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Koni Shock/Strut & Epic Engineering Spring Install


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We've had to use an 8ft breaker bar with the car on the lift.

 

-Mike Paisan

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg

Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.

Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

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They refuse to return my phone call. Keep calling them, but no dice. Think they might have sold it and don't want to own up to it.
- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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They refuse to return my phone call. Keep calling them, but no dice. Think they might have sold it and don't want to own up to it.

Jeeez--I really put more faith in them. I was even going to throw them some dyno business at one point. I'll call them when I can.

Tits mcgee
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So I took the car to a friend's shop to get the rear lower bolt loose. First he tried a snap-on 18v impact on it. Nothing. Moved up to a 1000 ft/lb air impact gun and after about 10 minutes per side working on the nut, they were free.

 

Rest of the rear install was a snap. Using a spring compressor is definitely the slowest part of the process. Should have just bought new rear hardware.

 

Going to run the stock front setup with the Koni/Eibach in the rear for a week since I ran out of daylight and energy today.

 

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

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Has anybody found a replacement bolt for the front insert bottom bolt allen key thing? Id rather have a normal bolt on there for torquing and such.. the size that I have seen on forums doesn't seem easy to come by.M12 x 1.5 x 25mm Grade 8

M12 x 1.5 x 25mm Grade 8

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I never had an issue torquing that bolt to spec--and you only do it once with locktite, so not too big a deal.

 

I dont have an allen key socket that would fit my torque wrench. But its probably cheaper/easier to buy a single one of those for this than to buy a set of bolts.

 

Down the line I would think it would be easier to remove a rusted/stuck bolt vs an allen, but I guess I probably dont need to be concerned with that.

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Down the line I would think it would be easier to remove a rusted/stuck bolt vs an allen, but I guess I probably dont need to be concerned with that.

 

This sounds like a problem for future mastamoon, not present mastamoon.

 

#yoloswagwtfidontknowwhatimdoingwiththenumbersign

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I dont have an allen key socket that would fit my torque wrench. But its probably cheaper/easier to buy a single one of those for this than to buy a set of bolts.

 

Down the line I would think it would be easier to remove a rusted/stuck bolt vs an allen, but I guess I probably dont need to be concerned with that.

 

I snapped one of my adapters trying to get my 3/8" drive hex socket to work on my 1/2" drive torque wrench. Just went to the auto parts store and bought the one size I needed in 1/2" drive for a few bucks.

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I snapped one of my adapters trying to get my 3/8" drive hex socket to work on my 1/2" drive torque wrench. Just went to the auto parts store and bought the one size I needed in 1/2" drive for a few bucks.

 

Yeah thats what Ill end up doing. Ive ended up with quite a few new tools for this install...

 

1. Harbor Freight Electric Impact (good for nothing so far).

2. Harbor Freight Impact Sockets

3. Propane Torch (good for nothing so far).

4. Harbor Freight PassThrough socket set (broken already but still works).

5. Pipe Cutter from Lowes (should be a good one).

6. Harbor Freight 3lb mini sledge hammer.

 

Really stinks that the Impact gun will end up being a wheel lug remover for the most part, but it was on sale for $35 and had a 20% off coupon so I guess it was worth it. :)

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I dunno if it's any better than the harbor freight unit, but the Kobalt electric impact I picked up from Lowes made quick work of my axle nuts.

 

...then again....Texas car FTMFW :lol:

 

Looks much nicer than the HF one I got.. specs are better also 350 vs 230ft/lb, but is almost 5x the price.

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Anyone know if it will be an issue I accidentally cut the stock shock 5mm shorter than supposed to. Cut 45mm instead of 40mm. Only did it to 1 side. Never installed these before on this car so not sure if this will pose an issue or not.

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Anyone know if it will be an issue I accidentally cut the stock shock 5mm shorter than supposed to. Cut 45mm instead of 40mm. Only did it to 1 side. Never installed these before on this car so not sure if this will pose an issue or not.

 

If you have everything in hand just drop one of the inserts into the housing. If it bottoms out before the "nubs" on the insert contact the housing, you cut to much. If it rests on the "nubs" and you'll need to thread a bolt in order to pull the strut further into the housing, you should be fine I would think.

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Not currently in stock :(

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Yeah if you cut too short you will need a new housing.

 

-Mike Paisan

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg

Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.

Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

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Do you know how short is too short? Or is any shorter than the 46mm you're supposed to too short?

 

I think if you cut it to the instructions it may be too short.

 

As another poster said, stick your insert into it, if it bottoms out and the nubs on the insert are not below the cut, then you cut too much.

 

-Mike Paisan

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg

Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.

Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

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