ClimberDHexMods Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 On my other cars, I just pull a cooler line and have my wife run the car for 2 seconds and see which end ATF comes out of Works like a charm. Plenty of places to intercept the AT cooler lines. http://static.opposedforces.com/epc_img/366495145006.png By process of elimination, it's the line that goes direct from the trans to the radiator. That's the line to tap into (hot line). Then it goes from radiator to filter. http://static.opposedforces.com/epc_img/366495115409.png #3 is the filter inlet, from the radiator to the filter, #7 is the filter outlet, from filter to transmission. Look at the filter next to the battery to determine the fluid flow direction. If a line goes into or out of the filter, don't tap into it; those are the cool side lines, which is probably a bad place to tap into the line. YES, PLEASE would be much appreciated, driving the same-ish route the same-ish way in same-ish traffic and temperature, please measure 2 different things: 1) For both setups: How long (in minutes) it takes to go from completely ambient temperature, to 170*F ish. I want to know whether the pre-radiator cooler will significantly slow down warm-up time. 2) Report the peak temps and general temps you see when driving around fully warmed up. Try both normal driving, and then try to get it as warm as you can (have fun, don't do anything dangerous). In both situations, very important to note ambient air temperature (from your dash LCD display). This would be a beneficial report to the community in helping determine a good cooler setup. [CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted March 23, 2012 Moderators Share Posted March 23, 2012 OK, got it. I'll do my best to do that. Will take a couple of long logs during my normal commute (normal traffic light type warm up time, onto hwy cruising about 70 while everything continues to get warmed up, then traffic). Shortly before I get to work every day the road opens up a bit, if I just let the engine rev a bit higher will this increase the temp or does the trans actually have to be shifting to increase temp? "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted March 23, 2012 Mega Users Share Posted March 23, 2012 You'll get the highest temps from low rpm pulls when the revs shoot up to 3500 and sit there at wot for a while. 3rd or 4th gear pulls from 2k rpm will do that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 i think my hoses are reversed going into the radiator, meh. never have an issue with the tranny tho Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bravofox Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 On my other cars, I just pull a cooler line and have my wife run the car for 2 seconds and see which end ATF comes out of Works like a charm. Plenty of places to intercept the AT cooler lines. http://static.opposedforces.com/epc_img/366495145006.png By process of elimination, it's the line that goes direct from the trans to the radiator. That's the line to tap into (hot line). Then it goes from radiator to filter. http://static.opposedforces.com/epc_img/366495115409.png #3 is the filter inlet, from the radiator to the filter, #7 is the filter outlet, from filter to transmission. Look at the filter next to the battery to determine the fluid flow direction. If a line goes into or out of the filter, don't tap into it; those are the cool side lines, which is probably a bad place to tap into the line. YES, PLEASE would be much appreciated, driving the same-ish route the same-ish way in same-ish traffic and temperature, please measure 2 different things: 1) For both setups: How long (in minutes) it takes to go from completely ambient temperature, to 170*F ish. I want to know whether the pre-radiator cooler will significantly slow down warm-up time. 2) Report the peak temps and general temps you see when driving around fully warmed up. Try both normal driving, and then try to get it as warm as you can (have fun, don't do anything dangerous). In both situations, very important to note ambient air temperature (from your dash LCD display). This would be a beneficial report to the community in helping determine a good cooler setup. ^ should this read: #3 is the filter inlet, from the transmission to the filter, #7 is the filter outlet, from filter to radiator. putting the filter before the radiator? i'm not doubting dave's knowledge, and stand corrected in advance and apologize for any confusion if i'm mistaken, but i just want to be sure. i'm in the middle of installing an aux. cooler and looking at the lines on the car, as well as these diagrams, that's how i understood it. of course, with no turbo on the the car i can't start it to verify the flow myself... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimberDHexMods Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 I believe the way I wrote it is correct. [CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm200 Posted April 27, 2012 Share Posted April 27, 2012 Going stage 2 soon and want to install a tranny cooler and temp gauge. I was looking to install the cooler before the radiator instead of after like this DIY. Going to use the Tru Cool 4454 without a thermostat first since it will be pre-radiator. I’ll be doing the gauge to keep an eye on temps and see if I’m ok without the thermostat. The last picture, on page 3 of the install guide in this thread, two hoses are pictured. It is stated that the hose to the right is the return line. Is the one right next to it to the left in the picture the exit line from the transmission which goes to the radiator? Is it as simple as just hooking up the cooler to the left hose to get it before the radiator? Also, how is everyone installing the gauge, tapping the pan or using the drain bolt? Any link to a drain bolt and fitting that would work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted April 28, 2012 Moderators Share Posted April 28, 2012 I just did this install and originally planned to install "pre-radiator" as well. I was going to log temps before and after the install but found that I needed to add a temp gauge, which I didn't have. I ended up installing it in the "normal" fashion. I don't think I can describe it exactly, but when you get under there you'll see where everything flows. ClimberD's diagrams should help as well. If you're in doubt, get someone to help by starting the car for a second so you can see where fluid is flowing in / out. Good luck, in for results if you can post them up. If you can install your temp gauge and do some logging of the temps before the install that would be awesome. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm200 Posted April 29, 2012 Share Posted April 29, 2012 After searching for a few hours, I found an adapter plug to use with a DEFI gauge with the sensor through the drain plug. Was feeling pretty good about finding it until I stumbled upon a thread started by ClimberD. LINK to that thread incase anyone reading here was curious where to tap for a gauge. Great thread!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 I haven't street raced anyone in a long-ass time. I think I'm safe to pull the cooler So where are we providing the data points for temps etc? Here or the 5EAT Pride thread? I'm thinking here is the appropriate thread. I'll start. I have a TruCool 4452 hooked up after the rad. Using Amsoil synthetic ATF, IPT valve body. Normal traffic driving at 82*F ambient and high humidity temps were at 72*C/~167*F I'll continue to report back as I test around under other conditions. I so wish the damn APv2 would be able to log the ATF temp sensors. So much easier than lugging around an ancient pentab This winter with temps at around 36*F ATF was persistently at around 134*F and the tranny shifts like shit. Slips ups and has trouble locking the gear due to, I think, higher viscosity Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 Drove somewhat like an asshat yesterday traffic permitting, nothing too asinine. A few 3rd gear pulls, generally kept it out of torque lock-up, manual mode, a few pulls in high gear at low revs, even did a 3rd to 4th shift under wot. 67*F ambient, pan temps were at 75*C and tq output spiked 82*C a couple of times. This leads me to believe I will need to get a thermostat rather than take out the cooler. Once temps climb even more (and we do get summers above 90*F and high humidity on a regular basis) I don't see how the temps would be any better than above. The pentab I am using is a Fujitsu Stylistic 3400 which came out sometime in 2000 and the original battery on it still holds a 2:30 hour charge. I have no idea how. I've never had a recharbeable battery last 12 years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwm5094 Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 Bump for this thread. I started doing some temp logging and will update this as I complete more. Before I started my car this morning the ATF temp was 86 F, I drove down 395 with no traffic for about 5 miles to work, temp readings were at 163.4 F when I was parked. I am going to a meet tonight and I will be able to drive more aggressively. Will update with results.... All of this logging is without a trans cooler, I am going to log temp readings in the same scenarios with the cooler at a later time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwm5094 Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 Also, upon further research, why would you want the temps around 195 F? Look at the pic at the top of the link. http://www.haydenauto.com/upload/HaydenAuto/Documents/Cat_Hayden/2007-hayden-trans-oil-coolers.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwm5094 Posted July 17, 2012 Share Posted July 17, 2012 After a few red lines, nothing even close to hard driving I got 203 F. Seems like its overheating to me. http://img.tapatalk.com/c6e4c892-d423-5c59.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted July 17, 2012 Mega Users Share Posted July 17, 2012 What are your mods? That's not overheating. That's hot, but not dangerous. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwm5094 Posted July 17, 2012 Share Posted July 17, 2012 Stg 2.5 basically everything without a turbo upgrade, I also have the F1 VB. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwm5094 Posted July 18, 2012 Share Posted July 18, 2012 Getting dangerous now? Temps after bedding my brakes. Still not aggressive driving by my standards. http://img.tapatalk.com/c6e4c897-20c5-b9e8.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted July 18, 2012 Mega Users Share Posted July 18, 2012 I'm guessing that you did back to back pulls? Spend a lot of time at high throttle in the 3-3.5k range? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwm5094 Posted July 18, 2012 Share Posted July 18, 2012 I would accelerate to 35 and step on the brake. I did this about 10 times and then checked the temp. I'm not saying I took my time getting to 35 but I wouldn't consider it a pull. It was pretty warm outside though. I didn't pay a lot of attention to the rpms but sounds accurate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted July 19, 2012 Share Posted July 19, 2012 105*C is 221*F, which is too hot for my taste. It doesn't sound like you drove it that hard. Might wanna think about a cooler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwm5094 Posted July 19, 2012 Share Posted July 19, 2012 Just got it in the mail today . I'm going to give the car a good run tomorrow and post the temps. After, I will install the cooler, and do highway temps, semi aggressive driving temps, and aggressive temps. Maybe not all in one day though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted July 19, 2012 Mega Users Share Posted July 19, 2012 I didn't realize you didn't have a cooler. Those numbers make sense now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SATSFYD Posted July 19, 2012 Share Posted July 19, 2012 ^ Same here. I thought you had one (cooler) on already. **There are two types of people in the world, those who build horsepower and those who buy it. Which one are you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted July 19, 2012 Share Posted July 19, 2012 Just got it in the mail today . I'm going to give the car a good run tomorrow and post the temps. After, I will install the cooler, and do highway temps, semi aggressive driving temps, and aggressive temps. Maybe not all in one day though. Thanks for being willing to do this. I for one want to see what kind of impact a cooler has and you might save me the hassle of trying to disconnect mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwm5094 Posted July 19, 2012 Share Posted July 19, 2012 No problem. Hopefully I'll get some solid numbers ASAP. I got the cooler installed today and on the drive home (pretty heavy traffic and I was driving pretty hard when I could) in 103 degree weather. Coolant temp was bouncing in between 210 and 217. Oil temp was 217. ATF Temp was 88C so 190F. So far so good. I'm very happy with the ATF temp at that level of driving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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