CloudSeed777 Posted December 30, 2014 Author Share Posted December 30, 2014 Update 12-29-14 I got everything put back in with the exception of the intercooler and the battery. Battery is on the charger, but it didn't hold a charge when I first got the car so I'm hoping I don't need a new one. I can't find the two passenger side bolts that hold the intercooler in place. I'm thinking those were the first fasteners I took off the car and may have set them somewhere before I started tagging and bagging. Will do a search for them in the am. Besides those two items, I'll be ready to fire it up after putting in the ATF, oil, coolant, and priming the turbo. Here's a shot of one of the ground cables I got from JmP6889928! BTW, do yourself a favor and put the passenger side ground-cable on the engine before you put the exhaust manifold on, or you'll be taking it off again to put that stupid cable on. http://i.imgur.com/fD48aAr.jpg Here she is! http://i.imgur.com/AFASL5n.jpg Almost forgot, this came today as well: http://i.imgur.com/un7kQXC.jpg Too busy for fly-bys today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted December 30, 2014 Author Share Posted December 30, 2014 Intercooler fasteners were on the old turbo! http://i.imgur.com/e6igUFZ.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 Ohhhhh Yeahhhhh, the last place you look. They were filed there for safe keeping I bet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted December 30, 2014 Author Share Posted December 30, 2014 Got her primed and ready. http://legacygt.com/forums/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted December 31, 2014 Author Share Posted December 31, 2014 Update 12-30-14 So here's what happened today and what a day it twas: Added all fluids, charged the battery, torqued the crank-pulley, and secured the intercooler. I torqued the crank-pulley by holding a screw-driver against the fly wheel at one of the openings for the fly-wheel to Torque Converter bolts. I did this from the top of the engine from the hole that has the rubber cover. http://i.imgur.com/maFNMbz.jpg http://i.imgur.com/KrJ9f8d.jpg Primed the turbo with a plunger: http://i.imgur.com/TxfLH6R.jpg http://i.imgur.com/RQdU2l6.jpg Added oil, ATF, and Coolant http://i.imgur.com/kYztL9f.jpg Followed my PRE-FLIGHT START UP PROCEDURE FROM A COUPLE PAGES BACK. Cranked the car for a good 45 seconds to get the oil moving. http://i.imgur.com/PV1HX6o.jpg Attached the crank sensor and let her rip, but she didn't rip. She sputtered. Finally got her started (bad fuel from sitting?) and put the RPM's at 2K, but she didn't like to idle. She sounds like she's missing or the timing is off at low RPM - and back-firing. Ran her for 20 minutes at 2000 RPM. No leaks. I tried moving the trans into gear and nothing happened. The indicator moved on the dash from P-R-N-D but no audible sounds from the transmission at all, and the car did not move one iota. It's like the shifter isn't doing anything at all, just going through the motions. I had read somewhere during my research phase that sometimes something to do with the shifter has to be reset??? Any clues? After my 20 min run, when I shut her down I got out of the car and noticed a bright orange glow coming from under the vehicle. The first thing that went through my mind was that it was some sort of warning light under the car for the transmission LOL. When I looked under the car the down pipe and part of the exhaust was red-hot and glowing. This can't be normal?????? By the time I thought to take a pic and got to the camera and turned it on, it had faded considerably, but you can still see the glow here. It was glowing enough that I could see it from outside the car reflecting off the ground like a ricer from the '90's in LA. WTF... http://i.imgur.com/iXaNN6l.jpg WOW, what a day. Any help suggestions would be great right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted December 31, 2014 Share Posted December 31, 2014 You are 100% sure that your cam gears and timing belt is correct? A friend had built his engine along with a "Subaru Expert" and the "Expert" put on one of the cam gears and missed the pin and it was off about 30 degrees. We pulled and put the belt on it about 4 times and just couldn't get it to run at all. He finally took it to a shop and they completely disassembled the engine and found the damaged pulley (DS Intake) and he basically got lucky that no valves hit pistons. Might be worth a disassemble and check. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted December 31, 2014 Share Posted December 31, 2014 As for the transmission, did you put in about 10 quarts? With the converter drained and everything else drained, I believe it holds about 10.5 quarts. I can check and let you know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted December 31, 2014 Author Share Posted December 31, 2014 You are 100% sure that your cam gears and timing belt is correct? A friend had built his engine along with a "Subaru Expert" and the "Expert" put on one of the cam gears and missed the pin and it was off about 30 degrees. We pulled and put the belt on it about 4 times and just couldn't get it to run at all. He finally took it to a shop and they completely disassembled the engine and found the damaged pulley (DS Intake) and he basically got lucky that no valves hit pistons. Might be worth a disassemble and check. I'm pretty confident that it is correct. Double checking would probably be a good idea. All the pulleys were flush when I did the belt, and I'm confident the pins were seated as I could not turn the cams easily once the lobes began to hit the buckets. What about the AVCS solenoids? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted December 31, 2014 Author Share Posted December 31, 2014 As for the transmission, did you put in about 10 quarts? With the converter drained and everything else drained, I believe it holds about 10.5 quarts. I can check and let you know. The trans would only take 4-3/4 qts before it puked fluid out the filler. I know 10 qts didn't come out because the pan that i emptied it into would not hold 10qts and it only filled it 3/4 of the way to the top. Raining today. Where's the love? http://i.imgur.com/ng8GEfi.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted December 31, 2014 Share Posted December 31, 2014 10.5 total after it's You should have had 5 max from the pan drop. More after pan removal then the rest was in the converter. Now that it ran you should try to put the rest or more in, crossing my toes you didn't starve the pump. If that's possible. ACVS is a long shot. You can jump them with 12v and see if they move. Means taking them out again. Check all your sensors are plugged in and no vacuum leaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted January 1, 2015 Share Posted January 1, 2015 No CELs? Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted January 2, 2015 Author Share Posted January 2, 2015 No CELs? I haven't checked them yet, but that's one of the first things I'll be checking out when I get back at it - waiting for weather to clear and taking a break. I'm not familiar with checking them yet, and haven't hooked up the AccessPort I bought yet. Which is better the AP or connecting the diagnostic cable as stated here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/help-reading-cel-codes-105278.html Was talking to my brother about it over dinner this evening, I tried to start it for him to hear, he said it sounded to him like it was running really rich. Because the car had sat for so long (it sat for 4+ mos before I got it, plus the 2 mos since I've had it) I added a bottle of octane-booster fuel additive to the tank before start up. I then realized that there wasn't very much fuel at all in the tank. The fuel gauge reads less than 1/4 tank and reading the bottle of additive it says it treats "up to 21 gallons." Is it possible that the fuel has too much octain-booster in it and the engine doesn't like it? Thinking about draining the tank and adding straight fuel and trying it before I rip out the timing belt/pulleys again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 Read codes with the AP, that's what it's for. I'm guessing your timing is off. Mine sat for the same 4 months, and had no problems on very little gas.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted January 2, 2015 Author Share Posted January 2, 2015 Read codes with the AP, that's what it's for. I'm guessing your timing is off. Mine sat for the same 4 months, and had no problems on very little gas.. Awesome, I will be back at it tomorrow and will check out the AP first thing. As far as the gas goes, my concern is not having just a little gas in the tank, the concern is having too much octane-booster in just a little gas in the tank. The octane-booster treats 21 gallons of gas. The tank capacity on the car is 16 gallons. If you look at my gas gauge in the previous post, it reads less than 1/4 tank which one could assume is somewhere south of 4 gallons of gas. This also might explain why my DP and Catalytic Converter were so hot burning off the gas that didn't burn in combustion? As far as the timing being off, what are the ways this can happen? I double-double-tripled checked the belt/pulley/timing-marks lining up correctly. When I put on the intake cam pulleys, I pushed them on flush (by hand) and checked that the pin was seated by turning the pulley until the cam lobes hit the buckets and wouldn't spin any more. If the pin was not seated, the pulley would continue to turn when the lobes hit the buckets. I put the cam pulley bolts on after I knew the pulley was seated on the pin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted January 2, 2015 Author Share Posted January 2, 2015 So, been taking a break while the weather clears. Hills here in Phoenix area got quite a bit of snow during the storm. Below freezing this am - cold for Phoenix. http://i.imgur.com/aUzfrVy.jpg Hooked up the AccessPort as described: http://i.imgur.com/LjYR2jR.jpg http://i.imgur.com/cNPwCO3.jpg Here are the codes it's giving: http://i.imgur.com/cjyZyCZ.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Dwkp6kU.jpg I reset the CEL then tried to start it gave me the following CELs: P1153: O2 sensor circuit Range/Performance (HIGH) BANK 1 SENSOR 1 P1152: O2 sensor circuit Range/Performance (LOW) BANK 1 SENSOR 1 P2011: Intake Manifold Runner Control Circuit Open Bank 2 P2008: Intake Manifold Runner Control Circuit Open Bank 1 P2021: Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor Switch Circuit Low Bank 2 P2016: Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor Switch Circuit Low Bank 1 Yesterday's Fly-by: http://i.imgur.com/CNI7nFb.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted January 2, 2015 Author Share Posted January 2, 2015 Are 2011, 2008, 2021, 2016 related to the TGV delete? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 Are 2011, 2008, 2021, 2016 related to the TGV delete? Yessir! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 And the others should also be for the UP EGT sensor - You did the UP resistor mod, no? I don't recall now, but, under the "Monitor" heading, there should be a list where you can 'check off' the codes you want it to monitor or not, meaning, it should tell the map/ECU to 'turn off' those codes and just run. Otherwise, you'll be in Safe mode, which, at this point in time, isn't a bad idea, but, will limit you to wg boost. See also about setting ECU cut at about 4500 or less. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted January 2, 2015 Author Share Posted January 2, 2015 And the others should also be for the UP EGT sensor - You did the UP resistor mod, no? I don't recall now, but, under the "Monitor" heading, there should be a list where you can 'check off' the codes you want it to monitor or not, meaning, it should tell the map/ECU to 'turn off' those codes and just run. Otherwise, you'll be in Safe mode, which, at this point in time, isn't a bad idea, but, will limit you to wg boost. See also about setting ECU cut at about 4500 or less. I ended up gutting my stock Up-pipe and put it back on the car with the stock exhaust manifold. The sensor in the UP is still intact and I re-installed it into the UP. Should I just take it out altogether and do the resistor mod? So if all these CELs are related to mods, shouldn't it be giving a CEL for the rough idle or CEL for trouble if the timing is off?????? Also, what is WG boost? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 Don't think that's an option on the AP itself. You need AccessTuner Race Software to make that change. Down load it from Cobb. Just like with your car you have to marry the SW install with your AP. Just found it under edit>Advanced parameters, you'll find all the codes checked likely. Curious though... Did you connect the wiring harness to the TGV again? I'm having trouble with why it's throwing codes unless these opening trigger other items to clear once open. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted January 2, 2015 Author Share Posted January 2, 2015 Don't think that's an option on the AP itself. You need AccessTuner Race Software to make that change. Down load it from Cobb. Just like with your car you have to marry the SW install with your AP. Just found it under edit>Advanced parameters, you'll find all the codes checked likely. Curious though... Did you connect the wiring harness to the TGV again? I'm having trouble with why it's throwing codes unless these opening trigger other items to clear once open. I left the motors and other garbage off of the TGVs and just tucked/zip tied the unconnected wiring harness connectors to the fuel rail. When i read about this before I did it, the write-ups said to just delete those CELs as mentioned above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 Pull the EGT and plug it with the resistor mod. Or drop that code from your map same way. I had a stock EGT on and working for a while. Then it just puked. Lucky I had my resistor mod with me and dropped it in on an over pass turnout. Clear codes and no more BS. Then Dave did me a favor and dropped these codes off the last map rev. What Tris is saying is the boost will be limited since your in limp mode. Probably as low as 5 to 6 lb. Mainly since this is to get the car to a safe spot to repair. I don't' suggest a freeway overpass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted January 2, 2015 Author Share Posted January 2, 2015 I'm still having trouble wrapping my head around no CELs for timing if there is indeed a timing issue???????????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 Ok, so you plugged the holes left behind? At this point since the system is defeated then yes you'll need to pull these CEL off the map. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 I'm still having trouble wrapping my head around no CELs for timing if there is indeed a timing issue???????????? May not be, sounds like you checked it well. Clear those CEL and fix the EGT... Try it again and see what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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