TLS Posted September 6, 2004 Share Posted September 6, 2004 You "could" try a 5W-40 in the hot summer, but any 10W is just too thick for cold starts (wether the ambient temp is 15 or 102 degrees). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STiSubie109 Posted September 26, 2004 Share Posted September 26, 2004 thank you for this great write up and the pictures!!! did my first oil change on the beast yeseterday went smooth as butter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted September 28, 2004 Share Posted September 28, 2004 Did my first last week at 1122 miles. OEM filter was on there tight, but I got it off. One gripe was that the oil pan plug really dumps the oil when you remove it. All my GM cars have a nice smooth flow. The scoobie is like a 5/6" hole and the oil POURS out all over. MESSY! Also, replaced the crush washer with a fiber washer as I stated before... no leaks or issues with 500 miles...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-2.5-GT Posted October 19, 2004 Share Posted October 19, 2004 anyone have problems getting the oil changed with the car on the ground? Also, how tight should i tighten the filter on, and drain plug as well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
franklin Posted October 23, 2004 Share Posted October 23, 2004 A few comments A) changed my oil 1st time at 3000 mi. Filter was crazy tight from the factory! B) Excellent design to place the filter straight up-- this allows you to prefill the filter before install -- many times I heard that 80-90% of engine wear comes during "dry" startup. C) I used Purolator One filter (forget the P/N) got excellent ratings,along with A/C delco. Price about $6 D) ROTTEN design at oil drain plug area--- makes a real mess to drain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karamba Posted November 14, 2004 Share Posted November 14, 2004 Just changed my oil at 3K miles. After reading all the previous posts, I took off the shroud. It has five snap on holders (two on the sides and three on the bottom) and three bolts (12mm) holding it up. Pull out or pry out the circular center of the snaps and they come right off. After that, access is real easy. Oil drain plug (17mm) came right off. Having read about the tightness I was ready for some battle with a cheater bar and a hammer but they were not needed. Be warned - the oil gushes out like Niagara falls initially, I held the catch pan close to the drain until the flow was steady. The tiny filter also came off easily with a strap wrench. I loosened the filter and let the oil drain slow to a drip before taking it off. Not a drop of oil on the ground. I think I would always remove the shroud - I did this on my Nissan for as long as I had it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWD-Turbo Posted March 26, 2005 Share Posted March 26, 2005 I did my second oil change today at about 4300 miles. The first oil change was done poorly by the dealer. Thanks to the information on this site, it went fairly well. It looks like the dealer didn’t reinstall one of the pop clips, so I did stop by there today to pick up a new one. One tip that may be useful for removing the oil filter: I used a leftover piece of rubber non-skid shelf liner. It grips on the filter great without a need to pull out a wrench. anyone have problems getting the oil changed with the car on the ground? Also, how tight should i tighten the filter on, and drain plug as well? I changed my oil in my garage with no ramps or jacks. Its tight quarters, and you’ve basically got your ear on the floor to see what you’re doing. I installed a fumoto valve, so the next time will be easier. The fumoto valve instructions state 1/8-1/4 turn. The oem drain plug’s torque spec is 33 ft-lb. The owner’s manual states 1 full rotation after contact for the filter. At about 80% rotation, it would not budge, and I’m not going to tighten it further with a wrench. So far neither is leaking Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
melayout Posted March 27, 2005 Share Posted March 27, 2005 I too would stick with Subies recommend weight oil. There were alot of hours spend testing that engine, and Subaru would tell you if you needed a different weight oil. but thats just me. -Nick The user manual in the oil change section, states that 5w-30 and 10w-30 can be used. 5w-30 is thinner than 10w-30 and is therefore better in terms of cold starts and fuel economy, compared to 10w-30 which protects the engine better when you drive hard and at high rpms. Also, the manual states that 10w-30 can be used till 10F, so it's probably not an issue unless you are in Alaska, Minnesota or Canada. I keed I keeed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StringFellow Posted April 11, 2005 Share Posted April 11, 2005 Just a hint to people performing their first oil change. It appears to be a common reference that draining your transmission fluid is possible. What I normally do is drain the oil and then verify that it was indeed drained by checking the oil dipstick before refilling the crankcase. The dipstick should read empty, giving you proof you did indeed drain the correct fluid. If it doesn't read empty, you did something wrong (and DO NOT start or move your car until you verifiy what fluid you did drain). Enjoy! -S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoxerGT2.5 Posted April 11, 2005 Share Posted April 11, 2005 Just a hint to people performing their first oil change. It appears to be a common reference that draining your transmission fluid is possible. What I normally do is drain the oil and then verify that it was indeed drained by checking the oil dipstick before refilling the crankcase. The dipstick should read empty, giving you proof you did indeed drain the correct fluid. If it doesn't read empty, you did something wrong (and DO NOT start or move your car until you verifiy what fluid you did drain). Enjoy! -S If you accidently drain the trans fluid instead of the oil. You should not be under a car. j/k OBAMA......One Big Ass Mistake America! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWDxBOOST Posted April 12, 2005 Share Posted April 12, 2005 anyone have problems getting the oil changed with the car on the ground? Also, how tight should i tighten the filter on, and drain plug as well? hand tight and a quarter turn for both...dont force either on b/c its a pain to get off later...the plug and filter arent gonna fly off, its not like theres a ton of pressure on either Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarrod Posted April 12, 2005 Share Posted April 12, 2005 When you're putting the oil filter on...are you filling the filter itself up with oil then installing it or what? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legasee Posted April 12, 2005 Share Posted April 12, 2005 the ABSOLUTE best instructions ever seen....thumbs up! In Taiwan now... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-2.5-GT Posted April 12, 2005 Share Posted April 12, 2005 When you're putting the oil filter on...are you filling the filter itself up with oil then installing it or what? ideally you should, it prevents things from running dry to get oil into the filter. Its very easy with this car as the filter hangs vertical, so no spillage, no real reason not to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MUD Posted April 12, 2005 Share Posted April 12, 2005 Knocked out the first oil change today. That drain bolt was no joke. After giving it the popping vein in the forehead treatment, it finally broke. You guys weren't kidding about the Niagra treatment either. I'm glad I had a big enough drain pan! I absolutely LOVE the filter location though! It allows for easy removal, prime & re-application! Although...I barely got the filter (old school) wrench on it to break it loose! Now....for a full detail & Cobb treatment! Oh yeah....bring it on! :thumbup: It is the disposition of men to desire that which he cannot have, hence my un-quenchable wet desire for Shakira! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BadAndy Posted April 13, 2005 Share Posted April 13, 2005 The user manual in the oil change section, states that 5w-30 and 10w-30 can be used. 5w-30 is thinner than 10w-30 and is therefore better in terms of cold starts and fuel economy, compared to 10w-30 which protects the engine better when you drive hard and at high rpms. Also, the manual states that 10w-30 can be used till 10F, so it's probably not an issue unless you are in Alaska, Minnesota or Canada. So what weight oil should be used when the temp ranges from 95*-105*F? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoxerGT2.5 Posted April 13, 2005 Share Posted April 13, 2005 So what weight oil should be used when the temp ranges from 95*-105*F? I have 10-30 in my car now as the weather is beginning to change here in IL. OBAMA......One Big Ass Mistake America! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BadAndy Posted April 13, 2005 Share Posted April 13, 2005 What temps are you seeing on average? It gets pretty hot and humid here in good ole Souf Cakalaky!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarrod Posted April 17, 2005 Share Posted April 17, 2005 ideally you should, it prevents things from running dry to get oil into the filter. Its very easy with this car as the filter hangs vertical, so no spillage, no real reason not to. Ah i wish my mustang was like that..it's at a slant so it's a real pain to change and no point in trying to put oil in it then put it on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BadAndy Posted April 18, 2005 Share Posted April 18, 2005 Ah i wish my mustang was like that..it's at a slant so it's a real pain to change and no point in trying to put oil in it then put it on. LoL!! I know the feeling. Someone was smoking crack at Ford when the decide the location of the oil filter! Thankfully my old '94 Cobra used a smaller filter than FL1-A. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarrod Posted April 18, 2005 Share Posted April 18, 2005 LoL!! I know the feeling. Someone was smoking crack at Ford when the decide the location of the oil filter! Thankfully my old '94 Cobra used a smaller filter than FL1-A. Yeah i've had it for 5 years now and i still manage to get oil on me...been a good car though..never had any major problems Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unobtainium Posted May 1, 2005 Share Posted May 1, 2005 Good instructions. The only problems I had were the hot exhaust near the oil filter (didn't Honda just recall some cars for this?) and the very tight everything. The oil change section in my owner's manual says 5W30, 10W30 and 10W40 are acceptable - and under severe use they allow 20W40 and 20W50. 10W40 developed a bad reputation a while back because (IIRC) it required too much in the way of additives, which were volatile. Maybe this has changed. Anyway, 10W40 is fine according to Subaru. In my '93 I have used Chevron Delo 15W40 for years without incident. That engine has 218K on it, the last 100K or so on Delo only. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarrod Posted June 11, 2005 Share Posted June 11, 2005 Question about this crush washer....if i go to say advance auto parts or autozone...what size etc am i looking for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wukindada Posted June 11, 2005 Share Posted June 11, 2005 Tried to get at advance when I purchased my K&N (oil) filters, they do not carry the crush washer though:( Toyota 6EATS .........SUCK!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarrod Posted June 11, 2005 Share Posted June 11, 2005 well hell Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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