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TRS - The Retrofit Source Bi-xenon Morimoto Mini Stage III Kit (H1) Walkthrough...

Drew888

By Drew888
in Exterior/Aesthetic

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Drew888 Veteran

Drew888

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Looking good Drew. My only concern as you stated is something you desire more of is the width of the beam.

 

Looking forward to some nice beam pattern shots.

 

 

I'm going to try to get my wife out so I can show you these compared to my wifes Land Rover.

 

Stay tuned...

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Drew888 Veteran

Drew888

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:yeahthat:

 

 

Sorry guys I almost missed this one.

 

E-mail Matt directly. His kit just hasn't been added to his site yet.

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Drew888 Veteran

Drew888

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Well even a land rover is not the widest of beams either but it will give some hint I guess.

 

Its all I have to compare it with and the LR3 has a mean pair of headlights.

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Drew888 Veteran

Drew888

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offtopic, but is that a stebel nautilus? i've got one on the m/c and am thinking about installing one on the car. did you just bolt it to the stock bracket or?

 

You have it right on all accounts.

 

I like the oem like location but it's not loud enough here.

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Tomkat1127 Collaborator

Tomkat1127

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HID's were one of the top things on my wish list when I went car shopping. The LGT filled almost every category execpt haing HID's and Bluetooth. You would think a Subaru car of this caliper would have had HID's (the STI's got'em).

Nice right up. Consider me subsribed.

Soon I hope to get up the courage (and $) to destroy my headlights (wife will kill me if it don't go well).

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Tomkat1127 Collaborator

Tomkat1127

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There are more affordable options that make a huge difference on light output. I run a DDM tuning kit for my HID's and lows, highs and fogs plus shipping to my door was $90. I am completely satisfied with the outcome.

 

Yes, but I am kind of in the mindset that our factory low beam projectors were designed around use with Halogens. Do you not get glare from the high beam reflector? What about warm-up time and useful life when switching back and forth?

On the other hand your right, it is cheap enough that I should try lows (maybe fogs too) as a first step to see how well I like it. It might be all I need. I want more light on the road and further down the road, mainly on low. I am use to trucks that sit up higher so naturally it shines down the road further.

The true HID retro fit lets me tinker with things (which I like) and no one I know personally has ever done it but the flip side is I am terrified I will break a very expensive part of my car or they will leak.

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Drew888 Veteran

Drew888

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There are more affordable options that make a huge difference on light output. I run a DDM tuning kit for my HID's and lows, highs and fogs plus shipping to my door was $90. I am completely satisfied with the outcome.

 

You have now what I had before the retrofit. As good as I thought it was (it was much better than OEM) it isn't even close to this, not even close.

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Drew888 Veteran

Drew888

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Yes, but I am kind of in the mindset that our factory low beam projectors were designed around use with Halogens. Do you not get glare from the high beam reflector? What about warm-up time and useful life when switching back and forth?

On the other hand your right, it is cheap enough that I should try lows (maybe fogs too) as a first step to see how well I like it. It might be all I need. I want more light on the road and further down the road, mainly on low. I am use to trucks that sit up higher so naturally it shines down the road further.

The true HID retro fit lets me tinker with things (which I like) and no one I know personally has ever done it but the flip side is I am terrified I will break a very expensive part of my car or they will leak.

 

On the DDM set up you do still get light straying above the cut off. It's mainly due to the rectangular hole that needs to be blocked off that's inside the housing.

 

The TRS retrofit is an almost instant on. Certainly works well for a quick flash as in flashing to pass. Not so with the longer warm up time of the DDM and similar.

 

I'd say go for it. It seems a bit daunting but, as anything, only the first time and when done you'll think it wasn't bad at all. I know all the simple tricks to help you get in and out with no issues. Just hit me up when ready if you decide to go for it. It really is quite simple and if you follow the walk through I can almost guarantee you will not have any leaks.

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Underdog Grand Master

Underdog

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Maybe it's only true for the '05-'07 headlights, but flicking the high beams with the headlight selector switch OFF, only turns on the high beams. (I think?!)

 

With the headlight switch ON both bulbs are lit when you flick the high beams.

 

This should be true with the TRS MH1 kit as well, correct? The "instant on" of the bi-xenon high-beam is due to the shield dropping out of the way, not the bulb warm-up.

The Crimson Dynamo

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Underdog Grand Master

Underdog

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Maybe it's only true for the '05-'07 headlights, but flicking the high beams with the headlight selector switch OFF, only turns on the high beams. (I think?!)

 

With the headlight switch ON both bulbs are lit when you flick the high beams.

 

This should be true with the TRS MH1 kit as well, correct? The "instant on" of the bi-xenon high-beam is due to the shield dropping out of the way, not the bulb warm-up.

 

Correction: When flicking the high beams (headlight switch OFF) both high and low beams come on.

 

Isn't it bad for HIDs to be used in this fashion (i.e. flicking on and off)?

The Crimson Dynamo

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Drew888 Veteran

Drew888

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Maybe it's only true for the '05-'07 headlights, but flicking the high beams with the headlight selector switch OFF, only turns on the high beams. (I think?!)

 

With the headlight switch ON both bulbs are lit when you flick the high beams.

 

This should be true with the TRS MH1 kit as well, correct? The "instant on" of the bi-xenon high-beam is due to the shield dropping out of the way, not the bulb warm-up.

 

 

That's correct, sorry I wasn't clear. I mention almost as you do have to wait about 1 second for it to drop. Assuming your lights are already on. If off they still light up significantly faster. I have sometimes forgotten to turn off my lights and when I start the car it's instantly on and only about 2-3 seconds to full bright.

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Tomkat1127 Collaborator

Tomkat1127

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You have now what I had before the retrofit. As good as I thought it was (it was much better than OEM) it isn't even close to this, not even close.

 

On the DDM set up you do still get light straying above the cut off. It's mainly due to the rectangular hole that needs to be blocked off that's inside the housing.

 

The TRS retrofit is an almost instant on. Certainly works well for a quick flash as in flashing to pass. Not so with the longer warm up time of the DDM and similar.

 

I'd say go for it. It seems a bit daunting but, as anything, only the first time and when done you'll think it wasn't bad at all. I know all the simple tricks to help you get in and out with no issues. Just hit me up when ready if you decide to go for it. It really is quite simple and if you follow the walk through I can almost guarantee you will not have any leaks.

 

I feel there is two camps here. The ones that say the plug-n-play kit is sufficient then those that have taken the leap for a true retrofit. Hard to argue with someone that has been there.

I want the best and sub $350 is fair price for true 100% HID retrofit. However, the bumper removal and separating of the lights still scares me. I don't want my nice unpaid for car damage, especially by my own hands.

 

Drew888 thanks so much for the offer of support and advice.

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Scoobyvroom Rookie

Scoobyvroom

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Well the kit needed some mods. The new plates TRS supplied in the kit, all the holes where too small. Also the screws where too short. Make sure you can run to the local hardware store and get some M4x15mm to 20mm long screws, SHCS, or phillips drive. Other than that the kit installs pretty darn easily. It's still daytime so haven't had a chance to see the results.
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