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Oil Change Instructions! With Pics!


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I had a similar experience. I never bothered to change oil on my cars in the past so this was a first time for me as well as my car (2k miles :D ). The stock Subaru filter and the new STP filter I bought has a different notch pattern in them, so the filter socket I bought didn't work on the Subaru one. I wasted over an hour and a half of my life trying to get the damn thing off. It's placement is horrible, between the two manifolds in a tear-drop shape (not sure if it's the same on yours) so I couldn't get any of my strap wrenches and such in there. Finally I swallowed my pride and went to a mechanic buddy of mine and he had a spring loaded auto-adjusting filter socket which took the damn thing out in 2 seconds.

 

And holy crap does that oil squirt out. I got oil all over my glasses and face. Next time I'll be prepared...

 

One thing I noticed was the Subaru filter has a raised metal tube in the center that mates with a tube in the bottom of the engine for oil flow. The new filter I bought at AutoZone doesn't have this tube so they can mate. Is this going to cause engine problems?

 

I was all set to do my first oil change on my '08 Legacy today. I've got the car jacked up, chocks behind the wheels, the oil pan out.. I spent 20 minutes trying to find the plastic cover the manual talks about that doesn't exist. And then I finally found the filter in between the exhaust pipes.

 

For the last hour I've been struggling to get the oil filter off. My hands are raw and chaffed from trying to loosen the over-tightened filter with no maneuvering room! I'm about to give up and call the dealer.

 

Coming from a 1996 Legacy, where I could wiggle under and have everything done in 15 minutes, this is a frustrating change.

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^^^ Purchase an oil filter cap and use a rachet with an extension to get it off. Just did this for my friends 08, and it was a breeze. Good luck.

 

I picked up a Craftsman Adjustable Oil Filter Wrench. That, plus a rubber mallet, a solo cup, and a wrench = first oil change. :)

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Original factory oil filter?

 

I think the reason they crank the filter on so tight at the factory is for liability purposes. Automakers want to make absolutely sure it won't leak a drop.

 

It's a real pain to say the least though to attempt your first oil change as a result. VW and Subaru were like that for me...had to tell the mechanic not to overtighten so I can do the next ones on my own.

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A pipe wrench works for me. It does some damage to the filter, but it definitely gets it done. The keys are getting a little distance below the exhaust pipes, and tha the pipe wrench just gets tighter as you apply torque instead of slipping. All you need to do is loosen it. Then you can switch to the solo cup.
Ich bin echt viel netter, wenn ich nuechtern bin. Echt!
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  • 3 weeks later...

One quick thing to consider would be using a regular 17mm wrench and not a ratchet or better yet by hand and then with a torque wrench. Using a ratchet increases the chance of over tightening the drain plug. I'm not sure about how tight to go, we used to go 25 ft-lbs for all vehicles at the old job (Wonder Lube y0!)

 

BTW nice write up!

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Sound advice. Oil Filter should only be tightened by hand? Not sure if you guys did that at the shop?

 

I finally bought a good floor jack too that will help a lot to get leverage.

 

 

Someone mentioned this in an earlier post, but the best case is hand tight and then 1/4 to 1/2 of a turn with an oil filter wrench.

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  • 4 weeks later...
Thanks for the guide. I used it last Friday night to change the oil out in my Spec. B for the first time. I spent around $120 for all the tools and equipment. I used ramps to provide clearance to get underneath the car. I took the oil cap off before draining the oil. It then took me about 20 minutes to loosen that damn drain plug. Luckily I work out and was able to get it off. I was so worried about the oil gushing out that I held the oil pan (7 qt. capacity) up right near the drain hole. BIG MISTAKE!!! As soon as I took the drain plug out, it almost instantly filled up the oil pan to the lip causing me to spill a whole mess of oil all over the floor, my arm, shirt, and even on my face. Next time, I'll use a different oil pan. Other than that, everything else went smoothly. I did not have a filter wrench and was able to get that off with my hands with no problem. I used 4.5 qts. of Mobil 1 full synthetic and the OEM filter. Next time, I'll use a different oil pan.
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  • 2 weeks later...
Just changed my oil for the 1st time this morning! The oil plug and filter was a bi*ch to remove and I reused the washer. It was pretty easy considering that I replaced my plastic skid plate with the Rallitek plate!

 

Get yourself one of the quick change valves like the Aeroquip from Racer Parts Wholesale. I makes oil changes a snap and relatively mess free since you can put a hose on the drain fitting. Then you don't have to worry about the pesky crush washers anymore either.

 

I've got Aeroquips on both by Subies, I can do both cars now in under 30 minutes.

-Zin

06 LGT LTD GRP 5MT

07 FXT LTD OBP 4EAT

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Get yourself one of the quick change valves like the Aeroquip from Racer Parts Wholesale. I makes oil changes a snap and relatively mess free since you can put a hose on the drain fitting. Then you don't have to worry about the pesky crush washers anymore either.

 

I've got Aeroquips on both by Subies, I can do both cars now in under 30 minutes.

 

How do the Aeroquips compare to the Fujimoto valves? Also what size (diameter) hose do you use?

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I'm really not sure why you guys need extra Fujimoto/Aeroquips valves. I only used two sheets of super absorbent papers towels for my last oil change. I do have a big wide oil catch pan that can hold enough when I change the oil in both my Subby & 4Runner 3.4L. The messiest part for me is typically the oil filter, but now I just loosen it until oil starts to leak out into the pan. Once no more oil is dripping off the filter, I can continue too unscrew it without dripping oil all over the place.

 

Cheers,

Mike

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I'm really not sure why you guys need extra Fujimoto/Aeroquips valves. I only used two sheets of super absorbent papers towels for my last oil change. I do have a big wide oil catch pan that can hold enough when I change the oil in both my Subby & 4Runner 3.4L. The messiest part for me is typically the oil filter, but now I just loosen it until oil starts to leak out into the pan. Once no more oil is dripping off the filter, I can continue too unscrew it without dripping oil all over the place.

 

Cheers,

Mike

 

I can recycle oil curbside where I live, so I prefer the valves with a tube, and I run it straight into an empty milk jug. I can bypass the catch can completely (with the 20 oz solo cup filter glove trick) and save a lot of mess and fussing around. Plus, there's no fighting with a seized oil drain plug, and no need to replace the crush washer.

 

I use 1/4" tubing with my Fumoto valve.

Ich bin echt viel netter, wenn ich nuechtern bin. Echt!
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  • 4 weeks later...
dumb question... but where do you guys take your oil (used)?

 

 

Any AutoZone, pep boys, checker/krager/schucks will take used motor oil, tranny fluid, coolant/antifreeze, brake fluid... just about and car fluid needing disposal off.

 

No such thing as a dumb question... unless it's a question you already know the answer to and you are just asking me to piss me off!:p

 

F!

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  • 3 weeks later...

I didn't read through 17 pages of this thread, but the information in the OP is slightly misleading. It says that the legacy takes 4.2 quarts of oil. This is misleading because this is only if you are not changing the filter. The manual says 4.2 for some insane reason as well. I followed the instructions with the oil change and when I checked the dipstick, it was nearly dry. I filled it with about 4.6 quarts and then it was where it should be. So I did some research and found on amsoil's website some great info for the car and the fact that the car, when changing out the filter as well, does in fact take 4.6 quarts of oil, NOT 4.2. I don't know why the manual would be so vague and misleading. Sorry if this was already covered in this thread, just thought it would be useful for people who change their own oil based on this DIY and are running low if they don't check the stick. Here is the link, check it out:

 

http://www.amsoil.com/scripts/runisa.dll?amsoiloaf.:rightpanel:981905035:legac,su,e,7168

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I can recycle oil curbside where I live, so I prefer the valves with a tube, and I run it straight into an empty milk jug. I can bypass the catch can completely (with the 20 oz solo cup filter glove trick) and save a lot of mess and fussing around. Plus, there's no fighting with a seized oil drain plug, and no need to replace the crush washer.

 

I use 1/4" tubing with my Fumoto valve.

 

Yes I just used the solo cup trick for the first time yesterday. Worked perfect whomever thought of that is a genius.

 

There was some leakage onto the manifold pipes caused by slow drainage. I wiped the oil off the pipes and it prevented any smoke/smell on start-up.

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I didn't read through 17 pages of this thread, but the information in the OP is slightly misleading. It says that the legacy takes 4.2 quarts of oil. This is misleading because this is only if you are not changing the filter. The manual says 4.2 for some insane reason as well. I followed the instructions with the oil change and when I checked the dipstick, it was nearly dry. I filled it with about 4.6 quarts and then it was where it should be. So I did some research and found on amsoil's website some great info for the car and the fact that the car, when changing out the filter as well, does in fact take 4.6 quarts of oil, NOT 4.2. I don't know why the manual would be so vague and misleading. Sorry if this was already covered in this thread, just thought it would be useful for people who change their own oil based on this DIY and are running low if they don't check the stick. Here is the link, check it out:

 

http://www.amsoil.com/scripts/runisa.dll?amsoiloaf.:rightpanel:981905035:legac,su,e,7168

 

I've used anywhere from 4.2 to 4.8, always filling the filter first from the first quart of oil. I think it is too variable to condemn the OP for inaccuracy when you're working from a sample size of n=1.

Ich bin echt viel netter, wenn ich nuechtern bin. Echt!
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I didn't read through 17 pages of this thread, but the information in the OP is slightly misleading. It says that the legacy takes 4.2 quarts of oil. This is misleading because this is only if you are not changing the filter. The manual says 4.2 for some insane reason as well.

 

 

I agree with ^. Plus, if you read your post you state that the dipstick was nearly dry w/4.2 and was right on with 4.6. It sounds to me like you needed to let things settle as the dipstick (from the low hole to the high hole) is supposed to be 1 quart. All things considered, this is a minute detail, and I'd agree with the 4.2 first and check it later b/c overfilling would be more of a pain IMO.

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You can absolutely do your own changes. I recommend keeping your oil receipts and buying your OEM filters from the dealership nearest you, keeping those receipts as well.
Ich bin echt viel netter, wenn ich nuechtern bin. Echt!
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