Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

Koni Shock/Strut & Epic Engineering Spring Install


Recommended Posts

Just take 1 of the top hat nuts off when you arrive and park at the parts store, walk into the store and make sure the nut off your car fits the bolt, put the nut back on your car and drive home.

 

After recently pulling my suspension, the M12 that you guys are throwing around sounded too big, thats about 1/2" diameter bolt. I didn't remember it being that large.

 

Listed here it looks like the bolts should be M10x1.25 and for 3/8" spacers you will need a 30mm +/- length.

http://www.subtle-solutions.com/product_info.php?cPath=21_25_64_92&products_id=234

Edited by GTEASER
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks like I forgot that the Geo Metro was not correct. I found my post from earlier. If you haven't gotten new top hats (like you should), buy them from Tire Rack for $25 or face squeaks of death). Take them to the store and compare the stud.

 

From #121:

wheel stud for 3/8" spacer is M10x1.25x29mm. You can get them at NAPA
Edited by compsurge
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been looking but can't find a good answer. Do the Cusco camber plates work with the stock spring perches for this install to get up graded bearings with out raising the front end from the Spec B top hats? Or just go with the Whitelines? Thanks.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

They will work. But in all honesty the Cusco plates are rather weak. Bearing is single (so it is doing double duty as the bearing takes the load and pivots). They are also out of stock and must be imported so that takes 8 weeks. Go Whiteline at this point if you want aftermarket.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So just to clarify... It is a M10 X 1.25 X 29mm. At Napa, it's a wheel stud for a 1994-2000 Metro.

 

Does it matter which way the lower perch faces on the rear Koni's?? Doesn't seem like it would... I wasn't to careful about the orientation on the first one.

 

Side note: The black bolt provided by Koni to secure the bottom of the insert in the strut assembly was cracked across the bolt head from the center to the edge :confused: Didn't notice it until the assembly was completed...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Finished installing the fronts, with Htech Springs, today.

 

Job was straightforward and I'm very confident that I could def take less time when I do it next time.

 

Only bad thing I came into was one of the lug nuts was hot when I took it off and took quite a bit of time to remove it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • I Donated
^^ Thanks.

 

Anyone figured out how to adjust the rear Koni's as the supplied key is to short??

 

If you have a wagon, there's a post midway through these pages that show a DIY for making the adjuster a bit longer so that it works. If you have a sedan, it's not too short.

 

Edit: here it is - http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3847249&postcount=144

Edited by bucko3the7man
Link to comment
Share on other sites

^^ Thanks.

 

Anyone figured out how to adjust the rear Koni's as the supplied key is to short??

 

If you have a wagon, there's a post midway through these pages that show a DIY for making the adjuster a bit longer so that it works. If you have a sedan, it's not too short.

 

Edit: here it is - http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3847249&postcount=144

 

Wouldn't needle nose pliers work ? They make some that are really long.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you have a wagon, there's a post midway through these pages that show a DIY for making the adjuster a bit longer so that it works. If you have a sedan, it's not too short.

 

Edit: here it is - http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3847249&postcount=144

 

Someone used my tool! :wub:

Needle nose pliers should work as well, but in my experience it was a blind operation; mainly due to me not figuring out how to get the carpet completely out :rolleyes:

 

So just to clarify... It is a M10 X 1.25 X 29mm. At Napa, it's a wheel stud for a 1994-2000 Metro.

 

Does it matter which way the lower perch faces on the rear Koni's?? Doesn't seem like it would... I wasn't to careful about the orientation on the first one.

 

Side note: The black bolt provided by Koni to secure the bottom of the insert in the strut assembly was cracked across the bolt head from the center to the edge :confused: Didn't notice it until the assembly was completed...

 

I'm not sure if the Metro wheel stud is correct. The proper size is the one that matches the thread pitch and bolt diameter of the nut on the current top hat.

 

The lower perch shouldn't matter, but I like symmetry. The spring will compress and rotate into place. If it doesn't, a few good bumps should seat it. You really want new top hats, as the new rubber won't squeak like the old, worn rubber might.

Edited by compsurge
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • I Donated
I disagree. I have a sedan, and I can tell you 100% it IS too short!! Needle nose pliers will be a b*tch based on the amount of room back there. Think I will check the DIY :icon_tong

 

I have a sedan and have no problems using it. Is it close to the bottom? yes. Is it too short to be useful? No.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use