MrTris Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 Somewhere around here, we posted the helpful link to a NASIOC post entitled, AVCS Can Gear Cleaning, which detailed exactly what you just did! In many cases, its necessary, in order to ensure all debris has been flushed from the motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted December 9, 2014 Author Share Posted December 9, 2014 Somewhere around here, we posted the helpful link to a NASIOC post entitled, AVCS Can Gear Cleaning, which detailed exactly what you just did! In many cases, its necessary, in order to ensure all debris has been flushed from the motor. Yes, roger that. I just put the link in the post. If I remember correctly I found the link in your build thread. I bookmarked it like 2 weeks ago because I knew I needed to do this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenster Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 Cool, I'll do this while I sit on fun and joyment I mean unemployment. Thanks for the walk through! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted December 9, 2014 Author Share Posted December 9, 2014 Cool, I'll do this while I sit on fun and joyment I mean unemployment. Thanks for the walk through! Sorry to hear. It happens to the best of us! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenster Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 Sorry to hear. It happens to the best of us! It's all good. It happens when working construction. It's more like vacation. Hibernation. Masturbation. All in my own little nation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted December 9, 2014 Author Share Posted December 9, 2014 it's all good. It happens when working construction. It's more like vacation. Hibernation. Masturbation. All in my own little nation. tmi. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted December 9, 2014 Author Share Posted December 9, 2014 Is there a specific VAG-COM cable that I need to get? The ones I'm seeing on Ebay state that they are for VW, AUDI, SEAT, etc, but no SUBARU. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrMouse Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 http://www.ebay.ca/itm/USB-KKL-VAGCOM-409-VAG-COM-409-1-USB-Port-Cable-with-FT232BL-Chip-Black-HOT-/221308400341?ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:CA:3160 This one worked for me, had to make sure it was the FT232BL chip for flashing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted December 13, 2014 Author Share Posted December 13, 2014 As it turns out, my motor still had both of these little guys in place! That tells me the maintenance most likely wasn't done by Subaru. Would this be a correct assumption? http://i.imgur.com/ez9hWvE.jpg I'll keep one as a memento along with the #2 Piston Rod. http://i.imgur.com/ccdco72.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AF_3C2 Posted December 13, 2014 Share Posted December 13, 2014 Depends on the dealer. Heuberger has a policy of replacing, not removing them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted December 15, 2014 Author Share Posted December 15, 2014 Update 12-13-14 Alright, looks like I'm rounding third here, folks, and in the home stretch. I received my CUSTOM BUILT VF40 TURBO from John Pierce yesterday, along with a set of his custom made ground-strap cables. What a beaut this turbo is. http://i.imgur.com/HRJkLWQ.jpg http://i.imgur.com/LBk9XbM.jpg http://i.imgur.com/dPl5Ph1.jpg If you're interested in one of these turbos, or the ground straps, send a PM to JmP6889928 If you're looking for a custom DD turbo, this is the one. It's built in the image of it's OEM counterpart, but is a completely custom-built turbo, built to be quicker and more reliable as follows: New dual-plane balanced turbine, shaft, and wheel assemblies. Aggressive, extended-tip, custom BILLET wheel capable of 20+ psi (OEM wheels are cast) . Updated and modified journal bearings that virtually eliminate the oil issues the OEM units have. Updated and modified thrust plates. Piston ring seals that are FAR SUPERIOR to the OEM. Interior polishing of compressor backing plate and compressor housing. Blocked gasket surfaces. Units are assembled with synthetic Teflon impregnated grease to ensure lubrication on start-up, and torqued to OEM specs. This turbo is capable of bigger boost than a stock VF40 but utilizes your stock fueling system to it's fullest potential without straining it like a larger turbo will do. The system normally runs about 80% with the stock VF40 on the car, but with a tune and this custom turbo, you can bring injector duty cycles up to 100-110% without having to change to larger injectors or fuel pump. In this photo of the compressor wheel, you can see that it is highly polished, and actually has two sets of fins that are extended beyond what the OEM unit has making it much more efficient with faster spool times. http://i.imgur.com/QqEHNC5.jpg If you're interested in one of these turbos, or the ground straps, send a PM to JmP6889928 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted December 16, 2014 Share Posted December 16, 2014 Very cool. Will be nice to see more results posted with what his Turbo's can do. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted December 18, 2014 Author Share Posted December 18, 2014 Well, look what I forgot to put on. :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: WHAT THE...? http://i.imgur.com/KP0aYAq.jpg :lol: :lol: :lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 Well, look what I forgot to put on. :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: WHAT THE...? http://i.imgur.com/KP0aYAq.jpg :lol: :lol: :lol: Is that the oil line that goes behind the driver's side timing cover? Because I did that, too. Sad to see it, brother. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted December 18, 2014 Author Share Posted December 18, 2014 Is that the oil line that goes behind the driver's side timing cover? Because I did that, too. Sad to see it, brother. No, I don't have my timing crap on yet. This is the one that goes UNDER the weird water coolant pipe that's UNDER the intake manifold and goes from the front of the passenger side head around to the back of the passenger side head to feed the turbo. WOW. I'm seriously considering cutting the line, flange-ing both sides of the cut, and connecting it back together with rubber hose and hose clamps, OR buying some JEGS fittings and hose and doing what I initially thought of doing with a serviceable filter for the turbo. I wasn't going to do the serviceable filter because John said it wasn't necessary with the new turbo. Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 The intake Mani should come off as a one-piece now, so, I guess I don't see the issue of why taking it all down will be such a chore? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 Best do it all correct. You have assembly that's new so it's easy to disassemble and it's out of the car, so best do it all correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted December 18, 2014 Author Share Posted December 18, 2014 Alright. I'll try the all in one piece bit. Will the TGV's come off with the manifold? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 Yes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted December 19, 2014 Author Share Posted December 19, 2014 Banjo Bolts Galore: These are the banjo-bolts that came off of my car. Note the differences: (Not shown - there are two more banjo-bolts used to connect the coolant line to the Turbo.) http://i.imgur.com/6yx60ea.jpg This one connects the metal oil-feed line to the turbo and has a restriction. http://i.imgur.com/bOw3fBR.jpg http://i.imgur.com/e6igUFZ.jpg The longest of the banjo-bolts holds this small hard-line (below) in place. Note that it is the longest of the group because of the size of the pipe's fitting. http://i.imgur.com/GNnvWe3.jpg http://i.imgur.com/ZXoATHU.jpg The dreaded banjo-bolt filter and its banjo-bolt: http://i.imgur.com/KKqwwNF.jpg Be sure to replace all copper crush washers, or re-anneal and clean the old ones (see youtube for tutorial). I bought new ones in this kit from O'Reilly's Auto Store. The kit was $12.00 and comes with several different sized washers including the size you'll need in more than enough quantity. http://i.imgur.com/Fg3b3Za.jpg http://i.imgur.com/pUUH45i.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 Great reference! Important to note -- The banjo for the turbo oil line does indeed only have one hole, and it's tiny. That is an intended restriction. Making it bigger or replacing it with a different banjo bolt serves no benefit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted December 19, 2014 Author Share Posted December 19, 2014 Thought this might be helpful for someone that took the entire thing apart like I did because of the debris in the oil... I've forgotten exactly where that water line connects to and can't find it in my reference photos. Gotta hint? Taking the intake manifold back off as we speak. Great reference! Important to note -- The banjo for the turbo oil line does indeed only have one hole, and it's tiny. That is an intended restriction. Making it bigger or replacing it with a different banjo bolt serves no benefit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted December 21, 2014 Share Posted December 21, 2014 The line you have listed as a water line is, in fact, an oil line. The only two banjo bolts on the entire car that are water line related are the two on the side of the turbo housing and are nothing that you would normally take off during a rebuild. They come off with the turbo as part of the unit, so remember that all the banjo bolts that you have with the exception of the smaller one that goes into the top of the turbo housing, are the same (not counting the two with the bump outs in the top-indicating that those are the bolts with the filters in them and they make no difference where you would put them) and can be interchanged anywhere on the car. Oil banjo bolts on your EJ257 Two banjo bolts on the DS head for the head to OCV line. Two banjo bolts on the PS head for the head to OCV Line and the back of the block for the oil feed to the turbo hard line. One banjo bolt specifically for the top of the turbo with the small .055" hole and only fits in that location. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted December 22, 2014 Author Share Posted December 22, 2014 The line you have listed as a water line is, in fact, an oil line. The only two banjo bolts on the entire car that are water line related are the two on the side of the turbo housing and are nothing that you would normally take off during a rebuild. They come off with the turbo as part of the unit, so remember that all the banjo bolts that you have with the exception of the smaller one that goes into the top of the turbo housing, are the same (not counting the two with the bump outs in the top-indicating that those are the bolts with the filters in them and they make no difference where you would put them) and can be interchanged anywhere on the car. Oil banjo bolts on your EJ257 Two banjo bolts on the DS head for the head to OCV line. Two banjo bolts on the PS head for the head to OCV Line and the back of the block for the oil feed to the turbo hard line. One banjo bolt specifically for the top of the turbo with the small .055" hole and only fits in that location. Good luck. It's pretty amazing how fast that intake mess comes off as a unit once you're familiar with everything. Took about 5 minutes to get it off with the engine on the stand. In the car would take maybe 10 with more difficult reach to some items. I'm still glad I took everything apart though, as it's pristine clean now. I got the PS oil feed pipe on, did not have to loosen anything on the water pipe, was able to finagle it on through the gap. http://i.imgur.com/4Hvdjde.jpg http://i.imgur.com/VaS5EUR.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted December 22, 2014 Author Share Posted December 22, 2014 Since the engine it out and the car has 105K, I thought to pull the torque converter off and drain both it and the transmission. Also pulled the pan of the transmission and cleaned the metal debris from it and the magnet that sits in the bottom of the pan. There was a small pile of metal that came off the magnet (I had already cleaned it off when pic was taken). I used Ultra-Grey gasket maker to put the pan back on the transmission. Torque spec is 3.6ft/lbs which my torque wrench doesn't go that low. http://i.imgur.com/b81l8aB.jpg http://i.imgur.com/N93K4ep.jpg Like new with brand new trans fluid: http://i.imgur.com/skPCFTU.jpg Don't forget to bag the snout while you have it apart. http://i.imgur.com/B6eUO9S.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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