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How to: Transmission Cooler Installation

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ClimberDHexMods Grand Master

ClimberDHexMods

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^^^ I can never for the life of me remember the hose ID, but yes that derale thermostat works well. Some people have trouble fitting it, but if you can install a remote oil filter, you can definitely install this.
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HellShadow70 Collaborator

HellShadow70

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I installed mine this weekend without the bracket.. Seeing yours I think I'm going to have to pick one up. Was it hard to tap into the body of the car to mount it?

 

not hard at all. use the 10mm bolt that holds the lines on the top of the bracket and drill a 3/16 hole on the other side. then use one of the four sheet metal screws provided.

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BlackBird97 Contributor

BlackBird97

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not hard at all. use the 10mm bolt that holds the lines on the top of the bracket and drill a 3/16 hole on the other side. then use one of the four sheet metal screws provided.

 

Awesome thanks man, is it a universal bracket for the tstat? I tried searching amazon and I couldn't find anything specific to the Derale 13011.

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  • 4 months later...
mwm5094 Proficient

mwm5094

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OK, here you go. I spelled "FINISH" wrong, but what're you gonna do :lol:

 

I routed my setup so that the system would act as stock under normal circumstances. The Derale thermostat was set to completely open at 180*. Basically the ATF would route normally through the radiator and then to the thermostat. If temp is high enough, some or all of the fluid will pass through the thermostat and through the external cooler before going back to the transmission. When the fluid is cold the thermostat will just turn the fluid back around and send it right back to the transmission.

 

I wanted to include the radiator as it is because of the theory that the radiator will actually act to help cold fluid heat up a bit faster during the colder times of the year.

 

Hope this helps!

 

Bumping this thread.

 

I just had a few concerns now that I have everything needed to install my 13011.

 

Before I got the part, I pictured it in my head that the 13011 would re-route the trans fluid (thermostat closed) from one input to one output (both on the same side of the 13011) under 180 degrees and that it would "open the door" if you will above 180 making two nice channels for the fluid to flow through aka following the lines on the body of it.

 

When I opened the box, I saw that this wasn't the case, and that the "USA" side clearly can flow right through under 180.

 

When reading the directions, Derale wants you to interrupt both tranny lines so there is equal input and output pressure inside the 13011 in order to stop flow. I get that. My question is, following BMB's diagram, we are only interrupting the return line. Which would not cause equal pressure inside the 13011, which in my head would not make this function properly. My concern is that with the way we would run this, two things would happen. We would either starve the return line back it to the trans or since this isn't installed to the manufactures instructions (not interrupting both lines), it would still flow into the cooler and back into the trans making installing this useless.

 

How is everyone else holding up? Am I wrong and someone can shed some light to clear this up for me? Has anyone monitored temps before and after?

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ClimberDHexMods Grand Master

ClimberDHexMods

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I'm not sure I know exactly what you are describing, but I can describe it like this: the thermostat has two modes.

Closed (cold) means the fluid In does a 180 back out. The other side does nothing, fluid sits still and waits in the cooler.

Open (hot) means the fluid goes straight through one line in (side A) and out the other side (.B.), then through the cooler, then back in on Side B's other port, then out through Side A's other port. That help?

 

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mwm5094 Proficient

mwm5094

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Closed (cold) means the fluid In does a 180 back out. The other side does nothing, fluid sits still and waits in the cooler.

 

This right here is my only concern. Per Derale's directions, this is NOT how the thermostat operates. At least that isnt how I am interpreting it. Their words are,

 

"How It Works:

When the oil is cool the valve is in the open

position, allowing oil to be applied equally to

both the inlet and outlet of the cooler,

preventing oil flow through the cooler. As the

oil temperature approaches 180ºF the valve

begins to close, forcing all of the oil to flow

through the cooler and return through the

valve to the source."

 

So to me, it seems like the fluid is just at a standstill when it is cold (raising my concern of starving the trans of oil), and then when it is hot, it opens up and works just like the way you said.

 

If you look at the thermostat not hooked up, Side A (the cold side) you can see right through. Which also raises my concern about the fluid doing a 180 and returning out side B properly when cold.

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BarManBean Grand Master

BarManBean

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Interesting. I logged the temps briefly with my setup but honestly don't recall the numbers other than think "well, seems to be working".

 

If you want, the guy that bought my car is local and pretty involved in the Subie community--one of the DCAWD guys. I'm sure I could put you guys in touch and you can possibly get him to log some temps and what not. AFAIK, he's been running the same setup, but who knows--maybe he changed something.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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BarManBean Grand Master

BarManBean

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I may want to talk to him. I am going to install me AEM trans temp gauge on Wednesday, drive around for a few days and note the temps. Then I will install the thermostat and see if anything changes.

 

Pretty sure they have their meets on Tuesdays at hard times, might be worth heading over there.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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BarManBean Grand Master

BarManBean

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PM me your email also, I'll send a quick email to include both of you and you can talk. If he's still running the same setup I would imagine it's probably working well given the timeline, but either way if there's something to be improved I'm sure he would like to know about it as well.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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ClimberDHexMods Grand Master

ClimberDHexMods

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This right here is my only concern. Per Derale's directions, this is NOT how the thermostat operates. At least that isnt how I am interpreting it. Their words are,

 

"How It Works:

When the oil is cool the valve is in the open

position, allowing oil to be applied equally to

both the inlet and outlet of the cooler,

preventing oil flow through the cooler. As the

oil temperature approaches 180ºF the valve

begins to close, forcing all of the oil to flow

through the cooler and return through the

valve to the source."

 

So to me, it seems like the fluid is just at a standstill when it is cold (raising my concern of starving the trans of oil), and then when it is hot, it opens up and works just like the way you said.

 

If you look at the thermostat not hooked up, Side A (the cold side) you can see right through. Which also raises my concern about the fluid doing a 180 and returning out side B properly when cold.

 

Ah I see what you are saying. When the fluid is cold, the 180 back should still be open. I like the way derale plumbed their thermostat. Clever, compact. You can test it by blowing on one side, while the two opposite ends are plugged or looped. Should still have airflow.

 

This verifies that, though not as clear as you would like:

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=170317&stc=1&d=1387309787

 

This shows how it's indeed going to work fine in both modes:

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=170318&stc=1&d=1387309787

927428.thumb.jpg.288a62a51c4b84401610ae8d07fd40a6.jpg

Oil_Trans_Thermostat.jpg.2e4791eca89ac830c1763377bcbb1cb4.jpg

[CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER]
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  • 2 weeks later...
mwm5094 Proficient

mwm5094

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So I got the AEM trans temp gauge in a few days ago but havent been able to drive the car until this morning. I just went to the bank and back (about a 5 mile round trip with stop lights). The highest temp I saw was 135 and that was when the car was at idle so I def think I am overcooling big time. Everytime I stopped the temp got higher and everytime I started driving (nothing over 45) the temp went down. I was actually really impressed by how fast the temps dropped, I saw it go back down to 97 within a mile.

 

I havent been on the highway but I can only suspect with more airflow the temps would be lower. Also, the car didnt go above 2500rpm so I know the trans wasnt producing much heat either.

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