leighos Posted November 27, 2016 Share Posted November 27, 2016 Yes bushings, when torqued at the factory they are zeroed at kerb weight, allowing a few degrees of arm deflection in either direction. When you lower your ride height the bushings will require re-zeroing so they can again have that same range of deflection, if not done they will be fighting against the weight of the car and suspension travel wearing out faster or even tearing. Its especially important with the rear given there are so many bushings, 8 per side compared to only 1 at the front! Sent from my ZUK Z1 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dohclgt Posted November 27, 2016 Share Posted November 27, 2016 Yes bushings, when torqued at the factory they are zeroed at kerb weight, allowing a few degrees of arm deflection in either direction. When you lower your ride height the bushings will require re-zeroing so they can again have that same range of deflection, if not done they will be fighting against the weight of the car and suspension travel wearing out faster or even tearing. Its especially important with the rear given there are so many bushings, 8 per side compared to only 1 at the front! Sent from my ZUK Z1 using Tapatalk Crap, I didn't know about this at all. Can you please explain exactly how you did it? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leighos Posted November 27, 2016 Share Posted November 27, 2016 So just after you have done your spring install, go around and undo every nut/bolt that hold a bushing. On the front, its just the LCA front bush. On the rear you have 2 on the UCA, 3 on the LCA (plus sway bar end link),2 on the trailing arm and one on the toe link (that would get done on alignment anyway). Tighten them all up snug, but NOT torqued. Put the wheels back on and car back on the ground, drive forwards and backwards a few times to let it all settle, I usually tap the brakes a bit to allow some compression. Now the hard part, with the car at kerb weight, drive it up on some ramps (I drive mine up on a car trailer) and go around and torque them all up! Sent from my ZUK Z1 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bootyologist Posted November 27, 2016 Share Posted November 27, 2016 Crap, I didn't know about this at all. Can you please explain exactly how you did it? Thanks I've never heard this either. GTeaser, any insight on this? Sent from my XT1053 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brandon.mol Posted November 27, 2016 Share Posted November 27, 2016 This makes sense for rubber bushings with a fixed steel sleeve that rely on the rubber twisting to enable movement. Any bushings that actually rotate are immune to this issue. For example, if you have oem Rubber sway bar bushings you may need to do this to those. If you have PU bushings with grease, then it's a non issue. I don't know about the various control arm bushings. Are the oem Rubber bushing sleeves clamped in or allowed to rotate? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leighos Posted November 27, 2016 Share Posted November 27, 2016 All the OEM bushings I mentioned are bonded solid rubber with internal steel sleeve. Sent from my ZUK Z1 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted November 28, 2016 Author Share Posted November 28, 2016 Leighos is right, this probably should be done, but no one ever does it. Even shops don't. It's only a good idea with bonded rubber bushing like stock bushings, not necessary on hard poly bushings, pillow balls, or spherical rod ends. So many of us, NASIOC members, and other brand enthusiasts, and even respected shops, have lowered cars and never done this that it probably isn't really a big deal and I have never heard of an issue directly related to not doing this bushing "zeroing". This is honestly the first I have heard of someone actually doing this. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timothy.B Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 *writes this down* Timothy.B's 2011 LEGACY 3.6R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moozlee Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 Hi sir My car is 2013 SUBARU Legacy wagon 2.5i. Could I use KONI inserts parts , the parts No. is 8610 1447(fort) and 8010 1053(rear) because my car’s original shock brand is KYB. Thanks a lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leighos Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 Hi sir My car is 2013 SUBARU Legacy wagon 2.5i. Could I use KONI inserts parts , the parts No. is 8610 1447(fort) and 8010 1053(rear) because my car’s original shock brand is KYB. Thanks a lot. No those part numbers suit the 4th gen (BL & BP) Sent from my ZUK Z1 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moozlee Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 Dear sir Please let me know about KONI inserts suit the 5th(BR & BM) parts number. I very like KONI shock's performance , But I do'not know where to start. Thanks a lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gforce13 Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 Dear sir Please let me know about KONI inserts suit the 5th(BR & BM) parts number. I very like KONI shock's performance , But I do'not know where to start. Thanks a lot. For the 5th gen the Koni numbers are 8610 1453SPORT(front) and 8010 1055(rear) This info is found in the first post of this thread by Gteaser. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MySubieII Posted December 1, 2016 Share Posted December 1, 2016 BEFORE--- http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161201/7358a376468b64ace853a5a6ca6ecfe6.jpg AFTER---http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161201/b878e8c49fdcc1019202ee296666ccd2.jpg Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MySubieII Posted December 1, 2016 Share Posted December 1, 2016 Thanks GTEASER Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted December 1, 2016 Author Share Posted December 1, 2016 Looks great! How do you like the ride? Which springs again? GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MySubieII Posted December 1, 2016 Share Posted December 1, 2016 Looks great! How do you like the ride? Which springs again? I love it. Set to half way "sport", and I felt it backing out of the space! Eibach Springs. I will have front donor struts too for those in need. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted December 1, 2016 Author Share Posted December 1, 2016 Leave them on full soft for a few hundred miles to break them in slowly. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timothy.B Posted December 1, 2016 Share Posted December 1, 2016 I love it. Set to half way "sport", and I felt it backing out of the space! Eibach Springs. I will have front donor struts too for those in need. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk Congrats on your new car, again How far are you from the lake up here? I might pickup the struts instead of you having to ship them to someone. Timothy.B's 2011 LEGACY 3.6R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golferdude1087 Posted December 1, 2016 Share Posted December 1, 2016 I only have 1/2 turn up front (full soft rear) but they were put on that way (didn't know about full soft first few hundred). Either way after 1500 miles I believe they softened up a smidgen, car still handles great but I almost have forgotten what stock was like because this rides so smoothly. I only get reminded in the turns when I can take them much faster then before lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted December 1, 2016 Share Posted December 1, 2016 Taking turns now results in me sliding out of the seat rather than the car rolling...when is someone going to find a way to properly bolster the stock seats! Lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cww516 Posted December 1, 2016 Share Posted December 1, 2016 I think brandon.mol already did some work on that, actually. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golferdude1087 Posted December 1, 2016 Share Posted December 1, 2016 Taking turns now results in me sliding out of the seat rather than the car rolling...when is someone going to find a way to properly bolster the stock seats! Lol Yeah..Hold on!!! I also know I need fatter tires lol, the 225 serenity plus i run were great before and are OK in handling but now I have a good suspension and the grand touring tire isn't meant for the turns. Next year hopefully I can snag a new set of wheels and use the stock wheels as my winter set Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MySubieII Posted December 1, 2016 Share Posted December 1, 2016 Congrats on your new car, again [emoji14] How far are you from the lake up here? I might pickup the struts instead of you having to ship them to someone. I'm in Dayton. It's pretty far from Lake Erie if that's what you mean? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MySubieII Posted December 1, 2016 Share Posted December 1, 2016 Taking turns now results in me sliding out of the seat rather than the car rolling...when is someone going to find a way to properly bolster the stock seats! Lol Hahaha. I have been thinking this exact thought since I made this car my daily driver! Sliding all over three place. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timothy.B Posted December 1, 2016 Share Posted December 1, 2016 Taking turns now results in me sliding out of the seat rather than the car rolling...when is someone going to find a way to properly bolster the stock seats! Lol There's the Braum seats: I personally would go with the black. They're like $700 though. I'm in Dayton. It's pretty far from Lake Erie if that's what you mean? Yeah, Lake Erie. Well crap. That's not a quick drive by any means, haha. I know someone that has relatives down there. Maybe I'll PM you at some point, we can set a price and I could have them grab them. I'll let ya know. Timothy.B's 2011 LEGACY 3.6R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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