KZR750R1 2006 OBXT Head Gasket/Motor Refresh

[kzr750r1]

Done and done. Will reassemble later this morning. Need to get some work done for da man so I don't loose my job.

[Rhitter]

Are you planning on dropping it in this weekend? Do you need an extra set of hands?

[kzr750r1]

No. I can only muster a couple hours a night on it. Not hedging bets on a completion date.

May have a lot done tonight if these hoses cooperate.

[kzr750r1]

Engine Gasket kit is getting thin. What are these for?

[kzr750r1]

Intake manifold, Wire loom and Turbo intake are all that's left.

 

DP and Turbo now or after motor is in?

 

Sending stock injectors off to Deatschwerks next week. Hope they are good still.

Need to replace the seal for the torque converter.

 

Looking like end of March early June drop in.

 

Heading over to my friends for a 18mmx1.5 tap for the A/F sensor threads.

[FJuan]

Put the turbo on now, a lot easier to attach all the hoses and bolts. DP after the motor is in.

[kzr750r1]

Put the turbo on now, a lot easier to attach all the hoses and bolts. DP after the motor is in.

I said DP but meant UP...

[FJuan]

Yes assemble the UP with the turbo.

 

Note: Do not install the front O2 A/F sensor until the motor is completely in. It's one of the biggest mistake people do, including myself. You'll thank me later.

[kzr750r1]

Ok. So your suggesting install all the exhaust before going in the car.

 

Cleaned up the threads for the A/F sensor last night...

[FJuan]

Yup, put everything on the motor that you can. It will go in the same way as it came out.

[kzr750r1]

Been almost two years. Could have sworn most of the exhaust was out minus Up and Turbo when we pulled it.

 

Back to the pictures.

[FJuan]

Nope you still had the turbo on there.

[kzr750r1]

Yep. Same I see on the other pictures. I'll drop it back on before going back in. Only way i can figure the Up is going to go in clean. Quite a bit of slop with those two mounting brackets alone. Making another parts order.

 

Need to have new front dif axle seals and accessory belt pulley. Heuberger is no help yet on the seals as there are 4 different part numbers. Looking around for the right number now.

[seanyb505]

Not sure if this will help you, here's my order from FredBeans when I installed new axles a few years ago (05 LGT 5spd):

Left: 806735290

Right: 806735300

 

Edit: I'm getting the same numbers for an 06 OBXT 5eat. The diagrams say there is a different option for either side of an September 2009 build date, which I'm assuming your 2006 is before 2009

Edited May 16, 2016 by seanyb505

[kzr750r1]

There are two variants of the same numbers you show with -'09MY0809 or '09MY810-

Not 100% sure what one applies to the models before '09, assuming the first.

 

Using Heuberger's site is great but not taking my VIN number to rule out the later models.

[seanyb505]

That's been my interpretation. [Production Date Before]-'09MY0809....'09MY810-[And Production Dates After] The little chart in the upper right of that diagram should have a "+" symbol you can click on for either option and it will take you to the correct part number below.

[Max Capacity]

Have you test fitted the tmic yet ? do it while the engine is out of the car...or have I told you that and you said you have fmic ?

 

Also the axles seals go in as a left and right, don't put them in backwards.

[kzr750r1]

Have you test fitted the tmic yet ? do it while the engine is out of the car...or have I told you that and you said you have fmic ?

 

Also the axles seals go in as a left and right, don't put them in backwards.

I've read this suggestion from you a few times. Aware of side specific seals.

 

That's been my interpretation. [Production Date Before]-'09MY0809....'09MY810-[And Production Dates After] The little chart in the upper right of that diagram should have a "+" symbol you can click on for either option and it will take you to the correct part number below.

Seals are in the bag now looking for the last cooling hoses I haven't replaced. The two coolant hoses that head to the heater core on the fire wall. Trying to get the most out of the shipping.

[kzr750r1]

Want to have Oil Pressure for first startup.

Looking at this kit. Anyone not happy with the quality of prosport?

 

http://prosportgauges.com/52mm-electrical-oil-pressure-gauge.aspx

 

Only other gauge I'd be interested in is wide band later down the road. AEM seems to be one favorite on that front.

 

AEM oil pressure gauge is pricey but is it worth the extra scrilla?

[GTEASER]

Prosport's aren't dimmable, so personally I would never buy them. The GT is getting Stack ProControl gauges, but I can't spend that kinda cash on gauges for both cars, so I think I am going with Autometer Cobalt Digital gauges for the Forester.

[Chris GTO TT]

I'm not a fan of prosport gauges. Their boost gauge is notorious for being slow to respond and inaccurate.

[SBT]

I'm not a fan of prosport gauges. Their boost gauge is notorious for being slow to respond and inaccurate.

 

I often wonder if it's not due to the cheap senders that they use, or whether it really is the gauge itself.

 

So, what's the recent progress on this? New lessons learned?

[Chris GTO TT]

I often wonder if it's not due to the cheap senders that they use, or whether it really is the gauge itself.

 

So, what's the recent progress on this? New lessons learned?

 

I wonder that also, but never felt like testing it on my engine.

[FJuan]

I have Prosport gauges for the past 7 yrs, haven't had any issues with them. Yes they are cheap, but they work to my standards. Both my boost and oil gauges are quick and fairly accurate, may not be the best, but they do the job.

[SBT]

I've had DEFI boost, oil temp and oil pressure gauges for the past 115K miles and both senders and gauges have worked flawlessly. And they match/replicate the speedo/tach opening ceremony and lighting is spot-on. Not cheap, but very, very durable and accurate.