TRS - The Retrofit Source Bi-xenon Morimoto Mini Stage III Kit (H1) Walkthrough...

[Underdog]

Good to know. Make sure you let Matt@TRS know too so he can fit it going forward.

 

A 3/16" drill should open up the holes to fit an M4 nicely. Is that what you used? Also, what was the pitch on the bolts?

 

I was going to start the headlights today but I am having too much fun making a custom wiring harness for my JDM tails.

[murdoc158]

Well the kit needed some mods. The new plates TRS supplied in the kit, all the holes where too small. Also the screws where too short. Make sure you can run to the local hardware store and get some M4x15mm to 20mm long screws, SHCS, or phillips drive. Other than that the kit installs pretty darn easily. It's still daytime so haven't had a chance to see the results.

 

Yep! Found that out as I was piecing everything together with my headlamps baking in the oven.

 

Just got done re-assembling everything without completing the swap. Guess I'm headed to the hardware store.

[murdoc158]

Got everything together last night after a trip to the hardware store. The install was so smooth and since I assembled the projectors to the brackets while my lights were baking I was able to just drop them in. I'll send Matt an email on Monday and let him know about the problems with the kit.

 

On a side note, has anyone else had problems getting the lights aimed properly? My driver side light aim came out perfect with a little adjustment. My passenger side however, is aimed really low and I've maxed out the adjustment on that side. The cutoff line is a good 3-4 inches lower that the driver side when facing a wall. Any ideas for brining the passenger side up farther?

[Underdog]

Did you already close up the headlights? You may have to shift the shield slightly.

 

I would move the adjustment back to center-of-range and try adjusting the shield to get you closer. Also, make sure everything is seated properly.

[camber]

Would an 05-07 have to disable the DRL function with these kits?

[murdoc158]

Did you already close up the headlights? You may have to shift the shield slightly.

 

I would move the adjustment back to center-of-range and try adjusting the shield to get you closer. Also, make sure everything is seated properly.

 

Yeah everything is closed up already. Referencing Drew's picture the shield you are talking about is the part that I mounted to the lasercut bracket? So loosen up the four nuts and move them? Since I'm coming out low, would I want to move that shield up or down?

 

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c132/Drew_Jones/08%20LGT%20Spec-B/Headlight%20Retrofit/IMGP2368.jpg

[MiniStiGuy]

Yes because you are still getting the signal from the cars lowbeam connection.

[Tomkat1127]

Would an 05-07 have to disable the DRL function with these kits?

 

Someone else can confirm this but I believe the 05-07 have DRL on the low beam, so Yes you would disable the DRL with any HID kit. 08+ run the DRL off high beams at half power.

I will still disable mine when I get a HID kit. Also, may do that fog light mod depending on what's involved.

[Scoobyvroom]

On a side note, has anyone else had problems getting the lights aimed properly? My driver side light aim came out perfect with a little adjustment. My passenger side however, is aimed really low and I've maxed out the adjustment on that side. The cutoff line is a good 3-4 inches lower that the driver side when facing a wall. Any ideas for brining the passenger side up farther?

 

Mine where the same but opposite. Passenger side perfect, drivers side WAY too low. Mine is a good foot low compared to the other at 25 feet.

[mr_luv]

Matt is aware of the issue and they are all being corrected as we speak. The brackets are going to take a little adjustment to be correct, and you may need to level out your adjustment bolts on the housings also.

[murdoc158]

The end result...

 

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c132/Drew_Jones/08%20LGT%20Spec-B/Headlight%20Retrofit/IMGP2395.jpg

 

More pics to follow once I have them aligned properly.

 

Did you ever get your alignment straightened out? Matt from TRS is wondering if he should make some more changes to the kit. My aim looks identical to yours (passenger side clearly lower than driver side) even after maxing out my adjustment. Scoobyvroom sounds like his is even worse. I don't think there is a need to make an adjustment for 2 odd aims, but if there are more perhaps an adjustment is needed.

[murdoc158]

Matt is aware of the issue and they are all being corrected as we speak. The brackets are going to take a little adjustment to be correct, and you may need to level out your adjustment bolts on the housings also.

 

For an adjustment, would you recommend a small washer between the bracket and the standoff that threads onto the screw or where the bracket mounts to the housing?

[mr_luv]

Yes exactly, sorry for not saying so. I used washers and trimmed one down a hair and it made a world of a difference on my leveling. Then the leveling with the leveling bolts on the rear of the lamp.

For an adjustment, would you recommend a small washer between the bracket and the standoff that threads onto the screw or where the bracket mounts to the housing?

[MiniStiGuy]

I want more output pics at distance like 25-50ft

[murdoc158]

Update:

 

Played around a bit more with my adjustments using some information from Matt at TRS. He recommended completely loosening the vertical adjustment, then adjusting the horizontal. The horizontal also adds vertical movement at the same time so I got the height up a bit, then finished with the vertical adjustment. I'm not 100% perfect, but it is FAR better than it was. I will try to dial everything in perfectly soon. Anyone that has maxed out one adjustment or another, try this as it should help.

[Scoobyvroom]

I want more output pics at distance like 25-50ft

 

I'll grab the tri-pod and see what I can do..

 

 

Update to my problem. When I pulled apart the headlight on one side I noticed the headlight swiveling. I then realized the ball had popped out of the plastic holder. There are three point of connection from the reflector/projector mount to the housing. One ball mount, the vertical adjustment right below it, and the left right which is the one that is capped off.

 

I think what happened was when I was pulling the soft housing apart after being in the oven, the much more ridged reflector, did not move but popped the ball out of the socket.

 

Just one other thing to check.

[istealfrombums]

Bump for farther output pictures and I still need to check out Drews!

[RedDawg]

just curious if i go to bake my headlights, and have fiberglass eyelids on the headlights, do i need to remove them first?

[mr_luv]

You should be safe.

just curious if i go to bake my headlights, and have fiberglass eyelids on the headlights, do i need to remove them first?

[mr_luv]

Guys just remember if your doing this swap its going to take minor tweeks washers or adjustments. If you pull the OEM projectors and stick them back in your not going to have the exact same leveling your going to have to adjust and insure proper leveling.

[MakaveliSK]

I just put in the DDM HIDS in my stock projects before I read this.....damn....there is some money down the drain. I HAVE to get this. Very nice write up!!!

[Drew888]

Sorry guys, I got preoccuppied elsewhere.

 

I had no issues leveling out the passenger side with mine and have made no adjustments to the "kit" at all.

 

My only complaint is that;

 

1) They are not quite as wide as I'd like but thats nitpicking really

2) If you reference the pic above you can see that the light on the right side of the left housing fades too much as the light starts to blend into the light of the passenger side lamp. Meaning it's not bright enough inthe middle.

3) The extreme edges ramp upward slightly and I'd prefer a 'perfectly' flat cutoff. You cannot see it in these pics but the wider you go the more you can see a slight curve upward. Maybe I need to loosen the laser cut bracket, rotate outward and retighten? May have to slot the holes to do that and I'm not going there.

4) They could be brighter. Since installing these I am paying more attention to others and I have seen some on the road with kits that are twice as bright and with also having a sharp cut off. These are on par with good OEM lights, not any brighter.

 

That all said, I still love these things but they could be better (they are allready way ahead of the simple HID kits) and if you need a bright highbeam... these things own all in this regard!! I had to use them on a guy once and it was comical how fast he reached for the mirror adjustment. He flipped me off afterward also (didn't care as he drove the last 3 mi. with his high beams on. Every other person seemed to be flashing him and he just didn't get it).

 

I really cannot stand idiots putting HIDs into non projector housings (and have come close to running them all off the road...call me crazy) and I have no intention of disturbing other drivers so I have mine set just a tad lower than most of you might have so...not a fault of the kit but I'd prefer a straight and flat horizontal cut off. The ramp up to the right is really lame. I understand what DOT was thinking but it's still lame.

[Catalyst]

If you really want width get the FX-r or the S2K's if you're rich.

 

Also, a key fact that many people don't take into account is that brighter HID's are not necessarily better. Especially with a sharp cutoff, the difference in contrast could make it really hard to see anything at all above the cutoff, which is not good! I'm not saying that is your case, but I think the majority of people would be fine with 35 watt (true OEM 35w, not DDM "claimed" 35w).

[Drew888]

Very good point. Never once did I ever think there was something I couldn't see or had difficulty in seeing.

 

It just didn't look as cool as the civic driving next to me.

[Catalyst]

I think I can safely say that your car looked better