Official 5th Generation Suspension Thread

[coco26]

I've been browsing as much as possible, but I had an idea that may or may not work for what I want. What I want is a less floppy suspension and a very slight drop, for as cheap as possible (but still done right). My original options were either tein coilovers or the diy koni/eibach setup as detailed on here. I consigned myself to spending the 1k+ for the koni setup, based on the fact that the teins dropped too far (1.4" minimum). Then I had the idea: Why can't I get the teins (half the price of koni setup) and add a "lift" kit? Combine the 1.4" drop and .75-1" lift and I'm right where I want to be, now with the added feature of adjustability.

 

I know the tein lineup is cheap for a reason, and I'm not expecting them to last long. I just wanted to post this in here to see if there was something I was missing.

[GTEASER]

I've been browsing as much as possible, but I had an idea that may or may not work for what I want. What I want is a less floppy suspension and a very slight drop, for as cheap as possible (but still done right). My original options were either tein coilovers or the diy koni/eibach setup as detailed on here. I consigned myself to spending the 1k+ for the koni setup, based on the fact that the teins dropped too far (1.4" minimum). Then I had the idea: Why can't I get the teins (half the price of koni setup) and add a "lift" kit? Combine the 1.4" drop and .75-1" lift and I'm right where I want to be, now with the added feature of adjustability.

 

I know the tein lineup is cheap for a reason, and I'm not expecting them to last long. I just wanted to post this in here to see if there was something I was missing.

 

This is essentially what I am doing on my Forester. I installed 2014 STi OEM springs/shocks which would have resulted in a -3.5" drop from stock. I didn't want it that low, so I added 1" tophat spacer for a resultant -2.5" drop.

 

Those Tein coilovers use stock tophats, so I don't see why you can't use tophat spacer to lift it back up a bit. ADF, Paranoid Fabrications, Subtle Solutions and Primitive all make tophat spacers that will work. You may need an additional set of stock tophats which you will have to remove the tophat studs from to add extended hardware for the spacers.

[coco26]

Thanks for the tips, I'll likely replace the tophats either way because salt.

 

Here's a typical forum style question: Is there an amount of drop where bushings/control arms/etc HAVE to be changed to keep alignment settings reasonable? I know it depends on the amount of adjustability I want, but from what I've read its around 1" where camber gets hard to keep near-spec.

[GTEASER]

Yes, I would say 1" to 1.25" lowered from stock is where you want to think about camber correction and possibly get into some hard bushings to maintain geometry throughout the suspension travel.

[A_A_ron]

I've been searching all over the site but I can't find any walk through on a FSB install. Anyone have a link?

[islandborn]

I've been searching all over the site but I can't find any walk through on a FSB install. Anyone have a link?

 

Lift engine, replace FSB, drop engine.

[Humble Rumble]

I've been searching all over the site but I can't find any walk through on a FSB install. Anyone have a link?

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2013-3-6r-front-sway-bar-install-2010-192270.html

 

Here's the step-by-step process for doing it on a 3.6R, and like islandborn mentioned, you'll have to add the step of lifting the engine in order to get the bar out and in for the GT.

[A_A_ron]

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2013-3-6r-front-sway-bar-install-2010-192270.html

 

Here's the step-by-step process for doing it on a 3.6R, and like islandborn mentioned, you'll have to add the step of lifting the engine in order to get the bar out and in for the GT.

 

Okay so it's confirmed you have to lift the engine, it can't be 'wiggled' out sideways by taking a wheel off?

[Humble Rumble]

Nope. It can be wiggled out of the 3.6 by removing a tie-rod but the GT has a different shaped oil pan (I believe that's what the obstruction was) that gets in the way and requires engine lifting.

[A_A_ron]

Oh yeah, there's a massive U in the middle of the sway bar that is probably 5 inches of the center line of the sway bar axis. For the longest time when changing my oil I thought it was a protector for the oil pan and drain plug, it looked soo odd. When I started researching sway bars it dawned on me. Thanks for the tip. There's a guy hosting a group garage day near me and I want to finally knock this out. I might have to take boat loads of pictures so other people can see it. Rare car but could be helpful to someone.

[Loya1ty]

So I'm a bit of a legacy noob and having been searching around the forums for some info (own a 08 impreza and frequent nasoic). The wife's '13 legacy just hit 150k miles and I'm thinking it's time to replace the stock struts and springs, along with some other suspension bits. It's mostly a commuter, so something similar to stock would be preferred. Any input on a safe, budget friendly set up? Just as important though, those other suspension bits that folks usually don't think about that you'd recommend replacing would be extremely helpful. Trying to go to 300k

 

I have oem wrx struts and RCE blacks on my impreza and I would say that's stiffer than what I want on the legacy...

[Sarang]

Do you want something stiffer than stock? Do you want a drop at all?

 

I have 2013 3.6R springs and KYB struts on my LGT and I like them. I would call that a safe, budget friendly setup.

The Eibach springs are supposed to be similar to stock with a 1" drop, after that everything is stiffer I think.

For struts, there is an adjustable Koni option and Cusco makes some that I have not seen reviewed.

[Loya1ty]

Do you want something stiffer than stock? Do you want a drop at all?

 

I have 2013 3.6R springs and KYB struts on my LGT and I like them. I would call that a safe, budget friendly setup.

The Eibach springs are supposed to be similar to stock with a 1" drop, after that everything is stiffer I think.

For struts, there is an adjustable Koni option and Cusco makes some that I have not seen reviewed.

 

Not too much stiffer, but willing to accept it for better handling. This thing seems like a boat sometimes, but mostly due to my 08 being like a go-kart.

 

I'd be happy with the 1 inch drop. The wheel gaps on oem set ups these days are atrocious. I'll search the Eibach set ups on here and on teh webz. Thanks!

 

Also taking it to a local subie shop next Wed. for the major interval, so I'll have their take on recommendations.

[dgoodhue]

At 150k the factory stuff struts are probably worn out. The front LCA rear pancake bushings are probably torn as well. The cheap way to fix it would be new rear bushing (or control arms) and struts. if you want to get a little further into it, new front and rear struts mounts.

 

If you want to put some money towards improving the handling over stock - lower springs, Koni and 20mm 2015+ WRX rear sway bar.

[Sarang]

The '13+ springs with a rear sway bar solve the boaty feel. It feels like a sport sedan should from the factory. If you want more than a stock like feel, then definitely investigate the Eibachs.

 

And to reinforce dgoodhue, seriously, that rear sway bar make a huge positive difference. It changes the car.

[DugsSin]

……. and some RSB braces http://www.avoturboworld.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/24/products_id/377

………. and stiffer bushings http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/65-parts-accessories-performance/493955-cke-ssp-super-summer-sale-2nds.html

MOOG endlinks and

[Loya1ty]

I'm really tempted to splurge for the Konis.. but it seems as though the only option for our model years are the inserts? (i.e. needing to go the donor route). Might be more than I'm willing to spend time on, so the KYBs would be just fine for my use. Feel free to convince me otherwise .

Eibachs

Bushings

15 WRX RSB + Endlinks

I'll probably skip the braces and control arms (for now)

 

Time to start part/price searching.

[bigstrusk]

Latest version '13/14 KYBs treated me nicely. Granted I was coming from 2011 mushiness.

[Loya1ty]

I've convinced myself on the Konis.. I would definitely regret doing KYBs. Just gotta convince the Wifey now.

 

Also.. I've pretty much decided on all of my parts except the tophats. What are recommendations? I know I could probably keep the OEMs based on information across here, but what are the downsides to that or vice versa, the upside of using after markets?

 

And if you have any persuasive essays on the 'boat' effect that I can present my wife, that'd be great! The only thing I've got so far is taking on and off ramps faster than usual and say "SEE! This wouldn't happen with Konis!"

[stewdogg]

My wife and I took a nice twisty road ride the other night and she said that she felt less "sea sick" from the turns and dips. She said it felt "safer" and like it wasn't out of control. Usually she asks me to slow down on this road and that's just trying to keep with the speed limit. But, that is with a stiffer spring and 1" drop with the Eibach springs. Looks like you might have more to talk her into.

[dgoodhue]

And if you have any persuasive essays on the 'boat' effect that I can present my wife, that'd be great! The only thing I've got so far is taking on and off ramps faster than usual and say "SEE! This wouldn't happen with Konis!"

 

Better struts/shocks will get rid of the instability (wander) on the highway.

[FLlegacy]

I've convinced myself on the Konis.. I would definitely regret doing KYBs. Just gotta convince the Wifey now.

 

Also.. I've pretty much decided on all of my parts except the tophats. What are recommendations? I know I could probably keep the OEMs based on information across here, but what are the downsides to that or vice versa, the upside of using after markets?

 

And if you have any persuasive essays on the 'boat' effect that I can present my wife, that'd be great! The only thing I've got so far is taking on and off ramps faster than usual and say "SEE! This wouldn't happen with Konis!"

 

You could always rub some oil on the shocks and struts and claim they are leaking and on the way out...or just put them on and wait for her to notice. I am still waiting on the wife to notice its been at least a year maybe longer, but we rarely take my car anywhere.

[Loya1ty]

I'll be joining the Koni Krew..

 

If you see any items there of concern, feel free to let me know! The inserts are the 1447 (Fronts) and 1055 (Rears). Was originally going to go with Eibachs, but they would be special order and $35 more.. trying to get these done this weekend. Need to order some random hardware now just in case..

 

Also plan on sending the KYBs back. Those are my 'oh sh*t' contingency plan in case I screw this up.

 

Edit: Wish me luck! My first mod beyond plug-and-play installs, but thanks to the community here I have all the info I need! (don't forget the damn washers!)

Edited July 21, 2018 by Loya1ty
Added Content

[Loya1ty]

SO install complete... and it did not go smoothly. I literally spent the ENTIRE weekend

Hiccups:

1. Rain all weekend

2. Brother in-law's pipe cutter wasn't large enough - run to home depot

3. Father in-law didn't have a 9/16 or 1/2inch drill bit - separate run to home depot

4. Father in-law's garage is a MESS. Took me about 2 hours before starting to get tools in order, and probably another 1 or so during the install to make sure I had what I needed.

5. Advanced Auto didn't have the right tool to rent... bought what they had in store but didn't work with the lowering spring's spring gap - Ran to a new Harbor Freight in town (thank god) and got the ones I needed for $20

6. Are those Koni hex bolts made out of play-do?

 

With that out of the way.. I have an immediate concern regarding the inserts and the donor strut housing. I definitely measured the f*ck out of it and that is good. BUT after deburring, filing, and sanding the edge like hell, the insert still struggled to slide in easily (I wish I got a pic of it, but I feel like I got unlucky with a fat weld at the base of the insert -- I filed one down a bit but was too late for the other. totally shredded a sticker on one of them too). I eventually got the insert's nubs down to the housing's edge and began the threading to 'suck' it in.

 

I got the nubs to pull into the housing, but I don't think I made it a full 1/4inch. I have a photo from the bottom of the housing showing the donor threads still about 1/8in. Is that technically 'bottomed-out' since the strut housing is domed at the bottom? Both struts ended up like this which is why I didn't push my luck. For some reason all of my photo uploads keep failing.. will try again later.

 

I honestly couldn't torque anymore without feeling like I was going to damage something. Those suckers are tight!

 

Is this something I need to immediately correct and/or how long until I should rework it?

Will the insert settle down further from the weight of the car and bumps, causing the hex screw to stick out slightly where I can go under and tighten (I imagine the top strut bolt would need tightened too)? (Also see play-do comment) I want to order 2 spare screws for the future if I ever need to remove/reinstall.

 

My concern is that if I need to address immediately, I may be looking for someone in the N. VA area to give me a hand. The in-laws live 3 hours away in PA. I did drive the vehicle home last night, and it definitely felt improved on basic turns and on/off ramps notably (full turn on all 4 corners). I set the camber full neg, and will be getting an alignment over the next two days IF I don't need to wrench some more on these things.

 

Thanks in Advance.

Edited July 23, 2018 by Loya1ty
re-use for content

[Loya1ty]

I pretty much answered my own question about bottoming out the insert into the housing with this pic:

 

Here is what mine looked like:

 

My question still remains about how long do I have to get this straightened out without causing damage? (I imagine I'm already risking it though)

Edited July 23, 2018 by Loya1ty
Added pic