Zac88 Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 Going stage 2, want a clutch that can hold the power easily but not too exspensive. Can I use the stock flywheel? or will it need to be machined? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 Cheap and good clutch don't go together. Get a wrx 06 single mass flywheel. I like my Spec 2+ clutch I'm at stage 2. You can most likely use a Spec 2 Clutch. Do a web search for their site. Some of the vendors here have good clutched too. You'll get lots of opinions on clutches. The main thing is to have it installed correctly. They are all good, it comes down to personal choice. Just don't go with a OEM stock replacement. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zac88 Posted August 7, 2011 Author Share Posted August 7, 2011 Ok so if I get a wrx flywheel do I have to get a clutch for a 06 wrx as well? And when I install is there anything I should know? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 Fred Beans a vendor here, has kit's. This is a pretty normal set up so everything you'll need is easy to get. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 I had my stock flywheel lightly machined and went with an OEM unit... EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 I'm probably just going to go with an ACT Stage 1 and stock flywheel. I've thought about the clutchmasters FX200, but I'm not sold on it and I get a good deal on ACT stuff. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LosAngelesLGT Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 FWIW CM has been around eons longer than ACT (both MSprank and I remember using early ACT stuff - was pretty darn good back then too), no reason not to trust them. FX300 would be a great choice. Maybe BAC5.2 can get you a really good deal on ACT stuff? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zac88 Posted August 8, 2011 Author Share Posted August 8, 2011 if i get a 06 wrx flywheel do I need to get a wrx clutch or a legacy one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted August 8, 2011 Share Posted August 8, 2011 LGT. I can help, with product and questions. Seems to be some confusion in this thread. 06 WRX SMFW is same FW used in 07-09 LGT's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zac88 Posted August 9, 2011 Author Share Posted August 9, 2011 Ok so far here's my understanding. I buy a factory flywheel out of a 06 wrx or 07 09 lgt. Then I have to have it machined right? What is the benefits of the single mass flywheel? And then I want a spec stage 2 clutch. So do I buy a 05 lgt clutch or wrx? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airgasm Posted August 9, 2011 Share Posted August 9, 2011 No need to machine that flywheel. It gives you more clutch options than stock flywheel. It is also a bit lighter, but not light enough to be a pain. You may also want different bolts for the new flywheel, as the lgt ones are pita to deal with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted August 9, 2011 Share Posted August 9, 2011 You buy a LGT clutch and an OEM SMFW. You have to take the OEM FW bolts out, so you obviously have the proper tool to put them back in. Use Loctite and proper torque technique. They are fine. But I do sell the replacement bolts that do not use the TP-50 bit as well. Exedy is far from my favorite (its last on my list), but it is your car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zac88 Posted August 9, 2011 Author Share Posted August 9, 2011 Ok so what would you recomend and what price am I looking at for all of this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted August 9, 2011 Share Posted August 9, 2011 Anywhere from $675 to well over $1000. Depends on brand and flywheel choice. If you are stock, CMFX300 is the best. If you are modded, CMFX300 is good to around 350awtq. So, I dont recommend it with anything over a 16/18g on pump gas. Comp Clutch 2100 is far cheaper and holds more power. But, has a stiffer pedal. ACT and Comp are very similar. Except Comp has a higher quality TOB. That and it is far cheaper. Comp Clutches are packaged with a LWFW. So, you would have 2 fw (1 to sell) with a comp clutch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 9, 2011 Share Posted August 9, 2011 If you buy a new FW no need to turn it. If you buy a used one, that should be turned. You should be able to use a 07 to 09 clutch step up. I haven't checked lately but I think the 05-09 clutches are listed together. Call Spec and talk with them. m spank may be able to get you what you want or try Mike at AZPinstalls.com Both are great guy's and help us out a lot with info. Try and buy things from the guy's that give out free info here on the forums. Most can get you what ever you want, just ask them. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted August 9, 2011 Share Posted August 9, 2011 All options are available. OEM, Exedy, ACT, Spec, Clutch Masters, Competition Clutch. No turning a new FW. Just install. Using a SMFW offers many more options and some performance benefits. Dont need a LWFW unless you want one. 05-06 have no issues using 07-09 clutches. 05-09 all use same clutch and fw combo with no issues. Except SpecB 6MT. That needs a STi set up or a SpecB specific (although STi set ups hold more power). Mike at AZP is also a good source of info, parts and installs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zac88 Posted August 9, 2011 Author Share Posted August 9, 2011 Ok so I guess ill go with a new smfw. I won't be going over stage 2 power so what is the cheapest clutch I can get? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted August 9, 2011 Share Posted August 9, 2011 Straight up a Spec Stage2. Via GB, the Comp Clutch 2100. But the 2100 comes with a LWFW, so you would have to buy an OEM SMFW, which brings initial cost up slightly over all choices. Then you have the LWFW to sell, to make it cheaper overall. There are really a lot of choices. ACT Subaru Legacy GT Clutch Kit Clutch Masters FX300 Clutch Kit Competition Clutch Performance Clutch Kit - SCC Stage 2 Exedy OEM Replacement Clutch Kit Exedy Racing Stage 1 Clutch Kit Exedy Racing Stage 2 Clutch Kit SPEC Subaru Stage 1 Clutch Kit SPEC Subaru Stage 2 Clutch Kit Subaru OEM Single Mass Flywheel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LosAngelesLGT Posted August 9, 2011 Share Posted August 9, 2011 I'd look past the exedy racing clutch kits too. The stage 1 Exedy is much less driveable than my comp setup with 150+ more wtq holding. I'm betting Exedy has the worst pedal feel and most driveability issues of all the sprung clutches sold by the Mikes. In fact, its more fair to compare the Exedy stuff to a unsprung clutch (and not in a good way!). ...I wish I could go back and update my original Exedy review now that I am on my 2nd aftermarket clutch in this car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MooKz Posted August 13, 2011 Share Posted August 13, 2011 If you plan on launching (with launch control) or flat foot shifting, or even just street racing, I wouldn't recommend spec stage 2. I heard the 2+ can hold a lot but I am going stage 3. My stage 2 only lasted me 2.5 months. Not my idea of a good clutch. I rarely launch and I broke it in so there is no reason it should of went. I will never buy a Kevlar clutch again. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted August 14, 2011 Share Posted August 14, 2011 It was not the Kevlar. It was the Spec clutch. Just not strong enough for the application. Hence my happiness with the Comp Clutches. Super strong, without a nasty pedal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MooKz Posted August 14, 2011 Share Posted August 14, 2011 Spec Stage 2 is made out of Kevlar. I was naming the type of clutch my tranny will never see again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted August 15, 2011 Share Posted August 15, 2011 I would most definitely upgrade to the 06 WRX flywheel. We've seen many LGTs come in with the dual mass flywheels and they just don't hold up as well. Mike's CTS-V the dual mass actually fell apart and was causing a horrible engine shake. Upgraded it to a Vette fw and all was well. As far as the clutch end goes, get something organic for everyday. Kevlar and those types of materials were designed for racing applications. They wont hold up to the constant stop and go which is why they die early. We normally use ACT and have had no issues yet. Granted most cars are not pushing much extra HP. On my RSTi Ive been having issues with the Exedy Stage 1 clutch which is suppose to be rated for what I am making. Take that for what it is worth. Exedy seems to be pretty good with their stronger models but their lower models just doesnt hold up. Definitely look into the claimed holding tq of the clutchs you are thinking about and get something that has some safety margin. - Jake Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 15, 2011 Share Posted August 15, 2011 Jake, sounds like you have never heard of the saying, "overkill". I doubt I would ever buy a stage 1 clutch or something they said would handle my hp. I would always buy a higher level clutch. But I'm 56y/o. I have over 72,000 mile on my Spec 2+ I have launched the car a number of times. I'm not easy on the car. The thing is a beast. Yet is easy to DD. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted August 15, 2011 Share Posted August 15, 2011 While normally I would agree with Max's "overkill" mantra, when it comes to clutches there is a bit of a qundry. I can't tell you how many times we have swapped out a clutch for a customer on their LGT after other shops mis-directed them to a clutch that was too strong for their application. It caused unnecessary harshness in terms of clutch engagement/grippiness. We have, as Jake said, had great luck with both the ACT and the Clutchmasters. With the clutchmasters the pedal is as good or better than stock for a daily driven/street car. You definitely don't want an unsprung or pucked clutch and organic material is your best bet for a street driven car. Remember that the clutch is going to be the weak point in terms of your driveline, and you want it that way. If you do overkill you run the risk of causing transmission damage which costs a lot more than replacing a clutch -mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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