Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

TRS - The Retrofit Source Bi-xenon Morimoto Mini Stage III Kit (H1) Walkthrough...


Drew888

Recommended Posts

If I could improve on it though it would somehow be a bit wider. Is that controlled by the curvature of the lens?

 

^ i'm no expert -- but, i think this might be relevant to your question: just based upon my limited retro experience, i was almost immediately surprised at the size/width of that bowl in particular. the entire unit itself looks to be a good deal smaller/narrower than even the oem lgt piece.

 

definitely in for more output pics :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 306
  • Created
  • Last Reply
I believe it's under $350.
[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
Link to comment
Share on other sites

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
Link to comment
Share on other sites

where did you get the brackets? i dont see them on the site? also, did you have any trouble with the bixenon shields sticking? i'd imagine they are constantly improving the quality of these, but a few of the reviews, people are always fiddling with them to get them to work right.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nate at TRS called me yesterday to confirm my order. He informed me that due to feedback received from previous buyers, they are doing some slight modifications to the kit. He didn't go into detail as to what those modifications were, but he did say the kits are currently on backorder and will ship out around March 10 or so. I was hoping to get the kit here by the weekend, but at least they had the decency to call and explain the situation. I'm more than happy to wait a bit if it results in a better product.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Brackets are in the kit.

 

No way to know on a brand new kit. Check in with me in a year or two. I played around with them for a while and saw no way for them to stick unless there is something not right with the motor.

The shileds have no stiction (SP?)/resistance in their movement, they move very freely. I don't see how they might stick.

 

 

where did you get the brackets? i dont see them on the site? also, did you have any trouble with the bixenon shields sticking? i'd imagine they are constantly improving the quality of these, but a few of the reviews, people are always fiddling with them to get them to work right.
[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/vbpicgallery.php?do=view&g=1586"VbGallery/URL]
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I bought RX-330 projectors from TRS, they were good people to deal with.

 

I've done write-ups of just about everything I've done to my car but I made an exception in this case because I shot myself in the foot twice while I was at it. I'm still really happy with the extra light, but the details are a little embarrassing. :)

 

The cutoffs in your beamshot look perfect, much better than mine. I was adding washers to space the shield/lens further and further from the projector bowl, but I ran out of length on the screws that hold it all together. A couple more washers might have dialed it in.

 

And I damaged one of the ballasts because I didn't use thick enough insulation on some solder joints. HIDs get something like 15,000 volts to get started, and regular shrink-wrap just isn't up to the job (of course I learned that after observing the light show from the wrong side of the headlight). So I periodically have to cycle the headlight(s) a couple times to get the passenger side to light up. Lesson learned.

 

Anyway, this approach looks easier than the RX-330 swap that I did.

 

In what ways do you feel this approach is better than your previous setup? Is it brighter, or wider, or more even dispersion, or... ?

 

I have a friend who is looking into HID for his LGT and I was steering him toward a bulb kit, but since you've done both I'm really interested in your thoughts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Most HID's light off at 24,500V! If you licked the exit terminals, there's a good chance you wouldn't walk away.

 

Slvr- not really any way to do that. It'd be neat, but I don't think that's a retrofittable option.

 

As for the reliability of the switching solenoid, I talked to Matt at TRS extensively about it. In their test cases, they put more than a million cycles on the shifting mechanism with no degradation in performance or reliability. A million cycles is quite a few, and is usually significant to show that there will be no problem from material components. Electronically, it's tough to say, but the headlight is a sealed unit practically immune to moisture.

 

I bet it'll be fine.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
Link to comment
Share on other sites

it looks like he just is using the same stock setup with the connector inside the headlamp still and has the solenoid wires coming out the side and spliced into the high beam for the high beams. Then the actual bulb connectors are coming out of the cap. This is the passenger headlight so I assume he is using just the drivers side for the actual signaling of the lamps for the low beams etc...

 

Basically just the standard setup but with the solenoid wired into the high beams so that the bixenon's work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My chosen location of the ballast install, passenger side:

Installs nicely on the horn bracket.

 

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c132/Drew_Jones/08%20LGT%20Spec-B/Headlight%20Retrofit/IMGP2377.jpg

 

offtopic, but is that a stebel nautilus? i've got one on the m/c and am thinking about installing one on the car. did you just bolt it to the stock bracket or?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i know this is off topic but would doing this kit enable us to use hid levelers like whats on the 2011 sti?

 

 

I don't think so, no.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/vbpicgallery.php?do=view&g=1586"VbGallery/URL]
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Anyway, this approach looks easier than the RX-330 swap that I did.

 

In what ways do you feel this approach is better than your previous setup? Is it brighter, or wider, or more even dispersion, or... ?

 

I have a friend who is looking into HID for his LGT and I was steering him toward a bulb kit, but since you've done both I'm really interested in your thoughts.

 

This was extremely easy to do.

 

This kit is much brighter than the DDM kit I had before (both are 4300k, sorry guys, I'm behind the wheel and need to see. I don't give a crap what color people see as I pass them).

 

This kit has am amazing cut off compared to the OEM housigns/lens.

 

Jury is still out on how it compares width wise but I'd have to give the edge to the oem housings.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/vbpicgallery.php?do=view&g=1586"VbGallery/URL]
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use