Starks Posted August 19, 2016 Share Posted August 19, 2016 Year, I saw them on Facebook talking about it. I wanted to pop up on the page and ask about what's up with out over boost problem. But I decided that wouldn't be cool. Â Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eckseleven Posted August 20, 2016 Author Share Posted August 20, 2016 Well I'm back in over boost land.... Got around to installing my Cobb intake box this past week and went out tonight to see if my IATs are back down to where they were with the stock intake. Things were looking great. Decided to do a 3rd gear pull starting at 3k RPM. Glad I was logging because she gave up before 5k RPM. It was much hotter when I first started the etune process with TA so that could explain why things looked good then. I sent out my log to see if anything can be done with the tune. WTF Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haruichi808 Posted August 20, 2016 Share Posted August 20, 2016 Just need a refund n go with a invidia or avo dp Having to mod it is redicilous Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted August 20, 2016 Share Posted August 20, 2016 Just need a refund n go with a invidia or avo dp Having to mod it is redicilous I don't disagree that modding on a part that claims to work isn't right, but all aftermarket downpipes so far have caused some over boosting except the original nameless one.  On another note, my porting bits and grimmspeed adapter are coming tomorrow, got some explaining to do when the dude shows up with the packages...exhaust leak sounds like a good reasonable one, lol. So I can probably get it put in Wednesday, I am concerned about running the cobb map though.  Good parameters to have on my V3 for monitoring? I have now: boost, target boost, fkc, dam, IAT, coolant temp Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zee199969 Posted August 20, 2016 Share Posted August 20, 2016 I have now: boost, target boost, fkc, dam, IAT, coolant temp  I've got boost, dam, fklc, fbkc, iat and coolant temp My "Build" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBPeik Posted August 21, 2016 Share Posted August 21, 2016 ^^^Exactly what I have as well My someday I will be done with it thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted August 22, 2016 Share Posted August 22, 2016 I received my goodies yesterday! Looks like Wednesday will be the day! Going to download the 91 octane stage 2 map just to be safe. After I am sure everything is working I will get with an e-tuner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starks Posted August 22, 2016 Share Posted August 22, 2016 I'm rooting for you. Good luck! Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted August 22, 2016 Share Posted August 22, 2016 I have a vague idea of how to get the exhaust housing off so hopefully that isn't complicated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cww516 Posted August 22, 2016 Share Posted August 22, 2016 If at first you don't succeed, try a bigger hammer! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted August 22, 2016 Share Posted August 22, 2016 If anyone has first hand knowledge of this turbo housing removal please chime in. I am assuming after looking at all the pictures I could find that I need to remove the whole turbo assembly. I was hoping the housing would just unbolt and then unclamp from the turbo assembly, but I fear not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBPeik Posted August 22, 2016 Share Posted August 22, 2016 As unfortunate as this is going to sound, your easiest way to do it will be to remove the whole manifold assembly with the turbo. It really is easy to remove. Then you will have a real clear view of everything you are doing. My someday I will be done with it thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted August 22, 2016 Share Posted August 22, 2016 As unfortunate as this is going to sound, your easiest way to do it will be to remove the whole manifold assembly with the turbo. It really is easy to remove. Then you will have a real clear view of everything you are doing. That is what I have been thinking, I know the manifold is easy enough to get off, so then the intake, charge pipe, coolant, and oil line connections. I think I can get it done fairly easily maybe two hours for removal and another two for install. Maybe two or three for exhaust housing disassembly and porting then reassembly. Piece of cake! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBPeik Posted August 22, 2016 Share Posted August 22, 2016 It is real easy to just disconnect the oil lines at the head. A bit tricky to get the manifold out with them on there, but it is a whole lot easier that way. I have done both methods. Just be sure to get new crush washers. You can get them from Subie, but most auto parts places will have them too. My someday I will be done with it thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted August 22, 2016 Share Posted August 22, 2016 It is real easy to just disconnect the oil lines at the head. A bit tricky to get the manifold out with them on there, but it is a whole lot easier that way. I have done both methods. Just be sure to get new crush washers. You can get them from Subie, but most auto parts places will have them too. Do you have a part number? And did you drain the coolant like the FSM says or just plug off the lines? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBPeik Posted August 22, 2016 Share Posted August 22, 2016 When I was doing it I was always pulling the motor, turbo gets in the way of removing engine, so I had the coolant drained anyway. You could easily plug the two coolant lines going to the turbo though. Should not be an issue. Sorry no part number for the crush washers. I just went to the dealer and looked at them on a diagram and got them that way. My someday I will be done with it thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zakster87 Posted August 22, 2016 Share Posted August 22, 2016 According to this diagram, part numbers that it lists are 803910050 and 803912040Â Turbo Assembly Diagram and Part Breakdown Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted August 22, 2016 Share Posted August 22, 2016 Any reason not to just undo the rubber oil line as well, and leave the hard line connected? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBPeik Posted August 22, 2016 Share Posted August 22, 2016 The hard line has to come off one way or the other. You can disconnect it at the turbo, but it is a whole lot easier to remove it at the head. My someday I will be done with it thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted August 22, 2016 Share Posted August 22, 2016 I see I thought it was a hard line with a rubber section, but that is just one of the lines, the other is hard line all the way. Thanks! I used your build thread pictures btw, so thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBPeik Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 No problem. Really glad to help. If you need any specific pics let me know. I have quite a few. My someday I will be done with it thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 (edited) Got my downpipe installed, no porting today. If I am wrong here I would love to know, but I don't see a lot of room for porting the wastegate. There is probably a few mm max.  For this thread I will add my advice for the what did you do thread. Drop the whole turbo and manifold, it is way easier than trying to work under the car. I took a vid of the wastegate so you all could see how much material there is to port, I will have to upload it to youtube and put a link here. My plan if I get over boost is to purchase a stock turbo have it ported and then swap them out. I can't afford the down time on the car now.  I will post some logs tomorrow hopefully. Wastegate video: https://youtu.be/Bzc21IqopH0 Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk Edited August 24, 2016 by FLlegacy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstorr Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 Got my downpipe installed, no porting today. If I am wrong here I would love to know, but I don't see a lot of room for porting the wastegate. There is probably a few mm max.  For this thread I will add my advice for the what did you do thread. Drop the whole turbo and manifold, it is way easier than trying to work under the car. I took a vid of the wastegate so you all could see how much material there is to port, I will have to upload it to youtube and put a link here. My plan if I get over boost is to purchase a stock turbo have it ported and then swap them out. I can afford the down time on the car now.  I will post some logs tomorrow hopefully. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk Just go outside and boost =) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eckseleven Posted August 24, 2016 Author Share Posted August 24, 2016 Got my downpipe installed, no porting today. If I am wrong here I would love to know, but I don't see a lot of room for porting the wastegate. There is probably a few mm max.  For this thread I will add my advice for the what did you do thread. Drop the whole turbo and manifold, it is way easier than trying to work under the car. I took a vid of the wastegate so you all could see how much material there is to port, I will have to upload it to youtube and put a link here. My plan if I get over boost is to purchase a stock turbo have it ported and then swap them out. I can't afford the down time on the car now.  Since porting has been very successful by others (fahr_side is a great resource) I'd say there is good reason to do it despite how it looks. Also, from what I recall a big portion of the porting actually occurs on the other side, not the opening...smoothing out that whole "tunnel" for lack of the technical term, that leads to the opening. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted August 25, 2016 Share Posted August 25, 2016 A couple mm can make a big difference. On my truck, I put an aftermarket turbo. At 2/3 throttle is was hitting 18psi even though it had a 12psi actuator. I call the manufacturer think they sent me a 18psi actuator (the other option) and they asked me if i ported the wastegate. Somewhere it got lost between them and the turbo shop that I was suppose port the wastegate. I opened it up from ~27mm to 31mm and it made all the difference in the world. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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