Oils that our cars DON'T eat?

[AZP Installs]

when you guys are buying the rotella stuff are you getting the t6 synthetic?

 

That's what we carry for our customers who like it.

 

We carry for our customers in the Tri-state area:

 

Amsoil:

5w30 European

5w40 European

 

Redline:

5w30

 

Subaru Synthetic:

5w30

 

Shell:

T6 5w40 Synthetic Rotella

 

Motul:

8100 5w30

 

I'm thinking of stocking some of the 5w40 Motul soon as well.

 

-mike

[BAC5.2]

I just used Castrol Syntec for my last change. Is my motor going to explode?!?

[AZP Installs]

You mean it hasn't yet? You might be better off dropping the drain plug and running it dry instead! OMG!

 

-mike

[BAC5.2]

'K, I'll do that right away. thx!

[bluesubie]

Thanks guys for the feedback.....

 

I thought about it a bit, and as yes it gets cold around these parts

 

(and for instance this morning was 9 degree's and I got a nasty little "Shreek" out of my motor area, upon turn over this morning Hmmm... But my car has always made some weird noises when it starts after sitting in the cold like that all night from day one, maybe not THAT loud, but it went away right away maybe a belt...)

 

I think I'm just going to give the amsoil 5w-30 a shot (Manufacturer recommended and all), since it will maybe be better for cold starts but hold to the same viscosity at motor temps, and this time, I'm gonna check it periodically to verify or void the possibility of loss over the course of time, or potentially just oil break down and Late OCI burn off...

 

And yea, ALL my mileage is back and forth on the highway and I LITERALLY set my cruise control at 80mph roughly... And I've seen some loss in the past, but not as much as I did this time... This is also about the longest OCI I've probably had, which I would hope the oil just began to breakdown and starting burning off at the end more so then anywhere else.

 

btw, seabass what the heck is UOA mean? lol... (Sorry if a stupid question)

 

and joeblow, "Shearing"?

 

And how bout the idea of going with a 5w40?

The SSO is made from better base stocks (pao's/esters) than the regular 5W-30, IIRC. It also has a higher amount of Calcium which is used as an detergent/dispersant for extended drains.

 

The DEO 5W40 is a more robust oil (higher HTHS, thicker viscosity, some anti-wear adds are higher) and it's probably as good or better than RT6 (DEO made with PAO base stocks). DEO also has a pour point of -51F.

 

-Dennis

[BAC5.2]

Found a small pond on my way home and was able to drain the castrol out. It is a little noisy now, but at least I dont to have to worry about inferior oil ruining my motor. Thanks for the tip Mike@AZP!

[seabass07]

Definitely less dangerous than crap oil. Castrol will literally blow up your engine. It's about as bad as mobil 1, which will actually eat through your pistons and cylinder walls.

[BAC5.2]

I think the damage might be done already. It started making really bad knocking noises and overheating pretty badly at high RPM. I'm going to try 'driving through' it for a few days, and see if it clears up.

[seabass07]

It'll go away. It's just those remnants of oil burning off.

[AZP Installs]

I think the damage might be done already. It started making really bad knocking noises and overheating pretty badly at high RPM. I'm going to try 'driving through' it for a few days, and see if it clears up.

 

Also once you put in a really really thin oil you'll be in good shape.

 

Try straight -40w0 oil.

 

-mike

[BAC5.2]

My wife had a gallon of EVOO in the pantry. I used it, and everything seems OK. The engine bay smells delicious and the noise has quieted down substantially. I think I'm good to go!

[seabass07]

Bacon grease is better if you are going to drive it hard.

[BAC5.2]

It gets a little too cold for BG in Maryland, EVOO has a much lower pour point. Maybe I'll try it out in the summer though, with an oil-pan heater!

[bluesubie]

Our full-line of proven biobased lubricants gives our customers enhanced vegetable lubricant performance from soy, corn, canola, sunflower ...

 

Renewable Lubricants Inc.

 

 

-Dennis

[spartan]

Used to go through about 1/2 to 1 qt between changes with 0w30 castrol and mobil 1, Last 3 changes have been with rotella 5w40, haven't burned a drop since.

 

I have never hear of the link above but after some research it makes me wish I hadn't just change all my fluids yesterday (literally).

[IceCold81]

The SSO is made from better base stocks (pao's/esters) than the regular 5W-30, IIRC. It also has a higher amount of Calcium which is used as an detergent/dispersant for extended drains.

 

The DEO 5W40 is a more robust oil (higher HTHS, thicker viscosity, some anti-wear adds are higher) and it's probably as good or better than RT6 (DEO made with PAO base stocks). DEO also has a pour point of -51F.

 

-Dennis

So not to sound Ignorant (I'm no oil Guru) But you sort of lost me on all the spec and acronym talk....

 

Used to go through about 1/2 to 1 qt between changes with 0w30 castrol and mobil 1, Last 3 changes have been with rotella 5w40, haven't burned a drop since.

 

I have never hear of the link above but after some research it makes me wish I hadn't just change all my fluids yesterday (literally).

 

 

That's what we carry for our customers who like it.

 

We carry for our customers in the Tri-state area:

 

Amsoil:

5w30 European

5w40 European

 

-mike

 

Yea thoughts about a 5w40?

 

 

Ohhh and the "European"?

[AZP Installs]

We like the 5w40 for the March->Oct weather in the northeast, so ambients in the 50-90+.

 

The European formulated oils generally will hold up to higher temps (turbos) than standard synthetic oils.

 

-mike

[bluesubie]

So not to sound Ignorant (I'm no oil Guru) But you sort of lost me on all the spec and acronym talk....

 

Yea thoughts about a 5w40?

 

Ohhh and the "European"?

Most of this info can be found with google.

 

Amsoil SSO 0W-30 is starts off with a better base than the regular Amsoil ASL 5W-30.

Base stock info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synthetic_oil#Synthetic_Base_Stocks

 

It also has a lot of calcium which will keep your engine cleaner over a longer period of time. If you change your oil every 3,750 miles then this does not matter.

 

Amsoil DEO 5W40 is more robust and is a mixed fleet gas/diesel oil like Rotella. It contains higher anti-wear additives (like zinc and phosphorus) and higher amounts of different detergents (magnesium). It also has a thicker High Temp High Shear Viscosity, which is probably as important or more important than how thick the oil is. It's used more by European manufacturers. Low HTHS oils are geared towards fuel economy, high HTHS oils are geared towards extended drains and severe driving. See page 5 of this pdf: http://www.acea.be/images/uploads/files/20090105_081211_ACEA_Oil_Sequences_Final.pdf

 

It is made with PAO base stocks (see wiki link above). Amsoil AFL Euro 5W-40 is a low SAPS (Sulphated Ash, Phosphorus, Sulfur) oil and will have lower amounts of zinc and phosphorus and the viscosity is thinner than the DEO. http://www.lubricants.total.com/lub/lubroot.nsf/VS_OPM/1DDBB7B10BEBB4D4C12570DE003D3186?OpenDocument

The number on the bottle is the range that the viscosity can be, but is not the actual viscosity. You have thin 30 and 40 weights and thick 30 and 40 weights.

 

Amsoil Euro 5W-30 is also low SAPS and has a low TBN. I don't think it is even recommended for cars that spec API oils (ours), although it does have a thick viscosity and good HTHS.

TBN = http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Total_Base_Number

I wouldn't go over 3,000 miles on it without some data on it in a Subaru turbo to see how it will hold up.

 

-Dennis

[Sydtron]

I don't know about the region, but the Amsoil 5W30 was pretty popular among the MZRDISI crowd and that seemed to hold up well with the piss-poor PCV system on the engines. Not sure if it stopped the turbo smoke on the early models but it always seemed to be M1 or PP 5W30 in cars that were smoking. Not that it was in any way the fault of the oil, but the PCV system seemed to have issues with those particular 5W30s.

 

Have you seen much on the T6 shearing yet or if it was even appreciably changed to allow for better shearing properties? I seem to remember the previous SM rated Rotella shearing a bit, but not a scary amount, over a 6-8k interval.

[bluesubie]

I don't know about the region, but the Amsoil 5W30 was pretty popular among the MZRDISI crowd and that seemed to hold up well with the piss-poor PCV system on the engines. Not sure if it stopped the turbo smoke on the early models but it always seemed to be M1 or PP 5W30 in cars that were smoking. Not that it was in any way the fault of the oil, but the PCV system seemed to have issues with those particular 5W30s.

 

Have you seen much on the T6 shearing yet or if it was even appreciably changed to allow for better shearing properties? I seem to remember the previous SM rated Rotella shearing a bit, but not a scary amount, over a 6-8k interval.

Wasn't 5W-40 recommended as a band-aid as part of the test for the PCV and then dealers switched back to 5W-30?

 

I seem to recall maybe one T6 uoa where it sheared to a 30 grade. I have a bit of oilshearophobia, but there are a lot of experts that say it's perfectly fine as long as you don't have increased wear. There's a uoa here in the engine forum where a Stage 1 LGT showed zero bearing wear running Edge 5W-30 that consistently sheared to a 20 grade. Hopefully, he doesn't have wear particles to large to be picked up by uoa.

 

Some manufacturers supposedly have a limit that they allow for oil shearing.

 

-Dennis

[Sydtron]

5W40 was the bandaid fix, yeah. The MS3/6/CX-7 should have all been running it anyway, not like there was much point in trying to improve the fuel mileage of turbocharged cars to the point of thinning the oil spec.

 

As far as shearing goes I'm too gunshy to run the oil for very long since there's really not enough of it IMO to keep soot suspended so I'm just following the 3750 intervals. Plus, my commute is 10 miles and absolutely destroys my oil (I never had a UOA that pointed toward being capable of running an oil past 5000miles) I can see the lure of $20/gallon T6 being offset by the shear issues if you ran it for extended periods.

[caramall2]

I've run Total Quartz Energy 9000 5w40 the last couple years (including track days) and have been very pleased with it (used to be Elf brand). Have read nothing but good things about it as well. I generally change out oil at 3k...4k max.

 

Not that it necessarily helps reduce consumption (my goal was less oil in the engine intake air stream, intercooler, etc.), but recently I installed the Grimmspeed air/oil separator.

[AZP Installs]

Elf is one of the top rated oils as far as I know, I didn't know that they changed their branding. I'll have to look into carrying that.

 

-mike

[Kingfisher]

A little late to the party but... my '05 LGT w/ 5MT started going through about a 3/4 quart every 3k? I had a scare a while back. Put about 6k between oil changes and went to check it one day w/ nada on the dipstick. :/ My own damn fault of course, but the amount of usage really caught me by surprise. I've had high performance cars before and never had this issue, but admittedly, this is my first turbo.

 

After that I switched to Pennzoil Platinum Full Synth. I'm about 1700 miles in and still full. No usage apparently so far. However, I did have to take it in this past week to have the valve cover gaskets, oil pump seal, and several other seals replaced due to oil leaks. All since I changed to synthetic. I was under the impression that leaking after switching to synthetic was a thing of the past and anything else was internet forum hoo-ha, but my experience as of late leads me to believe that there is still something there, i.e. that the potential is still there that it might give you a problem regardless of seal swell additives, etc.

 

Fortunately, the extended warranty covered the leaks and I'll take the trade off in consumption any day... i.e. I will continue to run synthetic until such time as we trade off the car.

 

Anyway, I know this might be a bit off topic considering the path this thread has gone down but I thought I'd throw it out there... my $.02

[BigBlack-V]

My 04 WRX ate Mobile 1 5w-30 synthetic like crazy then i read on how it sucked it our cars so I switched to Rotella-T 5w-40 synthetic and its worked great, doesnt burn much at all.