MrTris Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 Yup, that black piece is the hardline from the oil cooler. There's elbows for it. TGV plugs just kinda hang out. No biggie. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted December 2, 2014 Author Share Posted December 2, 2014 So it looks like by going with the 11mm pump, the pipe that mounts to it in the above post - its mount bracket fit is different than the stock 10mm - that's part of the reason I could not figure out where it went. I'll have to grind part of the pipe's mount bracket to get it to sit flush, otherwise it should work. http://i.imgur.com/GkY5yi5.jpg The right part of the mount bracket prevents the bracket from sitting flush on the 11mm pump - I'll grind that side down flush. http://i.imgur.com/kRoWUiF.jpg Any other surprises with the 11mm pump? Here's the result: http://i.imgur.com/4SbUjpX.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Mvpm1cH.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 No grinding! It works just fine! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted December 2, 2014 Author Share Posted December 2, 2014 No grinding! It works just fine! Oh. LOL see above! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenster Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 Nah that fabrication works. Thanks for that tip. I order the STI 11mm pump. So that little advice will help my build. I also bead blasted and painted my hardline. That rusty pic is pre paint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 I managed to attach the coolant crossover (yes, there are two pieces we call "Coolant Crossover", used contextually based on location of engine we're talking about) to the 11mm pump with no modification. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted December 2, 2014 Author Share Posted December 2, 2014 Nah that fabrication works. Thanks for that tip. I order the STI 11mm pump. So that little advice will help my build. I also bead blasted and painted my hardline. That rusty pic is pre paint. I finished mine off with a squirt of paint as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted December 2, 2014 Author Share Posted December 2, 2014 I managed to attach the coolant crossover (yes, there are two pieces we call "Coolant Crossover", used contextually based on location of engine we're talking about) to the 11mm pump with no modification. Did it squish the bracket? All the black metal pipes are water, correct? I assume that the black plastic formed pipe is vacuum? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted December 2, 2014 Author Share Posted December 2, 2014 How did you clean all your metal oil lines? I'm kind of leery of re-using them, but I'm sure they are pretty-penny to replace. I don't have a real "parts cleaner" here at the house. Best thing I have is a large industrial stainless steel sink in the garage. I soaked them in gas, but I don't think that's good enough after seeing the amount of debris that went through my engine. Any thoughts? I'm doing this today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 How did you clean all your metal oil lines? I'm kind of leery of re-using them, but I'm sure they are pretty-penny to replace. I don't have a real "parts cleaner" here at the house. Best thing I have is a large industrial stainless steel sink in the garage. I soaked them in gas, but I don't think that's good enough after seeing the amount of debris that went through my engine. Any thoughts? I'm doing this today. I hosed all mine down with Brakekleen and compressed air. Multiple times. Gas works, too. Yes, the water lines are the hardlines. Formed plastic is vacuum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted December 3, 2014 Author Share Posted December 3, 2014 Alright. I gotta admit this hose/vacuum/intake thing is getting old - and fast. I came across these two odd sized bolts in my bag labeled "intake manifold" The two bolts on the left are different than any of the others - the round, hex is self explanatory, but the middle one is a longer 12mm (the one on the right is the size of all the other 12mm bolts I've found). Any ideas where these guys go? http://i.imgur.com/SCLkcDu.jpg Today's fly-by: http://i.imgur.com/Ylm33c7.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted December 3, 2014 Share Posted December 3, 2014 The round hex goes on the turbo inlet. Holds the boost control solenoid, IIRC. The other two. . You'll probably find a use for. Believe it or not, you won't replace all of the bolts you took out of the damn thing, and it'll get by just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted December 3, 2014 Author Share Posted December 3, 2014 The round hex goes on the turbo inlet. Holds the boost control solenoid, IIRC. The other two. . You'll probably find a use for. Believe it or not, you won't replace all of the bolts you took out of the damn thing, and it'll get by just fine. Thanks! The longer 12mm is for the wiring harness bracket on the driver's side aft of the engine. As stated by MrTris, the big hex is for the stock turbo inlet which sandwiches between the bracket holding elec plugs on the front just above the inlet. http://i.imgur.com/PrIioBQ.jpg http://i.imgur.com/jWrdSrx.jpg The only other one off fastener that wasn't immediately obvious was a longer 10mm bolt that fastens the PCV(?) pipe to the intake manifold - it's longer to accommodate the plastic tab on the hose. http://i.imgur.com/miz3Yu9.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted December 5, 2014 Author Share Posted December 5, 2014 The cylinder heads on my engine had obvious wear on the journals, etc from all the crap that went through the oil. Machine shop polished the cams/journals as best they could keeping them in spec, and were confident that they could be run, but would not advise using them on a higher HP build. How does one go about getting new heads for these engines? There seems to be some debate that a STI head will bolt on that there major differences in the internals/valves, etc. Any specifics in the casting numbers - ie B25 I can look for? I'm having second thoughts on running these things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted December 5, 2014 Share Posted December 5, 2014 The cylinder heads on my engine had obvious wear on the journals, etc from all the crap that went through the oil. Machine shop polished the cams/journals as best they could keeping them in spec, and were confident that they could be run, but would not advise using them on a higher HP build. How does one go about getting new heads for these engines? There seems to be some debate that a STI head will bolt on that there major differences in the internals/valves, etc. Any specifics in the casting numbers - ie B25 I can look for? I'm having second thoughts on running these things. You need B or D25 heads -- either will work. The difference is in the W25 heads, which are the STI Dual AVCS, whereas B and D iterations are only single AVCS without and with airpump, respectively. The history is this: B25 heads on 05-06 LGTs and 04-06 STI with a catted UP. 07+ has catless UP, but the addition of airpumps on the heads, hence the different letter, D. Will need either the airpumps, or the block-off plates. W25 heads are on the 07+ STI and have dual AVCS (in/ex) plus the airpump. Your engine wiring and electronics are not compatible with dual AVCS, hence, why you're limited to B or D25 heads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted December 5, 2014 Author Share Posted December 5, 2014 Anyone have any pics or references for installing the silicone hose kits? Also, how did you attach your Perrin Turbo inlet to the PCV sensor on the rear most attach point???? Did you have to mod the sensor or tube to get it to attach? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted December 6, 2014 Author Share Posted December 6, 2014 I've read about the Blue "T" fitting coming undone. I remedied this by taking a knife and cutting small "barbs" in the fitting and gnarling it up a bit to help hold the hoses in place. http://i.imgur.com/ABWoo3O.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Iw7bgnb.jpg You can help old dried hose off of a fitting by using a lighter to heat it up, it will come right off: http://i.imgur.com/52VOF33.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted December 6, 2014 Author Share Posted December 6, 2014 Anyone running a turbo blanket rather than the stock heat shield? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnusonsubie Posted December 6, 2014 Share Posted December 6, 2014 Anyone running a turbo blanket rather than the stock heat shield? I am. I am going to modify my heat shield to fit over it and the downpipe. It does help keep temps down quite a bit 2005 Vader Wagon Material Tests on Ringland Failure Piston I should have held off and purchased a wagon instead of the spec.B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted December 6, 2014 Author Share Posted December 6, 2014 I am. I am going to modify my heat shield to fit over it and the downpipe. It does help keep temps down quite a bit Are you going to use the heat shield AND blanket because the blanket alone is too hot? The heat shield is a PITA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted December 6, 2014 Share Posted December 6, 2014 I have a heat shield and blanket. the after market one is nice because it attaches with 3 bolts instead of the 10 the stock one had on. The blanket on it's own was fine, I have the heat shield because I don't know it looks cool? My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnusonsubie Posted December 6, 2014 Share Posted December 6, 2014 Are you going to use the heat shield AND blanket because the blanket alone is too hot? The heat shield is a PITA. I'm going to use both and only use a few of the mounting bolts from the stock heatshield 2005 Vader Wagon Material Tests on Ringland Failure Piston I should have held off and purchased a wagon instead of the spec.B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted December 6, 2014 Author Share Posted December 6, 2014 Meh not many will see the engine bay. The blanket looks more "racecar" IMO. I have a heat shield and blanket. the after market one is nice because it attaches with 3 bolts instead of the 10 the stock one had on. The blanket on it's own was fine, I have the heat shield because I don't know it looks cool? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted December 6, 2014 Author Share Posted December 6, 2014 That's actually a good idea. 10 bolts was a little excessive. I'm going to use both and only use a few of the mounting bolts from the stock heatshield Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted December 9, 2014 Author Share Posted December 9, 2014 AVCS Cam Pulleys Took apart and cleaned the AVCS Cam Pulleys today. Full instructions can be found over at NAUSIOC: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2441411&highlight=avcs+cleaning To do this you need a: FIVE (5) POINT "Security" Torx bit #T30. NAPA Auto stocks these. http://i.imgur.com/Dq30rDi.jpg These bolts are in there pretty tight. To hold the pulleys in place while I torqued on them with the wrench and cheater bar, I clamped my old timing belt to my work bench with a vice-grip. http://i.imgur.com/7n0AlbU.jpg Spray Brakecleen in all the little holes and passages. Be sure to work the valve up and down several times while squirting in the hole. http://i.imgur.com/0FUmJCI.jpg Nice and clean of debris: http://i.imgur.com/KOffURX.jpg Today's fly by: http://i.imgur.com/y2tHuIg.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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