2005 outback xt rebuild chronicles

[CloudSeed777]

'05 OUTBACK XT REBUILD CHRONICLES

 

http://i.imgur.com/wYhSWNI.jpg?2

 

If you decide to tackle this job yourself, HEED: DO MUCH RESEARCH BEFORE YOU BEGIN!!!! There is a great wealth of info to be had on the interwebs. A big shout out out to Mr.Tris and his build sheet write up here on this forum for direction on parts. I strayed from it a bit, but good baseline info. Some great resources I found outside of this site include the following:

 

Subaru forums - there are lots:

www.nasioc.com

www.clubwrx.net

www.wrxtuners.com

etc......

 

"Subaru Mike's" Rebuild Videos on YouTube. Mike is a Master Subaru Tech and has some great vids regarding these engines. I would start with this one for confidence:

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-gmtEQ1GpmA]Subaru STI Short Block Assembly - YouTube[/ame]

 

User "RatchetsAnd Wrenches" Subaru 2.5 Rebuild series (10 videos) on YouTube. This guy goes through step by step process of tear down to rebuild of a Subaru 2.5. I personally question his choice to re-use some of the parts he did in his featured build (he re-used everything including the main bearings LOL), however, the info you will gleen from his vids is solid and his presentation is short and concise:

http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLaRuYYPxjXI3O4qo86qj-xT_HEzwYLKwB

SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED

Subaru engines are set up nicely IMO as far as fasteners. You'll mostly use 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm wrench/sockets, pretty much in that order too. However there are a few tools you'll need that I didn't find in my toolbox and had to purchase:

1 ton engine hoist - Harbor Freight - $249.99+tax

(PRO-TIP: Use the box from this monster to store the parts you tear off the engine!)

 

http://i.imgur.com/5NaQR5h.jpg

 

750lb Engine Stand - Harbor Freight - $45.99

Torque Wrench - I got a Crafstman 1/2" - $40.00 on sale.

14mm Hex socket - used to access piston wrist pins - I got them at Harbor Frieght, i had to buy a set (Sears did not have this) - $15.15

24mm deep well socket (needed to remove oil cooler from block) - Craftsman - $10.00

Piston Ring compressor - Amazon - $9.99

Impact Driver - Needed for the panels on the back of the block. I had one, but I would consider this a specialty tool not everyone has.

 

http://i.imgur.com/h87TqKs.jpg

 

HAVE A GOAL, MAKE A PLAN:

Set some goals, set a budget, and be realistic because you'll go through your budget fast! I have been without a car for the better part of 6 months. I've been commuting to work via bicycle - 14 miles one way. It's actually been really great - I've lost 25lb's getting over an hour and a half of cardio on work days! This being said, not having a car has not been fun. I've been saving my pennies for this purchase/rebuild. The goal is to rebuild the car with light mods without breaking the bank. This car will be my DD, so longevity is the priority. I'd like to kick it in the rear a bit and get 270-300hp, but that is secondary. Dependability is key as this will be a Daily Driver on a pretty strict budget.

 

MY PARTS LIST AND FINAL COST BREAKDOWN

 

Conservative Daily Driver Budget Parts List

 

The goal of my build was to get the car back on the road, and doing it on a pretty conservative budget. I bought the car with a blown engine (rod knock #2 rod bearing). I spent a lot of time shopping parts to get the best deal I could find. In doing so I built my own short block to help with savings. Please note that I bought my rebuild gasket kit and other OEM parts before I heard about Huerburger Subaru's discounts - some might be cheaper going through them.

 

Here's a break down of my complete rebuild cost (less turbo) INCLUDING the tools I needed to purchase for the build that I did not have already. Your mileage may very in that regard, but I wanted to put this detailed list out there to those looking to do a rebuild as a necessity for their DD without going overboard. I'm very happy with the results I obtained. Car runs strong, no leaks and no issues to date.

 

My build thread: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...ght=chronicles

THIS IS MY FINAL REBUILD-COST BREAK DOWN, SANS TURBO AS INDICATED:

 

REBUILD MISC SUPPLIES

 

AUTOZONE/O'Reileys/Dealership:

11 bottles of BrakeCleen @ $5.49 $65.19

1 Tube Ultra Grey Gasket Maker $7.49

1 Bottle MAF sensor Cleaner $8.39

1 Tube Permatex High Temp Thread Sealant $5.39

1 Bottle Thread Lock $21.99

1 Permatex White Lithium Grease $3.49

1 Metal Epoxy (TGV Delete to seal bolts) $5.99

1 Bottle Lucas Assembly Lube $4.99

1 Copper Washer Kit (O'Reilley's - has all you'll need) $12.00

3 Subaru OEM oil filter (ebay) 18.00

1 Wik's Transmission Filter $6.00

5 Qt Valvoline 5-30W Engine Oil $21.00

11 Qts Subaru OEM Transmission Fluid (Local Dealership) $78.21

 

TOTAL::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ::::::::::::::$258.13

 

TOOLS

 

Amazon:

Powerbuilt 648433 Piston Ring Compressor $15.81

 

SEARS:

Metric Wrench Set, Pry Bar, 14mm flex, 24mm socket, Hex set $60.81

 

NAPA:

Five Point Torx Bit T-30 (ACVS PULLEYS) $4.29

 

Harbor Freight:

Impact wrench, drain pan, Serpentine Belt Tool, Eng Hoist,

Engine Stand, Auto Ramps $349.18

Large Metric Hex Set $15.15

6 Piece Tube Brush Set (for cleaning oil lines, etc) $6.99

3 Piece Wire Brush Set (for cleaning parts) $1.59

 

ACE HARDWARE:

4 - 7/16" X 1" X 14 Bolts (TGV Delete) $2.09 ea. $9.30

(These bolts fit perfectly in the holes after they are threaded for 7/16, no other drilling needed)

 

TOTAL::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ::::::::::::::$463.12

 

--------------

 

MACHINE SHOP

(My heads passed leak/seal tests so no rebuild was necessary)

 

Inspection of engine halves and heads: $150.00

Block Halves: Bore/hone/fit pistons: $160.00

Heads: polish journals/clean oil galleys, replace galley plugs $150.00

 

TOTAL::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ::::::::::::::$460.00

 

--------------

 

PARTS

 

Amazon:

Oil Pump (11mm) Subaru Part# 15010AA360 $128.88

Crankshaft Subaru OEM Part# 12200AA330 $319.90

Subaru OEM Oil Cooler Part# 21311AA051 $209.95

Godspeed Silicone Turbo Inltet $60.89

 

TOTAL::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ::::::::::::::$719.62

 

 

EBAY:

Outback Factory Service Shop Repair Manual W/ Parts List 05 $6.99

Cabin Air Filter $5.05

MAGNETIC OIL DRAIN PLUG $7.88

Gates Timing Kit Performance Blue $250.95

Nippon Racing Pistons JDM OEM STI/Scat Rods ARP 100.00mm $524.95

ACL Race Main & Rod Bearings 52mm $85.36

ARP 260-4701 Head Stud Kit $173.00

Intake AVCS Cam Pulleys 13320AA001, 13322AA001 (2014 WRX-STI) $183.00

Premium Silicone Tubing (3/16", 1/8", 1/4" I.D.) $30.56

 

TOTAL::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ::::::::::::::$1267.74

SUBARU OEM PARTS:

( http://www.subarupartsamerica.com/partlocator )

( http://www.xtremevwparts.com this is my local Subaru Dealership)

 

overhaul gasket/seal set Part# 10105AA720 $263.68

Oil Pan Subaru Part# 11109AA131 $99.34

Oil Pan Pick Up Tube Subaru Part# 15049AA070 $23.15

Spark Plugs (NGK SILFR6A) 22401AA670 $46.56

Block Breather "S" Hose 99071AC220 $6.22

Brake Booster Vacuum Hose 11861AA030 $18.29

Valve Cover Vacuum Hose (Drivers Side) 99071AC240 $5.57

Valve Cover Vacuum Hose (Drivers Side)99071AC230 $8.14

Valve Cover Vacuum Hose (Passenger Side) 99071AD100 $18.98

Valve Cover Vacuum Hose (Passenger Side) 99071AC010 $7.46

Shipping (Yours may vary) $60.00

 

TOTAL::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ::::::::::::::$557.39

 

 

Custom built VF40 turbo by John Pierce $XXX.XX

(Inquire with JmP about cost)

 

 

GRAND TOTAL (NOT INCLUDING TURBO PURCHASE)**********************$3726.25

 

BEGIN:

October 24, 2014 I bought a '05 Subaru Outback XT. I had been lurking this site and others for a good three weeks prior to the purchase doing research for the purchase of what I thougth was going to be a WRX. I was waiting for someone to post a grenaded WRX on CL so I could snatch it up and rebuild it. One day during my routine CL hunt, I came across this XT and could not pass up the deal. After doing a little research (finding out it essentially has an STI engine) and seeing what people do to them, count me in. Realistically this car fits my life-style much better than a WRX anyway. I got a great deal on the car, but the car came with an engine-knock. As for its history, evidently the car was traded in to a Toyota dealership and developed the knock pending its resale. Imagine that test drive! The dealership opted to auction the car off rather than fix it, and so it goes.

 

The car started and ran when I bought it, but it had a horrendous knock. Other than that, the car is CLEAN. It's like a time-capsule - the interior is almost untouched for a 10 year old car, and the exterior is near blemish free. It is known that Subaru owners tend to take care of their cars. There's 105K on the ODO. The dealer must have put some money into the car getting it ready for resale - it had new oil, air-cleaner, coolant, new disks/pads on all four corners, and of course it's been detailed in and out.

 

From the research I had done, I was 90% certain the knock was the proverbial Subaru "rod knock." I had the car towed from place of purchase as to not damage the engine further.

 

ENGINE TEAR DOWN

After the purchase of engine crane and stand from Harbor Freight, I started pulling parts off the car. By the time I thought the engine was ready to come out, I had pulled just about everything off of it save the TGV's and fuel rails. PRO-TIP: Do this AFTER you pull the engine - you'll save time and frustration! I've also been told you can pull the engine with turbo intact. I did not. What a plumbing nightmare!!! However, I'm glad I did take it all apart, as I've taken the time while the engine is at Machine Shop to clean all the intake parts, and do the "TGV delete."

 

http://i.imgur.com/PyGpFD1.jpg?2

 

http://i.imgur.com/STGURUt.jpg?2

 

http://i.imgur.com/C9KpPYk.jpg?2

 

Getting the engine torn down on the stand was heaps of fun. I broke three (count them THREE) ratchets, two extensions(sheered), and three cracked sockets tearing the engine down. Mind you all three ratchets were 3/8" using cheater-bar (two Craftsman's that have been replaced for free - on the same day, and a Pitsburgh pictured here). I broke two 14mm sockets between the head bolts (WOW just WOW) and the trans/engine bolts (TOTAL PITA).

 

http://i.imgur.com/hDbE5QI.jpg

Note the twisted extension, and two new sockets.

 

PRO-TIP: When removing the engine/trans bolts, have a second person turning the wrench from above, while you place and hold the socket secure on the nut from below.

 

The third broken socket was my 22mm that was destroyed getting the harmonic balancer bolt off the crankshaft. I FINALLY got this thing off AFTER a couple 15 minute very frustrating sessions with a 1/2" electric impact, as well as the famed two extension (I used bolts) in the harmonic-balance r - pry bar against the ground trick.

 

PRO TIP: Either release this beast via the "starter" method while the engine is still in the car, or after engine removal hold the fly-wheel or flex-plate at the back of the motor with a screw-driver, which is what I finally did and it came off with ease.

 

TAG AND BAG

Use zip-locks and Sharpie to catalog all of your fasteners by part as you tear into the block. On parts that need to be kept in order, use cardboard to store them in order.

 

http://i.imgur.com/gQ0tjSQ.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/lPYD5f4.jpg

DIAGNOSIS:

My assumptions were correct. When I got the engine block halves separated, it was clear that the #2 rod bearing was completely hosed. It had a great deal of play which created the dreaded "knock."

 

PRO-TIP: I used the trick of putting cloth wrapped screw-drivers through two wrist-pin holes into the rods (same side of engine), then turning the crank bolt to separate the engine block halves. The block easily came apart with very little effort (see WratchetAnd Wrenches' videos to see this in action).

 

Rod #2 on the left below (note the absence of bearing material compared to the rod on the right):

http://i.imgur.com/avvmocA.jpg

 

FOOLS GOLD!

If the oil pan were a gold panning pan I could have funded this entire build including initial purchase! Large chunks of metal were observable with a lining of silver paste (read aluminum) throughout the bottom of the pan. The play in the #2 rod was such that it glanced off the bottom of the block cutting away a bit of aluminum into the oil.

 

Rod #2 is on the right (note the sheen from beating the block):

http://i.imgur.com/dy06PLO.jpg

 

A look at the oil pan:

 

http://i.imgur.com/0LRf66I.jpg?1

 

http://i.imgur.com/sRSLA2I.jpg?1

 

http://i.imgur.com/rlZ8f1i.jpg?1

 

BLOCK AND HEADS

A lot of people opt to purchase a NEW OEM short block for this rebuild. I decided to rebuild the original block myself to save some money (AFTER INSPECTION AT MACHINE SHOP GAVE THE GREEN LIGHT that the block wasn't warped due to over-heating). There is much debate about 100K mile "seasoned" engine blocks being best platform for building (a lot of race builders swear by this). As it is said, the block has metallurgically "settled" through the process of hours and hours of heating and cooling. It is also said by some that pissing on your engine block prior to build strengthens its longevity! Unfortunately, I learned this after my block went to the Machine Shop.

http://www.enginelabs.com/news/engine-myth-urinating-on-cylinder-block-improves-durability/

 

I took the block and heads to a reputable machine shop that knows Subaru engines. The heads were inspected and they passed the seal/seat test - yeah, no valve job needed. The heads had no warp, and will be throuroughly cleaned (oil ports removed) after journal/cam polishing and decking. The block was also inspected and given the green light for boring for the rebuild with no warp. Because of debris in the oil, the block will be bored over .5mm and honed to my piston purchase - .5mm oversized (100mm) Nippon Racing semi-forged JDM OEM racing pistons and all new Scat Rods found as a kit on Ebay.

 

CRANKSHAFT

I opted to purchase a brand new crank from Subaru. This is about the same money, and better peice of mind as having the original crank machined, and i can use Standard size bearings for the build. I'm HOPING that I will recieve the new '12< heat treated sample, but the part numbers are the same for the old nitrate coated cranks. According to speculation on the forums, the new '12 on version is "supposed to be stronger made of a different alloy recipe", the nitrate one being said to be weaker alloy made up by nitrate coating (you can research that debate to your heart's desire).

 

#2 crank journal (center) - note the size difference in the oiling hole

http://i.imgur.com/g47zg99.jpg

 

TURBO

When I got the intake off the turbo I felt the wheel for play both laterally and side to side. It had absolutely none and spins freely. I thought the turbo managed to survive until I took it off the car. Upon further inspection once off the car, I noticed that the turbine wheel was missing bits of material from the outside edges of the fins. It looks like some sort of debris went through it, but the intake side was untouched. This is my first time wrenching a turbo'd car, so i honestly can't tell you where the debris would have come from. At any rate, a rebuild or new turbo is in order and I have not decided which way to go as of this post.

 

http://i.imgur.com/ubbs7E1.jpg?2

 

http://i.imgur.com/U4q7ejP.jpg?4

 

PISTONS/RODS

Pistons needed to be replaced due to block bore. I also wanted to replace the rods so I didn't have to monkey around with honing and off-sized bearings for #2 rod that failed. I did not opt to go with forged pistons because of expense, and my goals do not necessitate forged. I went with JDM OEM STI semi-forged pistons with Scat Rods. This set up should be more stout than USDM internals. Some will no-doubt happily debate this. Let them eat cake!

 

#2 Piston:

http://i.imgur.com/uFOsv4g.jpg

 

MY FIRST PART HAS ARRIVED!

 

Got my first part in the mail today - Nov 8. The oil pump. It's packaged

like it came from the fish market - a fine slab of Atlantic Tuna straight from

Japan.

http://i.imgur.com/L2BEEoX.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/SYziOh2.jpg

[Max Capacity]

Nice thread. Looking forward to more of the story.

 

Do you have a catless up pipe ?

[CloudSeed777]

Thanks! Stay tuned! I do not have Catlesss UP yet, but have read all about the issue. I was leaning toward gutting my OEM. I went back and forth with Mr.Tris about this in PM. I'm seriously considering one of the "Ebay" header/UP kits like the one below. From the research I've done, people that have used them like what they got. Otherwise I'll find a used STI UP.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fit-02-06-Subaru-Impreza-WRX-STI-GDB-EJ20-EJ25-Stainless-Steel-Header-Gaskets-/111355666935?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19ed50a1f7&vxp=mtr

The big complaint I've seen about these is the gaskets they come with. I live in AZ, so rust is very minimal.

[MrTris]

Wow, great first post!

 

I like the goldpan comment -- I believe I had one of those in my thread, too.

 

Have you contacted JmP6889928 about the turbo, yet?

 

Sub'd to see the progress! Way to go!

[CloudSeed777]

Ha ha! Mr.Tris, just want to give you a shout out for the PM replies to my questions, it's been helpful! I sent a PM to JmP over the weekend, but have not heard back from him yet.

 

YES - I saw your gold-pan comment! This was after I took the pan off mine and had the same exact thought. FOOLS GOLD!!!!!

 

USPS tried to deliver my pistons to the Machine Shop on Saturday, but they were already closed!!!! So, they should get them this afternoon for final honing/fitment. That means I should be able to pick up my block and heads on Tues or Wed! Starting to get excited!!!

[keenster]

Nice write up! Sounds like you know what you're doing and what you want out of this build

 

Sub'd for outcome and help on my build.

 

Good luck dude!

[CloudSeed777]

Hey guys,

 

I'm still debating the cost of adding the performance head bolts to my build. I found ARP 260-4701 head bolts for $173 on Ebay.

[/url]

 

 

However, I found some interesting info from "Subaru Mike" on YouTube. In the following video he states that he prefers the Subaru OEM head bolts to aftermarket, because the aftermarket ones "yield way too much." He goes on to state that every Sub technician he knows re-uses OEM head bolts.

 

Here's the vid started at the comments in question:

 

 

Thoughts?

[MrTris]

A stud will always give greater and more even pressure than bolt, every time. I don't see why this is an issue.

 

Notice, also, Mike is like, a frickin' hundred.

[Max Capacity]

I wouldn't put one of these engines together without ARP head studs. That's just foolishness to not do that.

[CloudSeed777]

Thanks guys - Mr.Tris, trying to save a buck! Max Capacity you sound like my dad saying that! He would always say "that's foolishness!"

 

Interesting thread here regarding this. If you use ARP specs for torquing during build, it is stated that a re-torque is required after break-in. What in the world.

 

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1451471

[MrTris]

"Oh, honestly!"

[Rhitter]

 

Interesting thread here regarding this. If you use ARP specs for torquing during build, it is stated that a re-torque is required after break-in. What in the world.

 

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1451471

 

This seemed to be the conclusion -

KIT # 260-4701 HAS 11MM STUDS IN IT. SO THE TORQUE WITH ARP MOLY LUBE

WILL BE 80 FT LBS. DO THIS IN 3 EQUAL STEPS, YOU WANT THE FINAL TO BE AT

LEAST 25 TO 30 FT LBS OF TORQUE. YOU DO NOT USE ANY TORQUE ANGLE WITH

OUR FASTENERS. IF YOU ADD AN EXTRA 90 DEG TORQUE TO THE STUD AFTER TORQUING IT TO 85 FT LBS YOU WILL MOST LIKELY FAIL THE FASTENER.

 

NOW THE STUDS WILL GO IN THE BLOCK HAND TIGHT ONLY NO MORE THAN 1 OR 2

FT LBS OF TORQUE. IF THEY GO INTO WATER YOU NEED TO USE A THREAD SEALER,

IF DRY HOLES THEN USE THE MOLY.

WITH A NEW STUD YOU NEED TO RUN IT THRU THE TORQUE CYCLE 3 TIMES TO

BREAK THE THREADS IN. WITH THE 4th TIME THE FINAL TORQUE.

 

THE KIT YOU HAVE IS A HIGHER GRADE MATERIAL THAN OUR REGULAR STUDS. REGULAR

STUD = 200,000 PSI KIT # 260-4701 = 220,000 PSI.

[MrTris]

Just put them on. You're reading too much, now.

[CloudSeed777]

LOL! Reading too much! Never! I'll probably end up springing for them. Will have an update with pics in the AM (Wednesday)!

[CloudSeed777]

Well, my build hit a snag yesterday when I received a call from the machine shop. They received my pistons, but the pistons did not come with a spec sheet stating clearance tolerances (I was told this is specific to the piston manufacturer and not a Subaru spec). The pistons are Nippon Racing JDM STI OEM pistons, so I now have the task of figuring this out. Any direction here?

 

Parts coming in steadily now. Got just about everything figured out and ordered with the exception of the turbo. Should have that info soon.

 

GATES PERFORMANCE BLUE TIMING KIT:

http://i.imgur.com/XPmUqSq.jpg

 

ACL RACE BEARINGS (STANDARD)

http://i.imgur.com/jZXtxQL.jpg

 

 

Received the GATES TIMING BELT KIT (PERFORMANCE BLUE). Opened it up to check out the much talked about differences between the OEM water pump and the one in the GATES package. The OEM indeed looks like better quality IMO. Here's a comparison:

 

Not much difference in the front, though the OEM cast (right) looks like better quality:

http://i.imgur.com/7npiLAa.jpg

 

The big difference is in the impellar:

 

OEM:

http://i.imgur.com/FyQJWZo.jpg

 

GATES - it just looks cheaper:

http://i.imgur.com/VVqUFcD.jpg

 

Don't forget the Thermostat!

http://i.imgur.com/ac4XDPF.jpg

 

I sprung the $5.00 bucks for a new cabin air filter. Haven't heard many people talk about this. However, when I tore the dash apart to get the old one out, guess what? NO FILTER! It was completely missing. Glad I did this.

 

CABIN AIR FILTER:

http://i.imgur.com/oQKWFeR.jpg

 

 

WHOA! Look at this guy's cabin air filter!

 

STAY TUNED!

[porsche5k]

Love this thread

[MrTris]

You don't want that blue belt --- That blue shit comes off later and gunks up your timing gear. It's not a good long-term-use belt.

 

You install the head studs "hand tight" into the block. I put 'em in and turned that hex key until they were tight. It's the nuts you really wanna pay attention to. ( ) 30-60-90-90, follow the pattern.

[AF_3C2]

I might have missed it, but did you order up a new oil cooler?

 

With as much glitter and sludge you found in your pan, the cooler is going to have a ton of crap in it as well. Best not to take a chance in missing some by cleaning and be doing this all over again......

[Holla]

This is the way to buy a XT/GT these days. Buy one with a blown motor, fix it and drive it for another 100k.

[porsche5k]

Best of luck, what did you pay for this car? Just curious because of the state of the engine.

[Leviman]

This is the way to buy a XT/GT these days. Buy one with a blown motor, fix it and drive it for another 100k.

 

I was going to do this, then I bought one for just as cheap with a great motor .

[neil_k]

how much did you end up paying for the car? knowing the engine was bad. I'm in the exact same boat with mine. no knocking yet but I have sparkly oil. trying to get the dealer to fix right now.

[keenster]

how much did you end up paying for the car? knowing the engine was bad. I'm in the exact same boat with mine. no knocking yet but I have sparkly oil. trying to get the dealer to fix right now.

 

 

Welcom to the forum!

Not sure how skilled you are mechanically. But the dealership is gonna over charge you and run with your money.

I just read on one of these treads that a dealer charged this guy for new 4 cams and they never put them in.

There's a lot of info on here to turn even housewives into a Subaru mechanic. I know it can suck but I think just about anyone will agree doing it yourself is worth it more. But if you have the money and want the dealer to screw you I mean do it for you then that's groovy too. we're all here to help.

 

Anyways maybe you can start your own thread and we can help your situation out. It would be more aimed to you.

[Holla]

Sounds like neil_k might still have some sort of warranty. My engine blew the day I took delivery of my lgt, dealer paid for the rebuild.

 

You're really rolling the dice buying a used lgt, especially from a dealer.

[keenster]

Sounds like neil_k might still have some sort of warranty. My engine blew the day I took delivery of my lgt, dealer paid for the rebuild.

 

You're really rolling the dice buying a used lgt, especially from a dealer.

 

 

Yup mine blew 34 miles later. The day after I got it. Took me two months of fighting with them to pay for it. They wanted me to go half with them.

 

Nothing the Ohio attorney general couldn't help me out with