ktmrider

Could have sworn there is a national recall for rusty rear brake lines. Check with you local dealer, if so you're covered.

I work on the peninsula quite often, just flew out yesterday. Going back in two weeks for a bit, may ping you for a viewing pending home boss discussion.

Very nice vehicle, solid mechanicals and upgrades. AC good? Ever get to the Bay area?

Yes we did. I ended up moving to Portland in 2017, drove the car up from ABQ. Ended up swapping titles out for another 05 LGT with auto when my daughter got ready to drive ( not a great place to learn for a new driver ). She totaled it about 2 months later ( no one hurt thank goodness ). Got her a 2012 Impreza 2.0i for replacement, still going strong. The 6mt sedan changed hands a few times, heard from the current owner the engine was sick ( someone after me played with the tune ).

Good golly, in my "old" backyard too ( ABQ for a long time ). We're in the 'Q next month for my father's 80th, would be so much fun to talk the home boss into a diversion LOL ( yeah right ).

Good deal. This thread has helped a number of people with the shutdown issue: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/loss-off-power-radio-and-climate-control-3459.html

You at Ronler Acres facility? Pic looks like the parking structure. Used to see a white wagon over there with gold BBS hoops. GL with the sale.

Quick question, when you installed the JMP turbo did you change out any of the banjo bolts for ones with a larger orifice? If so it could be a cause of high oil consumption ( higher pressure pushes oil out of the turbo bearings and into the impeller areas ).

Anyone know about the fitment for 2016+ Camaro Brembos? Couple of sets local but couldn't locate any info on the Camaro vs Caddy stuff.

Yes you are correct. I missed that you installed a Spec-B trans, my comment about swapping NSS sensors is for the STI 'box into a 2005 Leggy. Shimming the NSS should solve your problem.

You need to use the switch from your 05 trans, check with this link: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/soa-5mt-cruise-control-fix-incompatible-ap-tdc-reflash-48638.html Basically the 2005 model used a Neutral Safety Switch that is opposite in function to the 2006+ models ( Normally Open on one, Normally Closed on the other ). IIRC I had to splice in the 2005 NSS due to the location on top/back of the 6MT trans. Also note you may have to shim the NSS if you continue to have issues.

Bezel is fine from 5MT, boot is way different. 6MT boot attaches to 5MT bezel in same way.

Absolutely correct, SpecB is longer. I confirmed this when I bought my pre-swapped LGT, PO gave me the shifter linkages ( he had not installed them ). Had them side/side, would say LGT stuff is around 20mm longer than STI. Obviously you can run with it, just puts the shifter arm forward a bit compared to the console.

Was getting ready to ask the exact same question, thx kred. I have the USDM 2004 STI box. Reason for me to install, I get a slight popping/bind from the trans when taking off from a stop with the wheels turned ( leaving a driveway, entering the street, in a parking lot, etc ). Initially thought it was the front diff ( PO did not update sundials and it ran about 2qts low for a long time due to leaks ) but after talking to those familiar with DCCD I suspect the non-controlled lock position of 35/65 may be the root cause. Thanks for any info on this, worst case I/we may have to lead the way. May go the manual controller route first altho the "intelligent" models look pretty slick.

Just spent the day testing and changing my NSS. Confirmed, 2005 NSS is NO ( normally open ). Also confirmed on an STI switch, it is NC ( normally closed ). ASSuME the 06+ Leggy is NC but didn't test that one. My original switch would BARELY close/engage, had to be positioned just so else stayed Open. Got another from the boys at BoostInc then tested it before jacking the trans up in place ( BTW thanks KC and Mike for the Dogbone/Drop method info ). Quick test drive says good! Another reason I think it's resolved is that before the CC kicked off the throttle plate would "surge" when engaged. No more surge.

Again DN it ONLY applies to 2005 MY cars, not your 2009. Subaru fixed it on 2006+ vehicles by using the same NSS type switch. Link here for all the info: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/root-cause-cruise-control-failure-30814.html?highlight=cruise+control+washer AGAIN, only impacts 2005 MY vehicles. Subaru changed the 06+ Leggy switch to the same type as used on STI models, problem go bye-bye.

05-06 LGT ECU's were pretty much the same ( short of at least the NSS polarity and the 2005.5 fuel temp sensor thingy ). 07+ had CANBus so yeah I'd be extremely fearful on that causing issues. Again it was only the 2005 MY Leggies that had the NSS issue, 06+ cars have the same polarity NSS as the STI vehicles. Yes there was a TSB, it was to use the *522 ECU rom ( which I am running ). Yep, you could set NP but it would eventually kick the cruise off. Only way to reset was to power cycle the car but again it was a temporary fix. This kinda. NSS sensor had a plunger type actuator similar to a brake light switch. Spring was too light and would cause the actuator to go on/off instead of a steady state. *522 rom extended the sampling window and used a logic comparator to try and prevent the cutoff. Not all cars responded, my first 05 LGT did, but some like Scooby still had to re-shim the NSS. Basically a thinner washer put more load on the plunger, keeping it from cycling.

Right, I should have been more clear on the MY of the Legacy. 2005 model LGT had a "reverse polarity" on the NSS sensor compared to 06+ models. When swapping in ANY STI tranny to a 2005 LGT you HAVE to install the LGT sensor from the 5MT else cruise control would not work ( wouldn't Set in gear ). If you were not aware or forgot the NSS on a 6MT is at the top of the trans body and impossible to access w/o dropping the tranny down at least a few inches. My workaround is for those who didn't or forgot to swap the sensor prior to sinking the trans, upload an LGT ROM from a 2006 MY vehicle.

Bit of a side note to this. The 06+ LGT changed to the "reverse polarity" NSS like in the STI. I found that if you forgot to swap the switch out use a 2006 ECU ROM instead of the 2005 *522 map. Also eliminates the possible need to shim the NSS when cruise control drops out, supposedly changes the sample time/rate of the NSS when the signal is noisy.

Update time. Confirmed the PS/RH sundial part number(s): 1. Plate = 38342AA130 2. O-Ring = 806984040 3. Seal = 806735300 ( repost from other threads ) Installed everything 12/23 and put on 30 miles around town. So far so good! Not a drop of fluid this AM with the oil level slightly above "F" on the stick. Also an update on Lash/Diff. I found a YouTube from ErictheCarGuy, he posted a bit from the Service Manual which I found helpful. Link here, good stuff starts around 5:30ish: 1. Initial tension is set with the LH/DS plate. Tighten plate ( while loosening the RH plate ) until pinion or output shaft will not turn anymore. Then back off plate 3 notches or teeth. 2. Confused on RH side via video. See what you think. I used the "rock n roll" method on the RH/PS side. Made contact with the plate to bearing, marked the location, then rotated 3/4 turn. Grabbed the axle cup and moved up/down/around, lots of play. Rotated the plate until radial play of axle cup was neglible, then tightened two teeth/notches. Side note, rotational count of plate when removing was 2.25 turns. Final setting was 2 turns plus two teeth. Again not the ideal method, as mentioned before I'll likely replace the front diff at a future date.

Good question, not a lot of answers. Dealership tech only knew the "count out" method ( count the number of turns when removing ). Since I didn't have that as a reference on the LH sundial I asked the local Scooby shop how many turns it usually takes to remove the tension plate by hand. Generally it's between 0.5 and 0.75 turns. So I went about 0.60 turns from bearing race contact. The dealership did print the install instructions. No mention of generic setting ( again count-out ) but it did include pinion depth info. One tooth of rotation = 0.020mm of depth change. Lash setting is between 0.13 and 0.17mm, using ONLY the RH side sundial for adjustment. Does require removal of trans or at least the tail section to measure properly ( backlash can be measured thru the drain hole with dial gauge ). So way not the right way to do things, worst case I replace the center diff with something a bit more aggressive down the road....

Got the AA161 sundial/plate for the DS installed yesterday. No leak at all! Got it for $60 at a local stealership, well worth the money. Yes did the seal and o-ring too. Next will be the PS/right plate ( which is seeping despite the new seal ).

Update to my query, Nabisco to the rescue! Link here: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1097352 See the last page for pics of the delta. Here is the other reason I wanted to switch, notice the difference in stub vs male axle seal mating surface:

Another Q Zorro, can you confirm the 5MT NSS went into the trans? I get a NSS code when trying to use cruise control and there are two wires hanging down the side/rear of the tranny ( assume they are NSS as the reverse lights work properly ). Thanks for any confirmation.

Update on part #'s and info on Left/Front diff retainer ( Sundials ): Trans Production Date Part Number 200210 - 200306 6MT 38342AA110 200306 - 200308 6MT 38342AA170 200309 - 200403 6MT 38342AA160 200401 - 200505 6MT 38342AA160 200504 - 200512 6MT 38342AA160 200601 - 200606 6MT 38342AA161 200606 - 200706 6MT 38342AA161 This also jives with a conversation about 6MT trannies using Stub Shaft vs Male Axles. Most 2004 USDM STI has stubs however he's seen 2005 US MY cars with stubs. I ordered the *161 plate as Zorro listed, hopefully when it comes it has the open seal retainer design. Cost $66, worst case the current one is pretty chewed up.