eckseleven Posted November 21, 2015 Author Share Posted November 21, 2015 Decided to modify the old bracket. For those that do this, you'll need to grind it in two places and make the top holes bigger. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/20/2dfe07ec8b1977d1c2f8dfc2032ae61b.jpg Also wrapped some paper around the pipe and used it to get an idea of what things looked like in there. As you can see it is a fair amount bigger than the wheel which explains why it could hit the flapper in the first place. One of the Nameless guys told me it was the exact same size which I found surprising since flapper is about a quarter inch a way. Guessing he misspoke. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/20/b3a6b4197791c6e5034a98c9d7f577b0.jpg Didn't get to put it all back together. Hopefully tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fahr_side Posted November 21, 2015 Share Posted November 21, 2015 Looks like they sized the tube for an upgrade to a larger turbine like a TD05H. Sent from a device using some software. Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dreizehn Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 Any luck with the reassembly? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eckseleven Posted November 23, 2015 Author Share Posted November 23, 2015 I got it all back together with studs. I ended up tapping the pipe ever so slightly with a hammer where that scratch is as well. Currently discussing with tuner the safest way to determine everything is operational before heading back out for final tuning. I imagine everything will be fine now. I thought about just putting it back together with the studs and not using the hammer, but I'm really tired of messing with this thing. The wife was running out of paitence and I'm beyond frustrated by this experience so I didn't want to take any chances. So, sorry, we'll never know for sure if it was the usage of the SS bolts or if there was a manufacturing issue that caused my troubles. But to be safe, I recommend everyone use the OEM studs and not the bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starks Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 Yeah I feel you with the install. After the third or fourth time getting under the car for the same issue, most anyone would be saying I'm about done with this. Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laopadak Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 Yeah I feel you with the install. After the third or fourth time getting under the car for the same issue, most anyone would be saying I'm about done with this. Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk You had the same issue as well? Anyone else? Seems very discouraging for us that have yet installed. I for one couldn't deal with multiple removal / reinstallations. Seems some works, others don't. How do we as a group move forward with Nameless on this? Not crying wolf here but if it's an issue that needs to be addressed, it needs to be addressed with the supplier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ellesedil Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 I don't think Starks is experiencing this problem himself, but only sympathizing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 You had the same issue as well? Anyone else? Seems very discouraging for us that have yet installed. I for one couldn't deal with multiple removal / reinstallations. Seems some works, others don't. How do we as a group move forward with Nameless on this? Not crying wolf here but if it's an issue that needs to be addressed, it needs to be addressed with the supplier. Like Ellesedil mentioned, Starks is just commiserating. As far as I know, he doesn't have a Nameless DP yet. I think we have 2 confirmed installs at this time, eckseleven and ApexoftheVortex, one is touching the flapper, the other is not. At this point, we don't have a confirmed issue across multiple parts, just one instance of a very very very minor (like a few 1/1000ths) clearance issue. None of the others who previously installed the DP pre-group buy, Swannee225, Fischbach or the other guy (can't remember his name) have had a problem. A very small error in the manufacturing process, something as as simple as a tube shifting in the jig due to welding heat or a clamp not being tight enough, is likely to blame for this issue on this one instance. Until 25% or more of these hand made items have an issue, I don't believe this situation is indicative of a "bad design" or "shoddy work". At least we know that when we install these we should be opening the flapper after install to make sure it opens fully before we start the car. And then warm it up fully and try opening the flapper again. That way we can confirm the presence of an issue if there is one before we're sitting on the dyno. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cww516 Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 In addition to fab tolerances (usually +/- .10" for weldments where I work, although a jig should be able to do a lot better) don't forget about stock material tolerance. I did a quick and dirty tolerance stack-up check, and you're looking at a worst-case scenario of about .030" (including wall thickness, diameter, and ovality tolerances, and assuming the outer edge of the tube furthest from the wastegate flapper is dead-nuts). Add on another 32nd for fab tolerance (which is unreasonably tight, far as I'm aware), and another 16th or so for flapper positioning (think I've seen a few posts where those things will wander off and not completely cover the wastegate hole)- it adds up quick. I'm leaning towards eckseleven just getting screwed by tolerance stack-up, which is unfortunate, but not at all impossible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laopadak Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 Okay- I can see how Starks comment is just being sympathetic, just misread it. Will continue to monitor and hope eckseleven is the exception. Planning on going stage two during the Christmas break... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starks Posted November 24, 2015 Share Posted November 24, 2015 Yeah, just to clear the air I was saying that I know how it feels to keep crawling under a car for the same issue. It gets old quick. And I just happened to luck out and get a hold of a nameless dp. That's the reason I'm really curious on the install and all. Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eckseleven Posted November 24, 2015 Author Share Posted November 24, 2015 I need to run some more tests but I'm still able to hit about 17.5 psi with boost control set to 0% duty cycle. That doesn't seem right to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eckseleven Posted November 24, 2015 Author Share Posted November 24, 2015 Got to thinking it was pretty cool. IATs were 48F according to the logs. But would that make the boost that much higher? Going to gather some more logs and send them to the tuner for analysis. I just hope I'm not in the situation where the flapper is mostly free so I'm no longer overboosting but it still can't open fully which causes the spike. I was told with my temp map I shouldn't see much more than 15 psi. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eckseleven Posted November 25, 2015 Author Share Posted November 25, 2015 Ugh...over boosted while trying to get a good log. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted November 25, 2015 Share Posted November 25, 2015 Honestly, the tune that you have is probably no good because of the issue with the flapper while you were on the dyno, so it needs a revision now that your flapper is likely working correctly. Its okay thst you overboosted, your tuner will see that and revise the wgdc accordingly. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eckseleven Posted November 25, 2015 Author Share Posted November 25, 2015 I've sent a log so we'll see. But in the discussions I've had so far my current tune should not allow it to exceed 15 psi when the wastegate is functioning properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eckseleven Posted November 25, 2015 Author Share Posted November 25, 2015 Alright, got a response back. To summarize, his response is basically that one of these things is going on: 1. Flapper still can't move properly. 2. The DP flows too well which is causing extreme boost creep. The cold weather enhances this. 3. Wastegate flow with this DP isn't good. Harbor Fright has a cheap mityvac pump so I guess I'll get that and verify the waste gate can move properly now. If it does, I'm at a loss for what to do next. GTEASER, I think you mentioned someone needing to modify the rod or heat shield around the actuator or something. I'll go back couple pages and reread, but do you have any more specific details? Hopefully something like that is going on now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eckseleven Posted November 25, 2015 Author Share Posted November 25, 2015 I should add that since others have had good luck installing this DP and actually being able to mitigate over boost, I wouldn't expect there to be serious design issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jojorios Posted November 25, 2015 Share Posted November 25, 2015 Not sure if I missed it, but Apexofthevortex, did you get your boost issue solved? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apexofthevortex Posted November 25, 2015 Share Posted November 25, 2015 Not sure if I missed it, but Apexofthevortex, did you get your boost issue solved? I haven't tripped the MAP code since after the retune, so thats a good sign. I haven't been monitoring boost lately but if I remember correctly my target is set to 18 and when I was eyeing it after the retune it crept up to 20-21 so I'm pretty sure I'm still creeping but as long as I don't get that MAP code every time I do a 4th gear pull I'm not too worried about it. My car was also the first 5th gen my tuner ever tuned. I might get into contact with Logan or take it to TurboXS after the holidays just to get a second opinion on the tune. All in all I'm happy with it right now, I don't think my clutch is very happy with it though:lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cww516 Posted November 25, 2015 Share Posted November 25, 2015 GTEASER, I think you mentioned someone needing to modify the rod or heat shield around the actuator or something. I'll go back couple pages and reread, but do you have any more specific details? Hopefully something like that is going on now. I want to say Swannee had to do that, could be wrong, though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted November 25, 2015 Share Posted November 25, 2015 Swannee did the heat shield mod but not with the stock turbo, only after he went 18G. jackal had to do it too, but also with bigger turbo. jackal has an Invidia catless DP. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eckseleven Posted November 25, 2015 Author Share Posted November 25, 2015 Ok, so that is likely not my problem but we'll see after I hook a pump up. If the wategate checks out fine, then I guess this is just a symptom of the tiny wastegate. Porting or EWG is the only solution and I'm not willing to do either. I'd probably just go back to stage 1 which would be sad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted November 25, 2015 Share Posted November 25, 2015 Who is your tuner? Cryo and Tuning Alliance have done 5th Gens. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apexofthevortex Posted November 25, 2015 Share Posted November 25, 2015 Who is your tuner? Cryo and Tuning Alliance have done 5th Gens. I had a local shop here in Fairfax called Moore Automotive tune it for me, all these years and I had no clue there was a dyno 5 minutes down the street from my house. I might talk to cryo or TA as well, the only reason I'm a little worried about doing an e-tune is that there aren't a lot if any roads around here that I can do a full 3rd gear pull on without potentially losing my license. They're pretty big speed nazis here in VA, anything over 80mph or 20 over the limit is considered reckless and if the cop really wants to ruin your day they can take your license for 6 months and they can even throw you in jail, it really makes me miss the massive desolate highways in Colorado Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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