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TRS - The Retrofit Source Bi-xenon Morimoto Mini Stage III Kit (H1) Walkthrough...


Drew888

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Nice. So far I'm really enjoying the MH1s... sharp, horizontal cutoff, good spread and even fill. I was able to get them lined up perfectly using the factory adjustment.

 

I modified the kit in the following ways:

 

- Painted the shield plate, shutter and hinge pieces using rustoleum high-heat black (matte finish) to reduce glare effects off the pieces.

- "Painted" the edge of the lens black with sharpie to reduce halo effect

- Modified the OEM harness (attached to headlight) so that the wires that go through the factory grommet and normally feed the low beam are tied to the high beam, and trigger the solenoid. All connections soldered and heat shrunk (where applicable). Used the factory heat/abrasion sheathing over the trigger wires inside the light.

- Completely rewired the relay harness for ideal + and ground cable length so that the fuse and relay could reside in the factory fuse/relay box. Also optimized the power feed and trigger wire length so it could be run in wire loom along factory wire routing locations.

- Put a dab of epoxy on the back of the trigger connector/terminals. The terminals were very loose in the connector shell and would back out when the connectors were plugged into each other.

 

Stuff I did not do, but would recommend:

 

- Apply heat resistant tape or JB Weld to cover the holes that are created as a result of the shield plate hinge feature. These holes create small rectangles above the cutoff line and off to the side. They aren't very noticeable, but you might as well take care of them if you have the opportunity.

- Double check the color at the cutoff against a flat surface at a reasonable distance before reassembling the headlights. I didn't (my car was on stands, at an angle in the garage) and it turns out one side has a slightly more indigo hue while the other is more violet. It is subtle, but I will always notice it and could have fixed it by slightly shimming the lens holder.

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Damn good info thanks for sharing this.

Nice. So far I'm really enjoying the MH1s... sharp, horizontal cutoff, good spread and even fill. I was able to get them lined up perfectly using the factory adjustment.

 

I modified the kit in the following ways:

 

- Painted the shield plate, shutter and hinge pieces using rustoleum high-heat black (matte finish) to reduce glare effects off the pieces.

- "Painted" the edge of the lens black with sharpie to reduce halo effect

- Modified the OEM harness (attached to headlight) so that the wires that go through the factory grommet and normally feed the low beam are tied to the high beam, and trigger the solenoid. All connections soldered and heat shrunk (where applicable). Used the factory heat/abrasion sheathing over the trigger wires inside the light.

- Completely rewired the relay harness for ideal + and ground cable length so that the fuse and relay could reside in the factory fuse/relay box. Also optimized the power feed and trigger wire length so it could be run in wire loom along factory wire routing locations.

- Put a dab of epoxy on the back of the trigger connector/terminals. The terminals were very loose in the connector shell and would back out when the connectors were plugged into each other.

 

Stuff I did not do, but would recommend:

 

- Apply heat resistant tape or JB Weld to cover the holes that are created as a result of the shield plate hinge feature. These holes create small rectangles above the cutoff line and off to the side. They aren't very noticeable, but you might as well take care of them if you have the opportunity.

- Double check the color at the cutoff against a flat surface at a reasonable distance before reassembling the headlights. I didn't (my car was on stands, at an angle in the garage) and it turns out one side has a slightly more indigo hue while the other is more violet. It is subtle, but I will always notice it and could have fixed it by slightly shimming the lens holder.

Mr.350
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  • 4 weeks later...
Depending on the GB pricing, I might be in for 2 sets.
[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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The end result...

 

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c132/Drew_Jones/08%20LGT%20Spec-B/Headlight%20Retrofit/IMGP2395.jpg

 

More pics to follow once I have them aligned properly.

 

Is it just me or does the passenger side not have the blue line on the cut off but the driver side has that blue line? I have this problem on mine too but i have the blue line on the passenger side and not on the driver side. I also have these Morimoto retros.

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The blue is due to the spacing of the shield. Try moving yours in just slightly and you will see how the color changes. FYI more orange/yellow tinge close up is lots of blue farther. Being that the morrimotto units use the type of mounting for the shield it's only normal for the units to not match up with color/clarity. Just do some tweaking and you can get them close to the same.
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Just waiting on guidelines of the Groupbuy, and then blessing from the powers at be to ramp up and start, and everything will kick off, TRS is constantly updating with revisions to all there products and from what I have seen have been A1 in getting back with the customer if there are ever any issues.
Mr.350
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Those are a great set of projectors, If only every projector could be as easy as the TRS line everyone would be properly illuminating the roads at night.

Just snagged a stage III FXr kit with a 25% discount from them. Too good to pass up! This is with the new improved ballasts and bulbs.
Mr.350
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Just waiting on guidelines of the Groupbuy, and then blessing from the powers at be to ramp up and start, and everything will kick off, TRS is constantly updating with revisions to all there products and from what I have seen have been A1 in getting back with the customer if there are ever any issues.

 

Ok, hopefully not too much longer. Want to install these before nov/dec.

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bump. with this kit, do you have to turn off the lights every time you get out of the car or is it auto off like the stock bulbs? Do you still have the ability to high beam flicker ppl?

 

thanks

"Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left."
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light still turns off automatically, but you should turn it off before starting the car so you can avoid firing the ballast twice in a short period of time

 

you can either keep the stock high beam or use the bi-xenon high beam or use both at the same time (4 high beams)

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light still turns off automatically, but you should turn it off before starting the car so you can avoid firing the ballast twice in a short period of time

 

you can either keep the stock high beam or use the bi-xenon high beam or use both at the same time (4 high beams)

 

correct me if im wrong, dont the lights stay on when you engage the starter? or with HIDs, does the starter suck to much power from the ballast to produce light?

 

I'm not good with shutting off the lights

"Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left."
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when you start up the car, all electronic gets shut off temporarily...headlights, music, and all of those

 

Not an issue if you use a relay.

 

The relay will remain energized even during the during-cranking voltage drop.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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Not an issue if you use a relay.

 

The relay will remain energized even during the during-cranking voltage drop.

 

BAC, what kind of relay should I use, and can I wire it into the fuse box under the hood? And can you recommend a good remote wire to tap into under the hood?

 

Thanks

"Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left."
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OK so the complete kit comes with the relay harness which is nice, I just don't know if it comes with the high beam splitter as I will be using the stock high beam....ill shoot them an email
"Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left."
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