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[How-To] Clutch Damper Valve Delete


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I've been stuck working on the front yard for the past month, but man... The first "car" weekend I get, I'll be doing this mod. It's been waiting on the shelf for seemingly forever.
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Damn, Adding this to the list. This is just removing more junk out of the lines ? don't need to buy anything.

If you end up doing this additional damper delete please throw up a little review of the results. I was thinking about doing it but the clutch feels pretty perfect now if you ask me so I'm waiting to here the difference between 1 delete vs 2 deletes

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The first "damper" is more of an expansion chamber, that over time and somewhat aggressive clutch pedal activation (and likely, accelerated by cold fluid) will cause the baffle plate to fracture (Surley). Removing it will lessen the somewhat vague clutch/pedal feel, which we all agree, is a good thing.

 

Removing the spring loaded damper/control valve assembly from the slave cylinder will eliminate the restricting orifices. This allows the clutch fluid to directly activate the throwout bearing during engagement/disengagement for a unrestricted action. By removing it, you will definitely notice the difference in colder (fluid) temps.

 

These devices were installed to lessen clutch induced shock on the driveline. As installed they do what they were intended to do. However, at the cost of vague/mushy pedal feel and slower disengagement of the clutch disc which causes unnecessary wear.

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The first "damper" is more of an expansion chamber, that over time and somewhat aggressive clutch pedal activation (and likely, accelerated by cold fluid) will cause the baffle plate to fracture (Surley). Removing it will lessen the somewhat vague clutch/pedal feel, which we all agree, is a good thing.

 

Removing the spring loaded damper/control valve assembly from the slave cylinder will eliminate the restricting orifices. This allows the clutch fluid to directly activate the throwout bearing during engagement/disengagement for a unrestricted action. By removing it, you will definitely notice the difference in colder (fluid) temps.

 

These devices were installed to lessen clutch induced shock on the driveline. As installed they do what they were intended to do. However, at the cost of vague/mushy pedal feel and slower disengagement of the clutch disc which causes unnecessary wear.

 

have you done the stage 2 delete?

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hahahaha, you can say that again. i never was good with that whole who said what when thing. my brain tends to turn to mush about everything other than mechanical seals by this point in the day, but to be honest i didn't go back to check who had posted those photos because i try not to spend to much time on here while at work (which backfired). but I'm looking for some feed back on the second delete. does it make as big a difference as the first? am i EVEN MORE likely that i will break something now?
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Finally, after realizing how bad LA traffic sucks donkey dickss I got fed up with the clutch engagement and got this sucker installed after having the new damper sitting in my car for the past year lol. Was a little difficult to install because I'm not the smallest guy in the world and I'm lazy when it comes to working on my own car. Was having a tough time lining the hard lines back up and threading trying not to cross thread. I also couldn't get it mounted onto the bracket without bending the hard lines. So I left it there without mounting it, hopefully it's not a big issue. Overall, clutch feels a lot more firm. I can also feel vibration from the pedal when in gear, hoping that is normal as well? Way more consistent! Should have installed it a long time ago lol
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I have a bit of vibration too. Thats just minor wear imbalance in your clutch. The damper delete helps eliminate imbalanced wear, so that vibration partially goes away after a few eeks as your clutch evens out. That's my experience anyway.
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I am convinced the damper was more for smooth feel than anything. I feel all sorts of stuff through the pedal now too.

From all the reading I've done on this in multiple vehicles and tons of personal experience with older cable and hydraulic clutches. The dampener literally makes your clutch slip so it "feels smooth on your foot" and doesn't cause any harsh engagement. I think I'm going to call it "The soccer mom slipper". But yes the bypass will give you way more feedback through the pedal, like the clutches most of us are custom to. I really should have ordered one of these bypasses with my shifter stop the other day. It always gets me in tight parking lot situations like today, which made me look like a complete noob in front of the man (my father) who taught me how to drive a 3 on the tree over 2 decades ago, literally before I could even touch the clutch pedal or even knew what it really was! I definitely have one bookmarked to be ordered online, if the local dealers decide to charge me an arm and leg. So weather permitting this coming up weekend and parts being available by then. I am taking the challenge, since the fluid could use a swap too.

 

Speaking of fluid has anyone tested out the difference between fluid types/manufacturers in the clutch hydraulics? I know it makes a difference in the brake system, so I'm curious if a full synthetic fluid might help with the cold weather stiffness? Or is it going to make it stiffer all the time like it does to brakes? I know it made a huge difference on my motorcycle, which had a bad habit of not wanting to stop so well when extremely hot out 90°F and as well at temperatures 45°F or below. Did a pad swap flush and refilled with synthetic and wa-la, stopping was consistent at all temperatures. Now if there's a post out there on the LGT forums about this subject I've not come across it yet, so feel free to point me in the right direction.

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