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Oil Change Instructions! With Pics!


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Question about this crush washer....if i go to say advance auto parts or autozone...what size etc am i looking for?

 

I just spent several hours figuring this out a few days ago.

 

20 mm

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yup i found those..same as the other legacy's....now i just drained my oil..and i'm not seeing a crush washer on there to begin with?

 

If it's the first time the oil's been changed the gasket is prbably painted to the drain plug. Use a small screwdriver and pop it off.

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Check thoroughly, see if you can feel one still stuck to the oil pan. If all else fails, you'll know if you had one on there already if you put a new one on, replace the drain plug, and fill it with oil. If you end up with two crush washers, you'll get a leak.
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The first time I tried to remove the oil filter on my 05 GT I could not do it by hand. I had to go buy a strap wrench. The filter was on there really tight.

 

Let me reinforce this point. The factory installed oil filter is really, REALLY tight. I had to buy an oil filter strap type wrench and was barely able to get it off. The OEM oil filter just fit into a 65 mm (max.) size strap wrench.

My advice, get the first change done by a dealer/garage.

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First oil change completed today @ 2k. O.E. filter, Castrol dino juice and Fumoto valve. What a f-ing mess! I decided not (stoopid) to take the whole cover off. BIG MISTAKE. I've never seen oil spew out that way before. I'm stubborn so I had to experience it first hand (idiot). I did skip straight to my breaker bar and socket for the drain plug. It was tight but less than the horror stories I've read about. Took the same approach with the filter. Borrowed a kickass filter wrench from a buddy and she loosened up with little drama.

 

I did install my Fumoto valve w/nipple so future changes should be less dramatic. I've read there might be some clearance issues with the valve but mine went on perfectly. I suppose it may look a little tight but there was plenty of room to screw her in. I'm actually looking forward to the next oil change.

 

My advice, take the cover off and install a Fumoto.

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.

 

I did install my Fumoto valve w/nipple so future changes should be less dramatic. I've read there might be some clearance issues with the valve but mine went on perfectly. .

 

I stalled the Fumoto w/nipple also and after it was on wondered if I really needed the nipple. Are you using the nipple to attach a plastic hose to or just to slow/direct the flow?

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eastcoast-

 

I bought some hose to feed the oil right to a container. I figured the nipple could only help and if it didn't I'd just remove it. No real world experiences with it past the install. I'm not sure I'd be all that interested in doing more oil changes without one.

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I did the first oil change last night. The oil dran plug and the oil filter were indeed both really tight from the factory.

 

For the drain plug, I just gave the end of the wrench a few taps with a rubber mallet to initially break it loose. Even after reading the posts here I was suprised by the gush of oil that comes out. I had the drain pan well placed, but the volume and force of the stream still had oil splashing on the garage floor (and me).

 

I put in a Fumoto drain valve, so there should be no more drama at oil change time. Don't know if it was necessary, but I got the nipple version as the location looked pretty well protected from road hazards, and with a couple feet of vinyl tubing I can drain right into an empty oil container.

 

The two oil filter wrenches I had were both too big for that little filter so used a tongue/groove adjustable plier to grab it and get it loosened.

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Just changed my oil at 3K miles. After reading all the previous posts, I took off the shroud. It has five snap on holders (two on the sides and three on the bottom) and three bolts (12mm) holding it up. Pull out or pry out the circular center of the snaps and they come right off. After that, access is real easy. Oil drain plug (17mm) came right off.

 

I just changed my oil for the first time (@1000 miles). So I took the whole bottom cover off but ther were NO bolts holding it on. I removed the five snap snap on holders (two on the sides and three in front) and the whole thing came right off. (Actually after I removed them, I noticed the center one in the front doesn't hold the cover on) It sounds like my car's missing the bolts, I noticed two threaded holes on the bottom. I assume this would be a good place for bolts. Just curious if the bolts where missing for anyone else.

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Switched to synthetic and did it myself for the first time. Easier than I expected, only one drop of oil on the ground, and that happened because of a drip off the cover after moving on to the filter.

 

Observations:

Little tough to break the oil plug seal, but not too bad.

Oil flies out like an elephant taking a piss

Not too much oil on cover, little faster to leave it on and just wipe down quickly afterwards from the I perspective

Oil filter is TINY and seems way too close to the downpipe.

 

-B

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I think the trick is to leave the oil fill cap on, which results in a nice controlled drain rate. That's how I did it (by mistake actually, not having read the directions thorougly)..I thot I'd be bathing in oil and was shocked to see it pour out so nicely, none spilled.

 

Then pop the cap after the end of the drain, in case there's any vacuum holding back any oil (this seems unlikely but who knows..).

 

Does anyone puncture their oil filter to drain it before removal? Oil drainage from the filter area after removal seemed to be the worst aspect of the whole oil change. Sure gotta have that pan under there.

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Could anybody post a pic of the Fumoto drain valve they installed? I am curious as to how it fits, if it is tight in that area, and which one they installed (nipple or not).

 

In addition those who switched to synthetic oil what are you running?

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Haven't installed the Fumoto yet (bot with nipple so can attach drain hose). Switched to Mobil1 10w-30, which I plan to use through winter even, since it almost never gets to zero F around here.

 

Wanna change it every 6,000 miles. Just checked its appearance at 3,000, and it still looks pretty clear, with just some darkening.

 

I think with the 10w-30 there'll be less blow-by the rings, which is pretty common with 5w-30.

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I think the trick is to leave the oil fill cap on, which results in a nice controlled drain rate. That's how I did it (by mistake actually, not having read the directions thorougly)..I thot I'd be bathing in oil and was shocked to see it pour out so nicely, none spilled.

 

Then pop the cap after the end of the drain, in case there's any vacuum holding back any oil (this seems unlikely but who knows..).

 

Does anyone puncture their oil filter to drain it before removal? Oil drainage from the filter area after removal seemed to be the worst aspect of the whole oil change. Sure gotta have that pan under there.

 

I took my oil fill cap off before removing the drain plug, oil drained out fine for me, no mess, it was a nice controlled stream.

 

The oil filter was another story...big mess as I didn't realize how much oil was going to drain out all over my hand and arm! I'm just glad the motor wasn't warmed up, I probably would've had to go to the hospital for burn treatment. Punching a hole in the oil filter might not be such a bad idea...

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Okay, I haven't been able to lift my car up high enough to really get a good look under the engine compartment yet, and it's kinda hard to see what's going on under there when you're not familiar with it, but here's my question anyhow. I've read some about people completely removing the shroud from the oil filter/drain area. Has anyone left this off, and if so does it have any adverse effects? I mean, obviously it would make the oil change easier/faster, but is it there for aerodynamics or to protect anything, and if so is it really needed?
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Yes it is there mainly to protect the oil pan, engine and front diff. Plus it helps with the aerodynamics. If you remove it, you risk a rock puncturing the oil pan/filter and your engine goes p000f.
I keed I keeed
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  • 2 weeks later...

Could someone rate this for a first timer? I have basically never changed oil in a care before. I'd like to start trying myself. I don't really have any good tools either. Would I be better off getting it done at the dealer?

 

Thanks,

mlr

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Could someone rate this for a first timer? I have basically never changed oil in a care before. I'd like to start trying myself. I don't really have any good tools either. Would I be better off getting it done at the dealer?

 

Thanks,

mlr

 

So long as you have the materials (tools, pan, jack, jackstands, etc.), changing oil isn't tough at all...re difficulty, it's not much harder than changing a lightbulb or batteries...it can just be a bit messy :)

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