TRS Posted August 31, 2008 Share Posted August 31, 2008 I got the barbed coupler and small hose clamps at Ace Hardware. Any place with plumbing supplies should have them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leonardo Posted October 19, 2008 Share Posted October 19, 2008 Any idea if I could use the car if I did the install without adding fluid? I forgot to get some last week and had it planned for today. I have the Hays 677 which ain't that big. (Med size if I recall.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted October 19, 2008 Share Posted October 19, 2008 Any idea if I could use the car if I did the install without adding fluid? I forgot to get some last week and had it planned for today. I have the Hays 677 which ain't that big. (Med size if I recall.) Depending what you classify as "use", but if it's daily driving, I wouldn't. Adding together the volume of the extra hosing, and the cooler itself, you'd be removing (redistributing) 1/2-3/4 quart, maybe more, from the transmission pan. Autoboxes need all the cooling/operating fluid they can get. YMMV. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leonardo Posted October 20, 2008 Share Posted October 20, 2008 Going to get the fluid first in the other car then. Thanks dude! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leonardo Posted October 21, 2008 Share Posted October 21, 2008 Well, I installed it and managed to nick the AC Condenser. Now I have to look for a repair place that will weld that little nick cuz if not, I have to shell out like 140. for a replacement cuz I'm not getting the 250.+ for an OEM one. also, didn't find my long funnel to top off the fluid so I'm in the minivan on my way to get one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted October 22, 2008 Share Posted October 22, 2008 Well, I installed it and managed to nick the AC Condenser. Now I have to look for a repair place that will weld that little nick cuz if not, I have to shell out like 140. for a replacement cuz I'm not getting the 250.+ for an OEM one. also, didn't find my long funnel to top off the fluid so I'm in the minivan on my way to get one. Leo - sorry about that - that suxors man - and then, once you get it reinstalled, you have to fully recharge the AC system which won't be cheap. That was an expensive upgrade. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leonardo Posted October 22, 2008 Share Posted October 22, 2008 damn right! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captainhook Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 Ok guys, I need some advice . . . I went stage 2 two weeks ago and I'm definitely going to buy a trans cooler. You could say I run my car hard, but do not abuse it. (no loaded launches / N-D drops) I live in PA, so temperatures between 15-100 degrees are seen throughout the year. Which cooler do you recommend and why? I would prefer something easy to install if that's not asking too much. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim1969 Posted December 7, 2008 Share Posted December 7, 2008 Tru Cool 4454. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gusgusdude Posted December 7, 2008 Share Posted December 7, 2008 I used a B&M cooler and installed it just like JIM on this page http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17293&page=7&highlight=transmission+cooler Its a perfect place to install it and it does not touch the other rad so it works at optimal performance You will need to buy some more hose and clamps and some assorted nuts and bolts and don't forget to get extra fluid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcsquish Posted January 6, 2009 Share Posted January 6, 2009 Well I'm finally starting to think about installing a cooler. I tried following the links for the PDF, but both are dead. Could someone PM it to me? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
25gtrbo Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 link was dead for me as well and id like to view it too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Opie Posted January 8, 2009 Author Share Posted January 8, 2009 It's still there: Transmission Cooler Install.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcsquish Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 Thanks Opie! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
civic2scooby Posted January 11, 2009 Share Posted January 11, 2009 Ok, I just read this entire thread on trans coolers and didn't once see the mention of a remote oil thermost. There is such a thing as overcooled ATF. ATF runs optimally at a range between 180-210 degrees. Above 210 and especially into 230+ ATF starts to degrade. I have had a cooler on previous applications and a 180F oil thermostat should be on everybodies list if you are doing an install. If you over cool it to even 160F it starts to severely effect the flow characterisics of the ATF and will cause more harm than good. The design on the Tru-Cool with the bypass is nice but I wouldn't trust something as important as trans temps with just that. Sadly this will add about 90 bucks to the project which I know removes it from the "cheap insurance" catagory but I figured I would toss in my 2 cents on the topic. I just bought my new to me LGT Limited and will be doing a trans cooler install with thermostat in the next couple weeks. I will be sure to put up some pics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcsquish Posted January 11, 2009 Share Posted January 11, 2009 "Thicker oil that is below the ideal operating temperature bypasses the cooler through the upper two plates. When the temperature rises, it becomes thin enough to pass through the entire cooler. TRU-COOL's superior heat transfer is efficient & automatic." I didn't think a thermostat would be needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
civic2scooby Posted January 11, 2009 Share Posted January 11, 2009 "Thicker oil that is below the ideal operating temperature bypasses the cooler through the upper two plates. When the temperature rises, it becomes thin enough to pass through the entire cooler. TRU-COOL's superior heat transfer is efficient & automatic." I didn't think a thermostat would be needed. all it uses is a basic orifice bypass, I like the concept, but lack the trust in its ability to maintain a constant temperature like a dedicate thermostat. People running the Hayden should def. be looking into a thermostat as it is just a straight cooler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimberDHexMods Posted February 8, 2009 Share Posted February 8, 2009 all it uses is a basic orifice bypass, I like the concept, but lack the trust in its ability to maintain a constant temperature like a dedicate thermostat. People running the Hayden should def. be looking into a thermostat as it is just a straight cooler. This is old, already posted info, but may be new to some people on this thread: B&M Transmission Thermostat http://www.coximport.com/b_&_m/BMR-70259 "B&M’s Remote Engine Oil Thermostat will help maintain proper oil temperatures required in today’s high performance vehicles outfitted with auxiliary oil coolers. A must for street driven vehicles. When oil temperature is below 180o F, the valve bypasses 90% of the oil, allowing 10% to flow through the cooler to prevent possible air pockets. Above 180o F, the valve opens fully and flows 90% through the cooler." My other bit of old information is that you should consider having your thermostat go into the drain pan plug bung instead of the external cooler lines, as I heard someone say that is where the temperature is more representative of the system temp. It's senseless to go WOT if you aren't pretty certain that your ATF temp is in a safe range. I consider it way more important than an oil temp or oil pressure gauge, because our engines self regulate pretty well in reasonable conditions (not talking about track), and warm up to operating temp before the 5eat does. Also for what it's worth, I switched to Amsoil ATF, and love it and recommend it. Based on a decent knowledge of synthetic automotive lubricants, I'm confident it is a good product for our transmission situation (though I do not know to what extent it may benefit over Subi ATF). Amsoil is not the kind of company to be wrong about its use on our cars (those guys are real data junkies, and didn't just make up the fact that it's now compatible for our 5EAT). [CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimberDHexMods Posted February 8, 2009 Share Posted February 8, 2009 That B&M thermostat is also cheaper elsewhere online, but I see no reason why Long's temp regulation feature wouldn't be good enough (note didn't say as good or as accurate as the B&M). Edit: Oh and IPT only sells Long Tru-Cool coolers, last time I checked. Those guys are a bit obsessive (in the way you would want for your car). [CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimberDHexMods Posted February 8, 2009 Share Posted February 8, 2009 Can anyone confirm the size of the 5EAT Transmission Drain Plug (thread size)? At a glance, I thought it may be smaller than the M20x1.5 engine oil drain plug, but can't find anything online verifying it either way. [CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert Posted February 24, 2009 Share Posted February 24, 2009 Finally installed the Tru-cool 4454 yesterday. No leaks and less that 2 oz. of spilled fluid. Thanks for the walk through! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrjk77 Posted March 4, 2009 Share Posted March 4, 2009 tru cool 4454 is on its way. wooohooo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTTuner Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 The instructions need to be revised!!!! Step 9 and 10. Do not reuse the factory clamp. It will leak. I suggest niot using any of the worm clamps since the need constant tightening. EFI clamps this style . http://legacygt.com/forums/Image1.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim1969 Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 ^no pic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piripi Posted April 30, 2009 Share Posted April 30, 2009 Just ordered a Tru Cool 4543 the fin and plate design, also ordered some BG additive. Could I replace the lost fluid with additive alone???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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