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Going stage 2, which clutch?


Zac88

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I guess Ill add my two cents in here. I just finished up my 08 STI 6 speed swap into my Outback XT. At the recommend of a local 6 speed swapped LGT and Mike (msprank) I went with the CM FX300. Ive probably got a total of about 250-350 miles on it so far.

 

It is really grabby at first and either on or off, as it is breaking in it is getting better.

 

I had the ACT street disc and pressure plate in my 5 speed and the pedal was pretty stiff. I did like it but not in rush hour traffic so much, although I don't have to drive in it much.

 

The FX300 clutch pedal on the other hand is way soft, even more soft than stock. As I drive it more it is stiffening up a bit more than the first day but its about perfect now.

 

My car put down 350/373 to the wheels on E85 and AVO380 turbo with ID1000 injectors.

 

It may seem like the clutch is not enough for this or barely enough, but I don't really beat on my car and I didn't want the FX400 6 puck so just stayed at the FX300.

 

So far I like it OK, and Ill post a longer term review in a few months. Actually started a thread for this.

 

Thanks to Mike and KCwagon for the advise on the clutch. I would not have thought to get a Clutch Masters clutch before talking to them.

 

If your car is street driven and you drive it a lot I don't think it is wise to go overboard on the clutch choice.

Could I have used something with more clamping force with the built motor in my car? Sure.

With that said, unless you are really beating on the thing, it should be fine.

 

The 2100 Mike talks about sounds pretty good, and sometimes I think I should have gotten that one but with that said Im not sure I would want the really stiff pedal after going from the ACT to the FX300.

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It does, but it gets better as it gets broken in. First day was almost puck-like, but it's more streetable now

 

So I've got 700 miles on this set up now (CCI 2100), and here are my impressions. Note I also have a Group N transmission mount. Not as stiff as urethane, but stiffer than stock. Perrin shifter bushings as well.

 

Traffic: This clutch sucks in traffic. Not as bad as a puck style, but it's still difficult for stop and go traffic over extended periods of time. I was in 25 minutes of it this morning, and it wasn't fun. Once your moving, it's great. But from a stop, and repeated stop and go, it's not fun.

 

Pedal feel and engagement: The pedal feel is excellent. Barely noticable difference from stock. Engagement is smooth once your moving, and the LWFW definitely makes rev-matching easier and more fun. From a stop, in first or reverse, the clutch takes some work to engage smoothly. It's not like OEM where you can just dump it and begin to roll and lightly apply the gas to move. Revs need to be up around 1500 or so for smooth engagement without shaking the car. But now after break-in, with lesuirely driving, I can shift from 3-4 or 4-5 by just barely touching the clutch. Very nice.

 

Power holding: This I can't really comment on because although I have my catless UP and Cobb DP installed, I'm still running on my stock tune while I wait for my base tune... *Cough* SHAMAR!! *Cough*. Once I get my Stage 2 tune I'll be able to open it up a bit and see what she can do. It is rated for well above typical Stage 2 levels, so I don't forsee an issue with this.

 

NVH: (noise, vibration, harshness) I do notice the off throttle decel rattle/chatter that LALGT mentioned, but it's not something that really bothers me because I know it's normal. The car does shake if you don't get the first or reverse transition correct, but again, I also have the Group N tranny mount.

 

Overall so far it's a good clutch. Will know more about it once I get tuned and open it up a bit. However, if you want a completely stock feeling clutch, this is not for you. My research indicated that a OEM clutch and WRX single mass flywheel will handle most Stage 2 power levels with out issue (regular driving, no drag), so if you want stock feel all around, that would be a better combo. If you see yourself going higher than basic Stage 2, then the 2100 is a clutch to consider.

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Well gentleman, I got my Spec Stage 2+ installed in just under 3 1/2 hours!!! Excellent time this time around as opposed to 8 hours last time.

 

So far, I realize that the clutch is grabby as ****. it engages real quick. Almost as if it were a 6 puck. The pedal feel is beyond gorgeous, better than stock if I might add. I'm hearing some chatter after 6 or 7 miles, but hopefully it goes away soon. I will keep you guys posted throughout the break in and after.

 

I have about 73,000 miles on my 2+. Mine will still chatter when it's cold and damp, but once the engine warms up it's fine. Much like a lot of stock clutches do.

 

When new I learned to put tranny in nutral and side step the clutch if it chattered during normal driving. I also learned it liked to be driven not babied.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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After reading the thread, I'm not sure if I made the right decisions on my purchases, but whatever... it will make for some interesting reviews, and a great learning experience.

 

Currently, I've got the Exedy Stage 1 clutch on delivery at my local shop, and will be running the Exedy LWFW (which sounds like I could be getting some slip, running stg 2 cobb). I'm hoping break-in will work out for me, but I'm not sure. I also had to replace the throw-out bearing and transmission sleeve, and had a local shop do the replacement rather than going with the TSK3 (which I'm also not sure was a good decision).

 

Also, does anyone know what the weight of the stock DMFW is? From the DMFWs that I've read about as replacements, they're estimated around 30lbs! That's incredibly heavy, in my opinion.

 

I'll let you guys know about the drivability after I've got the car back, and have done the break-in as well.

 

thanks,

 

-Bishop

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When I weighted mine back in Jun 07 is was 27lbs. It was replaced with the one of the first if not the first Spec LWFW by the dealer. So I never got to wight it. But I think I read somewhere it weights 17lbs.

 

When I replace my clutch next spring along with the short block. I'll order a new face for the Spec LWFW and another 2+ clutch.

 

If I did it again, I'd go with the 06 WRX flywheel and a Spec2+

 

As I have posted in the past, you lose some low end driveability with the LWFW. I can't drive at 40mph in 5th gear any more.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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Yup, definitely miss that. But still overall I'm happy with the choice I've made.

 

I wouldn't steer you wrong ;)

 

Funny thing last night. I got back in the SpecB and stalled it twice trying to take off. It grabs so much lower then the Spec2+ in my 05 DD.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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The competition clutch 2100 will NOT work with the OEM SMFW. I found this out after I pulled the tranny and was trying to line up bolt holes on the pressure plate with the smfw. This was not going to happen. The bolt holes on the oem smfw are a different radius than the comp 2100 pressure plate. If you consider the 2100, you'll need that lwfw that comes with it. This I was not expecting or wanting.

 

I've read about chatter with lwfw and this flywheel is no exception. The chatter is quite, but there. If you have an exhaust you'll likely not even notice it. I have a stock exhaust on my car currently so the fw chatter is noticable with my stereo volume at 4 or lower. I do get vibrations and loud, deep, grinding/growling sound if I try to accelerate with an engine rpm between 1500 and 2000. Reverse and 1st gears kicked my ass, but I never stalled the car.

 

I'm still in the break-in period for the clutch and I have very mixed feelings about it. Clutch pedal feel is exactly what I want but the added noises fromt he lightened flywheel is not. Does the chatter get better with time?

 

I try not to spool the turbo while breaking in this clutch so I don't know what kind of abuse it can take yet.

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With a LWFW 1500rpm is too low. No more lugging the car the same way as stock. But even a OEM SMFW will not like 1500 rpm. That is just too low and you are lugging it no matter what.

 

The FW info has been forwarded to Comp and a replacement offer has been made to all customers trying to use a OEM SMFW.

 

Chatter stays the same.

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I do get vibrations and loud, deep, grinding/growling sound if I try to accelerate with an engine rpm between 1500 and 2000. Reverse and 1st gears kicked my ass, but I never stalled the car.

 

I'm still in the break-in period for the clutch and I have very mixed feelings about it. Clutch pedal feel is exactly what I want but the added noises fromt he lightened flywheel is not. Does the chatter get better with time?

 

I try not to spool the turbo while breaking in this clutch so I don't know what kind of abuse it can take yet.

 

Chatter stays there, and may be more pronounced with a GroupN tranny mount. I've just got used to it, alerted my wife that it's normal, and moved on.

 

Clutch will handle stage2 power without issue. Clamps hard and holds well. It's great for that, but like I said earlier, sucks in traffic and sometimes 1st and reverse can suck llama wang.

 

1500 is way too low, as others have said. I still get chatter/vibrations crusing at 1900-2100 in 4th or 5th, but I've just moved on from that. According to the trip computer, it was only about a 2mpg difference from going a gear down anyway.

 

Sucks about the SMFW, I almost went that route, glad I didn't try it!

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thread revival. I'm in the market for a new clutch. I will be stage 2 soon, and possibly stage 3 in the future.

 

BigDogg, max cap, and m sprank, thanks for your reviews. Looks like I'm torn between the 2100, fx300, and spec 2+. Shocking, I know.

 

The 2100 has me causually nervous. The chatter that BigDogg is talking about up to 2100 revs is not so kosher to me. As a DD, I want a little more driveability, especially since my GF tends to take over the reins when I've had a few too many. Also, its probably not so satisfying when I'm stuck in 91N traffic on the way up to Okemo, as Max would know, or 495 on the way to the cape or vineyard. But hey, I got big calves, I could probably handle it.

 

The FX300 sounds money, really. I think in the future I will run a 16 or 18g, and my main concern is if it will handle the power for plenty of miles to come. I really like how m sprank and others compared it to the stock feel as well.

 

And the Spec 2+, well I just like that one bc Max likes that one, and I think our driving styles/habits are relatively similar. I'd ultimately like something that I could autocross with as well. I'm thinking about taking that up in the future. Not sure if that helps.

 

FWs I'm kind of confused about. I don't know whether to go with 06 wrx one, or a LWFW of any brand, I dont even know if the WRX IS a LWFW:lol:

"Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left."
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I can somewhat vouche for Spec's stage 2+. I have been "stage 3" for about 3000 miles now and the clutch has almost 6k miles. This 2+ clutch has a new design now i suppose because its a full face 6 puck. It doesnt look like the disc in the sale pictures. I thought i recieved the wrong disc but I was told it was the right one, just their new 2+. It is slightly annoying in stop and go traffic but nowhere near as bad as a regular 6 puck. The 2+ grabs REALLY well and its absolutely amazing.

 

As far as the other clutches you listed, i heard they are really good but i hear the FX300 is more worth your money. I obviously don't know per say but I know a few people that like them real well.

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Sounds like Spec's new stage 2+ is more like Comps 2300 (stage3) segmented Kevlar.

 

CMFX300 is way too soft for me. It is lighter than stock. Spring back is better than stock, but still too vague for me. I look at the FX300 as the clutch the car should have come with from the factory. But, if going for more than 350whp, not my choice. But, I have been driving race clutches for over 20 years, so my preference is not everyone's.

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Its a pretty good clutch. I am happy with my 2+. my stage 2 glazed pretty quick but this one is holding real well. Im getting ready to build my block and buy a 30 or 35r and then get custom fabrication done for a different rotated setup.

Long story short, with all the parts and money, im shooting for 400-450whp max. Needless to say, we will see how long it takes for this clutch to burn out Haha.

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06 WRX is a single mass FW. Lighter than the 05-06 LGT dual mass. But still heavy. Aftermarket LWFW's are about 10lbs lighter.

 

I would go with the 06 WRX flywheel and Spec 2+ if I had it to do over again.

 

It took a while for the full breakin years ago, but this thing still grabs well and consistant. The GF doesn't mind it either. Well, except for when it smacks her head against the head rest and pushes her into the seat. I lite the tires a bit getting into traffic the other day around the shopping mall, she did make a comment...

 

It's been in there since Jun 26 2007 at 74,900 miles.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I would go with the 06 WRX flywheel and Spec 2+ if I had it to do over again.

 

It took a while for the full breakin years ago, but this thing still grabs well and consistant. The GF doesn't mind it either. Well, except for when it smacks her head against the head rest and pushes her into the seat. I lite the tires a bit getting into traffic the other day around the shopping mall, she did make a comment...

 

It's been in there since Jun 26 2007 at 74,900 miles.

 

:lol:

"Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left."
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