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cypher0117

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Everything posted by cypher0117

  1. Can you elaborate a bit on this.. I'm afraid my lack of understanding how AVCS really works is getting the better of me. I'm not sure what you mean by .050 and .006 lift. That's inches or? I'm not sure if you are using the 07-09 timing chart that was posted by covertrussian or if you have a timing chart specific for 05-06.
  2. ^ I had the same thing happen to me on my eibach (same design spec as epic) and I had to find something used. I ended up with sti pinks. They are okay. Not quite at comfy as the eibach/epic springs. Your best best is to find something used, unless the aftermarket for the older lgts has picked up, which I think is unlikley
  3. ^ I had the same thing happen to me on my eibach (same design spec as epic) and I had to find something used. I ended up with sti pinks. They are okay. Not quite at comfy as the eibach/epic springs. Your best best is to find something used, unless the aftermarket for the older lgts has picked up, which I think is unlikley
  4. if you can find them I'd get sti-pink springs. My Eibach springs actually fractured and broke after ~4 years of use. I found sti-pinks for a reasonable price used, and I can honestly say I like the feel of those better than the eibachs. Both springs were paired with konis
  5. I got around to switching my vacuum line from the #4 cylinder to the bpv line. While I still have a slight stumble, something interesting has happened. My A/F gauge stopped throwing error codes and displays a number that is stable enough to read the last digit. Based on that, my fuel supply is at least more stable.
  6. I'm running the new 06+ wrx SMFW and oem 06+ clutch in my legacy. I currently am somewhere around 340whp/395wtq (e85, vf52). I've had this clutch for the last ~20k miles and it's been great. I do 99% daily driving, but the 1% is hard driving, including flat foot shifting. The clutch doesn't have an instant grab when doing flat foot shifting and launching, but it does feel like it grabs all the way after a second or so.
  7. I just did this over the last weekend and am happy to report things are operating well. Side note: E85 fixed pretty much all of my stumble but my LV fuel trims still bounce around. I did this to monitor the fuel trims and see if they will stabilize.
  8. Looks like I'm one of the first to have the 3 gauge pod installed. Here is the breakdown: It was a lot easier to install the pod than I thought it was going to be. The detachable mount points were more stable that I originally thought. I had 3 gauges to put in and all three of them were slightly bigger than the printed hole. I needed to sand out the opening a little bit to get the gauges to seat all the way in. I measured the diameter after sanding and it was 52.4ish mm. This might be beneficial for future prints, however I do know that the walls and clearances are tight. I have 3 guages (2 prosports and 1 innovative). The innovative fit better and required less sanding than the prosports. After measuring some things out I don't know that 2 innovative gauges would fit side by side, as their bezels are wider than the prosports. The prosport gauge bezels are (as far as I can tell) the same diameter as the outer diameter of the gauge holes. All in all this piece looks really nice for a printed part
  9. That pod looks good. Is there any physical room to rotate the gauges towards the driver a bit. Kinda like that one 3d printed pod from a long time ago?
  10. What kind of hop are you talking about? I get some hop when I really dig into a corner during autocross. I have my konis set to 1.5 from full soft and don't drive aggressive enough to really test out if I should soften them or tighten them up for my eibach springs. suspension is dialed in as: -1.5 camber front -1.0 camber rear 0 toe F&R front castor is within .05 of each other I think
  11. From what I've read, the EE (Epic Engineering) springs are rebranded Eibach pro kit springs with very minor tweaks.
  12. part # EIB1 7716.140 Though I believe your only options are the private for sale listings, ebay, or getting EE springs. An offset of +38 will give you more room than stock wheels as I believe stock is +54
  13. I've had my eibach+koni setup for ~2.5 years now and never once heard a squeak. The spring/strut setup has about 45k miles on them and the only noise I've heard is a clunk from the fronts ever so often - and that is likely due to my 94k mile tophats
  14. I have the whole whiteline kit: http://www.infamousperformance.net/servlet/the-253/Whiteline-Subaru-Legacy-GT/Detail A bit pricey, but it allowed me to even out the alignment on the rear of my car. This wasn't really noticeable on the street but during autocross the car feels way more uniform in left and right turns than it did before. The whole rear end stiffened up a bit with the poly bushings which felt nice (to me). I also had a bent control arm and frozen toe adjustment bolts which made me replace everything with aftermarket. In short, I'd say they are worth it for the track but probably not for the street. If only driven on the street you could get the whiteline rear camber bushings that will let you even out each side as long as your toe bolts are still moving.
  15. ^^ I'm running koni/eibach and have my alignments done with the following: summer: -1.2 deg camber front -1.0 deg camber rear 0.0 toe all wheels winter: -1.0 camber all wheels 0.0 toe all wheels I have adjustable lower links in the rear that allow me to dial in whatever I want alignment wise.
  16. So you would recommend using the oem turbo banjo bolt with your oil line for the oem turbo?
  17. Yeah, I don't do it too often, but I was just pointing out that it's not as quiet as the stock setup when lugging. Outside of 2k it's silent.
  18. Any or very little chatter. Mine chatters a little bit ~2k rpm on both accel and decel. If you had any exhaust other than stock you wouldn't hear it, but it is there.
  19. I run the eibach pro kit (1" front and .8" rear) They are getting harder and harder to find as I don't think they are in production anymore. found some here: http://lsdmotorsports.com/prod/804436002422.html
  20. I'll third that. My car was fine for a few months on stock struts and lowering springs. Then it got bouncy. Completely gone now that I have konis. If you read a lot throughout this forum, the general consensus is that the lgt is underdamped stock, so putting firmer springs on it just makes things worse until the shocks are completely useless.
  21. I'm also running these: http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3587096&postcount=751
  22. Every once in a while I'll hear my rears 'groan'. I wouldn't call it a squeak as there is no high frequencies that I can hear. When I do hear it though, my stereo has to be off, open windows, quiet out, low speed (to keep road noise from hiding it) and I have to hit a fairly good sized bump (speed bump sized). Even then they don't always make the 'groaning' noise.
  23. I've heard swift springs are really nice. I don't know from any personal experience though. I have eibach springs and koni inserts. They get stiff over large bumps, but I don't even notice the small ones. The drop is slight but looks great in my opinion. http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y156/Cypher0117/lgt/IMG_0374a.jpg
  24. haven't feathered my clutch. I have noticed though that if my right foot lags behind the left foot a bit (clutch starts to grab before I give it gas), the car will shutter once or twice and then just grab and go. The shuddering, in this instance is probably due to the inherent design of the clutch not being full face. Anything more than slight shudder, I don't know what would cause it.
  25. Well, my car said it was 81 when I left work today. The clutch felt a little stickier/grabbier, but still was still easy enough to engage smoothly. No abnormal sounds/vibrations/shuddering. I also cleaned my flywheel when I installed everything. irregardless, I don't think the oils would still be there after 50 miles. Was your tob making noise? did you have the mechanic inspect the snout? maybe your snout was damaged and the new tob isn't sliding well on it. I would assume that things were installed properly, and that would be the only thing I could think of that would cause engagement problems. That or maybe their is air in your clutch line. bleeding your clutch is simple enough. Doing that won't hurt anything but I don't think it will resolve your problem.
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