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Oils that our cars DON'T eat?


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^ Change it yourself slacker, lol. I got a case of OEM filters (the good black ones) for like $55 and my oil each time at Walmart costs about $24-$25 so I do it myself for under $30 a change.
I was 0.

 

 

 

And I'm still a zero.

 

:lol:

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We actually carry motul and will start shipping it soon. We'll also be shipping our 30k/60k/90k "Service in a Box" kits for DIYers soon as well.

 

-mike

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg

AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: paisan@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ya know... I'm not saying my car doesn't eat a good amount of oil, which I'm sure it could be worse, given that I see NO smoke, and have NO leaks... But after reading over some of the feedback on peoples Turbo failures and other traits seen on our cars... I'm starting to wonder if maybe with my car having 77k on it, what IF somewhere in the shaft chamber of my turbo there's something going on resulting in my loosing oil... Does this sound COMPLETELY far fetched? It's just bothering the SHIT out of me!

 

I also had a certified master tech for Mercedes take my car the other day (A friend of mine) And yea while I know he knows Mercedes and not subaru's like the back of his hand... He gave me a pretty sound report on the shape of my car mechanically... Didn't notice anything to be concerned about. I don't know... Just annoyed with this whole oil consuming nonsense as of lately...

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I didn't read the entire thread, so I don't know if I've posted in it.

 

I was eating Mobil 1 5w30, switch to German Castrol Syntec 0w30 and no more oil consumption. I use Purolator Pure 1 filters.

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Ya know... I'm not saying my car doesn't eat a good amount of oil, which I'm sure it could be worse, given that I see NO smoke, and have NO leaks... But after reading over some of the feedback on peoples Turbo failures and other traits seen on our cars... I'm starting to wonder if maybe with my car having 77k on it, what IF somewhere in the shaft chamber of my turbo there's something going on resulting in my loosing oil... Does this sound COMPLETELY far fetched? It's just bothering the SHIT out of me!

 

I also had a certified master tech for Mercedes take my car the other day (A friend of mine) And yea while I know he knows Mercedes and not subaru's like the back of his hand... He gave me a pretty sound report on the shape of my car mechanically... Didn't notice anything to be concerned about. I don't know... Just annoyed with this whole oil consuming nonsense as of lately...

 

I would start with a compression test. This will let you know if you have any leaking valves or rings. I've seen lots of cars with cracked piston ringlands that didn't exhibit any signs of damage except for oil consumption and dirty tail pipes. No smoke though.

 

-mike

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg

AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: paisan@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | T-1 Certified Amsoil Dealer

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

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I was eating Mobil 1 5w30, switch to German Castrol Syntec 0w30 and no more oil consumption. I use Purolator Pure 1 filters.

 

hmm, I switched once to German Castrol 5W30 and my car eat it just tiny bit less then darn Mobil 1 5W30. I've been using Rotella T6 5W40 for a while and it showed the lowest oil consumption. Thinking about moving to thicker oil, 10W30 to start.

 

I got a new BNR16G turbo last year, and car keeps eating oil. So unless both turbos were leaking oil, I don't think it's the turbo's fault.

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hmm, I switched once to German Castrol 5W30 and my car eat it just tiny bit less then darn Mobil 1 5W30. I've been using Rotella T6 5W40 for a while and it showed the lowest oil consumption. Thinking about moving to thicker oil, 10W30 to start.

 

I got a new BNR16G turbo last year, and car keeps eating oil. So unless both turbos were leaking oil, I don't think it's the turbo's fault.

 

 

Going from 5w40 to 10w30 will be going to a thinner oil at operating temps. It will be thicker at ambient but thinner at operating.

 

-mike

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg

AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: paisan@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | T-1 Certified Amsoil Dealer

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

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hmm, I switched once to German Castrol 5W30 and my car eat it just tiny bit less then darn Mobil 1 5W30. I've been using Rotella T6 5W40 for a while and it showed the lowest oil consumption. Thinking about moving to thicker oil, 10W30 to start.

 

I got a new BNR16G turbo last year, and car keeps eating oil. So unless both turbos were leaking oil, I don't think it's the turbo's fault.

 

 

Like AZP said, you'll want to stick with the T6, you'll need the 40w when the oils hot. The 5w will flow better at cold temps.

 

I'm going to start using Amsoil 5w40 soon, next oil change in the SpecB. http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/afl.aspx?CategoryID=5&zo=1231081

 

If your still using oil, IMO it's the rings not the turbo.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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Max, if you don't have an Amsoil account already, consider going through our online account (click below).

 

-mike

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg

AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: paisan@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | T-1 Certified Amsoil Dealer

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

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^ Change it yourself slacker, lol. I got a case of OEM filters (the good black ones) for like $55 and my oil each time at Walmart costs about $24-$25 so I do it myself for under $30 a change.

 

wow, you got it down pat. Im gonna drop my car off at your new garage, and have you just 'show me how its done'... lol

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The correct level is the lowest reading you see. Check it twice and make sure.

 

Same with mine after letting sit for several hours in my level garage. I take the reading from the side with the markings.
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So I'm just trying to get an idea AT ALL of whats going on with this oil situation/where it's going and/or if it's just BREAKING DOWN.

 

So I figured maybe a simple tactic of doing a quick swab inside the tail pipe tips to see what kind of residue I come up with, might help better assist in the idea of whether or not I'm getting some blow by past the rings.... (Just a random shot in the dark) Because if I was wouldn't it be possible to see SOME level of oil residue/carbon if it were getting through?

 

I came up with a very dry carbon residue like normal, no OILY residue at all?

 

Also any idea or feedback about this old school method of pitching some trans fluid into the oil supply (As a detergent) in an effort to clear/breakup dirt/grime/sludge?

 

(As a side note, I'm switching oils today, back to what I was using prior to see if there's any difference)

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It's not the PCV valve. At a rate of 1Q/250mi it's likely a piston ringland.

 

-mike

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg

AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: paisan@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | T-1 Certified Amsoil Dealer

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

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I've been using 1qt every 1000 miles since new. More recently it's up to 1qt every 5-600 miles. Mobil 1 since 15k. Maybe I should get a compression test--still runs great though.

 

yeah mine burned synthetic like that too. I run napa conventional and it goes 2500 miles before it starts to consume. I Change at 2500 to 3k miles anyhow so seems stupid to pay for synthetic just to burn it. synthetic is no better than conventional it just doesn't break down as quickly. better off just running fresh oil more often IMHO

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I had a cracked ringland on my 05 and dynoed at slightly above stock hp with an spt catback only. So, I would say nope you may not notice a performance degradation.

 

Mike

 

Ugh.... So what did that "Process" entail for you to resolve ha.... I'm REALLY hoping I don't have this issue at any level... But I have put some pretty hard miles on my car.... I have a spark plug replacement interval due now, so I think in the process I'll probably have a compression test done to be sure... Any issues at that level of the motor and I'll probably be parting ways with my 05 suby :(

 

 

I just switched back to the run of the mill Jiffy lube full synthetic for this oil change. I know exactly where my miles start and I intend to track the oil levels every 500 miles! I'm HOPING I can get to close to 3k without any consumption but we'll see..... :(

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  • 5 weeks later...

I use about a qt every 3000 miles. I use mobil 1

0w-30 in the winter and 5w-30 in the summer. Just switched to 5w-30 and it started using oil. Hmmm. After some calls I'm going to run royal purple 10w-40 now that it is warm out. I didn't really see any claims for royal p so I'll post up later after I see what happens.

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Been entertaining the same notion. I believe Pep Boys will do an oil change w/ RP. I gave up doing my own oil changes some time ago. With family, small garages, etc. it just got to be too much of a hassle. Plus, I don't want any screwiness with the extended warranties.
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