iyalla Posted February 1, 2006 Share Posted February 1, 2006 That's funny... cause on the underbody there's a panel labeled "OIL FILTER" Not on the 2.5i. No underbody panel for us. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
melayout Posted February 1, 2006 Share Posted February 1, 2006 Tip, When you prime the new filter with oil, make sure to top it off right before you install it since the filter element absorbs some of the oil. I keed I keeed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psucaptainkickass Posted March 6, 2006 Share Posted March 6, 2006 Just wanted to resurrect this thread to let Opie know...great instructions! Complete noob here, did the oil change this weekend...messy...but no major problems. I might even spring to install the fumoto next time since it is such a mess. Now only if they made a fumoto for the oil filter (kidding...) that thing was a mess to remove! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_T Posted March 6, 2006 Share Posted March 6, 2006 Loosen the O/F just enough to know you can hand loosen it the rest of the way, place a drain pan under it, then pop some openings in it with a flat blade screwdriver or better. Let drain over night, it'll be "dry" by morning. Remove and replace. The Fumoto is great; get the nipple version and you can direct the flow via 3/8" ID tubing. Works great over night too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDork Posted March 6, 2006 Share Posted March 6, 2006 did mine this weekend as well. effing oil filter was a nightmare to loosen. fyi--mobil 1 filters are out now for the leggy gt. $10.50 retail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psucaptainkickass Posted March 6, 2006 Share Posted March 6, 2006 I was told by the parts guy at the Subie dealer, that we should be using the genuine subaru filter. He said they made some changes to the part, and that by going with an aftermarket solution, the right amount of pressure might not be present, and cause leaks. Take that info FWIW, because at $10.50 for the Mobil 1 filter, that is more expensive than the OEM part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-2.5-GT Posted March 6, 2006 Share Posted March 6, 2006 IMO the new filter sucks. I've been using it a few times now just to get rid of the ones i had, i think i'll be switching on the next go. The size may be better, but the gasket they switched to using blows. Its barely sitting above the lip. Thats part of the reason they have to crank it on there, otherwise it wouldn't seal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
melayout Posted March 25, 2006 Share Posted March 25, 2006 Thanks Opie. I keed I keeed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilh Posted March 27, 2006 Share Posted March 27, 2006 I finally just did my first change. The dealer did the first three while in for various warranty work. After all the hype about the messy flow out of the drain...that was nothing. It went right into my foot-wide collection tray. No splashing, and I don't think it even dripped on the plastic under tray. I think my last VW made more mess. Now the filter. Yikes. Even though it is vertical, that thing just spews oil down the sides before you can get it completely unscrewed. Yuck. I'm going to have to try puncturing it first. I'll pass on the Fumoto valve. That was the least of my mess. Altogether, everything was easily reachable without raising the car at all (stock height). I'm giving Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 a try this time after burning through 1+ qts Mobil1 5W-30 over the past 4,500 miles. --Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWD-Turbo Posted March 27, 2006 Share Posted March 27, 2006 Now the filter. Yikes. Even though it is vertical, that thing just spews oil down the sides before you can get it completely unscrewed. Yuck. I'm going to have to try puncturing it first. I changed the oil yesterday, and tried out a new trick (at least for me) for dealing with the filter. I used a big disposable solo plastic cup around the filter. You can still squeeze enough to get the filter off, and all the oil stays in the cup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vahkil Posted March 27, 2006 Share Posted March 27, 2006 I changed the oil yesterday, and tried out a new trick (at least for me) for dealing with the filter. I used a big disposable solo plastic cup around the filter. You can still squeeze enough to get the filter off, and all the oil stays in the cup. I had planned on trying this the next time I do mine. My roommate has the same problem with his Tacoma's vertical filter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rosta Posted March 27, 2006 Share Posted March 27, 2006 I changed the oil yesterday, and tried out a new trick (at least for me) for dealing with the filter. I used a big disposable solo plastic cup around the filter. You can still squeeze enough to get the filter off, and all the oil stays in the cup. that is frickin' brilliant! why didn't i think of it? thank you for that tip! i've got an oil change to do this weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Rebo Posted April 11, 2006 Share Posted April 11, 2006 5w-30 is thinner than 10w-30 and is therefore better in terms of cold starts and fuel economy, compared to 10w-30 which protects the engine better when you drive hard and at high rpms. I'm replying to an older post, but I read this and had to respond to clear things up a bit. The difference between 5w30 and 10w30 (5w vs. 10w) only really pertains to cold starts, particularly in winter temperatures. It doesn't really have any affect on fuel economy. In terms of fuel economy and engine protection under hard driving and/or high load, a 5w30 = 10w30. When either of these oils reaches normal operating temperature, both will behave like a 30-weight oil. Just thought I'd offer some info that I gathered over time from oil analysis info and related sites. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
showbo Posted April 13, 2006 Share Posted April 13, 2006 I never changed the crush washer on my 04 WRX and i never had a problem with leaks ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodeo-clown Posted April 22, 2006 Share Posted April 22, 2006 Great instructions, but only one problem (for me)! Have any other Australians followed these instructions? For the life of me I cannot find the 5 pop clips. It seems that there is one large undercover plastic body that is held with atleast 4 large metal philips head screws...a small wrench socket will fit as well. I've tried with a philips head screwdriver and even with wrench screwdriver and cannot get one off. I'm just wondering if any other Aussies have gotten to their oil filter and if so how? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
showbo Posted April 23, 2006 Share Posted April 23, 2006 K i just got done with my first oil change, needless to say oil went everywhere. I installed a fotmoto drain valve...so next time i will be good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZinFreak Posted May 4, 2006 Share Posted May 4, 2006 OK, did the search thing, no entries apparently for Aeroquip's Quick-Drain. After reviewing this thread it looks like there are issues with the Fumoto drain hitting a cross-member in some Legacy's, apparently Has anyone tried one of these? http://hydraulics.eaton.com/products/pdfs/jc215.pdf There's an application chart, but I'll be dipped if I know how to figure out the "Thread Size" of the Subaru oil plug/pan. Any ideas, thoughts? Given the dimensions it looks like this wouldn't have the same issues with mysterious cross-member. -Zin 06 LGT LTD GRP 5MT 07 FXT LTD OBP 4EAT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al-gorithm Posted May 4, 2006 Share Posted May 4, 2006 I just hacked off 3 threads worth from the fumotovalve... done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhatV8 Posted May 4, 2006 Share Posted May 4, 2006 Not on the 2.5i. No underbody panel for us. Hmmm, sounds like someone is missing something. My '06 2.5i has the full underbody panel. The biggest concern I would have w/o the panel is engine cooling, since the panel would help create a venturi effect under the car and help draw the air from the engine compartment and through the radiator. The knuckleheads down at the local quick change let the filter drain onto her '02 Forester underbelly pan, since it doesn't have an access panel for the filter. I must have scrapped out 2 lbs of oil/dirt buildup from the top side of her cover the other night when I changed her oil. Now I know why her car left some oil drips on the ground for a few days after an oil change. ZinFreak...that Aeroquip fitting is pretty cool. It looks like the female fitting has a barb fitting on the end of it that you could put a hose onto. This would allow you to direct the oil right into the oil pan and avoid any splashes. Where would one pick one of these up and how much $$?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZinFreak Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 WhatV8: I found some cross references on other auto forums speaking of them, for instance, here's one from a Probe forum (can't believe people would be talking about Ford Probes ) http://forums.probetalk.com/showthread.php?t=1701127566 Looks like they can be found for around $60. Found similar results on a Mazda 6 forum. I've heard of Aeroquip from the aviation industry and they are used on aircraft engines which are usually a bitch to change the oil on. I found references from places like Aircraft Spruce and Specialty for $400.00. Yes Four Hundred I guess that's for one that has an FAA id # on it. I'll keep digging, hopefully someone knows the size and thread type of the Legacy oil plug. Be Well. -Zin 06 LGT LTD GRP 5MT 07 FXT LTD OBP 4EAT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holland Posted May 9, 2006 Share Posted May 9, 2006 Quick dumb question. My 2.5RS didn't require me to jack up or raise the car to get to the oil drain plug. Would that also be the case with the LGT's? Just wondering if changing the oil on these cars are just as easy. By the looks of the photos (and probably my own lack of depth perception while looking at them, LOL), it sorta looks possible. I was reading through this thread and I didn't see anything mentioned about whether or not anyone jacked up the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deneb Posted May 9, 2006 Share Posted May 9, 2006 I don't jack my LGT up for oil changes/oil drain. I'm fairly slender though and it takes a bit of contorting to get to the drain plug w/o jacking the car up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hondas123 Posted May 9, 2006 Share Posted May 9, 2006 It's not necessary to jack it up or use ramps. I use ramps though because it's much easier to get under. - The Mortgage Man Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deneb Posted May 9, 2006 Share Posted May 9, 2006 What brand of ramps? The ones I have won't fit under the front of the car, the front fascia won't clear them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hondas123 Posted May 9, 2006 Share Posted May 9, 2006 I've had them now for about twelve years, so I'm sorry I don't know the brand. - The Mortgage Man Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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