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Going stage 2, which clutch?


Zac88

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Competition Clutch 2100 is also very nice and far cheaper. It would probably surprise some people.

 

I hope to have at least a partial review of this clutch within the next couple of weeks. I'm having it installed on Friday, but will need to break it in before I can give proper driving impressions.

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06+ WRX 5MT and 07-09 LGT 5MT Flywheels and clutches are the same.

 

on and 05-06 LGT you need to get the "newer" flywheel and clutch combo because they came with the dual mass flywheel from the factory.

 

If you have an 05-06 LGT and are ditching the Dual Mass Flywheel you will also need to get the single mass flywheel bolts to go with it.

Just making sure, is it 06+ on the WRX FW and related components?

 

Most posts seem to say 2006 WRX only, just confirming before I take some 08 WRX clutch items.

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06+ WRX 5MT (Including 08-11) (STi 6MT stuff won't work)

07-09 LGT 5MT (Obviously Spec b 6MT stuff won't work)

 

-mike

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg

AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1(2971)| T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Dealer

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No one uses a FX200. I have never sold 1. Dont think anyone has, Lol.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/competiton-clutch-sale-new-clutch-4th-gen-lgt-5mt-163357p3.html

 

Post #35 is some feedback on the Comp 2100.

 

Never sold one either. Never saw one in a car. Never had someone bring one in for a clutch replacement...

 

If we do I'll keep you guys posted.

 

-mike

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg

AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1(2971)| T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Dealer

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

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Holds less power. Lighter clutch pedal pressure. Good and bad. Deal I have going on the 2100 is not going to get any better. Heck, a 5GL bucket of Extra-S retails for $200 plus shipping. I am including it for $100 delivered.
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I need to know asap if I need to order the FX300 or 2100 tonight by midnight so any help would be appreciated.

I haven't been dyno'd yet so I don't know my numbers but I usually go to the track on Thursdays and I do a bit of street racing here and there when challenged so what clutch would hold more power/torque in all honesty and proof?

I've got the CAI, Header, up, down, 3" exhaust, and bigger inlet on a custom Cobb tune for 93.

 

I know you can't really tell how much power I'll have by mods offhand but as a rough guess, which would be better? Thanks.

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Well the fx300 claims 110% increase in holding power over the factory clutch, the 2100 claims 80%

so if you're worried about power it would seem the fx300 is the way to go, but I can't give a personal recommendation as I haven't driven either.

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Make sure you drive that beast respectfully for the break in period. Seeing as Hurricane Irene wants to hit MD, I'm not going to be going to my dad's and I will have mine installed this week. Time to start pulling the wheels, IC, and the drive shaft seeing as that's all that is necessary for our beneficially roomful engine bays. ;)
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CM FX300 is good to about 350awtq. The 2100 is good to 450awtq. CM never states exact holding power, just gives percentage. Plus it is not 110% More than stock it is 110% of stock. Misleading advertising. Competetion Clutch tells you straight up what power levels they can hold.

 

If stage2 (sounds like it) then it depends on what you want in pressure and engagement. CMFX300 will feel like stock, too light for me. Comp 2100 will have more pressure, but a more positive engagement feel. Not vague, like the FX300 can be.

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I hope you guys don't mind me asking this here. I'm going BNR16g on E85 so with this turbo not sure if it would be stage 2.5 or 3. First I was set on going with the ACT setup, then there was all the talk of clutch chatter. Then I was all set on the CM FX300 because a good number of members said there was little to no chatter, good holding power and better clutch feel. Now it looks like the CM FX300 might not be enough for my "small" turbo upgrade. I like the idea of the lighter clutch feel with the CM FX300, but if it starts slipping on me not sure if that would be smart. Car will be a DD, but not driven every day. My stage 2 power levels right now are 240whp/280wtq so not sure what a 16g on E85 will do. The 2100 sounds interesting, but no reviews yet.
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Any aftermarket turbo is considered stage3. heck, a OEM turbo that did not come in the car is stage3. VF-39 swaps etc.

 

Chatter comes from the flywheeel. Not the clutch. LWFW have some deceleration chatter in general. Goes with the territory.

 

I linked a 2100 review a page or two back.

 

16g on e-85 is capable of 420awtq. Keep that in mind. With proper fueling 16g on e-85 runs 23psi peak and holds a good 22psi to redline.

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Any aftermarket turbo is considered stage3. heck, a OEM turbo that did not come in the car is stage3. VF-39 swaps etc.

 

Chatter comes from the flywheeel. Not the clutch. LWFW have some deceleration chatter in general. Goes with the territory.

 

I linked a 2100 review a page or two back.

 

16g on e-85 is capable of 420awtq. Keep that in mind. With proper fueling 16g on e-85 runs 23psi peak and holds a good 22psi to redline.

 

Thanks for the info! I went back and read the link, don't know how I missed that.

 

So in my situation (16g/e85 soon!) do you think the 2100 would be fine or would the 2300 work better. Seems like I'd be getting close to the limits of the 2100. I'd also go with the OEM SMFW and try to sell the LWFW.

 

I might have to get this sooner then I thought. Don't feel any clutch slipage, but I'm getting a "vibrating" sound when I start off in 1st.

 

Would this be a good time to do the front LSD or is that a whole other can of worms? Just trying to group these upgrades so I don't have to spend any more on install labor.

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I'm just going to wrap a dinner plate in foil and paper, and use that as my clutch and use tree branches for axles. Perfect stage 2 set up. Hahaha.

 

In all honesty, from all the research on Competition I have done, they are the better direction to lean towards. They have extreme lifespans, given you don't go speed racer every time you pull out. If I hadn't already ordered my spec 2+ and didn't have to worry about my budget over the next 2 weeks, I'd have already ordered the Comp clutch. I'm hoping this 2+ does a hell of a lot better of a job than the standard stage 2 did.

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Thanks for the info! I went back and read the link, don't know how I missed that.

 

So in my situation (16g/e85 soon!) do you think the 2100 would be fine or would the 2300 work better. Seems like I'd be getting close to the limits of the 2100. I'd also go with the OEM SMFW and try to sell the LWFW.

 

Would this be a good time to do the front LSD or is that a whole other can of worms? Just trying to group these upgrades so I don't have to spend any more on install labor.

 

2300 if you are running 850cc and e-85. Also if you have any inkling of going bigger. Otherwise you could get away with a 2100.

 

Front diff is a whole other can of worms. If it needs replacing, now is the time. But upgrading usually means a 6MT and front diff, and drive shaft and axles.

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Why is that BTW? What exactly is making contact to make that sound?

 

It's nothing making contact. It has to do with resonance, and the fact that there is less mass to dampen the incremental rotational irregularities caused by lash built into the transmission design.

 

Chatter and Shudder are not the same thing, though. Some clutches, like the Exedy Stage-1 are prone to shuddering, even with a stock flywheel. I think it's probably due to manufacturing processes of the clutch itself.

 

My hesitation towards clutchmasters, is the fact that they recommend going to a pad-style clutch at stupendously low power levels. If you are stage-2, you are already pushing the limits of their FX300. Seems off to me.

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