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Going stage 2, which clutch?


Zac88

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My ACT HD clutch is starting to slip. Can i just replace the clutch disk? Is there a better clutch out there for me. Car is currently putting down 385 ft-lb.

 

Thanks for any help

 

You can replace just the disc. I would recommend resurfacing the flywheel and replacing the pilot bearing and release bearing with the disc (not that I am a fan of re-using a pressure plate).

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  • 1 month later...
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I've read a lot of this thread but I'm just looking for a little clarification. I'm running a COBB stg 2 map with a turbo-back exhaust and my clutch is slipping in 4th/5th. From the last few pages I assume a South Bend stage 2 clutch and 06+ WRX SMFW is what is currently recommended.

 

When I buy the clutch, do I get the K70406-HD-O Legacy clutch "For use with OEM Flywheel" here:

http://www.infamousperformance.net/south-bend-clutch/south-bend-clutch-kit-stage-2/k70406hdo/i-1970307.aspx?aid=9259172

 

Or do I get the FJK1001-HD-O WRX clutch (as I'm using a WRX flywheel) here:

http://www.infamousperformance.net/south-bend-clutch/south-bend-clutch-kit-stage-2/fjk1001hdo/i-1970652.aspx

 

I only ask because there is a $160 difference in price and money is an issue right now. What is the difference between the kits? Does the Legacy kit come with something extra that I'll need?

 

I'm also planning on throwing a TSK3 kit in as well just for good measure (I can hear some rattley noises with clutch pedal pushed in) but I can only afford around $1000 (why are clutches so expensive?!).

 

Thank you for any info/comments.

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I've read a lot of this thread but I'm just looking for a little clarification. I'm running a COBB stg 2 map with a turbo-back exhaust and my clutch is slipping in 4th/5th. From the last few pages I assume a South Bend stage 2 clutch and 06+ WRX SMFW is what is currently recommended.

 

When I buy the clutch, do I get the K70406-HD-O Legacy clutch "For use with OEM Flywheel" here:

http://www.infamousperformance.net/south-bend-clutch/south-bend-clutch-kit-stage-2/k70406hdo/i-1970307.aspx?aid=9259172

 

Or do I get the FJK1001-HD-O WRX clutch (as I'm using a WRX flywheel) here:

http://www.infamousperformance.net/south-bend-clutch/south-bend-clutch-kit-stage-2/fjk1001hdo/i-1970652.aspx

 

I only ask because there is a $160 difference in price and money is an issue right now. What is the difference between the kits? Does the Legacy kit come with something extra that I'll need?

 

I'm also planning on throwing a TSK3 kit in as well just for good measure (I can hear some rattley noises with clutch pedal pushed in) but I can only afford around $1000 (why are clutches so expensive?!).

 

Thank you for any info/comments.

 

Healthy OEM shouldn't be slipping on Stage 2 Cobb...

 

What about staying with new OEM parts?

What are your power goals, realistically?

Mileage on that stock clutch? Do you know how it was treated?

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I don't know what clutch is currently installed, but I will try to find out from the previous owner (if I can find his number), so I was just going off the recommendations in this thread, which said to not use OEM and to go for a spec/SB stage 2. No plans for more power in the immediate future, but I might look at an aftermarket TMIC as I think mine is leaking at the moment - can you bullet-proof if it's already leaking or is it too late by then?

 

The clutch was fine (not slipping) when I bought the car 10 months ago and has only recently started slipping. I do not know when it was installed, but at 160k miles I assume it is not the original. I think it still has a DMFW as it is very hard to feel a proper engagement point when taking off from a standing start and, unless I'm launching it, I need to do a sort of 2-stage clutch release (release a third, pause, release a third, pause, release) to get it to play nice. It's also one of the heaviest clutches I've used, so maybe it's not stock then? I don't know.

 

In terms of driving I'm easy on it most days, but once a week or so I'll do a couple launches at the lights on my way to work and I did 2 track days last year with plans for more or maybe some autocross this year.

 

So I guess I figured if I was going to replace the FW anyway (can't machine a dual mass?) I would try and solve the spongy-uncertain feel and have a little more confidence for spirited take-offs by going to a SMFW + aftermarket. Would I be able to use an 07-08 Legacy OEM clutch with a WRX flywheel?

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I recommend a Spec 2+ clutch in these cars. My first one years ago lasted 85,000 miles when I put the new short block and replaced it anyways. It was still going strong at that point on low power levels. My Spec 2 clutch lasted 50,000 miles at 21psi, the car is now back on Spec 2+.

 

I will put a 2+ in my Spec B on couple months also.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I'm also planning on throwing a TSK3 kit in as well just for good measure (I can hear some rattley noises with clutch pedal pushed in) but I can only afford around $1000 (why are clutches so expensive?!).

Avoid the TSK3 unless you have a damaged tranny snout. It is a very tight clearance between the TSK3 sleeve and the TSK3 bearing and in ~10k miles it is very likely to end up with the bearing not sliding on the sleeve anymore but the whole sleeve sliding on the snout ripping through the set screws. Then you'll have to drop the tranny again and fix the whole mess. BTDT. Use TSK3 only if you have a damaged snout already and you don't want to replace your transmission yet.

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A Comp Stage 3 clutch should not be recommended for daily driving use. If daily driving a car that needs a clutch that strong you might want to look into a twin disc.

+1 from personal experience. Avoid Comp Stage 3 or a Sound Bend Stage 3 Daily in a daliy driver. These two feel identical (pedal pressure, bad shudder when going from a stop, will burn/smell bad if you try to slip, etc.) and are race car only thing.

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Avoid the TSK3 unless you have a damaged tranny snout. It is a very tight clearance between the TSK3 sleeve and the TSK3 bearing and in ~10k miles it is very likely to end up with the bearing not sliding on the sleeve anymore but the whole sleeve sliding on the snout ripping through the set screws. Then you'll have to drop the tranny again and fix the whole mess. BTDT. Use TSK3 only if you have a damaged snout already and you don't want to replace your transmission yet.

 

I have not ever seen this happen.

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  • 6 months later...

I wanted to ask a question: I am, and have been, stage 2 since 06. I'm now replacing my stock DMFW & clutch. Apparently I've been slipping forever, since it's pretty bad. I first noticed slippage in 5th gear, about a year ago, so 9 years on stock setup.

 

I've decided (awhile back) to drive this beast like a daily driver. No launches, etc. Just regular driving. Would putting a complete, new 06+ WRX SMFW + Clutch in the car be a good choice if that will be my driving style from now on?

 

My goal is to not add any more power (obviously) but to milk this car into the 150K+ mile range. I'm at 80K now. Any opinions would be greatly appreciated. This thread has been very informative.

 

Thanks

2006 LGT LTD 5MT Brilliant Silver

Cobb AP w/ TDC S2 protune

Crucial DP

K&N Filter

Cusco F&R Sways

Tein H-Techs

Cobb F&R Endlinks

Kartboy SS

Xtec HID 5000K

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It is far cheaper than replacing the DMFW set up and the exact same thing Subaru did on their own in 2007.

 

As an example in 6+ years or owning my own shop I have replaced one, count 'em, one DMFW set up with a new DMFW set up. All others have converted to SMFW.

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I've decided (awhile back) to drive this beast like a daily driver. No launches, etc. Just regular driving. Would putting a complete, new 06+ WRX SMFW + Clutch in the car be a good choice if that will be my driving style from now on?

 

I'm running the new 06+ wrx SMFW and oem 06+ clutch in my legacy. I currently am somewhere around 340whp/395wtq (e85, vf52). I've had this clutch for the last ~20k miles and it's been great. I do 99% daily driving, but the 1% is hard driving, including flat foot shifting. The clutch doesn't have an instant grab when doing flat foot shifting and launching, but it does feel like it grabs all the way after a second or so.

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I'm running the new 06+ wrx SMFW and oem 06+ clutch in my legacy. I currently am somewhere around 340whp/395wtq (e85, vf52). I've had this clutch for the last ~20k miles and it's been great. I do 99% daily driving, but the 1% is hard driving, including flat foot shifting. The clutch doesn't have an instant grab when doing flat foot shifting and launching, but it does feel like it grabs all the way after a second or so.

 

Thanks for the post Cypher. Just what I needed!

2006 LGT LTD 5MT Brilliant Silver

Cobb AP w/ TDC S2 protune

Crucial DP

K&N Filter

Cusco F&R Sways

Tein H-Techs

Cobb F&R Endlinks

Kartboy SS

Xtec HID 5000K

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  • 5 weeks later...

Could use some info as I am looking at the FX300. It states the following on another site: "Note: This requires Clutch Masters new style flywheel in order to work. Clutch Masters redesign their flywheel back around Aug 6 2007. Please e-mail or call us if you are not sure if your flywheel is compatible." It states you HAVE to use their flywheel on their site.

 

Is this true or can I just use a OEM WRX FW? Thanks all!!

http://www.clutchmasters.com/fx300-15022-hdtz-x/

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Why not call CM??? Why ask on a forum rather than call the manufacturer? I am sure the interweb gods no more than the actual product manufacturer does.

 

Seeing how the part number for the clutch kit has changed (the "x" is a newer addition) it is more than possible that the pressure plate was also changed and no longer bolts to an OEM FW.

 

I would call CM to verify.

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Agree w/ m sprank. Doesn't hurt to ask. I had an FX350 on a WRX smfw and it was fine I just hated the FX350's heavy chatter on engaging in low rpm's. I will say however, the FX300 and CM-steel lwfw is an amazing combo for my DD. Zero chatter and very low noise. I give little to no gas to get the car moving as well. It's also holding 315whp 367wtrq like a champ. My readings are on a mustang dyno reading 15% lower too. Just wonder how long the life will be :/
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The issues with the FX350 are what caused me to look elsewhere for reliable clutches. We have been using South Bend almost exclusively since the FX350 issues. When the FX350 was released, we began having issues with all levels of CM clutches. Disappointing as they had been a "go to".
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Just installed a Competition clutch, stage 2 with lightweight flywheel. I really like the feel and seems to be doing fine, but only time will tell. Only 100 mi so far so it's not even broken in.

 

Had a Clutchmaster FX350 before w WRX fly and really liked it but wore out way too early.

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Just installed a Competition clutch, stage 2 with lightweight flywheel. I really like the feel and seems to be doing fine, but only time will tell. Only 100 mi so far so it's not even broken in.

 

Had a Clutchmaster FX350 before w WRX fly and really liked it but wore out way too early.

 

Just wait until the clutch breaks in. It was smooth sailing until about 1k-2k The chatter was so bad it was a nightmare to daily drive (had to rev to 2k for smooth engage.) The clutch was heavy too. My old FX350 pedal feel was good and lasted about 30k~ with harsh chatter if I engaged at too low of an RPM. Way more manageable than the comp.

 

Fingers crossed for you though!

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Why not call CM??? Why ask on a forum rather than call the manufacturer? I am sure the interweb gods no more than the actual product manufacturer does.

 

It's because I have seen companies use marketing ploys to buy their add on products as a "necessity" when that is not indeed the case. And when my tuner stated that he used the clutch AFTER 2007 with a OEM WRX FW, it made me curious. That is why.

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It's because I have seen companies use marketing ploys to buy their add on products as a "necessity" when that is not indeed the case. And when my tuner stated that he used the clutch AFTER 2007 with a OEM WRX FW, it made me curious. That is why.

 

Then trust no one. Your tuner is lying too. You might as well burn the car to the ground just to be safe. :lol::lol::lol:

 

I too have installed CM clutches on OEM FW's after 2007. The only thing that caught my eye was the part number change. That would make me pick up the phone and call.

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  • 1 month later...

Where do y'all find OEM single mass flywheels? Trying to find a stock one to turn and not sure where to look...

 

*and a few pages back someone said they used an STi flywheel- but that's only be for a specB with a 6 speed right?

 

Is there a cheapish route here next to junkyard diving? Act is the best quality for the price I've seen but not sure about them... and still not convinced that's the best I can do on the price tag

 

 

Thanks

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