Rattsl

Always been curious on the carbon driveshafts. It's on my list of things.

Removed side skirt extension, added JDM sport bumper, added hood vents, jdm aero splash guards, 1 of 1 Freedom Mount carbon trunk garnish, and Nameless exhaust.

Removed side skirt extension, added JDM sport bumper, added hood vents, jdm aero splash guards, 1 of 1 Freedom Mount carbon trunk garnish, and Nameless exhaust.

Oh boy, has it been this long since my last update?? Well.....a lot has changed....

Hot damn congrats.

I gathered more information. It seems that if you do have to buy new INNER rods, buy OEM.

Recently, I installed the 2015+ STI power steering rack, and aside from having to repin it (oops) the issue I ran into was wider track. If you follow this thread, you'll see Underdogg says to cut the INNER tie rods, leaving 3-4 threads more than the Legacy inner rods. Well...sorta makes sense, sorta doesn't, because the OUTER tie rods have about 4" of available thread space, whereas the INNER tie rods have about 1-2" of thread space. So really, you'll run out of INNER tie rod by the time you thread in the OUTER tie rod all the way in. Sooo..... (Dealing with over the shelf inner and outer tie rods) Solution. Grab a die (or buy one) and cut in new threads onto the INNER tie rod. M14x1.5 is the size you'll need, but I suggest bringing a tie rod with you and checking with each die to make sure you have the right thread. I made mine work with a 1/2 20nf die. I added between 1/4" of threads to the driver side and about 1/2" of threads to the passenger side. Now, the oem jam nut is massive, so I suggest ordering the McMaster Carr jam nut that is provided in the link above that Underdogg posted. This nut is much more thinner than the oem jam nut and will give you an additional 3-4 threads of adjustments. Now...last thing to note. If all else fails, there is still available space on the OUTER tie rod that you can cut off without affecting the adjustment cutout area. It's about 1/2 of available space (depending on the tie rod, seeing as the Whiteline bump steer outer tie rod is longer) and cut that off. That said...these are my experiences. Any damages done to your vehicle, I am not liable to. I took the risks of modifying suspension parts and I'm solely responsible for my own actions. I'll get an alignment again tomorrow and see if I need more threads to achieve 0 toe, but as a look from above the fender, I seem pretty good with the current results.

Thank you.

That's not some. That's a lot. I don't even run that much camber.

Sold them to a local. Thanks dude!

Your photography.

If I ever got new wheels, it would be similar to those.

We all know OBP is best color.

You don't even need a spacer for that....

They're custom one offs.

20's on a 6th gen is in my opinion, a good looking wheel. Considering the new STI will have 19"s, why shouldn't the Legacy be ok with 20" wheels. The car is astronomically bigger than previous gens, and even 19"s look decent on a 4th gen, which is a very small car in proportion to the 4th gen.

Thank you very much Boxkita and Gator. That really helps my choice of extractors and location. I'll have to figure out something underneath too to draw air in and out.

I actually have a question that has to do with the wagon but also insight for me. How do you figure out the best position for heat extractors on the hood? I know the wagon has one just before the scoop, but say if you ran a tmic, isn't that hot air leaving the vent just going to mix with ambient air and essentially be just marginally warmer than normal? The second part of the question is, would it be more effecient to put the extractors further back towards the windshield near stock turbo location and near the brake fluid reservoir as they sit so far back, all the hottest air leaves. Am I crazy in thinking of that theory? I'm planning to do two vents from Trackspec and mount them parallel to stock turbo location.

I love it!

This man pays a lot of attention to details.