MrTris Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 Wastegate (WG) boost = about 8.9psi on these cars. You can leave it, if you like, though, I haven't heard of anyone doing so. If you take it out, you'll have to search for a bung plug, though. Sounds like more trouble than it's worth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted January 2, 2015 Author Share Posted January 2, 2015 Ok, so you plugged the holes left behind? At this point since the system is defeated then yes you'll need to pull these CEL off the map. Yes, threaded the holes and plugged them with a bolt and JB-Weld. http://i.imgur.com/6DgM4Tc.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted January 2, 2015 Author Share Posted January 2, 2015 Wastegate (WG) boost = about 8.9psi on these cars. You can leave it, if you like, though, I haven't heard of anyone doing so. If you take it out, you'll have to search for a bung plug, though. Sounds like more trouble than it's worth. The only think I would be worried about is the interior part of the sensor breaking off and getting sucked into the turbo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 I've seen folks just cut the bar out and leave the rest. You've plugged it and removed the HW... So delete codes is your only option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted January 2, 2015 Author Share Posted January 2, 2015 Wastegate (WG) boost = about 8.9psi on these cars. You can leave it, if you like, though, I haven't heard of anyone doing so. If you take it out, you'll have to search for a bung plug, though. Sounds like more trouble than it's worth. Will the AP tell me if the car is in "limp" mode? I don't see anything to indicate that it is. Also, when I installed the AP, I loaded the "stage 1" tune, is this the correct map to run? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 You'll need the ACN91 map. Because our Gas sucks. The car will tell you if in limp mode by the check engine light and cruise control light flashing on your dash board. EDIT: BTW get yourself a tune after this pig is running. I recommend etune by Cryo Tune... There may be others in your area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted January 2, 2015 Author Share Posted January 2, 2015 You'll need the ACN91 map. Because our Gas sucks. The car will tell you if in limp mode by the check engine light and cruise control light flashing on your dash board. EDIT: BTW get yourself a tune after this pig is running. I recommend etune by Cryo Tune... There may be others in your area. Roger that on the tune. The car does not appear to be in "limp" mode - no flashing cruise light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted January 2, 2015 Author Share Posted January 2, 2015 Now getting another CEL: P1518: Starter Switch Circuit - Low Input When I turn the ignition key to the "on" position, there is an audible "click" coming from the engine bay, followed by the radiator fans turning on then off followed by the "click" and repeat. Does this as long as the key is in the "on" position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 Unplug the green connectors? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted January 5, 2015 Author Share Posted January 5, 2015 Ok, so unplugged the green connectors - fixed fan going on and off. Filled up the tank with fresh gas. Car starts now and idles, though still running a bit rough and back-firing off rev. Remedied the EGT error with the 2.2k ohm / .5 watt resistor fix. That code no longer shows up in AP. Still trying to get the TGV codes remedied. The car is indeed in "limp" mode as noted by the flashing "cruise" light. Will it come out of "limp" mode on its own, or is there something that has to be done once no codes are flashing? http://i.imgur.com/mjM6nhB.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 It will always go into imp mode once the CEL alerts the ECU. Once you clear the codes it will clear the limp mode. 4 or 6 restarts will clear limp mode as well. Unless the codes are still popping up. Did you have the chance to disable the TGV CEL with the Race SW? This is the only way your going to keep these CEL clear now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted January 6, 2015 Author Share Posted January 6, 2015 It will always go into imp mode once the CEL alerts the ECU. Once you clear the codes it will clear the limp mode. 4 or 6 restarts will clear limp mode as well. Unless the codes are still popping up. Did you have the chance to disable the TGV CEL with the Race SW? This is the only way your going to keep these CEL clear now. DL'd the AccessTuner Race Software and installed it. Took laptop to car and tried to "connect to ECU". Gave the following error: "Cable connected but unable to find ECU. Recycle ignition and try again." Tried many times with no love. Will try and re-install the software. Back when the tow guy delivered the vehicle, the battery was dead and I asked them not to start the car anymore because of the rod-knock. To move the car they shifted the car into neutral using the shifter lock release under the little tab next to the shifter. Today while the car was running I shifted the car after depressing the shifter lock. The car went into neutral, but did nothing at D or R. After doing that I'm getting a CEL P0700 which has something to do with a MIL from the trans control unit. This just keeps getting better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 At this point you may need to talk to Cobb. The ECU/AP marriage may have been corrupted some how. Did you make the changes in the map and reload it on the AP? I got nothin for the TCU issue. Other than I think it's freeSSM that can get you into there for a code clear. But then thats using a laptop and Tactrix cable. Correct me if I'm off base guys. Did you have to press the lock release the first time you started it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted January 6, 2015 Author Share Posted January 6, 2015 At this point you may need to talk to Cobb. The ECU/AP marriage may have been corrupted some how. Did you make the changes in the map and reload it on the AP? I got nothin for the TCU issue. Other than I think it's freeSSM that can get you into there for a code clear. But then thats using a laptop and Tactrix cable. Correct me if I'm off base guys. Did you have to press the lock release the first time you started it? I thought maybe something like that was happening so I uninstalled the AccessPort and re-installed it. After doing this, ACCESSTuner (AT) still could not find the ECU. As far as making changes to the MAP in AccessTuner (AT), I copied the MAP over to my laptop, but when I try to open it in AT i get the following error: "Unable to load MAP file. Invalid 'BASE MAP' file. Please verify vehicle and vendor of MAP file. (5:1209)" When I start AccessTuner the vehicle is "Subaru Legacy GT 2005 AT" if that makes a difference from a OBXT. http://i.imgur.com/YUvl6f2.jpg I used the shifter lock release once during the build to move the trans into neutral so I could re-position the car. Today was the first time I used it since the engine was back in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 Did it come back and say to unplug the test cables? It's been a few months for me messing with my AP. I'm not remembering what the splash screen would say. Call Cobb for some assistance on this. They may have some better advice on this than some dude on the interwebs (me). I still have nothing on the transmission. Hopefully someone else may. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted January 6, 2015 Author Share Posted January 6, 2015 Did it come back and say to unplug the test cables? It's been a few months for me messing with my AP. I'm not remembering what the splash screen would say. Call Cobb for some assistance on this. They may have some better advice on this than some dude on the interwebs (me). I still have nothing on the transmission. Hopefully someone else may. Ya, I unplugged them. From what I read on the trans so far, the CEL may just need to be reset unless it's a major booboo with the valve body or something. As stated in a previous post I read during research phase that something to do with the shifter after using the shifter unlock tab has to be reset. Hopefully that's all it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted January 6, 2015 Author Share Posted January 6, 2015 Weird hose... Anybody know what this hose is? I went through the engine vacuum lines yesterday double checking everything to make sure there were no hoses disconnected/leaks. In my "left-over/old parts box" was this weird hose - it's like a hose within a hose. I have the following reference photo from my tear down, but it is hard to see exactly where it goes. Anyone know where this thing goes? Is it special because of the double size and causing a problem because I'm assuming I replaced it with silicone hose. http://i.imgur.com/RK1FTbo.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted January 6, 2015 Moderators Share Posted January 6, 2015 That looks like the boost control hose that goes over to the turbo. Don't remember if that one is for the compressor or the wastegate. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted January 7, 2015 Author Share Posted January 7, 2015 That looks like the boost control hose that goes over to the turbo. Don't remember if that one is for the compressor or the wastegate. Thanks for the reply. That one ended up being in place, it was a similar hose that plugs into the DS of the intake manifold that I had found, which plugs into a diaphragm looking thing under the fuel lines. I got the Race software squared away and TGV codes deleted. They had sent me the 2005.5 car install instead of 2005. Took off the timing belt today and double checked that the cam pulleys were installed correctly, and they are. Put the mess back together and the car still runs really rough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 Time to start pulling some logs man. Good to hear you sorted the SW BS. BMB is 100% correct. This is the reduced hose to the T from the boost controller. Always figured that reducer would be a good fitting to add in the Turkey Lord bag of tricks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted January 9, 2015 Author Share Posted January 9, 2015 I talked with JmP6889928 at length this evening on the phone about my build and the trouble I'm having. I found out that he lost his job on Monday with no warning. He's thinking that while he is looking for another job, he will do the custom turbo builds while in limbo (like the one I bought from him - see a couple pages back for details). Let's get together and send him some support if you're able. I'll be sending out my two turbo cores to him tomorrow which will hopefully help him get some more custom builds out. If you have a VF40 that you took off your car that's just sitting around, consider sending it to John to keep him going! About my build. The car runs like it's firing on only two cylinders, but it's throwing no codes with the exception of one time - miss-fire codes on all cylinders after coming off of a 2500rpm rev to idle. The car it idles really rough with no codes. JmP and I came to the conclusion that I should get a new set of AVCS pulleys for it. I took the originals apart and cleaned them thoroughly, but am thinking they should be replaced because the internal gasket (cannot be purchased) on one of them ripped while taking it apart and I used Ultra Grey to make a new gasket for it. It's not leaking, but probably better to replace than hope it doesn't. Another thought i had is if the cams could have gotten switched around somehow (right/left) - not likely but possible, so if there's an easy way to tell if I have the correct cams in each head, let me know. From pictures I've looked at of these cams online, it looks like the cams are near identical with the exception of the position of the pin/holes in the face of the cams that mate with the holes in the AVCS gears are different. If anyone can verify this for me or tell me how I can verify that I have the correct cams in each side this would check this thought off the list of possibilities why the car won't run correctly. New AVCS pulleys have been ordered, but while waiting for them to arrive I'm seriously considering pulling the engine again to double-check the cams unless there's an easier way to do it. I'm not even sure the car would run at all with cams switched, just a troubleshooting thought I had to eliminate the possibility. Here's a reference pic of my engine after i installed the heads - you can see the face of the cams here: http://i.imgur.com/7aobdVb.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 Cams are marked, LH int, RH exh, etc. Near the face, on the shaft itself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted January 9, 2015 Author Share Posted January 9, 2015 Cams are marked, LH int, RH exh, etc. Near the face, on the shaft itself. Ok, so if i pull off the AVCS gear I should be able to see that, or is the cam-seal need to be removed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 Might be able to see it if the valve covers are removed and the cams are taken out. Ideally, need to get the cams out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BSDGuyShawn Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 I will be rebuilding my 05 OBXT Limited soon - Subscribing. Great writeup, I love it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.