I Donated bucko3the7man Posted August 23, 2013 I Donated Share Posted August 23, 2013 (edited) When adjusting the Konis I have to lift the car right? Don't think so, if you do then i've been doing it wrong the whole time. I always adjust them with the car on the ground Edited August 23, 2013 by bucko3the7man Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted August 23, 2013 Share Posted August 23, 2013 When adjusting the Konis I have to lift the car right? Nope. -mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JermTheElf Posted August 23, 2013 Share Posted August 23, 2013 I installed this combo back in May. Since June I've had this nasty squeak in the rear. I used the plastic loom isolator just as shown. I greased sway bar bushings just to make sure they weren't the issue to no avail. When it rains out, the squeaking goes away. I'm going to have to dismantle the assemblies. Should the bottom of the spring rest on anything besides the metal ring on the shock? Should I grease the top rubber where it contacts the spring? Should I grease the coils? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted August 23, 2013 Share Posted August 23, 2013 Did you cheap out and reuse the top hats? There is also another rubber bushing that has been identified as a culprit, but I can't remember where it was located. It might have been on the rear trailing arm assembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted August 23, 2013 Share Posted August 23, 2013 Personally, my rear still squeaks... I reused the old rear top hats, but the noise doesn't appear to be coming from that area. I tried putting wire loom all around the entire spring, but it was hard to do it without dismounting the entire assembly. I tried to squeeze it into the tighter coils, but it only helped marginally. It appears to me from bouncing the car and having my buddy listen to it (car was off) that the squeak comes from the lower spring seat, which is metal on metal contact with the spring itself. I bet if you sleeved that bottom part of the spring or oiled only that part the squeeak would disappear. I sprayed WD40 onto the lower part of the spring by the perch (didn't remove the wheel, used a straw) to see if that helped, and it definitely did. Now the squeaking has returned again. I may take the wheel off this time around and properly grease it with some M1 synthetic stuff and see if it helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted August 23, 2013 Share Posted August 23, 2013 WD40 is not a lubricant, it is actually a water displacement (WD) solution, so you'll want to apply grease on them. We have had great luck with the McMaster-Carr. Item# 5236K482, but you need to remove the springs and push this tubing over the coils (especially the ones close together) in order to make it work properly, we now do it as a precaution on all LGT rear Koni and/or Epic spring installs. -Mike Paisan http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/145749898/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/logos/perf1.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted August 23, 2013 Share Posted August 23, 2013 WD40 is not a lubricant, it is actually a water displacement (WD) solution, so you'll want to apply grease on them. We have had great luck with the McMaster-Carr. Item# 5236K482, but you need to remove the springs and push this tubing over the coils (especially the ones close together) in order to make it work properly, we now do it as a precaution on all LGT rear Koni and/or Epic spring installs.Yeah, I know, you replied to me earlier in this thread. I appreciated the input very much. I know WD40 isn't strictly speaking a lubricant but it does have SOME lubricant in it, like petroleum, which is why it only stopped the squeaking for about 1-2 months before it came back, oops. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted August 23, 2013 Share Posted August 23, 2013 Yeah, I know, you replied to me earlier in this thread. I appreciated the input very much. I know WD40 isn't strictly speaking a lubricant but it does have SOME lubricant in it, like petroleum, which is why it only stopped the squeaking for about 1-2 months before it came back, oops. Yeah, the oil/spray oil will get washed away, especially in this environment in NY/NJ where we get a lot of water spray, puddles, and misc. fluids/excrements shot up under the cars all year long. A good heavy grease will likely last longer as well. -Mike Paisan http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/145749898/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/logos/perf1.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tmemz Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 Got a question, im on the koni/epic setup have been for a couple months now. Just recently i got 10mm wheel spacers for the rear cuz i didnt like how my rota grids we set in more than the fronts. They look about even no but the problem is that when i go over bumps or a decent uneven surface my rear fenders scrape. It seems to be only on the outer face of the tire. Should i get strut spacers to help this or get my fenders rolled. Was gonna get them rolled/pulle but wont that bring the look of the tires to being not flush any more? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted August 26, 2013 Moderators Share Posted August 26, 2013 Rolling your fenders should not change their appearance--PULLING them will change their appearance (at least that's my understanding) "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted August 27, 2013 Share Posted August 27, 2013 ^This is the reality. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
just_phil Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 This mirrors my experience exactly... Personally, my rear still squeaks... I reused the old rear top hats, but the noise doesn't appear to be coming from that area. I tried putting wire loom all around the entire spring, but it was hard to do it without dismounting the entire assembly. I tried to squeeze it into the tighter coils, but it only helped marginally. It appears to me from bouncing the car and having my buddy listen to it (car was off) that the squeak comes from the lower spring seat, which is metal on metal contact with the spring itself. I bet if you sleeved that bottom part of the spring or oiled only that part the squeeak would disappear. I sprayed WD40 onto the lower part of the spring by the perch (didn't remove the wheel, used a straw) to see if that helped, and it definitely did. Now the squeaking has returned again. I may take the wheel off this time around and properly grease it with some M1 synthetic stuff and see if it helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted August 31, 2013 Share Posted August 31, 2013 This mirrors my experience exactly... I see you are local, if you wanted us to install the Rubber Tubing we've installed on several cars which seems to be doing the trick, shoot us an e-mail. -Mike Paisan http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/145749898/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/logos/perf1.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
famaya26 Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 Is it normal for my car to be "bouncy" after my Koni/H-Tech install? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sideways the Seven Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 I wouldn't think so Sent from my GT-P3113 using Tapatalk 2 -Brandon 2007 Chevrolet Suburban LT3 1981 Chevrolet C10 LWB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
farberio Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 Play around with the shocks, you need to match the stiffness of the shock to the spring. I would guess you are overdamped and should loosen the shocks a bit. Then again are h-techs dual rate springs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 Lower the Koni setting from ULTRA SUPER SPORT MODE to a mode that doesn't bounce. Set it and forget it from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the kev master Posted September 19, 2013 Share Posted September 19, 2013 On the wagons, how do you guys do the shock adjustment since its hidden under the trim? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted September 19, 2013 Share Posted September 19, 2013 On the wagons, how do you guys do the shock adjustment since its hidden under the trim? I cut a flap into the carpet so I could pull it out and adjust it. Or you can pull the rear floor out when you need to adjust them. -Mike Paisan http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/145749898/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/logos/perf1.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Now we have an Online Catalog where you can purchase Parts! AZPParts.com Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
famaya26 Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 Noticed a clunking noise on the Legacy front DS. Parked and looked under, the Bolt going into the Shock insert fell off. What size bolt can I replace it with? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the kev master Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 Best to call Koni and ask them. They will also send it to you if you think you can wait Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibr_adam09 Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 Somebody didn't torque a bolt down:rolleyes: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 Call Koni, they will set you up with new bolt, washer and lock washer free of charge. I had to get a new one because of a partially stripped hex head and I had a new one in the mail within about 3 business days. Torque to 55 ft/lbs. with LockTite. And check the torque on the other side while you are at it. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
famaya26 Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 Call Koni, they will set you up with new bolt, washer and lock washer free of charge. I had to get a new one because of a partially stripped hex head and I had a new one in the mail within about 3 business days. Torque to 55 ft/lbs. with LockTite. And check the torque on the other side while you are at it. I called Koni earlier this morning and the guy i spoke with told me they dont have the bolt and washer separate. Told me i needed to order a whole new kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 Take the bolt out of the other side and bring it to the hardware store. Buy a few extra, and a small tube of Loctite. I would also recommend getting a hex head bolt rather than a button cap screw like koni supplies. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now