Moderators BarManBean Posted January 2, 2016 Moderators Share Posted January 2, 2016 So I first starting thinking / talking about this a while back, and just put it off for a while. Well now my radiator has crapped the bed and it's likely to happen soon. Plans so far: Timing belt, all idlers, water pump, crank/cam seal replacementTiC FU bolts will get reinstalledKoyo RadiatorFront banjo bolt removalOil cooler gasketPassenger VCGMotor mounts (maybe)Up pipe bracket replacement / repair--pretty sure I cross threaded it into the block last time and one of the heat shield bolts broke of in it as wellPassenger cam sensor (drivers side as well?)New OCVsHeat blanket for up pipe (maybe) Other things that I could do "while I'm there" or while there is extra room: replacement hoses as needed (heater hoses, breathers) [freerangeracig kit?]Drive belts1/2 moon sealsA bit of a wire "tuck" with the new fuel line setupInstall oil pressure setup in the main galley plugDriver's side VCG as preventative maintenance "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted January 2, 2016 Author Moderators Share Posted January 2, 2016 Current Project Plan: Steps that need to occur in order: Remove coilpacks Perform compression check (possibly...) Remove spark plugs Remove valve covers Check valve clearances with stock timing and record (target values here, http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5314112&postcount=62) Loosely reinstall VCs Set engine to timing marks Install C23 cam lock tool Mark timing belt with paint pen, check against new belt to confirm Remove timing belt Break loose cam sprockets Recheck valve clearances with no timing and record Remove remaining idlers / gears Remove all cam sprockets Remove rear timing covers Pull banjo bolt and screen, reinstall Remove cams, marking EVERYTHING with location and orientation MIC offending buckets as needed, do math, order correct buckets, reinstall Reinstall cams, torque to spec, remeasure valve clearances Replace cam / crank seals Clean AVCS gears (maybe) Reinstall all 4 sprockets with TiC FU bolts Replace timing components--idlers, gears, belt, WP Recheck valve clearances with new timing installed and record Replace half moon seals Replace valve covers with new gaskets and spark plug gaskets Reinstall new spark plugs Reinstall coil packs Reinstall turbo and up pipe ***ALL OTHER WORK NEEDS TO BE COMPLETED AT THIS TIME Move engine to table (off stand) Remove fly wheel Inspect and address rear seals as needed Reinstall flywheel and clutch Clean&chase engine-to-trans studs Antiseize dowel pins Reinstall motor into car Steps that can occur at any time: Replace OCVs, left / right Rotate IP&T oil line for better fitment, new crush washers needed Replace oil cooler gasket Clean and paint VCs Replace coolant crossover pipe Replace passenger cam sensor (or reseal if possible?) Clean timing belt covers, leave off until motor is running and no leaks are evident Repair up pipe bracket (retap if needed) Replace all / most hoses as needed Install oil pressure setup in main galley Install motor mounts Parts to order: Coolant crossover pipe (21328AA011, $23) copper crush gaskets for IP&T banjo x2 (p/n should be 803912040, $1 each) copper crush gaskets for passenger banjo bolt x2 (p/n should be 803912040, $1 each) New rear main seal (806786040, $8) New cam sensor? (22056AA140, $79) Header-to-motor gaskets x2 (14038AA000, $12 each) Half moon seals x4 (11051AA070, $5 each) Turbo oil return hose (807515712, $8) PCV (11815AB790, $28) Power steering gasket (34621AC020) Header stud (800910550, $1.30) Dipstick O-ring (806908080, $1.28) Front Timing belt cover seals (13581AA050, 13594AA000; $17, $11) Power steering suction hose (34611AG23A, $38.21) Oil filler neck O-ring (806922040, $2.28) Oil cap O-ring (803942010, $3.08) Valve Cover Gasket, Left (13272AA140, $8.94) Valve Cover Gasket, Right (13270AA190, $8.94) Spark plug gaskets x4 (13293AA051, $6.87) Thermostat/gasket assy (21210AA030, $20.67) New TOB (30502AA130 / 30502AA080, ~$100) Samco radiator hoses (TCS272C, $103.86 shipped from OAKOS) Permatex ultrablack ACT Monoloc? New clutch? STi Flywheel (12310AA410) No longer going to order: IP&T AVCS replacement line "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted January 2, 2016 Author Moderators Share Posted January 2, 2016 So anything that I seem to be missing that folks would due with easy access to everything while the motor is on a stand? I'm thinking about working with JmP to get a bit of a turbo upgrade, but likely staying with something in the 16g-sized-and-similar, just looking for better spool and reliability. Other than that I really don't think there's anything else I can add that would truly increase performance without getting into true built motor territory... "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 Motor mounts cause really why not? I bet you will notice a difference even if you go with new OEM ones. I love my Group N motor mounts, but they can be noisy. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KRM Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 Pilot and clutch bearing. And why not do the rear main seal unless it's been very recently installed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gkinslow Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 subscribed for decision on turbo upgrade as i am contemplating the same. Good luck with the "extravaganza" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LatentWagen Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 In for the extravaganza... LW's spec. B / YT / IG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snm95ls Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 Anything else? 5MT swap perhaps? In for the gangbang... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 How's your coolant crossover tube to the oil cooler ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris GTO TT Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 This should be fun.... 2003 Baja 5MT 2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterJMC Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 ... for the readers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LatentWagen Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 ... but not the servers. 50 pages, here we come! LW's spec. B / YT / IG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike07LGT Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 ... but not the servers. 50 pages, here we come! For that small of a list? I sure hope not 03 WRB WRX (RIP) 04 JBP STI (sold) 07 DGM Legacy GT (RIP) 12 OBP STI (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted January 5, 2016 Author Moderators Share Posted January 5, 2016 I don't think I'm dramatic enough for 50 pages, lol. Still cleaning up the garage and finishing up some work in our basement apartment before we have a new renter. I'm determine to start this up with things organized, otherwise I fear the whole thing will turn into a total mess. So clearing out some dedicated space for parts, tools, etc. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 They say the devil is in the details, but good preparation is the best predictor of success in my opinion. It's good to have a staging area for dirty parts and then a separate space for clean parts. Simple Green commercial strength (purple in color) is good for general cleaning and won't attack aluminum unlike regular Simple Green. Brake cleaner (non-chlorinated) is also good for cleaning most metal parts, but for anything in the lubrication system I would stick to an engine degreaser like Joe Gibbs. Brake cleaner always leaves residue that you don't want in your oil system. Finally get a big jug of 90%+ isopropyl alcohol and some good lint-free wipes (clean-room grade). A selection of wire and acid brushes, along with a variety of steel wools and scotchbrite pads will come in handy. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMileHighLGT Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 Fuel lines underneath the intake manifold. replace them now. new fuel injection clamps over the shitty worm gear type Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted January 5, 2016 Author Moderators Share Posted January 5, 2016 They say the devil is in the details, but good preparation is the best predictor of success in my opinion. It's good to have a staging area for dirty parts and then a separate space for clean parts. Simple Green commercial strength (purple in color) is good for general cleaning and won't attack aluminum unlike regular Simple Green. Brake cleaner (non-chlorinated) is also good for cleaning most metal parts, but for anything in the lubrication system I would stick to an engine degreaser like Joe Gibbs. Brake cleaner always leaves residue that you don't want in your oil system. Finally get a big jug of 90%+ isopropyl alcohol and some good lint-free wipes (clean-room grade). A selection of wire and acid brushes, along with a variety of steel wools and scotchbrite pads will come in handy. Thank you x100, Rick. I'll look into all of that, would not have known. Feel free to PM me your cell number for free tech support Fuel lines underneath the intake manifold. replace them now. new fuel injection clamps over the shitty worm gear type I converted to topfeed a while back with the Injector Dynamics kit, so my fuel lines are all AN fittings now. No more winter fuel smell! "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted January 7, 2016 Author Moderators Share Posted January 7, 2016 Some progress. Battery, intake, TMIC, radiator, alternator all removed. AC compressor loose. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnusonsubie Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 I don't think I'm dramatic enough for 50 pages, lol. I'd put money on this being done before Boxkita has heads back on his engine 2005 Vader Wagon Material Tests on Ringland Failure Piston I should have held off and purchased a wagon instead of the spec.B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted January 10, 2016 Author Moderators Share Posted January 10, 2016 Downpipe off. Most transmissions bolts / nuts off. Motor mounts loose. Will pull turbo out next, then starter. Remaining trans bolts, disconnect fuel line, and I think that's it. Need to track down and engine crane! "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted January 10, 2016 Author Moderators Share Posted January 10, 2016 Paid for a set of KillerB headers. Gonna pick up a freerangeracing hose kit, some samco radiator hoses...what else? Maybe a JmP turbo... "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 You have a 16g right? What are you looking for in a JMP turbo? 18g size? You are still on the stock block right? Have you used virtual dyno with your pulls before? Curious what your results look like. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted January 11, 2016 Author Moderators Share Posted January 11, 2016 Yes, 16g. Not sure what i would do with JmP. And yes, stock block. No virtual dyno, maybe I should try that out. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rester5350 Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 Want to buy a hta76 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 I'd put money on this being done before Boxkita has heads back on his engine someone's looking for a seat next to MrTris on the sidelines... Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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