kzr750r1 Posted June 2, 2016 Author Share Posted June 2, 2016 Probably go this route in the bay at the end of a galley extension kit. Short term. http://www.marshallinstruments.com/products/CW00100.cfm Need to go through the airbag recall and don't need more gauges in their way to screw up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted June 2, 2016 Author Share Posted June 2, 2016 I've had DEFI boost, oil temp and oil pressure gauges for the past 115K miles and both senders and gauges have worked flawlessly. And they match/replicate the speedo/tach opening ceremony and lighting is spot-on. Not cheap, but very, very durable and accurate. I remember you being a DEFI fan. Need to look around for a bit more before I jump. Is AFR on the dash all that useful? Yes having the sensor on board is the key reason for tuning. Other than the given oil pressure need to fill the second cubby gauge position. Temp of trans or case oil are close seconds. I don't want dissimilar dash gauges. OCD will not allow it. Picking a brand/line is a key element here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted June 2, 2016 Share Posted June 2, 2016 I used to run mechanical gauges on my Opel Rallye...until the OP feed line decided to "uncouple" under some demanding hooning-around stresses. Hot oil spraying inside the car is not fun and forever turned me off to mechanical gauges. AFR is one of those "use the AP or get a dash gauge" needs, especially if you're loading-up the engine, i.e., Stage 2+ tune, go-fast canyon carving, tracking, or towing, with your car. If you're just DDing it and don't give-in to FTTF hooning, it's your call. My $.02 worth. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted June 2, 2016 Author Share Posted June 2, 2016 The mechanical will not go in the car just the engine bay. It would be a stopgap measure. AFR would be for data logging tuning a solid stage 2 after I pass smog. I'm going to be forced to go back to stock looking first so a DP is not in my immediate rebuild plans. After it's passed I can have two years of stage 2 fun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted June 2, 2016 Share Posted June 2, 2016 I have a fitting, got it from SBT, that goes into the front block oil journal where the OEM oil pressure sensor goes (1/8"PT threads I think, not NPT), that allows you to be able to hook a hose up the block and prime the entire block with oil BEFORE you attempt to start the motor for the first time. Let me know if I can bring it over when you're getting ready to start her up. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted June 2, 2016 Author Share Posted June 2, 2016 Thanks GT... I picked one up from Sgt. Gator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted June 8, 2016 Author Share Posted June 8, 2016 Ok no word back from Mike about ETA for the OCV hose and V2 filter we discussed, so I'm just going to plow forward with V1 setup. DW65c with install kit just arrived. Surprised how small it is for some reason. Sent the stock injectors over to them for servicing today. Need some new plugs, ATF and to check for the locating pins between the case and the transmission. Going to replace the TC seal and give the TC a little message with some emery cloth... TC and rotors have gathered some rust over the last two years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted June 12, 2016 Author Share Posted June 12, 2016 Trying to remember where this bung is connected. The unit to the right of the blue T connection on the intake manifold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WRX USA Posted June 12, 2016 Share Posted June 12, 2016 You should get rid of the blue tee while you are in there. http://www.company23.com/products/subaruparts/VacuumT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted June 12, 2016 Author Share Posted June 12, 2016 I have one from Turkeylord before he handed it over to Company23. Mocking everything up so I can make sure to make good use of the last Free Range Racing hose kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted June 12, 2016 Share Posted June 12, 2016 Trying to remember where this bung is connected. The unit to the right of the blue T connection on the intake manifold. I think that is where the brake booster vacuum line connects. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted June 12, 2016 Author Share Posted June 12, 2016 Sigh... Plumbing nearing the end. It seemed I was missing some of the molded hoses until the was box was found while cleaning up... Running out of smaller diameter hose clamps. The cut hoses are going to be trial and error with less of the error side of things. Now I need to find the coil pack connector kit I picked up from Infamous 3+ years ago. It wasn't in the normal subaru hord box. May be stored in the car, have to check there. Will get this done soon enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted June 12, 2016 Author Share Posted June 12, 2016 Details, details, details... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted June 12, 2016 Author Share Posted June 12, 2016 Time to go pickup some fresh tiewraps for all the small vacuum hoses and place the wire harness. Will be ordering the new heater core hoses, sparkplugs and other materials needed for install and first startup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 13, 2016 Share Posted June 13, 2016 FWIW, http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-barbed-tube-fittings/=12u7nue 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted June 13, 2016 Moderators Share Posted June 13, 2016 Sigh... Plumbing nearing the end. It seemed I was missing some of the molded hoses until the was box was found while cleaning up... Running out of smaller diameter hose clamps. The cut hoses are going to be trial and error with less of the error side of things. Now I need to find the coil pack connector kit I picked up from Infamous 3+ years ago. It wasn't in the normal subaru hord box. May be stored in the car, have to check there. Will get this done soon enough. I have installed the freerangeracing kit also, and ended up with a number of EXTRA larger hoses that I have no idea where they go. I have a bunch of vacuum line left also, but that's no biggie--I had some silicone in there already that I didn't bother replacing. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted June 13, 2016 Share Posted June 13, 2016 I'm still rocking the OEM "T" connector. As long as it's zip tied, it's good to go. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted June 13, 2016 Share Posted June 13, 2016 Hopefully, you replaced the hose(s) though. After all these years and Cali heat and dry cycles, they're likely cracked and dry and ready for refresh. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted June 13, 2016 Share Posted June 13, 2016 Hopefully, you replaced the hose(s) though. After all these years and Cali heat and dry cycles, they're likely cracked and dry and ready for refresh. Hoses have been replaced when I rebuilt the motor over a little 3 yrs ago. Good to go for another 3 - 4 yrs. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted June 13, 2016 Share Posted June 13, 2016 Easily. My 10 Y/O hoses, 1/2 of that in SoCal, were right at the EOSL last year when I replaced them all - including the soft fuel lines. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted June 14, 2016 Author Share Posted June 14, 2016 (edited) Good to hear that you had some extra hose sections Barman. At the end I was just making an educated guess taking sections out and rebuilding with the bits left. Wasn't much. Many were rock hard and didn't want to budge or just so loose to be any good. All of the hoses on the motor aside from the heater core are new. Feels good. Headed out for some tie wrap fun. PITA was orienting the hose clamps into a position where they can be reached or are out of the way. Wire harness install after tie wrap job. Next to wrap my head around pulling this torque converter to replace the seal. Edited June 14, 2016 by kzr750r1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted June 14, 2016 Author Share Posted June 14, 2016 FWIW, http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-barbed-tube-fittings/=12u7nue Holy hell that site is like crack. Just as expensive. Stainless T and line reducer for just under $40... What a deal. Thanks though I may order a few. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 Holy hell that site is like crack. Just as expensive. Stainless T and line reducer for just under $40... What a deal. Thanks though I may order a few. I found brass ones for under $4.00, what are you talking about. http://images1.mcmaster.com/mvA/contents/gfx/small/44555k138p1-c01fs.png?ver=1356079276 For Tube ID Each 0.096" 44555K136 $3.74 0.17" 44555K137 2.51 1/4" 44555K138 3.66 3/8" 44555K186 4.49 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted June 14, 2016 Author Share Posted June 14, 2016 Wasn't thinking brass was thinking Stainless. Well see if what I ordered will work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 You don't need SS for this. Brass or a good plastic is fine. You can even go to Home Depot in Plumbing and get the brass T and barb fittings and Teflon tape and make your own T. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now