CloudSeed777 Posted January 10, 2015 Author Share Posted January 10, 2015 Update 01/10/15 Thanks to everyone for the info. I pulled the engine again yesterday - took me 3 hours by myself opposed to the nearly 3 days it took me the first time around with help getting it out! Pulled valve covers - all cams/caps were in their proper placement. Funny how paranoid you can get about this stuff. However, at TDC, the DS intake valve appeared to be off by a tooth??? WTAF? When I put it back on I will count teeth instead of going by markings (read that this is better). I Ordered new (used out of a '14 STI with 6k miles off Ebay - $89/piece) AVCS pulleys, they'll be here Monday... Also figured out why my "transmission" would only take 4 qts. I was filling the trans-axle, not the transmission. W-T-F, OVER???????? Will have to drain it now, and fill the transmission. Hope running it for the short time I did in PARK didn't bugger it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted January 10, 2015 Author Share Posted January 10, 2015 Might be able to see it if the valve covers are removed and the cams are taken out. Ideally, need to get the cams out. Yes, can clearly see them with the covers off. I didn't realize that the markings that I had seen on the cams indicated location. Good to know for next time. Indicated by L-I / L-EX, R-I / R-EX with some numbers. Same goes with the cam-caps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AF_3C2 Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 Congrats on finding the issue- least now you aren't stuck in the "WTF!!" land banging your head against the wall..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted January 11, 2015 Author Share Posted January 11, 2015 Congrats on finding the issue- least now you aren't stuck in the "WTF!!" land banging your head against the wall..... Hopefully, should be smooth sailing getting the motor back in and trans filled up. When I did the timing belt (both times) all the marks were lined up. What's up with that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted January 12, 2015 Author Share Posted January 12, 2015 Went over the engine on the stand tonight with a flashlight. Found a seeping oil leak from the block breather tube that hooks to the black metal pipe under the IM. It's leaking from the base of the shaped hose - looks like a split, so will replace. Used this trick to disconnect the fuel lines when I pulled the engine: Use a pen cap to disconnect the fuel connections. There's a tool that you can buy that does this, but I didn't have one and didn't want to make a trip to parts store to buy one. I used an old Sharpie cap, which worked really well. Cut the end of the cap so the hole is roughly the dia of the metal fuel line. http://i.imgur.com/Dc7GjEF.jpg Then Make a cut the length of the cap so it has a split that you can put it on the fuel line. http://i.imgur.com/TxaCM85.jpg Slip the cap over the metal line, push it till it is firm against the connector, then push the connector toward the cap to open the teeth, then pull it back off the line. Works like a champ with very little effort. http://i.imgur.com/VfBmVOS.jpg http://i.imgur.com/qhqizx0.jpg Fly-by action: http://i.imgur.com/pxoe4HD.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted January 13, 2015 Author Share Posted January 13, 2015 Update 01/13/2015 I received the new AVCS pulleys earlier than expected, so will be throwing them on and counting teeth today. These AVCS pulleys came off a brand new WRX with 6k miles. Hope to get the new "S" vacuum pipe before the engine goes back in, probably not a fun one to replace with the engine in the car. http://i.imgur.com/FYcx1rT.jpg Found another seeping leak. The banjo-bolt that feeds the turbo. All others look great. I did torque it down twice (took it off to prime the turbo before start). So, will replace copper gaskets with new. http://i.imgur.com/eb4gPuM.jpg One of the spark plug connects is missing the little tab that clicks it in place. There was a zip-tie on it when I tore down the engine. Bent the metal connection prongs inside each pack as advised by JmP6889928 in the phone call, and zip-tied it back up. http://i.imgur.com/Rn9Vv1I.jpg Commute to work was a wet one yesterday. Arrived with a nice racing stripe, mud on my glasses, and grit in my teeth. And though I've enjoyed the 28mile round trip, the 25lbs I've lost, and turning my first bike commute of 1hour 10minutes into a 45 minute race, here's to hoping it's one of my last 'have to ride the bike' commutes before the car is done. http://i.imgur.com/1Xhsx9w.jpg Weird fly-by at my brother's house over the holidays. Hope to do that one day. http://i.imgur.com/b7lJ2tT.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted January 13, 2015 Author Share Posted January 13, 2015 So. 3rd go at timing belt.......yeeeha. Before putting the belt on I wiped down all the pulleys / idlers / and the belt with acetone to make sure there was no oil on them from when the AVCS pulley caps puked out oil when I took them off. That blue crap comes right off the Gates belt: http://i.imgur.com/0fwOfX6.jpg So here's the new pulleys and belt installed.....................again. Here's proof I've lined everything up correctly. Please chime in if you think it's off. I've read the marks are not "exactly" going to line up. http://i.imgur.com/1YXiTYT.jpg TDC: http://i.imgur.com/r5UWW6k.jpg Driver Side (left) intake cam: http://i.imgur.com/ZwAKXGJ.jpg Driver side (left) exhaust cam: http://i.imgur.com/J01omsR.jpg Driver side (left) intake/exhaust: http://i.imgur.com/EdkNuxg.jpg Passenger side Exhaust: http://i.imgur.com/dGfOu6L.jpg Passenger side Intake: http://i.imgur.com/sCmQAZB.jpg After Four - count them 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - revolutions of the timing belt: TDC: http://i.imgur.com/lFc3ylv.jpg Driver side intake cam: http://i.imgur.com/DNrC6gj.jpg Driver side exhaust cam: http://i.imgur.com/omMZ2sy.jpg Passenger Exhaust cam: http://i.imgur.com/XpmYvtA.jpg Passenger Intake cam: http://i.imgur.com/Piew2Ya.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 Looks like you have it there. On the turbo banjo bolt, it looks like there is no copper gasket on the bottom between the feed line banjo fitting and turbo housing. That would most likely be the seep. Keep going....I think you're almost there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted January 14, 2015 Author Share Posted January 14, 2015 Looks like you have it there. On the turbo banjo bolt, it looks like there is no copper gasket on the bottom between the feed line banjo fitting and turbo housing. That would most likely be the seep. Keep going....I think you're almost there. Thanks John! The copper gasket is there, it's just a bit smaller than the one I put on top from that copper gasket kit I bought. The ones I put back on match the bigger one on top. If one was going to leak, that's the one I would prefer for sure as it's easy to get to. Ordered new spark-plugs after reading how fragile the NGK iridiums (s) are. I wire brushed the heck out of the ones that were on the car. Will be waiting for those until I put the engine back in, I'm not doing another 2 hour spark plug job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 Thanks John! The copper gasket is there, it's just a bit smaller than the one I put on top from that copper gasket kit I bought. The ones I put back on match the bigger one on top. If one was going to leak, that's the one I would prefer for sure as it's easy to get to. Ordered new spark-plugs after reading how fragile the NGK iridiums (s) are. I wire brushed the heck out of the ones that were on the car. Will be waiting for those until I put the engine back in, I'm not doing another 2 hour spark plug job. Yeah, you're gonna want to install them while the engine is out of the car. Why hassle yourself the other way? Shit, since the plugs last 60k, and I plan on doing a shortblock almost about that time, I may never do plugs again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 Not to stall you but there are repair kits for the coil pack connector. It comes with new ends as well. Main thing is it has the boots that do break. Infamous Performance is where I picked mine up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted January 14, 2015 Author Share Posted January 14, 2015 Yeah, you're gonna want to install them while the engine is out of the car. Why hassle yourself the other way? Shit, since the plugs last 60k, and I plan on doing a shortblock almost about that time, I may never do plugs again! Yeah definitely. I did it once already, not doing that one again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted January 14, 2015 Author Share Posted January 14, 2015 Not to stall you but there are repair kits for the coil pack connector. It comes with new ends as well. Main thing is it has the boots that do break. Infamous Performance is where I picked mine up. JmP actually told me about those as well. Something to this effect? http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NTUzWDkyMg==/z/kpUAAOSwF1dUTRUo/$_57.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 Yep. Main thing is you can just swap the connectors to the new boot since your harness is probably fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted January 14, 2015 Author Share Posted January 14, 2015 So, I ended up taking the intake manifold off of the engine to get to that stupid "S" pipe. In doing so I've found TWO more split hoses - both being cylinder head breather hoses. The rubber of most all the shaped hoses are really hard. Looks like I'll be replacing more. At any rate, could these split hoses have caused the rough idle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 Get msprank's Venair Hose Kit! (See the Group Buy forum) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted January 15, 2015 Author Share Posted January 15, 2015 Get msprank's Venair Hose Kit! (See the Group Buy forum) Is there a short-block group-buy? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 Did you remove the front banjo filter ? When checking timing marks, don't worry about the marks on the belt, they mean nothing. The marks on the dears must line up every time they are supposed to. The belt changes position every time around. You do have the service manual, right ? It's in there. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightmaresmk Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 What broke? Get back to work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted January 15, 2015 Author Share Posted January 15, 2015 What broke? Get back to work. The gold is a lie! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted January 15, 2015 Author Share Posted January 15, 2015 Did you remove the front banjo filter ? When checking timing marks, don't worry about the marks on the belt, they mean nothing. The marks on the dears must line up every time they are supposed to. The belt changes position every time around. You do have the service manual, right ? It's in there. I do. I looked in the manual again to double check and it says to line up the marks on the belt with the marks on the sprockets (once the sprockets are properly aligned). Once this is done it says to pull the pin and let the spoon fly. I do not see anything in the manual referencing a way to check the timing belt install by checking the pulley marks OR the belt marks. It says pull the pin once everything is aligned and that's it, that I could see. So if I understand you correctly, what I should have observed and taken pics of is the marks on the sprockets lining up after turning the belt a couple revolutions instead of checking the belt marks against the timing cover indents. http://i.imgur.com/MRAVeSr.gifv http://i.imgur.com/0EkCPpJ.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 The belt lines are to make sure that you are, in fact, lined up. You can line up the marks on the pulleys as close as you can but have the possibility of being off a tooth when it's all said and done. If you line up each mark with each mark to start with, then the cam gears will be correct even if they don't look exactly perfect. The best thing to do is AFTER you have it all lined up as it should be, keep rotating the engine until the marks finally line up again (takes about a dozen complete revolutions or so) and then mark the two pulleys where they come together in the middle carefully so that you have an exact line. Use something like yellow or orange so it's easy to see and you know it's your mark. Do the same on the crank pulley and I even painted the scale on my timing cover with a paint pen, so I could see it easily when I wanted to. Good luck my friend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 I have a question the banjo bolts for the coolant line to the turbo are they the same size regardless of turbo size? I'm having a issue where the replacement turbo has smaller banjo bolt size and I can't get them to thread in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 I have a question the banjo bolts for the coolant line to the turbo are they the same size regardless of turbo size? I'm having a issue where the replacement turbo has smaller banjo bolt size and I can't get them to thread in. No. The top banjo bolt on the turbo (has one tiny hole in it, instead of two 'pass through' larger diameter holes on the others) is intentionally restrictive. If the one you're trying to put in is too big, you've got others in the wrong places. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 No. The top banjo bolt on the turbo (has one tiny hole in it, instead of two 'pass through' larger diameter holes on the others) is intentionally restrictive. If the one you're trying to put in is too big, you've got others in the wrong places. You don't understand.. I wish I took a picture of it but I had both of them on the bench and you can see just by looking at it that the bolt for the new turbo is smaller in diameter then the old one for the coolant line.. I know which is which it's pretty hard to screw up.. I already put the oil return on and when I went to go to the coolant line that's when I saw the issue. The only thing I can think of is hope they make a smaller banjo bolt or tap it to the stock size which might be hard or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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