neil_k Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 Yea I have a warranty. Got the car 2 weeks ago then it started to act weird a low throttle jerky slow to spool. I drained the oil and found metal in it. I bought it from a bmw dealer they have a two year powertrain warranty with used cars. The car is immaculate zero damage with a new clutch shocks and brakes. They are working with me on this just gotta keep them from taking short cuts on the fix. Car needs a short block and a new turbo at a minimum. I just wanted a value of a car with broken motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 Read my click here link and MrTris threads in his sig'. There are other threads in the stickys too. They need to replace, turbo oil cooler oil pump new OEM short block is cheaper then rebuilding May be a tmic if the turbo was that bad to put metal into it. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darklegend06 Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 Looking forward to the outcome. Good luck with the build. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted November 24, 2014 Author Share Posted November 24, 2014 Update 11/24/2014 To answer some questions. I paid 4k for the car. It has 105K miles. The interior/exterior is in primo shape. Parts arrivals have filled up the better part of the kitchen table. I did replace the OIL PAN & OIL COOLER. I went with the ARP head bolts. The rest of my build parts list will be updated in my original post with part numbers, cost, and where I got them when all is said and done. http://i.imgur.com/752sfKW.jpg I did deviated from some of the popular pieces on my build to save some dough. I'm on a budget, yo! Most notably the silicone parts. I bought a Godspeed Turbo Inlet for $62 shipped (read the reviews on Amazon). On the hose kit I went with Upgr8. This kit has 11 hoses and comes with new hose clamps for $199.00. It does not have the BPV Return hose, but I'll use the stock unit as it's in great shape (saving $67). I bought 25 feet of silicone hose in 3mm, 5mm, 8mm to finish off the kit. http://i.imgur.com/SjOxaGF.jpg http://i.imgur.com/BiNkV1a.jpg FINALLY got the block halves and heads back from Machine Shop. http://i.imgur.com/BhS0tZ0.jpg http://i.imgur.com/EPQG0zI.jpg Been busy doing the rest of the TGV's and started teh grille action. Found some really cool mesh for the grille on ebay. http://i.imgur.com/8WyRTgt.jpg http://i.imgur.com/gjC6ZVN.jpg Spec'd the new crank and installed bearings/connecting rods. http://i.imgur.com/azjwhS9.jpg PRO-TIP: Use the "other box" from the engine hoist as a clean place to put your engine together. PRO-TIP: If your bores rust between getting the halves together use steel-wool and oil to clean it up. (I power-washed my engine halves after getting them back from Machine Shop) Installed mains, installed crank and water/oil sealers, gouped it up with Ultra Grey and hammered the halves together. http://i.imgur.com/Qp8N925.jpg http://i.imgur.com/8ticM8P.jpg http://i.imgur.com/6iBZJAj.jpg http://i.imgur.com/MNBHPFq.jpg Dug out the pistons and rings from teh heap on the kitchen table and I'm now checking ring gap, piston clearance, etc. Looks like some grinding for proper gap is in order on a few of them. http://i.imgur.com/4t1El5s.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Xtzu5Di.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Z43G3R3.jpg http://i.imgur.com/CuUSCVm.jpg All the while some fly-by's and cool sunsets. http://i.imgur.com/F23b2Ee.jpg http://i.imgur.com/obImRLZ.jpg STAY TUNED>>>>> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenster Posted November 24, 2014 Share Posted November 24, 2014 This thread kicks ass. Keep it up dude. I think I order the wrong sized silicone hoses or my car... I got 4mm and 6mm. I know I have a sub'do threAd around here somewhere.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted November 24, 2014 Share Posted November 24, 2014 This thread kicks ass. Keep it up dude. I think I order the wrong sized silicone hoses or my car... I got 4mm and 6mm. I know I have a sub'do threAd around here somewhere.... Venair Group Buy from Infamous. In the Group Buy subforums. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted November 25, 2014 Author Share Posted November 25, 2014 I now have a SHORT BLOCK! Pistons are in. Those wrist pins tho. http://i.imgur.com/mS5YX3K.jpg http://i.imgur.com/MGuM8kA.jpg PRO-TIP: In all of the videos that I've seen about putting the pistons in the block, as far as I remember no one has mentioned that you put the WRIST-PIN RETAINER CLIP in the interior side of the piston BEFORE you put the piston(s) into the block. Failure to do so will require you to remove the piston to put the interior retainer clip in. I did this on the 3rd piston today getting in a hurry. And more fly-bys. http://i.imgur.com/oXpLiNN.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted November 25, 2014 Share Posted November 25, 2014 Nice work! Clean that block face really well before you slap HGs on it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted November 30, 2014 Author Share Posted November 30, 2014 NEWB-TIP: When installing the main seal, reason might tell you, like it did me, to install the seal so that it butts up against the engine block behind the crankshaft. DO NOT INSTALL IT LIKE THIS!!! According to those who have made this mistake, if you install it like this your main seal will leak like a shiv. Here's the link to the discussion on NAUSIOC: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1543699 WRONG INSTALLATION: http://i.imgur.com/AfZXOAJ.jpg I made this mistake when installing my main. I would have finished it up and put the fly-wheel on the crank and called it done, but as I was preparing to put the fly wheel on, the set of hawk-eyes I had helping me that day saved me from a certain engine re-pull down the line. If you do make this common mistake, about the only way to get the seal out is to drill a hole in it, drive a screw into the hole and use it to pull the seal out with a vise-grips or pliers. http://i.imgur.com/kqSqqhs.jpg $20 mistake http://i.imgur.com/ghppOVe.jpg I used an old coffee can to help it into its place evenly. http://i.imgur.com/R1xlKyn.jpg The CORRECT POSITION OF THE SEAL IS FLUSH WITH THE FACE of the engine block shroud around the crankshaft. CORRECT INSTALLATION: http://i.imgur.com/yQtJLpY.jpg After that fiasco I installed the fly-wheel, oil pump, oil cooler/coolant nipple, water pump, timing belt tension-er bracket, and heads. http://i.imgur.com/7Q3cM7b.jpg http://i.imgur.com/SfC02Ky.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted November 30, 2014 Author Share Posted November 30, 2014 If anyone has resources for putting together the intake manifold / plumbing mess I would appreciate - reference photos, diagrams, etc. When I'm done I'm planning on putting all the resources that I've found and used into my original post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnusonsubie Posted November 30, 2014 Share Posted November 30, 2014 Sub'd to see the rest of this build. Goodluck in your reinstall of the intake manifold 2005 Vader Wagon Material Tests on Ringland Failure Piston I should have held off and purchased a wagon instead of the spec.B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted December 1, 2014 Share Posted December 1, 2014 Looks legit! You put Teflon tape and/or sealant on that coolant nipple/plug into the block, right? I'm currently kicking myself for not doing so, and will need to drain the coolant to fix the issue soon. I suggest Teflon tape on the threads, and a small bead of ultra black on the lowermost threads and the flange, to ensure maximum seal- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted December 1, 2014 Author Share Posted December 1, 2014 Looks legit! You put Teflon tape and/or sealant on that coolant nipple/plug into the block, right? I'm currently kicking myself for not doing so, and will need to drain the coolant to fix the issue soon. I suggest Teflon tape on the threads, and a small bead of ultra black on the lowermost threads and the flange, to ensure maximum seal- I did a bunch of research related to the engine plugs after first thinking Teflon Tape would be good. Some people suggested teflon tape, other's really came out against Teflon Tape on the forums, especially where oil is involved because they said a piece can come off and clog oil galleys, etc. Water is not such a risk because of size of passages, but in the video series I posted in my first post he used High Temp Thread Sealant so that's what I went with. Permatex High Temp Thread Sealant. It's white and smells like cherries. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LatentWagen Posted December 1, 2014 Share Posted December 1, 2014 Nice to see you getting your hands dirty, and documenting it for us armchair mechanics Tuned in to see progress... What's with the fly-by action shots? Live near a base? LW's spec. B / YT / IG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted December 1, 2014 Share Posted December 1, 2014 Fwiw, I'm sure my block was still OEM spec, and that particular galley plug had Teflon tape on it when I removed it to put on the new block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted December 1, 2014 Author Share Posted December 1, 2014 Fwiw, I'm sure my block was still OEM spec, and that particular galley plug had Teflon tape on it when I removed it to put on the new block. That's what I thought it was as well, but I'm pretty sure it's a thread sealant! Nice to see you getting your hands dirty, and documenting it for us armchair mechanics Tuned in to see progress... What's with the fly-by action shots? Live near a base? Thanks, stay tuned! Not terribly close to a base, I'm just fond of aircraft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HydroStream6 Posted December 1, 2014 Share Posted December 1, 2014 Nice work! What did you end up finding for clearance specs on those pistons? I've thought about using those pistons/rings myself on my spare short block build. We have an LGT and an OBXT, both with about 150k miles, so I'm going to build a spare short block to have on hand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted December 1, 2014 Author Share Posted December 1, 2014 Nice work! What did you end up finding for clearance specs on those pistons? I've thought about using those pistons/rings myself on my spare short block build. We have an LGT and an OBXT, both with about 150k miles, so I'm going to build a spare short block to have on hand. They are a JDM OEM, so we went with OEM specs of (if I recall correctly 99% sure) +-.01mm on final hone. I couldn't see any differences between the new Nippon pistons and the ones I took out of the block. Machine shop said all four new pistons mic'd nuts on at 100mm at the window in the dry lube coating on the skirt. Also, all the rings ended up being within spec out of the box so no need for filing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenster Posted December 1, 2014 Share Posted December 1, 2014 http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=143225 This might help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted December 2, 2014 Author Share Posted December 2, 2014 AWESOME INFO! Thanks! http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=143225 This might help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 That's what I thought it was as well, but I'm pretty sure it's a thread sealant! I have been told that it is exactly the same teflon tape one finds at the local hardware store down Main St, Every town, USA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted December 2, 2014 Author Share Posted December 2, 2014 CALL THE PLUMBER! So, I got the injectors, TGV's, fuel-lines, and some of the cooling on today. On the TGV's I used a 7/16" x 14 x 1" hex bolts (trimmed to length) from ACE Hardware. Threaded the holes and put them in with JB Weld for seal. BTW, the holes threaded with no further drillng necessary for this size of bolt - perfect fit. What happens to the plugs from the wiring harness that go to the TGV's? http://i.imgur.com/6DgM4Tc.jpg Here's a couple pics of progress: http://i.imgur.com/hoOjgdy.jpg http://i.imgur.com/ORwTZuB.jpg Still haven't figured out where this guy goes: http://i.imgur.com/dazhxuf.jpg Overcast http://i.imgur.com/EwtPtbL.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenster Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 That line looks like it is the oil cooler hard line that goes to the water pump in the front. http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/02/ce02a29e77c32e5e6800bb26ba66cf61.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/02/2ae7bc0295d0ec36563a5fbd86e769b4.jpg Maybe you can zoom in and see. You'll need some rubber hose for it. It mounts to the oil pump I believe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenster Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 AWESOME INFO! Thanks! No problem man. Post #15 has more to look at too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted December 2, 2014 Author Share Posted December 2, 2014 That's it! Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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