2005 outback xt rebuild chronicles

[JmP6889928]

Throw a pump seal it it too while you have the converter out.

[CloudSeed777]

The line you have listed as a water line is, in fact, an oil line. The only two banjo bolts on the entire car that are water line related are the two on the side of the turbo housing and are nothing that you would normally take off during a rebuild. They come off with the turbo as part of the unit, so remember that all the banjo bolts that you have with the exception of the smaller one that goes into the top of the turbo housing, are the same (not counting the two with the bump outs in the top-indicating that those are the bolts with the filters in them and they make no difference where you would put them) and can be interchanged anywhere on the car.

 

Oil banjo bolts on your EJ257

Two banjo bolts on the DS head for the head to OCV line.

Two banjo bolts on the PS head for the head to OCV Line and the back of the block for the oil feed to the turbo hard line.

One banjo bolt specifically for the top of the turbo with the small .055" hole and only fits in that location.

 

Good luck.

 

 

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the hard line in the "Banjo-Bolts Galore" post above is indeed a water line. It's the hard-line that the small u-turn pipe that is sheathed in a foil covering and connects to the water line from the turbo (you can see the hard-line in the bottom of the photo below, and the line it connects to is near the top and sort of out of focus):

 

http://i.imgur.com/bKhdryG.jpg

[MrTris]

Yes, the foiled line is a water line.

[CloudSeed777]

USELESS SENSOR:

 

The PCV air hose that goes from the plastic "Tee" valve body that connects to the engine-block vent and hooks to the back of the intake then to the turbo inlet has a "sensor" in the tube. It's actually not a sensor at all, but a dummy circuit that ensures the connector is connected. Why this is I have no idea probably some genius faux smog protection. At any rate, you can delete that "sensor" tube and permanently affix the connection by taking the jumper out of the male side of the connector and putting it in the female connector making the circuit. For me this made connecting the aftermarket turbo inlet to that PCV tube much easier (it should be connected!). I taped up the connector to keep the jumper from coming out, and tucked and zip-tied the connector up and out of the way on the vacuum tube on the back of the intake.

 

http://i.imgur.com/XqUyU7X.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/mmqhcXN.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/2wZh2Bi.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/Y9knmeA.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/qFF2B9y.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/CeqTDaE.jpg

[CloudSeed777]

FINAL PREP - SUGGESTIONS

 

 

It's almost time to shoe-horn the engine back into the car. Will be putting the timing stuff on today, then it'll be about ready to go.

 

This said, I'm putting out a request for a final check-list, tips, must-do's, and suggestions in preparation for the drop. I have my first-ignition, pre-flight plan ready to go. I have all fluids, filters, etc. I've cleaned the MAF sensor.

 

Looking for things I may have over-looked, or info such as should I take intake mani off before i drop the engine then put it back on in the car? How about the exhaust mani? Unless i get unexpected help, it looks like I'll be doing this solo as the help I had taking it out will not be available. Any info/help would be appreciated!

 

 

http://i.imgur.com/Hb21b6P.jpg

 

PRE-FLIGHT START-UP BREAK-IN PROCEDURE:

 

1. Install engine and all accessories (Removal of Banjo-Bolt Filters is highly recommended).

 

2. When installing the turbo, hook up the bottom coolant line and then pre-fill the turbo with coolant before hooking up the top line. This ensures that there is no air trapped inside of the coolant jacket of the turbo. -Install top coolant line.

 

3. Install the bottom oil return line on the turbo. Poor a couple of tablespoons of oil into the top of the turbo where the oil feed line connects. This will insure that the bearings get a good dose of oil during start-up. Connect the top oil line to the turbo.

 

4. Add 4qts of oil and coolant to the engine. Use conventional 10-40, non detergent 30wt or another approved break in oil. (No Mobil 1 oil on turbo'd engines! Mobil 1 does not contain the zinc needed for proper seal and preservation of the bronze journal bearings. Use Shell Rotella T-6 5W-40 Diesel oil, Amsoil Euro 5W-40, or a good synthetic, but NO MOBIL 1!)

 

5. If possible, hook a battery charger on the battery to give a voltage boost to aid in fast cranking. Remove crank sensor plug, and if you so choose, you may remove the spark plugs (some people believe the following procedure fouls the plugs).

 

Turn the ignition and crank the engine for 30 second intervals until you are positive you have achieved oil pressure. This can be observed by the low oil pressure light or any aftermarket gauge. Also, when you have good oil pressure you'll notice an audible difference in the engine as it speeds up and oil gets to the bearings and cams. This is the number one reason we don't just start engines. Many people believe that starting an engine is the best way to get oil to it and that the assembly lube will protect the bearings. The large audible increase in speed says otherwise. Granted the oil viscosity is different than the assembly lube, there still isn't as good of lubrication.

 

6. Once you establish oil pressure, crank the engine for another 10-20 seconds. This ensures that you have oil to all bearings and passages.

 

7. Install plugs if you removed them, and reconnect crank sensor.

 

8. Start engine and maintain 2000 rpm for 20 minutes. During this time, have someone checking the engine for leaks. If a small drip is present, that isn't a big deal and you should maintain rpm. If a larger leak is present, shut the engine down, fix the leak and start the engine and run it for 20 minutes. Check that the radiator fans turn on and closely watch coolant temperature.

 

9. Change oil.

 

10. Burp the cooling system: Jack the RF wheel as high as you can. Remove the cap from the turbo coolant reservoir and fill with coolant. Start engine and let it run while massaging the top radiator hose every couple of minutes. Keep adding coolant until it will not take any more. Put cap back on before lowering the vehicle.

 

11. Drive car if it's ready. If using new cams, change the oil at 100 miles. If not, change the oil at 500 miles. During the break in period, the engine should see no more than 7-10 psi of boost and 5k rpm. Maintain AFRs in the mid 12's under low boost and 14's under idle and cruise. 10 or 11:1 will not help the break in. No long pulls under boost. Just short bursts of about 2-3k rpm in any gear. Do not row through the gears under boost until at least 500miles. The goal is good ring seal without creating any hot spots by overloading unseated rings.

 

12. Check oil frequently as these cars inherently use oil. A habit of checking oil while filling up at the gas station is a good rule of thumb. Keep a quart of oil under the hood next to the battery to top off when needed.

[Max Capacity]

I put mine in by myself, with everything bolted on less AC and PS.

 

Tighten all the gas line clamps under the intake manifold.

 

I had to raise up the rear of the car to get the engine and tranny to mate up.

 

You did read my click here link....

 

 

Oh have you trial fit the tmic ?

 

I learned to leave the trubo lose on the bolts or studs, start the tmic on the TB hose, align the tmic over the turbo, start the two bolts, start the support bracket bolts, tighten the TB hose clamp, then tighten the rest.

Let the tmic locate the turbo.

[CloudSeed777]

I put mine in by myself, with everything bolted on less AC and PS.

 

Tighten all the gas line clamps under the intake manifold.

 

I had to raise up the rear of the car to get the engine and tranny to mate up.

 

You did read my click here link....

 

 

Oh have you trial fit the tmic ?

 

I learned to leave the trubo lose on the bolts or studs, start the tmic on the TB hose, align the tmic over the turbo, start the two bolts, start the support bracket bolts, tighten the TB hose clamp, then tighten the rest.

Let the tmic locate the turbo.

 

Thanks, this is exactly the kind of info I'm looking for.

 

I did not test fit the IC> will do that before it goes in.

[CloudSeed777]

Alright, having a tough time getting the passenger side cam alignment pin to seat into the AVCS pulley. Any tips of getting this thing lined up and seated???

[CloudSeed777]

CHAINED AND READY TO DROP!

 

So, the AVCS pulley problem turned out to be that the caps on the back of the pulleys are different lengths. After i took them apart to clean them I put the caps on the wrong pulley, so the end of the passenger side AVCS pulley cap was hitting the cam before the pin could engage on the inside. Took them apart again and swapped the caps.

 

In the process of trying to figure this out, I knocked the PS exhaust pulley off the work bench and onto the floor. The POS bakelite pulley cracked and split. Another $100 trip to the Parts Dept got me a new one.

 

Installed cam pulleys, idlers, belt, and belt cover. Final install of exhaust manifold, cat-less UP, and turbo. Test fit inter-cooler.

 

http://i.imgur.com/1DbDMpq.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/mWoxx9m.jpg

 

 

 

Have no idea where these go. They were sitting above the engine bay in the pocket of the hood-hinge.

 

http://i.imgur.com/0FlyrRt.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/hKsDS5h.jpg

 

Installed new pump-seal in the transmission snout, and put the torque-converter back in place.

 

http://i.imgur.com/5O8Ayk3.jpg

 

Ready to shoe-horn in tomorrow.

 

http://i.imgur.com/pSMjGp3.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/OGMEApM.jpg

[kzr750r1]

Good luck with the install.

[CloudSeed777]

Good luck with the install.

 

Thank you!

 

Starting here in about a half-hour!

[MrTris]

You can do it!

[CloudSeed777]

ENGINE IS IN.

 

Before I begin with the engine drop details......

 

MOD: I opted to do the Throttle Body coolant bypass mod. This is supposed to keep the air charge a little cooler. Coolant goes through the Throttle Body to WARM it for cold weather. The climate here is a warmer one, so should have no problems with this, and people in colder climates report no problems. A full write up on this mod with pics can be found here:

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/diy-throttle-body-coolant-bypass-204150.html?t=204150

 

This shows the cross over after mod. You can use one of the OEM hoses that run from these pipes to the TB, but I had some extra hose lying around, and that way I can go back later if I need to for some reason.

 

http://i.imgur.com/bt7cXIl.jpg

 

I used a bit of hose with some RTV as a plug for the TB's hose fittings - probably not necessary, but whatever:

 

http://i.imgur.com/02E2kqg.jpg

 

Dropping the engine turned out to be a lot easier than I thought it was going to be being that I was doing it alone. It was 65 mostly sunny - great weather for dropping an engine!

 

http://i.imgur.com/yiRAYYX.jpg

 

After doing another once-over on the engine to make sure everything was secure and in place, I lined up the hoist with the engine on the stand in front of the car so I wasn't swinging it around on the chain to get it in place. I put the engine in the car with full Intake Manifold, exhaust, up-pipe, and turbo bolted in place and it was actually pretty easy with no clearance issues. In this pic you can see I used a chunk of bubble wrap to protect the intake manifold from the rear chain.

 

http://i.imgur.com/sfL5tIv.jpg

 

I applied a liberal dose of Anti-Cease on the guide pins, the studs, and the torque-converter nipple. This helps things slide into place, AND will make separation easier if it comes to that again.

 

http://i.imgur.com/xDfpJ9U.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/lhVQbgV.jpg

 

I used my floor jack to raise the transmission about 1/2" from hitting the fire wall. This gives plenty of room for the approach. Using the floor jack rather than a stationary jack is also very convenient because it allows you to adjust the trans up and down - this helped tremendously with getting the engine to seat once I had it on the studs.

 

DO NOT raise the trans by putting the jack under the trans pan - you'll foul it. Use the trans-axle. I also used a doubled up box of cardboard to protect the trans-axle housing.

 

Patience is the key, and be easy with both lowering the hoist, and adjusting the floor jack. Small increments is key.

 

http://i.imgur.com/PLaAxSS.jpg

 

You can barely see it in this photo, but the hood actually has a hole near the bottom of the passenger side that the hood support rod fits into. This gives you much more clearance for the engine and hoist. I didn't know this when I took the engine out of the car.

 

http://i.imgur.com/omXlqvC.jpg

 

Once I got the studs started, it was just a matter of some pushing, but more importantly making adjustments with the hoist and the floor-jack. Once it was within 1" of mating I dropped the jack a bit and it slid right up to near flush. I then brought it together with the top passenger side bolt an the bolt that goes through the starter, and then the bottom with the nuts on the studs.

 

http://i.imgur.com/hknCJUw.jpg

 

Also, that metal flap that is bolted to the bottom of the engine that you can see in the photo above is meant to seal the bottom of the trans/bell housing. Once you have the engine seated in place, that flap can be gently pried up and into place very nicely using a pry-bar.

 

 

This guy was overseeing my work most of the day.

 

http://i.imgur.com/pgPQHAF.jpg

 

And a couple fly-by's

 

http://i.imgur.com/6nQZCru.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/9rs0bLj.jpg

 

 

This is where I stopped today as I had dinner plans. It took me about an hour to get the engine in place and seated after getting it chained up, off the stand, the floor-jack in place, and the anti-cease slathered, etc.

 

http://i.imgur.com/xdZ4HB9.jpg

 

When I pulled the engine, the AC pump was a real PITA to get off because one of the bolts that holds its small mounting bracket on is near impossible to get a wrench to. This time I pulled the entire larger bracket off and mounted the smaller one to it with it out. This made it soooo much easier.

 

I'm probably about 2 hours of work away from first ignition. Yee hah.

 

Stay tuned....

[CloudSeed777]

These guys are to the grille.

 

http://i.imgur.com/hKsDS5h.jpg

[CloudSeed777]

OK guys, I DID NOT think ahead on this one. Is there a way to turn the torque converter so I can line it up with the fly wheel to get the bolts in? Did a search on this and could not find anything. Any help would be appreciated.

 

 

EDIT for next time. If I ever do this again, I'll take a ruler & Sharpie and draw a line from the center of each bolt-hole toward the center of the Torque Converter. That would make lining up the holes from the top a lot easier.

[BarManBean]

Can you just turn the flywheel by turning the main crank pulley?

[MrTris]

Can you just turn the flywheel by turning the main crank pulley?

 

This. That should be how they came out, and how they should go back in, too.

[kzr750r1]

Need a second set of eyeballs or crankin hands.

 

What did you mean about the lower transmission cover? You needed a crowbar to nudge it over the transmission?

 

Mine was a little munged after the extraction... I was also hoping to replace the weather/sound dampener on it... You may have a new rattle if the plate is not insulated in some way.

[CloudSeed777]

Thanks for the replies!

 

Turning the engine wasn't the problem, it was being able to see the bolt holes on the TC - with the intake manifold on the engine it's not possible from the top, and turning the torque converter was near impossible as well.

 

Funny enough I found the answer on a chevy forum.

 

I ended up raising the engine/trans again and removing that plate that fills the gap between the engine/trans. From there you can easily get your hands on the torque converter to spin it into alignment, and much much more room to work. Also, you don't risk dropping a bolt down from the top, which is kind of a pucker factor IMO.

 

When I took the engine out, I removed these bolts from the top which was a piece of cake

 

http://i.imgur.com/CPacrwk.jpg

[CloudSeed777]

Need a second set of eyeballs or crankin hands.

 

What did you mean about the lower transmission cover? You needed a crowbar to nudge it over the transmission?

 

Mine was a little munged after the extraction... I was also hoping to replace the weather/sound dampener on it... You may have a new rattle if the plate is not insulated in some way.

 

I don't know what that thing is called, but mine got bent down when I took the engine out. Even though I bent it back when it was off the car it still had a considerable gap when i got the engine/trans together. I took a pry bar and pried it up bending it back flush with the bell housing where it should be. Do this before you lower the engine as you can't get to it with it down on the engine mounts.

[MrTris]

I believe you're talking about the optional lower cover -- a goldish-brass piece, right?

[kzr750r1]

Yes, I'm talking about the extra gold cover you ditched Tris.

 

Least I'm not alone bending it on the way out.

 

So the final adjustments were on the car. Check, were back on the same page.

 

Looks like your winning.

[JmP6889928]

I moved my TC from the top hole in the back under the rubber cover. The converter moves easily. Crank the engine until one hole on the flex plate is visible through the hole, rotate the converter to line up bolt hole and put first bolt in. Rotate engine to the next hole and so on. Easy to do.

[CloudSeed777]

Yes, I'm talking about the extra gold cover you ditched Tris.

 

Least I'm not alone bending it on the way out.

 

So the final adjustments were on the car. Check, were back on the same page.

 

Looks like your winning.

 

 

Yeah, that thing is pretty flimsy. Final adjustment was with it in the car using a pry-bar to bend it back up in place:

 

http://i.imgur.com/W5NMj83.jpg

[CloudSeed777]

I moved my TC from the top hole in the back under the rubber cover. The converter moves easily. Crank the engine until one hole on the flex plate is visible through the hole, rotate the converter to line up bolt hole and put first bolt in. Rotate engine to the next hole and so on. Easy to do.

 

I couldn't see it no matter what angle I looked at it. The car was in direct sunlight so that could have been some of the problem. At any rate, I got'r done!