jertfunk Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 Has anyone else had this problem while installing the dp? Haven't installed mine yet. Hope we all don't have the same issue Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apexofthevortex Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 Getting mine retuned for 3-port, TMIC, and charge pipe tomorrow, no problems yet other than boost creep tripping the MAP sensor. We'll see how it goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 ^^^ And you're running the stock turbo? GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eckseleven Posted November 16, 2015 Author Share Posted November 16, 2015 Anyone have a straight-on picture of the exhaust housing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 Anyone have a straight-on picture of the exhaust housing? Of the downpipe flange or the turbo? GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eckseleven Posted November 16, 2015 Author Share Posted November 16, 2015 Of the downpipe flange or the turbo? Turbo. Sorry, should have been more specific. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 Found these on Google Images. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apexofthevortex Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 ^^^ And you're running the stock turbo? Yeah, my tuner says that he can control boost better with it and keep it from boost creeping. I figure it's not too expensive so its worth a shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eckseleven Posted November 17, 2015 Author Share Posted November 17, 2015 A couple images showing where we suspect the contact point is. First is a random google image. The other is the actual DP. And the actual exhaust housing. Still working out what the exact course of action will be. A coworker is going to lend me his inspection camera so I'll try to look in there at some point this week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 Are you using the Totally Stainless hardware or the OEM turbo studs? GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eckseleven Posted November 17, 2015 Author Share Posted November 17, 2015 Totally Stainless hardware. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fahr_side Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 Out of curiosity, what is the diameter (inside / outside) of the turbine dump pipe? Sent from a device using some software. Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Because Racecar Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 Interesting. Also interesting that the first one is up in the classifieds already. Someone got spooked? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LagIsForePlay Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 (edited) Interesting. Also interesting that the first one is up in the classifieds already. Someone got spooked? Real reason I don't want two money pits Edit: Didn't want my joke to be taken seriously Edited November 17, 2015 by LagIsForePlay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Because Racecar Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 Yeap, my fears were validated when I mated up the downpipe to the turbo, it won't fit (Real reason I don't want two money pits) Wait, what am I lookin' at?? I feel ya. I've got a list of other parts going on, and a tune is not in my future until post-winter, so the DP is staying in the box until warmer weather (and better tires). Will be interesting to see if this is a design flaw that needs addressed by Nameless. Is this the third one that's been installed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LagIsForePlay Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 Wait, what am I lookin' at?? I feel ya. I've got a list of other parts going on, and a tune is not in my future until post-winter, so the DP is staying in the box until warmer weather (and better tires). Will be interesting to see if this is a design flaw that needs addressed by Nameless. Is this the third one that's been installed? That was my other car's turbo (I was trying to make a funny) To be clear: I did not install it just took it out of the box to admire craftsmanship Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 (edited) Are you using the Totally Stainless hardware or the OEM turbo studs? Totally Stainless hardware. I think you are the first to try this DP with the Totally Stainless hardware, and I believe this may be the issue. Okay, here is my idea. It seems like the tolerance on the Nameless DP is very finicky because the design of the turbine dump pipe is so different from all other downpipes and the clearance to the wastegate flapper is very small. Since the Totally Stainless hardware is a bolt, and not a stud, they dont have the locating shoulder (or dowel area) like a standard stud does to mechanically locate the DP flange on the turbo housing. The diameter of the threads is slightly smaller than the stud "dowel". This may allow the DP to move back and forth a little and even though your shop tried to move it toward the front of the car, it is possible that it shifted while the bolts were being tightened down. Just a few thousandths of an inch, coupled with a few hundred degrees of material expansion, and that could be the difference between a stuck flapper and a free flapper. This would never be an issue with a bellmouth style downpipe. Therefore, I would suggest trying the OEM studs and nuts to see if that corrects the problem. If you choose to correct this with a slight modification of the turbine dump tube, I would recommend flattening the side closest to the flapper ever so slightly versus grinding the pipe to create clearance. Making the tubing wall thinner on one side in a high heat area like immediately post turbo may cause the material to crack or break from differentials in expansion and contraction, and the ladt thing you want is chunks breaking off in the vicinity of the turbine. Edited November 17, 2015 by GTEASER GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apexofthevortex Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 I reused my OEM studs, and haven't noticed that issue. Definitely worth a try Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eckseleven Posted November 17, 2015 Author Share Posted November 17, 2015 I too wondered if the switch to bolts is causing a problem but I don't see how that is possible. The dowel area is enlarged and as far as I can tell matches the diameter of the stud where the threads are. Nameless is telling me to just drill out the holes and try again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eckseleven Posted November 17, 2015 Author Share Posted November 17, 2015 Out of curiosity, what is the diameter (inside / outside) of the turbine dump pipe? Can anyone get an answer to this? I'm told that the dump pipe diameter matches the wheel opening and is supposed to be centered exactly over the wheel. But it seems that if it is the inside diameter that matches the wheel, then it wouldn't be possible to center the pipe over the wheel no matter what since you'll hit that far wall. I guess it doesn't matter at this point, just curious. What I find strange is that the gap between the wheel opening and flapper looks like a good 1/4 of an inch. Right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apexofthevortex Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 Can anyone get an answer to this? I'm told that the dump pipe diameter matches the wheel opening and is supposed to be centered exactly over the wheel. But it seems that if it is the inside diameter that matches the wheel, then it wouldn't be possible to center the pipe over the wheel no matter what since you'll hit that far wall. I guess it doesn't matter at this point, just curious. What I find strange is that the gap between the wheel opening and flapper looks like a good 1/4 of an inch. Right? That's what I would think. I haven't seen the stainless hardware at all but like Teaser said a combination of the hardware and the pipe expanding could potentially bridge that gap. I would also take into consideration that since these are handmade it's very possible that there could be slight imperfections across the board the dump pipe itself may slightly offset in a perfect way that could cause issues but cant be seen with a naked eye. Just an idea but maybe you could somehow use something to mark where the dump tube is touching, like put some material or fluid that would be safe inside the turbo on the ring of the dump tube, mock it up, and see where it leaves the ring. That probably wont do anything if it only gets blocked under load but if its always hitting that might tell you something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripstik Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 I too wondered if the switch to bolts is causing a problem but I don't see how that is possible. The dowel area is enlarged and as far as I can tell matches the diameter of the stud where the threads are. [ATTACH]219876[/ATTACH] Nameless is telling me to just drill out the holes and try again. It may look like it matches but in these cases a few thousands will make all the difference if you put calipers to it i bet the threads are at least .010" narrower not to mention the tolerance that is applied to bolts is always in the negative so for a 1/2" bolt it has to be less than 1/2" at the thread and depending on the bolt quality and size can be as much as .020 lower than that, then there is the tolerance on the holes them selves probably around 5 thou for a nice company like nameless, then the hole positions tolerance. if all of those tolerances are working against you cleaning up the connection between the hole and bolt can be the deciding factor. you can effectively remove 2 sets of tolerances by using a nice tight clearance shoulder bolt or stud. Get some measurements on the holes in the DP when you can and compare them to bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 ^^^ The mechanical engineer has arrived!!!! Good info ripstik! GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripstik Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 ^^^ The mechanical engineer has arrived!!!! Good info ripstik! can you tell i play with tiny tolerances for a living hahahaha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apexofthevortex Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 can you tell i play with tiny tolerances for a living hahahaha Don't they say its not the size of the tolerance that matters, its how you use it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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