ilh

LGT fronts are 30mm and the wear limit is 28mm. At 45k miles I was only down to 29.7mm when my front stock pads were just needing replacement. --Lee

Thanks. (Still enjoying my jazzy aux in for more than 2 years.)

My vacation pix for 2005, 2008, and 2009 in one album for each year.

What is this new PAC iPod cable? I'm about to ditch my old Belkin charger/audio adapter because it won't charge my 3G. --Lee

That would explain why my local gas station's dyno is in a heap of parts outside. Interesting that MA got rid of all dyno testing and sniffing.

I think I have about 2500 miles on them.

Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 225/45R17 on stock wheels. Boston, MA. No track or autocross, just spirited street driving. 40% highway, 60% city. Bridgestone RE92, Nokian RSi. 6. Very, very good. These are my first dedicated summer tires. I can't believe how literally sticky they are when warmed up. I actually thought the RE92 (Z-rated) were not too bad in the dry when worn to about 5/32, but these clearly blow those away. The RE92s would often chirp when braking or turning hard. The limit on the F1A is clearly quite a bit higher. Without much effort, they just pulled 0.94G lateral around an off ramp this morning (according to Dynolicious on my iPhone), and that was not at the limit of traction. Wet traction seems quite good. I would guess that the F1 GSD3 is better in standing water, but these have pretty serious circumferential grooves that can clear the water. I have hydroplaned once in a very serious downpour at 65mph, but I was kind of exploring their hydroplaning limit. In normal driving they haven't let me down. Wet grip is excellent, and I have no doubt their wet limit is higher than the RE92's dry limit. UPDATE: I ran some skidpad-like simulation in a thoroughly wet empty parking lot this weekend and pulled a max of 1.04G one way and 0.97G the other way. There's no way the RE92 could do that in the dry. Ride comfort and noise are surprisingly good. They are quieter than RE92 (which I found quite quiet) and ride better too. Going from 215/45 to 225/45 gave me 1/4-inch more sidewall height, which I welcome on the lousy Boston area roads. (I run 205/50 on winter tires for the same reason.) The thing that surprises me is that while riding softer than the RE92, the F1A does not at all feel like it is rolling over on the sidewall in hard cornering. The RE92 would flop over and you could see the wear on the sidewall. It sure seems to me that Goodyear really nailed it on the handling/comfort balance. I'm running about 37/35psi. I could probably go up a little if I wanted to firm them up a bit more, but they don't really feel like they need it. I like the handling/comfort balance at this air pressure. The one negative is there is some flat spotting on cooler mornings. When it is in the 50s and 60s, I can feel some flat spotting for about 1-3 minutes at 35mph until the tire warms up. Still, I consider this a relatively minor issue compared to everything else this tire offers. --Lee

Real mileage or indicated mileage?

We just added an '08 Outback 2.5i Limited to the '05 Legacy GT Limited.

Don't let the brake pedal go to the floor when bleeding. That can cause damage to your master cylinder seals. That is not the normal range of motion, and there can be corrosion on the shaft that can rub against the seals, potentially damaging them.

Don't let the brake pedal go to the floor when bleeding. That can cause damage to your master cylinder seals. That is not the normal range of motion, and there can be corrosion on the shaft that can rub against the seals, potentially damaging them.

I just got my snail mail and email notification from SOA today. To time take it in.

Wow, something is very wrong. I've gone two weeks with my 05 LGT without any issues.

The service manual says 60k. I think the owners manual says 60k. The mysubaru.com page says 30k. I don't know where they got that. From the 2.5i?

I'm in Acton.

I was a silver LGT westbound on 2 passing 495 about 5:50ish. Was I finally spotted? Scans, I still can't get over the neck-snap your car has at 3000rpm, even "half tuned" as you say.

Is the ratio of total caliper piston area to master cylinder area getting factored in here anywhere? If you increase caliper piston area (e.g., more pistons) and keep the master cylinder the same, won't you be decreasing sensitivity? That is, you need more pedal movement to produce the same caliper movement. It seems a lot of folks who are after less pedal movement (i.e., more sensitivity) might be shooting themselves in the foot with some of these BBK setups, no?

Three LGTs this morning... Royal Blue LGT sedan in Concord Center, woman driving. Silver LGT sedan, debadged except for "T" of "2.5GT", with tinted windows, parked on Garden St. just outside of Harvard Square in Cambridge, MA this morning. Garnet LGT wagon, driving on 2A and 2 from Concord to Alewife area, guy driving.

Where on 128?

I opened things up again today. I verified my 3.5mm PAC GLI looks as in Crutchfield's photo, meaning the male end is the output and is attached to the jazzy. I also buried a Belkin iPod dock connector in my dash, and this works much better compared to using the headphone adapter as many have said before. I get no noise of any kind using the Belkin + GLI + jazzy. The Belkin pauses the iPod automatically when shutting off the car. I am a very happy camper!

On the subject of removing the center console clips: I gave up. I was pulling very hard straight up and couldn't get them to budge. Any harder and I thought I would break something. (Where are you supposed to hold while pulling?) In any case, I didn't need to remove it to remove the panel around the shifter. I unscrewed the rear of the center console, shifted it slightly to the rear (clips in front still in place), and then I was able to remove the panel around my 5MT shifter and proceed from there. I'm not certain I even needed to loosen the rear of the center console. Just a heads up if you do not need to install anything in the center cubby...

Now I am really confused. That picture looks pretty unambiguous. When I was hooking up it was ambiguous. I wonder if my sticker was turned 180 degrees? I am opening up my center console this weekend to install (and hide) a Belkin iPod dock adapter. I haven't yet decided if I will crack the head unit open again to check the GLI. I stupidly hooked the GLI directly to the jazzy unit. I should have run a plain patch cable out of the head unit and kept the GLI outside of the head unit. --Lee

When I wired my Crutchfield 3.5mm GLI in, it seemed like it was backwards. The "IN" side (male) was toward the jazzy, but to do it any other way would require an adapter between the jazzy and the GLI. It sounds fine that way. If you were to hook it up between say an iPod and PC speakers, the GLI would be hooked up the other way, with the "IN" side going into the iPod and the female end toward the speakers. --Lee

FWIW, I didn't need to remove those two difficult clips. With my 5MT, I was able to remove the shifter surround without removing those clips. However, I did remove the bolts in the storage bin and slightly shifted the whole assembly aft a bit, which might have helped.

After doing my install yesterday, last evening I was reviewing some photos I took during the process and realized I might have forgotten to reconnect the single black wire in this photo: http://www.csail.mit.edu/~ilh/pics/IMG_1393.jpg Presumably it is a ground given it is black and it is the only wire on that small connector. Anybody know what it is or how important it is? Everything sounds fine, I believe the HVAC system is operational, and I really don't want to go back in there if I don't need to. However, this is just the kind of thing that will gnaw at me if I don't go in to make sure. --Lee