psucaptainkickass

Man , since 69! They probably have seen the place change so much over time! I had a 2005 LGT and put 165k on it. Sold it last October. Definitely a fun car , but Subaru lost me with the way the styling and lack of GT model in the current lineup. Plus , rattles.

Key thing here is that for the sway bar , it is better to take the weight off the suspension to work those brackets. Either use ramps to keep the suspension compressed or take the wheels off of you are using jack stands. Then you can use your jack to compress the shock as much as you need to get the bolts to line up

Cool. I get that a higher cell cat will reduce the smell for sure. I wouldn't be surprised though if the CNT did indeed pass emissions. If I remember correctly, MD is a idle sniffer test state. Just make sure the car is warmed up to operating temperatures, and it should pass just fine at idle. What does OBDII compliant mean anyways? Does that mean you won't pull a CEL without tuning?

What does being an OBDII compliant cat mean? Why does it even matter? I have a feeling that there is some kool-aid being drank here claiming that one catted DP is "better for the environment" than another DP. I'll give you that there are differences in the quality of cats...that's always going to be the case when they come from different manufacturers. But what metric is being used to determine "better for the environment". Anyways you look at it, that GrimmSpeed DP is modifying the emissions system and removing one cat in the downpipe from a system that was designed to have two cats in the DP. The claim that it is 49-state legal is dubious...no where on the Grimmspeed website does it state that. The website does state: "GrimmSpeed aftermarket downpipes modify OEM emissions control devices and are intended only for off-road racing applications." Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying don't go with a catted downpipe...but if you're replacing a perfectly good catted DP with another catted DP for the reasons stated, I feel that's a lot of work for zero gain. Unless I have missed something entirely.

Brand new, sealed Xbox ONE Day One for sale: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fs-xbox-one-day-one-cost-218224.html Selling it not for profit. Pics of sealed device incoming this evening

ipad air for sale: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fs-nova-ipad-air-16-gb-brand-new-217853.html

I notice you are in Bmore...is it convienent at all to get to Gaithersburg? I have no vested interest in DPS Tuning, other than getting great service there for my clutch job and timing belt job, at a great price. To do the belt, idlers, tensioner, water pump, thermostat, and gaskets my TOTAL was right around $960. That is HALF what your dealer is asking for. Not sure if you need a coolant flush? Since I had recently completed my 90k service, I believe DPS just dumped my coolant and reused it since it was good. Anyways, if going to Gaithersburg is good for you, I suggest giving them a ring.

So I am dropping this off to be done tonight... In addition to the belt, these items are recommended to be replaced too: Water Pump Thermostat Timing Belt Tensioner The 4 Idler Pullies (If they look bad) My question is... The Water Pump I know of, I will replace that. And the Timing Belt Tensioner, I will replace that too. What about the T-Stat...is that necessary, or is it of such marginal cost, that it just makes sense to replace it anyways? The pullies i'm at the mercy of the shop..."if they look bad"

Awesome job! Can't wait to seemore!

I'm in the same boat here ...56k and counting...squeaky seat just came back. I had it a couple of years ago, but after i adjusted the seat it went away...now its back.

Sorry, Utica Michigan

I was up in the Utica, Michigan area this past weekend on M-59 Ran into a RBP LGT. Debadged (had some badge on the back...couldn't tell what tho, definitely wasn't stock), rims, RBS grill in the front. I was the SWP, w/ Hids, Yellow Fogs, Rims, Tint, Debadged.

Alright, I am taking the metaphor too far... I just the smaller version of the "pix". The one that outlines all the part numbers. Any help?

Does anyone know where the smaller vacation pix are? The one that provide all the detail on the souveniers I could buy on the trip? I need to find a specific souvenier and the large version only describes how the souveniers work together, not how I can order them.

Right but getting rid of the gap that way will result in the piece not fitting right...right below the gap. The curved section on the passenger side won't fit right. If you push down on it, that piece fits but the gap remains! Mishapen parts for the loss!

^ +1

I really think this comes down to the installer as someone mentioned earlier. I have had the new part put in, and it didn't fix squat. It was better at first but overall in the end the gap came back. After putting the 06 HU in, the gap was gone. I'll chalk it up to dumb luck because I wasn't aiming to fix the gap.

Update...gap is still gone. 06 Headunit/me ripping things apart and seemingly putting them back in the right order ftw.

Maybe you could check the ECU part number with Cobb. It is possible that you may need it updated from Cobb. Probably because the AP itself is running old software.

Replaced...no problem.

I believe...that the CEL won't trip for awhile. When you flash, you are reseting all the sensors. The car needs to be driven for awhile for the sensors to gather enough data to accurately report something. I was concerned about this as well. If you have a CEL thrown that is legitimate and something that is persistant, clearing with the AP will only remove for a period of time before it comes back again (indicating a persistant problem). But the point is, the CEL is initially removed...but then returns. It doesn't return immediately, because the sensors need enough input to register a fault.

Yeah I just unmarried it in the dealer lot, like msb suggested. I did that on the off chance that they had ECUs in stock and didn't call me before the swap out. My fan circuit is fine and the fan isn't constantly on, so this is a precaution more than anything. VtspecB...you would need to unmarry the AP from the ECU. Reason being, the AP can only be hooked up to one ECU at a time. Unmarrying it isn't to get the car past the dealer, its to make sure that you can still use your AP if the dealer changes out the ECU. Anyways...its at the dealer now...and they are going to look into my squeaky clutch pedal as well...finally... (I rarely go to the dealer )

Yeah I am just going to take it in. AP in my backpack just in case ..if they have to swap out the ecu, I'll tell them I will bring it back (they probably won't have ecus in stock anyways)