Gabo Posted December 9, 2015 Share Posted December 9, 2015 No. You are converting to an STi clutch. You must always use an STi FW. SpecB 6MT and STi 6MT flywheels are different. The clutches are too (friction surface area and pressure plate to FW mounting). There were too few SpecB's made to justify aftermarket clutch offerings. You must convert pressure plate, disc and FW to STi. Understandable, the car is currently on an exedy cluth I dont know which one since the previous owner was the one to get it install. Ill try and find out. In any case between the FX350 and southbend which one would you recommend? I dd the car with sporadic spirited driving/canyon carving. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted December 9, 2015 Share Posted December 9, 2015 South Bend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gabo Posted December 9, 2015 Share Posted December 9, 2015 South Bend. Check pm. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mis08011 Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 I just read through all 12 pages and think I'm having reading comprehension issues, so forgive me if this was answered. I have a slipping clutch on my DD 2006 LGT and am leaning towards a SMFW and the FX300 as a replacement. I'm running stage 2 and I think the 350 ft/lb limit is adequate (no plans for more power in the near future). Am I looking for the 2006 WRX FW and a 2006 LGT clutch? Also, anybody know a good shop around Hartford, CT for a clutch replacement? What labor charge range should I plan for? Thanks guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarcLgtSTI Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 I just read through all 12 pages and think I'm having reading comprehension issues, so forgive me if this was answered. I have a slipping clutch on my DD 2006 LGT and am leaning towards a SMFW and the FX300 as a replacement. I'm running stage 2 and I think the 350 ft/lb limit is adequate (no plans for more power in the near future). Am I looking for the 2006 WRX FW and a 2006 LGT clutch? Also, anybody know a good shop around Hartford, CT for a clutch replacement? What labor charge range should I plan for? Thanks guys. To answer your questions the FX 300 should do fine for what you're putting down. Just make sure you buy the FX300 for WRX's being that you're getting a Wrx smfw. I just picked up an FX300 for a LGT and had to buy a CM steel flywheel to match up with it. Because The LGT CM clutch will not work with my WRX smfw. I couldn't refund my clutch because I got it for a low holiday price. Once I install my clutch I'll get back to this thread with updates. I'll also be putting up my WRX smfw for sale in the forums after. I know two awesome shops in CT are: EFI Logics in Bethel a lot of great reviews but a little more pricey, and The Shop in Norwalk. I got my Stage 3 install done at The Shop and they do great work. If you're willing to drive a little, AZP installs in NJ did an awesome job installing my clutch. Hope this helps you out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 I just read through all 12 pages and think I'm having reading comprehension issues, so forgive me if this was answered. I have a slipping clutch on my DD 2006 LGT and am leaning towards a SMFW and the FX300 as a replacement. I'm running stage 2 and I think the 350 ft/lb limit is adequate (no plans for more power in the near future). Am I looking for the 2006 WRX FW and a 2006 LGT clutch? Also, anybody know a good shop around Hartford, CT for a clutch replacement? What labor charge range should I plan for? Thanks guys. Isn't there a Subbie shop in E.Hartford behind all the car dealers. Can't think of the name right now. I have a trusted shop in Somersville CT if you want the info, PM me. or http://www.eastcoastswappers.com/ call them about pricing. these guy's might know of someone, https://subimods.com/ 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gabo Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 I just read through all 12 pages and think I'm having reading comprehension issues, so forgive me if this was answered. I have a slipping clutch on my DD 2006 LGT and am leaning towards a SMFW and the FX300 as a replacement. I'm running stage 2 and I think the 350 ft/lb limit is adequate (no plans for more power in the near future). Am I looking for the 2006 WRX FW and a 2006 LGT clutch? Also, anybody know a good shop around Hartford, CT for a clutch replacement? What labor charge range should I plan for? Thanks guys. I went ahead and got the southbend stage 2 clutch along with an oem STi flywheel and have been running it for a little over 200 miles. I fell in love with it the moment I started driving the car. I would recommend this setup to anyone. In the least upgrade to an STi clutch nkt WRX one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted January 6, 2016 Moderators Share Posted January 6, 2016 I went ahead and got the southbend stage 2 clutch along with an oem STi flywheel and have been running it for a little over 200 miles. I fell in love with it the moment I started driving the car. I would recommend this setup to anyone. In the least upgrade to an STi clutch nkt WRX one. Do you know what you're talking about? STi clutches are for 6mt's, WRX clutches are for 5mt's. You can't say "get an STi clutch instead of a WRX clutch" unless you are comparing entirely different transmissions. Your profile doesn't list what type of car you have so I honestly don't know... "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gabo Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 Do you know what you're talking about? STi clutches are for 6mt's, WRX clutches are for 5mt's. You can't say "get an STi clutch instead of a WRX clutch" unless you are comparing entirely different transmissions. Your profile doesn't list what type of car you have so I honestly don't know... I made an assumption he was driving a spec B like me, hence the STi clutch suggestion. Just went back and read his profile.... ops! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 Last night I got back into my wagon for the first time in almost two weeks after driving the Spec B the past few day's. The wagon has Spec 2+ clutch with about 10,000 miles on it. I nearly pushed the clutch pedal through the floor. It's that easy on your leg. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mis08011 Posted January 7, 2016 Share Posted January 7, 2016 I hadn't really looked into South Bend, does anyone have longer term experience with them? Max, how do you think the Spec 2 clutch would hold up with daily driving? Would you recommend it over the FX300? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted January 7, 2016 Share Posted January 7, 2016 We have installed soooooooooooooooo many South Bend clutches. Our number 1 recommended brand at this time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 7, 2016 Share Posted January 7, 2016 I hadn't really looked into South Bend, does anyone have longer term experience with them? Max, how do you think the Spec 2 clutch would hold up with daily driving? Would you recommend it over the FX300? The Tech at Spec Clutches told me they recommend a 2+ for these cars. The first 2+ I had installed at 72,000 miles was a little touchy in the early miles. That's why I choose a Spec 2 at the new short block, I now realize that was a mistake. The current Spec 2+ has been pretty much flawless in the 8 month's its been in there. I have not had a Southbend, but you can trust m sprank. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gabo Posted January 7, 2016 Share Posted January 7, 2016 but you can trust m sprank. I second this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 I have not tried a Spec 2+ personally. But I have advised customers of how happy Max Capacity has been with his. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 I have not tried a Spec 2+ personally. But I have advised customers of how happy Max Capacity has been with his. "This dude I know from the Internet loves his" My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 How's the South Bend's pedal effort in LA/SD stop and go freeway traffic? I drive in that stuff every weekday. And what kinda mileage are your customers get out of them, in such conditions? Couple months ago, I was stuck in Disneyland parking structure traffic, creeping up multiple steep ramps one car length at a time, for 20+ minutes. My clutch (unknown, could be oem, but not performance) was HATING it. But my leg was fine. I'm hoping for something that can handle that without hurting me. And when I upgrade turbos later this year, 350-400 ft-lbs. pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 How's the South Bend's pedal effort in LA/SD stop and go freeway traffic? I drive in that stuff every weekday. And what kinda mileage are your customers get out of them, in such conditions? Couple months ago, I was stuck in Disneyland parking structure traffic, creeping up multiple steep ramps one car length at a time, for 20+ minutes. My clutch (unknown, could be oem, but not performance) was HATING it. But my leg was fine. I'm hoping for something that can handle that without hurting me. And when I upgrade turbos later this year, 350-400 ft-lbs. I have a South Bend Stage 2 Daily (as per Mike's recommendation). The pedal effort was initially lighter than stock, as it broke in it basically feels stock. The engagement point is easy to hit. I did not notice a a change in gas mileage from the OEM clutch to this clutch. Both OEM and The SBS2D are easy for me to burn, so I think that points more towards me needing to learn how to use the clutch better. The bad for me is that there is a shudder / judder in first gear when starting from a stop sometimes that the OEM clutch did not have. It's possible I am also not very good at using a clutch (high possibility). I asked Mike about it and he said that it sounds like I was trying to take off at too low of an RPM. I didn't have this issue with the OEM clutch. First gear is slightly finicky. I don't think this clutch can handle the situation you described in traffic. You need a low / high gear box for that. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gabo Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 I have a South Bend Stage 2 Daily (as per Mike's recommendation). The pedal effort was initially lighter than stock, as it broke in it basically feels stock. The engagement point is easy to hit. I did not notice a a change in gas mileage from the OEM clutch to this clutch. The bad for me is that there is a shudder / judder in first gear when starting from a stop sometimes that the OEM clutch did not have. I don't think this clutch can handle the situation you described in traffic. You need a low / high gear box for that. This is a fairly accurate description. In my case though I went from and Exedy Clutch and ACT lighweight flywheel to a SB Stage 2 Endurance with OEM STI flywheel. The pedal effort for the Southbend is less than the exedy for sure. Ive done some stop and go with both the southbend and exedy setup and can say for certain the car is easier to drive with the southbend setup. I cant say how much of that is attributed to the heavier flywheel Im running now. Also the shudder every now and then if my rpms are too low does not bother me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 The slight judder is because the clutch is more "grabby" than OEM. It is an inconsistent slip between the clutch and FW. This can be overcome with more throttle, but that also wears the clutch disc. A South Bend stage 1 should not judder. I would anticipate at least a slight amount of judder from every aftermarket clutch designed to hold beyond stage2 power. The SB is still (consistently) the strongest/smoothest/best engaging clutch we have tested (so far). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doobaruGT Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 The slight judder is because the clutch is more "grabby" than OEM. It is an inconsistent slip between the clutch and FW. This can be overcome with more throttle, but that also wears the clutch disc. A South Bend stage 1 should not judder. I would anticipate at least a slight amount of judder from every aftermarket clutch designed to hold beyond stage2 power. The SB is still (consistently) the strongest/smoothest/best engaging clutch we have tested (so far). While I'm not due for a clutch (yet), I'm tempted to consider SB. However, I've had a great experience with my comp stg 2. I hate to fix what's not broken, persay. Mike, how does the comp compare to the SB in your opinion? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Updated parts list since original part-out here. Original Full part-out of my LGT HERE! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 Competition Clutch uses a proprietary light weight flywheel. South Bend uses OEM or any FW with the OEM bolt pattern. Many LGT owners have complained to me about the effects of a LWFW. As for power holding, engagement, etc. I personally prefer the SB, but the Comp is not bad. We have had many good experiences with Competition Clutch and have many, many track days on their clutches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarcLgtSTI Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 I had a comp stage 3 clutch. Although the holding power was great, the pedal was super stiff and was very on / off. Track use yes, daily driver no. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 I had a comp stage 3 clutch. Although the holding power was great, the pedal was super stiff and was very on / off. Track use yes, daily driver no. A Comp Stage 3 clutch should not be recommended for daily driving use. If daily driving a car that needs a clutch that strong you might want to look into a twin disc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjgear Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 My ACT HD clutch is starting to slip. Can i just replace the clutch disk? Is there a better clutch out there for me. Car is currently putting down 385 ft-lb. Thanks for any help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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