jojorios Posted December 7, 2015 Share Posted December 7, 2015 I already have an Invidia catted DP that had creep issues. Was hoping that this one would possibly combat it with the design, but if it doesn't, not sure if I really have any reason to keep this over Invidia. It could help the clutch fund. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tuning Alliance Posted December 7, 2015 Share Posted December 7, 2015 If your over boosting in cold weather that is typically a tuning issue as well. As the ecu does compensate waste gate solenoid duty based on intake air temp. If your running 0 wgdc and getting lots of boost you have a mechanical issue. Contact us for all your tuning and performance parts needs! Etuning the legacy community since 2008! Follow us on FACEBOOK | INSTAGRAM [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted December 7, 2015 Share Posted December 7, 2015 And of course, in normal fashion, it also looks like something happened to it sometime between leaving Nameless to Swain to me. Small little dent by the tube coming from the turbo to the exhaust. I'm hoping that this is something that won't affect performance or the install. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Take it to a respected and trusted exhaust shop in your area. They have a machine that makes slip joints by spreading the tube and they can just put it in there and straighten the bend. Obviously you don't want them to make it a larger diameter, just straighten the dent by making the pipe round again. I'd be surprised if they even charge you for it. It will take them all of about 2 minutes. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted December 8, 2015 Share Posted December 8, 2015 Take it to a respected and trusted exhaust shop in your area. They have a machine that makes slip joints by spreading the tube and they can just put it in there and straighten the bend. Obviously you don't want them to make it a larger diameter, just straighten the dent by making the pipe round again. I'd be surprised if they even charge you for it. It will take them all of about 2 minutes. Or just get a body hammer and fix it...whats gonna happen if gomer at the exhaust shop opens it up a few mm too big, I am assuming that pipe will no longer fit into the turbo. Somethings are just better done yourself, take your time and it will be just fine. It's only a piece of metal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fahr_side Posted December 8, 2015 Share Posted December 8, 2015 You'd be amazed at the whistling noise a dent like that can make in a fast-moving exhaust stream. Think Stuka. It really wants to be round to avoid that. Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jojorios Posted December 8, 2015 Share Posted December 8, 2015 Great......just one more setback/extra step to add to the list. Thanks for the info! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GotthatGT Posted December 8, 2015 Share Posted December 8, 2015 Jackpot! Ace hardware had the turbo flange stud for $2.60. I had to grind the top nut off because I rounded it out too much. Oh well. On another note this exhaust is freaking beautiful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starks Posted December 8, 2015 Share Posted December 8, 2015 Great......just one more setback/extra step to add to the list. Thanks for the info! Yeah, that's why GT said a reputable one you trust because if you get Jim Bob doing it, he'll definitely widen it.  Me personally, I'd hammer the dent out to be safe.  Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haruichi808 Posted December 12, 2015 Share Posted December 12, 2015 Has no one else installed these on their car yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GotthatGT Posted December 12, 2015 Share Posted December 12, 2015 I find the exhaust to be a lot quieter than i had imagined. That is what I needed, family and music. I love the deep tones at low RPM, almost enough to set car alarms off. Under acceleration it quietens up because of the turbo i suspect. #becausefamilycar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dreizehn Posted December 12, 2015 Share Posted December 12, 2015 Started installing mine but haven't finished. Hope to have the full Nameless TBE done tomorrow, protune Thursday. Â Â Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ellesedil Posted December 12, 2015 Share Posted December 12, 2015 Nameless is now advertising the TBE for our cars. You can select several different options when pricing them out. Things can get pretty expensive right quick, though. http://shop.namelessperformance.com/turboback-exhaust-2010-2014-legacy-gt/ They've also listed their BPV for our cars as well: http://shop.namelessperformance.com/wave-spring-bypass-valve-2010-14-legacy-gt/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eckseleven Posted December 13, 2015 Author Share Posted December 13, 2015 Show your appreciation by doing what I suggest and not second-guessing me. A pump test is not the same as actually testing in boost with the BCS connected. You have backpressure in the exhaust to overcome and we aren't sure if your BCS lines are good etc. Take the factory T-hose off, with the pill still in there, and connect a new short length of vacuum hose directly from compressor to actuator. If you see more than about 11psi then you have a problem with either the wastegate flapper still hitting something, the actuator not holding pressure, the BCS being faulty, a line leaking... lots of possibilities. If you do hold a steady 11psi or so we have eliminated the WG flapper, the actuator, the downpipe design, the exhaust system etc. Just get back under the car and do it. It takes less time to actually do this than thinking up arguments and excuses not to. Did as suggested. Bypassed BCS with no pill. Hit 17.8 psi in a 3rd gear pull. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkenefake Posted December 13, 2015 Share Posted December 13, 2015 Nameless is now advertising the TBE for our cars. You can select several different options when pricing them out. Things can get pretty expensive right quick, though. http://shop.namelessperformance.com/turboback-exhaust-2010-2014-legacy-gt/ They've also listed their BPV for our cars as well: http://shop.namelessperformance.com/wave-spring-bypass-valve-2010-14-legacy-gt/ Interesting that the downpipe shown is not DWG design. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted December 13, 2015 Share Posted December 13, 2015 Interesting that the downpipe shown is not DWG design. It appears that the pic is of the 2015+ WRX unit maybe. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fahr_side Posted December 14, 2015 Share Posted December 14, 2015 Did as suggested. Bypassed BCS with no pill. Hit 17.8 psi in a 3rd gear pull. Ah ha. With the stock actuator you should only be seeing 11~12psi. Mechanical problem. It appears that the pic is of the 2015+ WRX unit maybe.  That's the WRX / FXT flange for sure.  Sent from a device using some software. Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eckseleven Posted December 14, 2015 Author Share Posted December 14, 2015 Ah ha. With the stock actuator you should only be seeing 11~12psi. Mechanical problem. Â What do you think it could be? The rod moves all the way when I pressurize the actuator by hand. I would think that rules out the flapper being stuck, correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ellesedil Posted December 14, 2015 Share Posted December 14, 2015 Interesting that the downpipe shown is not DWG design. It appears that the pic is of the 2015+ WRX unit maybe. That's the WRX / FXT flange for sure. Clicking on the pictures brings up a modal of the images with the following text above the picture itself: "Different J-Pipe pictured. Actual product will be the divorced pipe shown on the Downpipe Product page." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fahr_side Posted December 14, 2015 Share Posted December 14, 2015 What do you think it could be? The rod moves all the way when I pressurize the actuator by hand. I would think that rules out the flapper being stuck, correct? Yes, you would think that the flapper should not be the problem. If anything, the stock actuators may be weaker than spec, but I've never seen one that was stiffer. It's possible things are expanding and still touching when they are hot, given that all this hardware is exposed to exhaust gas at 800*C or so. So, it could be the flapper touching that dump tube when everything is at operating temperature. Pretty hard to prove that either way I'm afraid. You could try unhooking the actuator from the wastegate flap and testing again, letting the exhaust gas just push the flapper open and seeing what peak boost pressure goes to. That would eliminate the actuator as the source of the problem. If you get a significantly lower boost peak, I'd suspect the actuator does not open as early as you think it does and try to find a replacement to test with. If nothing changes, I'd pull the downpipe again and check for marks on the tube where it was touching before. If that looked clean I'd pull the turbo and port the wastegate. Actually I'd probably go straight to that step to be sure, but I do this on all the hybrid VF-54s we build and have gotten pretty quick at it. If you don't want to get in there and get that done, maybe reinstalling the stock midpipe and cans will do the trick. Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jojorios Posted December 14, 2015 Share Posted December 14, 2015 So is this indeed pointing more towards creep? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eckseleven Posted December 14, 2015 Author Share Posted December 14, 2015 I'd be surprised if the flapper was still touching that tube. With the switch from bolts to studs like everyone else has used and considering the good wack with a hammer I gave that tube, it just doesn't seem possible to me. There would have to be a serious manufacturing defect to cause things to be off still. Perhaps there could be an actuator issue but since I've never had a problem in 38k miles and my tuner has never pointed out any odd behaviors in the past it just doesn't seem possible to me. fahr_side, I know you've mentioned this in the past, what do people typically gain with a CBE? I'm curious what I'd loose if I were to go back to that. Maybe I'd loose some peak HP but gain TQ when compared to stock DP plus 3" CBE? I need to consider my options. It sounds like you'd just port the WG but unfortunately I don't have the resources in my area to do that. Switching exhaust components is the only thing I'm willing to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eckseleven Posted December 14, 2015 Author Share Posted December 14, 2015 So is this indeed pointing more towards creep? That's what I'm thinking and what was suggested by my reputable tuner after checking the car top to bottom. The problem only gets serious around 30F though so some people may never see this. But since we can have stretches of -10F for weeks here, I just don't think it could be a problem I'd feel comfortable living with. The one time I hit boost cut in 3rd, I had started at 3000 RPM and was at 21 psi before 4000 RPM. That's nuts. I'd have to drive around never exceeding half throttle when it gets cold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dreizehn Posted December 14, 2015 Share Posted December 14, 2015 Mine (TBE) is installed and I'm running on the Cobb stage 2 tune, pro-tune Thursday. Â I haven't seen any issues similar to yours although I haven't driven too spirited with it yet due to tuning. Â Â Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apexofthevortex Posted December 14, 2015 Share Posted December 14, 2015 That's what I'm thinking and what was suggested by my reputable tuner after checking the car top to bottom. The problem only gets serious around 30F though so some people may never see this. But since we can have stretches of -10F for weeks here, I just don't think it could be a problem I'd feel comfortable living with. The one time I hit boost cut in 3rd, I had started at 3000 RPM and was at 21 psi before 4000 RPM. That's nuts. I'd have to drive around never exceeding half throttle when it gets cold. Perhaps a longshot, but has your turbo ever been rebuilt maybe before you bought the car or did you buy it new? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tuning Alliance Posted December 14, 2015 Share Posted December 14, 2015 Log it and post the actual boost curve. Contact us for all your tuning and performance parts needs! Etuning the legacy community since 2008! Follow us on FACEBOOK | INSTAGRAM [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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