3.bigcommerce.com/s-0k8ac/products/229/images/527/1002217vk0__58780.1438006895.386.513.jpg?c=2

Edited August 7, 2016 by Sgt.Gator

[Sgt.Gator]

I may have discovered why the engine blew, and for sure why the fuel system wasn't working as planned.

 

The previous owner had problems with fuel starvation below 1/4 tank because of the Subaru saddle bags stock tank. His builder's solution was to put a Holley fuel pump with lines to move the gas from the driver side saddle to the passenger side saddle where the OEM intank fuel pump is located. The driver side intake has a Holley hydramat which if you haven't read about it is pretty cool.

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/hydramat/

 

But it didn't work. The car still had fuel starvation problems. I couldn't understand why, it seemed like a great plan. But the car came with an old unused TurboXS swirl pot with dual external pump brackets, so I ordered up a new intank DW300 pump and a pair of Aeromotive external pumps.

 

Today I discovered the problem. The Holley transfer pump was installed 180 degrees off. So instead of moving the fuel from the driver side to the passenger side where the oem pump is located, it's doing the opposite!

 

The plan was to pull the fuel over and drop it into the little pickup box around the filter. However since the pump was installed 180 degrees off, it was actually pulling the fuel OUT of the stock pickup filter "box" and dumping it on the driver side saddle tank. And since the venturi jet was disabled the only way for the fuel to get back to the pickup side is by sloshing over the saddle.

 

It's actually amazing the car would run at all with 1/4 tank of fuel.

In the linked video I started with 100% full tank. I got 7-8 gals out of it before the Holley pump quit transferring any fuel. It literally ran the passenger side tank dry.

 

So now I loosened up the pump, spun it 180 degrees and reconnected the lines, it works great. While I was in there I switched out the OEM intank pump for the DW 300. I'm not going to use the TurboXS swirl pot for now.

 

Did this cause the melted down cyl #4? Probably, or at least possibly. There's no doubt it would cause intermittent super lean conditions.

 

Here's the video: https://goo.gl/photos/WybYm6Rz1QPFxMdL7

[ehsnils]

O.m.g.

http://www.bedug.com/pics/smiley/beat_brick.png

 

If you had that kind of mod, then I think it's time to check all other mods too to avoid nasty surprises.

[Sgt.Gator]

The STI is now sponsored by StkmltS !

 

Thanks for your Murray Clamp order,

Gator

[Sgt.Gator]

Most of the parts are in. Closed Deck, 2.7L, 1/2" Studs, Stroker Block.

 

Dry Sump Tank and Derale Cooler. I'm going to mount them in the trunk behind a new fully enclosed back seat firewall. The Derale 15876 cooler is huge and has a shrouded fan included. It will mount pointing down, sucking air out of the trunk and exhausting below the car. In one pic you see it just sitting on the floor. In the other pic it's on a cardboard template that will be an aluminum sheet with a hole in it for the fan, then a hole thru the spare tire wheel wheel below it. The sheet will seal off the wheel well, and I'll put a strong screen on the wheel well opening to block kicked up debris.

The dry sump tank will be approximately where you see it in the pic.

Cool air will come from either NACA ducts mounted in the rear side windows or in the quarter panels of the trunk itself.

If the STI has high oil temps it's not because of lack of cooling power!

 

I've also cut off the brake duct horns and welded them shut. I retapped all the mount holes around the welded area just in case I need them in the future. I blew smoke into the frame rails and sealed up all the little leaks so 100% of the fan driven air should be going to the brakes.

 

The ported heads are almost finished at BuiltEJ, Mike sent me these pics.

 

And finally, a dozen Blackstone Labs sample kits. This engine will be tested after every track weekend.

[boxkita]

And finally, a dozen Blackstone Labs sample kits. This engine will be tested after every track weekend.

 

Until the <insert expletive here> mechanic took over the oil changes, the street wagon had this every change. Well worth the peace of mind.

 

looking forward to see this new incarnation running...

[Sgt.Gator]

Do ya'll mind taking this drama to the Fender Flare thread?

[boxkita]

Do ya'll mind taking this drama to the Fender Flare thread?

 

I reported your post. Let a mod sort it out.

[thisisthenewsic]

Sorry. Didn't mean to clutter your thread. I was just trying to explain since I think there was some confusion on who had the molds now ect.

 

Ill just keep it to pms.

 

Once again sorry. Didn't mean to step on any toes

[fredrik94087]

I reported your post. Let a mod sort it out.

 

We don't need a mod for the 30 regulars on the forum

[Sgt.Gator]

Have you looked into the BtSsm app to view your gauges? If you have a tablet or phablet, you'd be able to view more gauges than on the COBB AP, and you'd be able to set up alarms as well (e.g. like pass a certain rpm/ or if the car knocks, or whatever....). You should look into it.

 

see: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/btssm-bluetooth-adapter-app-229709.html

 

Here is an example of what I was viewing a while ago.

 

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=230787&d=1464018780

 

XT I'm re-thinking using your suggestion. There's a local guy that makes a race logging android app/dashboard with all the track driving functions, but it won't work as a data logger with pre OBII CAN cars, basically only with post 2008.

 

So I'm thinking I could use his Tablet dash doing the predictive lap timing and other driver functions while running BTssm in the background to do the ECU data logging functions.

 

http://www.arcflashllc.com/products/digital-dash

 

Since his shop is only 10 minutes from my house customer support should be good.

[boxkita]

I see a hack coming. mid-race the display resets and the gauges randomly re arrange

 

I set my aim to show blinking red lights. Otherwise you're driving down the straight staring at the display

 

Still a spiffy setup

[Sgt.Gator]

I bought Making Sense of Squiggly Lines. Great book, I wish I'd bought this years ago. It really helps understanding how to use data logging for the driver and engineer to make the driver quicker. It's sort of a 101 book on the subject and is VERY easy to understand. https://www.amazon.com/Making-Sense-Squiggly-Lines-Christopher/dp/0983259313.

 

It's helped me crystallize the thought that the hardware/software/display/connections are not No1 . What is No1 is the analysis software. And that's where all these android systems fail. Even the really cool Racecapture Pro2 hardware has awful analysis software. https://www.autosportlabs.com/racecapturepro-2/ They do have a telemetry solution for an AIM MXL though!

 

After using the AIM Race Studio 3 analysis software on the LGT wagon I'm spoiled. And now that I've read Making Sense of Squiggly Lines I'll actually have an idea of how to make me drive faster!

 

From my research it looks like AIM and Motec have the two best analysis packages,and Motec is crazy expensive. I'm resigned to the situation of spending $$$ for an Aim MXL2 with a Racecapture telemetry, and all the sensors I need.

 

Boxkitty do you want to sell the raggedy old AIM Pista in the wagon?

[boxkita]

I bought Making Sense of Squiggly Lines. Great book, I wish I'd bought this years ago. It really helps understanding how to use data logging for the driver and engineer to make the driver quicker. It's sort of a 101 book on the subject and is VERY easy to understand. https://www.amazon.com/Making-Sense-Squiggly-Lines-Christopher/dp/0983259313.

 

It's helped me crystallize the thought that the hardware/software/display/connections are not No1 . What is No1 is the analysis software. And that's where all these android systems fail. Even the really cool Racecapture Pro2 hardware has awful analysis software. https://www.autosportlabs.com/racecapturepro-2/ They do have a telemetry solution for an AIM MXL though!

 

After using the AIM Race Studio 3 analysis software on the LGT wagon I'm spoiled. And now that I've read Making Sense of Squiggly Lines I'll actually have an idea of how to make me drive faster!

 

From my research it looks like AIM and Motec have the two best analysis packages,and Motec is crazy expensive. I'm resigned to the situation of spending $$$ for an Aim MXL2 with a Racecapture telemetry, and all the sensors I need.

 

Boxkitty do you want to sell the raggedy old AIM Pista in the wagon?

Ill sell the one i toom out of the. Miata. Same system

[Sgt.Gator]

Ill sell the one i toom out of the. Miata. Same system

PM me! This is a Pista with logging correct, not a MXL Strada dash only?

 

I've finally made progress on the engine build. The delay was partly caused by valve bucket lifter clearance issues. I bolted the heads to the block with ARP 1/2" studs which use a tremendous TQ setting. My heads came with the buckets installed which cost me extra $$. Well when I measured my valve clearances 12 of the 16 were out of spec, a few were WAY out of spec! ( Sound familiar Boxkitty?)

 

So I had to use feeler gauges to measure exactly how far out of spec, then take the cams off and measure the buckets. Well actually since they were new buckets they were all within .001mm of the number printed on the base. Then order a bunch of new buckets since I was only able to swap around a couple of the buckets.

The good news is the buckets I ordered using the FSM formula went in ands measured up perfect. Not just within spec, but literally all at .20mm Intake and .35mm Exhaust. Yeah!

 

Things started moving swiftly then. I got the valve covers/cam seals/AVCS valves/cam sensors/ and block M18 1.5 x 1/8" NPT adaptors installed.

 

I also rolled the car out in my driveway and attacked the engine bay with degreaser and a pressure washer. It was nasty with oil everywhere and bits of metal from the blown engine. Much nicer now.

 

Then I fabricated a mount for a Perrin FPR. After I was done fabricating and painting the mount I realized it was basically identical to the 2008+ STI and LGT Mount oem FPR mounts, I could have bought one for cheap and saved a bunch of time.

 

I also installed a vortex generator bar across the top of the rear window/roof. I used not only tape but a bunch of self tapping sheet metal screws to be sure to hold it down. I don't trust the tape at 150mph...

 

And I got the 2008 OEM STI rear diffuser. It mounts using a Cusco brace. I can't remember if I already mentioned I did the evap canister delete I linked earlier. No gas smells in the garage which surprises me.

 

I cut the coolant hose nipples off the throttle body. And tapped and plugged the extra intake manifold ports I don't need since I deleted the evap and pcv stuff. I tapped one of the former evap ports to work as a 1/8" NPT sensor port for a IAT sensor for speed density tuning but others have told me the sensor will get heat soaked there and I should locate it in the intercooler piping. So the intake has a plug in it for now.

 

Lesson: I won't bother having a machine shop try to fit the lifters ever again. If I'm rebuilding the heads I'll have the machine shop deck them, do the valve seats and fit the valves. Then when I get them back I'll bolt them to the block, then put 16 buckets in ( old or new) and do the measurements to figure out what size buckets I need.

 

BTW, I measured all my old buckets that came out of the blown engine. I don't know if they are originals or replacements, but almost all were worn about .03mm. So a 500 bucket would actually be a 497.

 

One other thing, the Chase Bays Power Steering Cooler arrived, but when I opened the box it was the standard system, minus the cooler. Hopefully they'll get the missing parts out to me soon, I'm sure it will be a lot easier to do the power steering hose swap/cooler install with the engine out of the car.

[Sgt.Gator]

Now I'm seeing the end of the tunnel on the engine build! Still have the Dry Sump, FMIC, Hood to go though.

[boxkita]

radium? Nice!