tgx4776 Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 does it need to be ribbed? I don't think it will make a difference because it's an outlet, forced air will have no choice but to go that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subikid90 Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 Yes it will be forced but since the box is square air will get trapped in the corners and slow the speed of the air getting forced in. With the ribs it will reduce the amount of air causing turbulence and slowing things down. -Subikid90 1997 Legacy GT 5spd & EJ251 w/EJ25D heads ~10.5CR 1998 Legacy GT Limited waiting for EJ22T hybrid swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tgx4776 Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 i have a CAD drawing almost done, minus the piping inlets, just a box design, its precise up to .001 of an inch, taking into account distance from throttle body to firewall, throttle body to pitch mount, adjusting for aftermarket strut bars, mounting locations, max airflow with least initial resistance, etc I think I am going to hold off until you get your unit made as I am worried about my strut bar and height issues. But I may take my own route on the piping. Also I want to do some suspension work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amp27 Posted May 12, 2010 Author Share Posted May 12, 2010 i was think about the ribs. i also need to change the shape alittle. the pipe just suddenly drops toward toward the back. i may stay home friday and work on it all day. on friday we have school but have relay for life all day. i already rasied the most money in the school so i can do what ever i want haah Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skibob6 Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 could someone please give me a set of measurements for the box etc. I would like to mock-up a cardboard model to scale so i can take it to school and have one of my instructors take a look at it. He's a F&^%ing genius... If there's anything that's wrong, or could be better he'd know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zues Marine Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 ^ it'll be posted tonight, im at work now.. had no time to finish last night Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subikid90 Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 Can't wait justin! I might get around to my design tonight -Subikid90 1997 Legacy GT 5spd & EJ251 w/EJ25D heads ~10.5CR 1998 Legacy GT Limited waiting for EJ22T hybrid swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaz98gt Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 Yes it will be forced but since the box is square air will get trapped in the corners and slow the speed of the air getting forced in. With the ribs it will reduce the amount of air causing turbulence and slowing things down. I was just reading about this today, and thought it would be a good idea to throw in! way to be, stealing ideas dude haha jk Joe, what do you think about the length of pipe in your model? any way that can be shortened, or is that just one of those things to keep air flowing without too many bends? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ineedmorepsi Posted May 13, 2010 Share Posted May 13, 2010 You guys are still not addressing drainage of water. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaz98gt Posted May 13, 2010 Share Posted May 13, 2010 no need. the guys who had the very very limited number of map tmcai's went driving at highway speeds in downpours and were fine. the bends in the piping are enough to stop water from getting in, it dries out fast, and you'd need to pour like a cup of water all at once through the throttle body to hydrolock the engine. so the filter will get wet, but that won't have any issue with the engine. our scoops are smaller too, so less water will get in than in the imprezas. if there is an issue for any reason, we'll cross that bridge if we get to it. right now it's about the boot, the box, the piping, and the placement of the maf+egr hoses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amp27 Posted May 13, 2010 Author Share Posted May 13, 2010 yea with my model. the water that might get in will be on the bottom. so you could just drill a hole in the bottom with a plumers dip. that way water always sits in it but it should be enough to not get sucked back into the pipe. like a .25 inch pipe is what im talking about. i dont know much about the bends. if water at that bad then ill just run it another 5 inches and make that big loop in the turbo space, then run it into the tb. i think a simple performane gain will be to put the hose before the maf. that the car is getting a more real reading. instead of the air getting sucked out after its been read. Agree or disagree?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zues Marine Posted May 13, 2010 Share Posted May 13, 2010 . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zues Marine Posted May 13, 2010 Share Posted May 13, 2010 so with the half hour ive had over the last 2 days, i quickly and roughly finished my idea up, the depth of the bottom part of the box is not exact since i started a precise drawing but just wanted to throw up a proto before i left... im gone until monday doing some USMC stuff out of town so i'll finish the actual model complete with water drain spots, efficient airflow pathways, and all that then.. now explaining the drawing above.. the floating thing on top is the cover of the air filter, the center, obviously hollow to allow air, not done yet as it will have mounts for the directional air brace i'll throw on when i get back, the bottom part is where the panel will sit,inside of the inner part of the box, resting on the L panels you see inside it, allowing airflow underneath the filter and draining of water, with the cover on, the box will be flush.. again, i'll need to finish up the drawing when i get back monday nite, i already erased the temp lines i drew for that pic.. i think you guys should starts focusing on the piping while im gone since the box is pretty much done (on paper) and im going to predict it will be impressivley effective but shoot me any reccomendations, i'll see em monday Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ineedmorepsi Posted May 13, 2010 Share Posted May 13, 2010 ---- plastic/plexi shield || spacer/peg === top of airbox S Space Side view ---------------------------- ||SSSSSSSSSSSSSSS || <-- air will get sucked in from this gap and on top where holes are. ================ Plastic/Plexi Top view ------------------------------ | o o o o o o o o o o o o| |o o o o o o o o o o o o | | o o o o o o o o o o o o| |o o o o o o o o o o o o | ------------------------------ My idea of water protection was a flat plastic piece of material same size as box with (1) 1/4" tall spacers/pegs at each of the 4 corners. The plastic shield would have multiple 1/8-1/4" size holes(think cheese grater) so air could easily flow through but not water, water would slowly drip if it did not slide pass holes due to not enough wind. Have the air box angle at the scoop so water would drip ofr shield if it wasn't being pushing from wind. I'm a fan of the hybrid, K&N drop in with fender/bumper air ducting all the way. http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/2774/img0941y.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaz98gt Posted May 13, 2010 Share Posted May 13, 2010 hmm that's an interesting idea. my only thoughts about it are: 1) how restrictive will it be in the long run? 2) if it's raised like you said, will there be enough space to have a box+filter+drainage plate under the hood, and have it all sealed up by a boot? I think it's a great idea because more water will be kept out, but at the same time I don't think it's necessary. if there are issues with water getting sucked in, then we go back and we could add it to the whole setup. thanks justin looks good! so now that leaves us with routing the pipe, which might be the easiest or the toughest job. lets first pick out a design that'll incorporate the maf and hoses and use the least amount of material, yeah? I still like the design of the impreza one, where the bend goes off to the passenger side and comes back around to the throttle body. it leaves us enough of a straight piece in the back for the maf i'd imagine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amp27 Posted May 14, 2010 Author Share Posted May 14, 2010 wanna poll or should be talk to some engineers. lets call cobb. or call boing or nasa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaz98gt Posted May 14, 2010 Share Posted May 14, 2010 CALL COBB yeah amp set up a poll for this and we'll see whta people have to say. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amp27 Posted May 14, 2010 Author Share Posted May 14, 2010 me. im to lazy. i have home work and i dont wanna. i cant have fun till i have all my homework out of my mind. which means done. ha and i have never set polls up before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skibob6 Posted May 14, 2010 Share Posted May 14, 2010 There are materials used to make covers for high flow cone filters, they're supposed to keep the water out of the filter without restricting flow too much. i think they're mostly used on STS rear mount turbo's but im sure with a little research we could make something work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaz98gt Posted May 15, 2010 Share Posted May 15, 2010 if you could find a link on that it'd help us out alot for a list of materials. I'm too tired/don't know anything about that to look right now, but I'll do some searching later. I'm guessing this whole box/pipe is going to be out of aluminum though? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amp27 Posted May 15, 2010 Author Share Posted May 15, 2010 yes. i hope it can be made out of at least aluminum pipe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skibob6 Posted May 15, 2010 Share Posted May 15, 2010 I found some water resistant filter covers. they only come pre-fit from what i see but i wouldnt mind cutting one up. Heres some links http://automotive.become.com/air-filter-wraps-prefilter-water-resistant-cone-shape-fits-filter-pn-700472-739646--compare-prices--c214278080 http://www.flipmeisters.com/products/kn--emgo-filters/water-resistant-filter-wrap-for-under-bearclaw-filter-sets/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zues Marine Posted May 17, 2010 Share Posted May 17, 2010 piping to cone or drop in would be more than likely disastrous Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skibob6 Posted May 18, 2010 Share Posted May 18, 2010 ^ whatever is that supposed to mean? ^ Anyways... I was wondering if any had a solid set of dimensions yet or any rough dimensions or really anything at all i could use to make an acurate to-scale model. It would be REALLLLY helpful!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zues Marine Posted May 18, 2010 Share Posted May 18, 2010 it means that piping to a cone or drop in filter would most likely be disasterous you cant put a bowl under the scoop and direct it to enter the stock position of the air filter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.