Official 5th Generation Suspension Thread

[GTEASER]

I pretty much answered my own question about bottoming out the insert into the housing with this pic:

[ATTACH]267312[/ATTACH]

 

Here is what mine looked like:

[ATTACH]267313[/ATTACH]

 

My question still remains about how long do I have to get this straightened out without causing damage? (I imagine I'm already risking it though)

Nope, no good. That needs to be all the way down in the donor. My guess is that you didn't cut the donor low enough and the top fluted section of the Koni above the nubs is getting stuck at the top of the donor's tube. After the cut, I always use a bench mounted belt sander to take down the last 1/8 to 1/4 inch of housing to get past the mushroomed section of the tube caused by the pipe cutter, and to get the right measurement of 11-7/8" to 12" on the inside, using a tape no wider than 3/4" otherwise the width of a wider tape doesn't measure all the way to the bottom of the donor due to the curved bottom.

 

Did you get hardened bolts at the hardware store to do the "sucking" down into the donor? That allen head bolt that Koni supplies takes a beating if you use it to do the sucking. I don't EVER install that until the insert is bottomed out in the donor and I'm torquing it with Loctite.

 

I hope you didn't hammer on the top of the insert to get it started in the donor. It will leak.

Edited July 23, 2018 by GTEASER

[Loya1ty]

Nope, no good. That needs to be all the way down in the donor. My guess is that you didn't cut the donor low enough and the top fluted section of the Koni above the nubs is getting stuck at the top of the donor's tube. After the cut, I always use a bench mounted belt sander to take down the last 1/8 to 1/4 inch of housing to get past the mushroomed section of the tube caused by the pipe cutter, and to get the right measurement of 11-7/8" to 12" on the inside, using a tape no wider than 3/4" otherwise the width of a wider tape doesn't measure all the way to the bottom of the donor due to the curved bottom.

 

Did you get hardened bolts at the hardware store to do the "sucking" down into the donor? That allen head bolt that Koni supplies takes a beating if you use it to do the sucking. I don't EVER install that until the insert is bottomed out in the donor and I'm torquing it with Loctite.

 

I hope you didn't hammer on the top of the insert to get it started in the donor. It will leak.

 

Damn.. I'm pretty sure I measured out 11-7/8" though. Here are some pics of the 2 cuts I performed. IIRC, after the first guided cut along the silver cap I was left with 12-3/4" of tube. I then measured out the remaining distance (7/8") and performed the second cut.

 

Here are the struts once inserted.. I have the black sleeves on, but you can see the lip pretty easily. It looks like I definitely have too much insert remaining above the housing.

 

I'm thinking I was getting nervous about torquing too hard and let that energy cloud all of my prep info (i.e. knowing I should pull it all the way).

 

And yes, I got a separate bolt to do the heavy work. No hammering or hitting, but I did apply some static pressure to get the insert down to the nubs, along with a light oiling to help it along.

 

So with all of that. What next? Should I plan on cranking again this weekend? I'd need to drive 3 hours back to PA.. unless I can find someone in Northern VA that has a driveway/garage, jack/jackstands, and a vice clamp.

Edited July 25, 2018 by Loya1ty
Cleaning up for scrolling.

[GTEASER]

I use different length bolts and some washers to get intermediate lengths on the bolts. If they are too long they will bottom out in the insert threads and no amount of force will suck the insert in any farther. It takes about all the force I can put on it with an 18" breaker bar, and an 18" screwdriver through the strut mount holes to keep the strut body from spinning on the work bench, to get the nubs down into the donor and the insert seated on the strut body. I'm not a big dude, 5-11, 175.

 

I typically make my pipe cutter cut 1-1/4" down from the silver cap, just as far as can be done without the spring perch interfering, and then grind another 1/8" off with the belt sander to be assured all of the mushroomed metal won't interfere with the inserts tube diameter. Typically a little paint is scraped off the insert as it goes in.

Edited July 24, 2018 by GTEASER

[Loya1ty]

I use different length bolts and some washers to get intermediate lengths on the bolts. If they are too long they will bottom out in the insert threads and no amount of force will suck the insert in any farther. It takes about all the force I can put on it with an 18" breaker bar, and an 18" screwdriver through the strut mount holes to keep the strut body from spinning on the work bench, to get the nubs down into the donor and the insert seated on the strut body. I'm not a big dude, 5-11, 175.

 

I typically make my pipe cutter cut 1-1/4" down from the silver cap, just as far as can be done without the spring perch interfering, and then grind another 1/8" off with the belt sander to be assured all of the mushroomed metal won't interfere with the inserts tube diameter. Typically a little paint is scraped off the insert as it goes in.

 

That makes me feel a bit better about it. I really appreciate the extra insight from your many built sets. Looks like I'll be lifting the car up again this weekend and finishing those out. Now only if I can get some LCA bushing before then..

[Loya1ty]

I just got the vehicle aligned yesterday because I wanted to be safe (and it went in for the safety inspection), but when I got home the invoice said castor and camber would be additional charges.. I'm trying to figure out what exactly they did.. the toe?

 

Either way, I feel pretty good about going through the DIY approach with some string/90 degree type rigs that I've come across on the forums and teh webz. Any tips?

 

Do you recommend getting an aftermarket camber bolt for the lower one, or will the top OEM provide me the range I need? I'm definitely trying to avoid paying another $100 after taking the struts off again.

 

With the Koni/H&R set up, it's definitely sitting lower and looks great. I'll get some pics this weekend after I clean her up.

[Golferdude1087]

Better struts/shocks will get rid of the instability (wander) on the highway.

 

But I like to wander...lol

[coco26]

Do you recommend getting an aftermarket camber bolt for the lower one, or will the top OEM provide me the range I need? I'm definitely trying to avoid paying another $100 after taking the struts off again.

 

Stock camber bolt is more than enough, I experienced -2 to at least +0.5 in the front, lowered about an inch.

[fedaykin]

I just got the vehicle aligned yesterday because I wanted to be safe (and it went in for the safety inspection), but when I got home the invoice said castor and camber would be additional charges.. I'm trying to figure out what exactly they did.. the toe?

Toe adjustment is the easiest so they do that and away you go. Caster and camber takes longer to fiddle with so they charge a lot more for it.

[GTEASER]

Of camber and caster, the only adjustment on our cars is camber in the front and it's easy. Rear has no camber adjustment and caster is not adjustable in the front.

 

If that shop is charging $100 for a little toe adjustment front and rear, they're taking advantage of every single customer, it's disgusting. I got a full custom alignment to my specific requirements, camber adjustment front and rear (adjustable LCAs) and the guy spent 2+ hours on it, and it cost $120. It was spot on, not just kinda close.

[Loya1ty]

Thanks, and no doubt they are taking advantage. There wasn't even an alignment report provided (my wife took it to the shop while I was at work). I'll probably drive over sometime over the next two days to ask some questions..

 

They are usually good over there for the basic stuff as a local chain shop, and aren't super pushy about all the extra suggestions even though it's clear they want more sales from you even if it's not needed.

 

Anything major I take the car out 45 min to the Subaru specialty shop. As long as the car isn't all over the road, I'll probably just wait and risk any short term tire wear until the fall to take it there for a good aligning - since I've decided to wait on the bushings. Not feeling dropping another $150 right now.

[Golferdude1087]

Thanks, and no doubt they are taking advantage. There wasn't even an alignment report provided (my wife took it to the shop while I was at work). I'll probably drive over sometime over the next two days to ask some questions..

 

They are usually good over there for the basic stuff as a local chain shop, and aren't super pushy about all the extra suggestions even though it's clear they want more sales from you even if it's not needed.

 

Anything major I take the car out 45 min to the Subaru specialty shop. As long as the car isn't all over the road, I'll probably just wait and risk any short term tire wear until the fall to take it there for a good aligning - since I've decided to wait on the bushings. Not feeling dropping another $150 right now.

 

If you are on konis, youre not going to want to get the alignment until they have had 500 or so miles to settle in. It won't hurt tire wear much and prevents needing it again once the konis have settled.

[Humble Rumble]

So I'm having a slight, minor issue with my wheels destroying the bumper pop-clip that's located on the inside upper corner of the front wheel wells. It doesn't fully destroy it (well, it has once or twice), but rather usually just destroys the outer plastic ring, leaving the push button intact, which makes removing the clip much more difficult. For reference, I'm on 19x8.5 +45 on 245/40/19, with Koni's in KYB struts assembled by GTeaser, with Eibach Pro-Kit springs, so a 1" drop. I have not rolled my fenders at all, but this doesn't seem related to that since I don't appear to be contacting the actual fender metal. I usually run the front Koni's at 3/4 turns from full soft in the front and 1/2 turn in the rear.

 

I'm trying to figure out exactly why this is happening and the best way to address it. It happens on both sides, but I've noticed it happens more often and quicker on the driver's side. I know my fitment and drop are not overly aggressive, and plenty run the same fitment even dropped a bit lower. I'm wondering if maybe I have too much caster? I dug out my alignment sheet from when I got the suspension install 4 months ago and I have +6.30 caster on driver's side and +5.70 passenger's side, but I was told that's within normal spec. I also know the car naturally sits slightly lower on the driver's front. Could it be the softness setting on the Konis? Though much stiffer than I have it would be unpleasant to drive. Or it possibly be down to the spring rate of the Eibachs? I know they're only slightly stiffer than the '13 springs, and linear as opposed to the progressive spring rate of the H&R's, maybe that progressive rate would help keep things from compressing to the point where it would contact that part of the wheel well?

 

I do have a brand new set of H&R springs that I was planning to swap to because I'm not happy with the rear wheel gap from the Eibachs (which also gave me a bit of a rake), but unfortunately I am incapable of swapping them myself, would have to have my shop do it. Just looking on thoughts and ideas or possible solutions.

[GTEASER]

If you are on konis, youre not going to want to get the alignment until they have had 500 or so miles to settle in. It won't hurt tire wear much and prevents needing it again once the konis have settled.

Konis are shocks, they don't need time to settle. The springs do. H&R take the longest, 1000 miles or so. Eibachs settle pretty quick.

[GTEASER]

So I'm having a slight, minor issue with my wheels destroying the bumper pop-clip that's located on the inside upper corner of the front wheel wells. It doesn't fully destroy it (well, it has once or twice), but rather usually just destroys the outer plastic ring, leaving the push button intact, which makes removing the clip much more difficult. For reference, I'm on 19x8.5 +45 on 245/40/19, with Koni's in KYB struts assembled by GTeaser, with Eibach Pro-Kit springs, so a 1" drop. I have not rolled my fenders at all, but this doesn't seem related to that since I don't appear to be contacting the actual fender metal. I usually run the front Koni's at 3/4 turns from full soft in the front and 1/2 turn in the rear.

 

I'm trying to figure out exactly why this is happening and the best way to address it. It happens on both sides, but I've noticed it happens more often and quicker on the driver's side. I know my fitment and drop are not overly aggressive, and plenty run the same fitment even dropped a bit lower. I'm wondering if maybe I have too much caster? I dug out my alignment sheet from when I got the suspension install 4 months ago and I have +6.30 caster on driver's side and +5.70 passenger's side, but I was told that's within normal spec. I also know the car naturally sits slightly lower on the driver's front. Could it be the softness setting on the Konis? Though much stiffer than I have it would be unpleasant to drive. Or it possibly be down to the spring rate of the Eibachs? I know they're only slightly stiffer than the '13 springs, and linear as opposed to the progressive spring rate of the H&R's, maybe that progressive rate would help keep things from compressing to the point where it would contact that part of the wheel well?

 

I do have a brand new set of H&R springs that I was planning to swap to because I'm not happy with the rear wheel gap from the Eibachs (which also gave me a bit of a rake), but unfortunately I am incapable of swapping them myself, would have to have my shop do it. Just looking on thoughts and ideas or possible solutions.

Pull your front fenders a bit. Easy to do yourself with some patience and gentle hands.

[Humble Rumble]

Where/what exactly am I'm pulling? I know the term, never actually been certain on the process.

[Golferdude1087]

Konis are shocks, they don't need time to settle. The springs do. H&R take the longest, 1000 miles or so. Eibachs settle pretty quick.

I put new springs with the konis and that was like 2 years ago..i kinda forgot..oops

 

Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk

[Perscitus]

tdck is now offering transmission mount inserts (different hardness, color, etc.) for most of the 5th and 6th gen slushboxes (5EATs, CVTs, HTCVTs). Legacy/Outbacks, XV Crosstreks, Imprezas, soon also FXTs, WRXs, Levorgs:

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/cvt-transmission-mount-insert-cke-ssp-267950.html?t=267950&highlight=cvt+insert

[Loya1ty]

Got it all sorted out on Saturday. Only took me about 2 hours too! I've restored my confidence in wrenching. Just have to not be a b*tch when torquing

 

A thread for old parts if anyone is interested: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/nova-oem-13-springs-and-rear-shocks-270919.html?p=5818079#post5818079

 

Having issues uploading pics again. I'll get em up tomorrow.

[Loya1ty]

Thought I'd make it to the spring to replace the bushings.. but I think the stiffer suspension did 'em in. Hearing a little bit of clunking in the front-right. Here are the bushings from when I did the struts/springs:

Left:

Right:

[Humble Rumble]

Those look almost identical to mine. Planning on replacing them over the next year.

[Timothy.B]

tdck is now offering transmission mount inserts (different hardness, color, etc.) for most of the 5th and 6th gen slushboxes (5EATs, CVTs, HTCVTs). Legacy/Outbacks, XV Crosstreks, Imprezas, soon also FXTs, WRXs, Levorgs:

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/cvt-transmission-mount-insert-cke-ssp-267950.html?t=267950&highlight=cvt+insert

 

Yesssss. I've got the 5EAT one which is kinda half way between the RalliTEK "soft" and "hard".

 

I also have bushings for the front and rear sway bars. He did a great job re-creating them.

[Shadow_419]

Thought I'd make it to the spring to replace the bushings.. but I think the stiffer suspension did 'em in. Hearing a little bit of clunking in the front-right. Here are the bushings from when I did the struts/springs:

 

Those look almost identical to mine. Planning on replacing them over the next year.

 

Don't be a dummy like I was replacing the arms recently. I replaced the entire arm with new ball joint from Subaru. If going that route, pop the axles out heat the knuckle and the ball joint comes out easy enough. Don't bang on the arm like I was trying to get it out. If you have no rust in your area maybe, otherwise go with a map torch and heat it up. Breaker bar / impact + penetrant for the bushing bolts.

[garygbnj]

I want to retain oem ride and handling. Looking for quick struts. The only maker I can find is FCS. Are they any good? KYB does not make quick struts for my car and Monroe only makes for the front, no rears. Thanks

[dgoodhue]

I want to retain oem ride and handling. Looking for quick struts. The only maker I can find is FCS. Are they any good? KYB does not make quick struts for my car and Monroe only makes for the front, no rears. Thanks

 

The rears are technically shocks. The rear are easier to do than the fronts.

[DrD123]

Tired of bottoming out my suspension when the car is fully loaded on speed bumps, etc... I am thinking '13 springs and Koni's all around... For the Koni's I need p/n 8010-1055S for the rear and 8610-1447S for the front. However, I thought i had read that the WRX fronts are more or less the same, except with a slightly longer max extension (so p/n 8610-1453S for the front) and the same shock body length.

 

Is that correct? I am a little leery of exploring the WRX option as it's a lighter car and maybe the valving is different?