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CapnJack

I Donated Too
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Everything posted by CapnJack

  1. At least if you test now, you'll have a baseline? I started to see winter blends show up as early as September. At that point, I just switched the car back to regular fuel until the next summer. Sounds like you've done your due diligence on the source too. Hard to say both are bad, but a third won't hurt. The MAP sensor is a straw to grasp, otherwise, it's a wack a mole situation if you are confident there are no leaks.
  2. I ran one from alternator to ground, starter to ground, engine head to ground (both sides) and block to ground. Might be overkill, but dunno? You are doing exactly what I would recommend. I never understood how the crankcase air wasn't unmetered as well? I could only come up with the same thing you did. LOL! You are right on the edge of where I started to feel uncomfortable with the factory MAP. It's throwing parts, but if you can borrow one and rule it out it may not hurt? 12% of 20lbs is 2lbs and that can be hard to see the difference? Maybe? I assume you have tested the fuel or tried other sources? This is a tough one!
  3. A couple of random blind darts... When I would boost test my car, I would plug the AOS line. Any chance one of those lines are not sealed or have a leak in them? What other lines are you blocking off? Are you running the factory MAP sensor or an aftermarket one? What is your boost target? Do you have an analog gauge to ensure both map and analog read the same? Engine grounds? Are they all intact? Can you throw a couple extra ones in there? I ran a 4 ga circle ground kit in my engine bay and swear it ran better.
  4. What is your fueling setup? Are you using the stock lines throughout or have you upgraded in the engine bay? Top feed or side feed? Can you point me to a link for your mods? I know I've seen your build, but am having a brain fart right now.
  5. What does your E85 test out at? I've seen +/- 10% differences. Our E85 in Iowa was closer to E90/E95 in the summer. Unless you tuned on winter fuel and are running on summer blend, I don't think you would see that severe of a shift in your fuel trims. Are you hitting boost targets? I had a problem on my car with a similar problem and found that EWG line was leaking. I saw overboosting, weird fuel trims, high AFR, back fires, etc. It took me forever to find this leak and I took everything apart (similar to what you are doing now). Ultimately, I had to soap test every single joint to find it. It was buried far enough I couldn't hear it and it would bleed slow enough that I couldn't see it on my gauge, but it had a serious effect on how the car performed. As I'm sure you are away, it's not surprising to see the high numbers in the A and C categories. You rarely drive your car in the D area (unless you are full throttle everywhere). Similar to your B area, it's more just off idle at low speeds. Typically your A and C are the first to show issues. It really seems like you have an intake leak or vacuum leak somewhere you just haven't found yet.
  6. [ame]www.youtube.com/watch?v=n-dMzziZrQA[/ame]
  7. I joined in 2007 when I bought my 07LGT. I don't own that car or any Subaru anymore, but still have some lessons learned that I hope help folks out from time to time.
  8. The question is, what do you want the system to do? If you are looking for water sensors, temperature sensors, door sensors, etc to monitor your house while you are away, there are simpler things you can do and you don't need a monitoring agency. (Nest, Samsung Smartthings, Wink, etc). These devices will send you text messages, emails, etc. If you think about it, what is the monitoring agency going to do if you have water in your basement and the alarm goes off? They are going to call you! If you are looking for glass breakage, motion detection, smoke, etc for break-ins or fires, you can still do that with Nest, Samsung, Wink, etc, but will add additional sensors. The nice part is those systems are easily expandable for a reasonable price. They can be also be centrally monitored if desired but will call out via the internet. this may make them not be eligible for the home insurance discount by most major carriers. The call out typically needs to be via phone or cellular in my experience. We have a full system I set up myself and 99% of the time, I use it to tell me if my sump pump is working and what the temperature of the house is. If you are not technical like that, I would contact a trusted local installer familiar with the area. They are trained on how to properly set up a home and will give you ideas you never thought of.
  9. I would certainly contact the NHTSA. I'm guessing they would be interested to see that the SOA corrective action was ineffective and that there are cars that could cause accidents on the road with a known safety issue that was reportedly corrected. When I used to work in the auto industry as a tier 2 supplier of parts, the JDM & (US)JDM was EXTREMELY picky about part quality to the point they put several of their suppliers out of business by forcing 200-300% inspection costs to the supplier if one part had damage on it. Some of the requirements were ridiculous. They learned their lesson in the mid 2000's and stopped doing this. I'm guessing the pendulum swung too far the wrong way. Part quality started to slip as they scrambled to keep suppliers in business and tried to find other suppliers to make parts for them to keep the assembly lines running. Unfortunately, there were failures in the field which triggered recalls. Materials have changed and lessons were learned from these defects. With regards to recalls, I know people that have worked in dealership service centers. Recalls are a PITA and mechanics try to get through them as quickly as possible. The more recalls they get done, the more money in the mechanic's and dealer's pocket. Many times the recall gets pencil whipped after a quick inspection. If they did spray on the corrosion inhibitor per the recall, did they prep the surface properly for proper adherence? Did they shake the can to what the instructions stated? Was the inspection performed properly and corrective action implemented properly? The burden of proof is on the dealership for this. My wife worked in dealer audit and she had findings at every single dealership that showed that documentation is poor, work was not actually performed, and repeat issues were common. However, the dealership ALWAYS charged back the OEM properly for the work they did! Amazing!!! In one instance, a dealership charged the OEM for a warranty repair to replace a headlight bulb. Cost of the bulb was about $15, but the labor added another $485. When asked how long it should take, the dealership was pretty embarrassed and agreed to a $450 charge back. With regards to those saying that these are 10-12 year old vehicles and these parts wear out, I would argue that point. Brake lines are not a wear item and should not fail. There is no service interval called out in the Subaru manual for these for inspection. If the line rusted from the inside out, I could see your point. Inspection and change of brake fluid is a service interval and failure to do so is neglect. This is plain and simple a manufacturers defect that was called out by several organizations but not corrected properly. Good luck on the transmission and center diff. That really adds insult to injury.
  10. Our local municipality won't allow home owners to do their own electrical. It must be done by a licensed electrician. When I asked about it and explained my qualifications, he wouldn't listen and told me to read the ordinance. I read the ordinance and it clearly stated I could do my own work. Asking the inspector again, he told me that's not the way they do it and refused to issue me a permit. Ended up having to hire an electrician for several hundred dollars of work I could have easily done myself.
  11. Having run two different maps for years, I agree it is a PITA, but it worked well for me. I tested my fuel and knew when to use E85 based on seasonality. I also watched fuel trims religiously after filling up to confirm my results. I was very in tune (no pun intended) with my car. I designed and built the car myself. The tune was done professionally because I knew my limitations. However, I still understood what the data meant. This is just my opinion, but for those that choose to run E85, you need to be familiar with your car, mods, and local E85 distribution. Subaru never designed these cars to be "flex fuel". Can it be done? Sure! But there is risk regardless if you have a flex fuel setup or different maps. The word "safe" is very subjective. Let's be honest, the reason for converting to E85 in these cars is to get more power. With more power comes more risk of something breaking. Anyone that feels the need to modify their car to the point of running E85 needs to accept that risk. If they don't, they bought the wrong car and should have bought a factory built higher horsepower car with a warranty. "If you make something idiot proof, the world comes up with better idiots..." -Socrates-
  12. The sand, gravel, etc is generally as expensive as the pavers in my experience. Then you've got the site work to prep it. Then you have to pick them up from Home Depot. Trust me when I say not to more than 500 lbs of pavers in the trunk of a Legacy...
  13. Concrete cost is so variable based on local conditions. I did a project in VA that the concrete was 5x that of one in WI for similar work. WI was over saturated and VA the contractors could pick and choose who they did work for. That said, my wife and I just had a quote done for a patio in our backyard and it was stupid cheap. There is a lot of construction in our subdivision and we called one of the guys pouring all the driveways. The largest cost in a small job is mobilization and partial loads. If you can get a couple of neighbors that want to do concrete, it can spread some of that out, you can order a full load, and it helps everyone in the long run.
  14. We actually had 6-8 friends come over for a cook out on the scheduled day of delivery to help lift it up. Then it down poured all day. Lifting a hot tub in the rain is very difficult and dangerous because it's so slippery. We weren't able to get everyone back over again for several weeks due to schedules and had to put the railings on to close the building permit so I did a little research. I pulled it up some ramps with a chain fall, load leveler and straps. I actually did it myself in about an hour. Similar to this: Yes. We scheduled delivery (kind of) before we put the railings on. Worked out great! Pretty much! It's only 6 feet off the ground, but the tub weighs about 600lbs and it's awkward. I used five 2x8s and made a ramp and pulled it up. They slide very easily. We want to leave it open as we have a pond view and don't want to obstruct the view. Plus the tie-in with the roof line of the house is difficult with a screened in porch. The hot tub portion of the deck is built to put a gazebo on it at some point, so we may do that and can screen it in. That is also planned! We are going to install some short lattice in the interim that can be removed at a later date.
  15. Built a deck off the master bedroom, added a hot tub, then added a patio door to the master. Now we can walk out of the master and relax in the hot tub. The only access to the deck is through the master. That way nobody can sneak up the stairs to take a dip.
  16. Are you planning for one designed for selfies?
  17. When turning up the radio volume, it gets noticeably louder until you get to 10. Once past 10, 11, 12, 13, 14 and 15 don't seem to do much. After 15, it starts to get noticeably louder again. My keyless entry worked ok when I lived in south central rural WI. When I lived in central rural Iowa, it didn't work well at all even after multiple battery changes. When I moved back near heavily populated south east WI , it now works perfectly. Only conclusion is that there was a frequency that interrupts it in the first two locations. However the location I'm in now is much more heavily populated than those and works the best it ever has.
  18. 120500 miles on my 3.0R. Bought it with about 30K on it about 6 years ago. Still on the original engine and transmission. I have replaced all brakes at least once and I think I'm coming due again. Also have replaced shocks/struts, rear springs(one broke), tie rod ends, front LCAs & ball joints, front wheel bearings, front CV axles, accessory drive belt, cat back, and battery. Normal maintenance performed including trans flush, front and rear diff oil change, coolant change, filters, brake fluid, etc... Car runs and drives well! No leaks on anything. I hope it lasts for another 120K.
  19. One thing that turned a lot of people off of this(besides the price) is the need to remove the transmission from the car to install the plates. I'm not sure how the trans tunnel is situation on the 5th Gen, but on the 4th, there was not enough space to install the bolts due to the close proximity of the transmission to the tunnel. I did find a way to do it with the transmission left in the car by drilling a single hole in the trans tunnel, sliding the bolt in, then resealing it. It's another option for those interested if it comes to that. http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5121452&postcount=28 NOTE - Make sure if you use this method to pull back the carpet. In the 4th gen, the main wiring harness ran right where I drilled the hole. If I hadn't checked, it would have been a huge problem.
  20. Duh... Thank you! I read that entirely too fast and missed that point.
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