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Racer X (itsme) FMIC install


itsme

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Hey guys, I just installed another RacerX FMIC!

 

This time Drew888's sexy 08 SpecB got the treatment getting ready for his BnR18g! He has his sights set on some serious road track driving and I think he is well on his way.

 

Another FLAWLESS install. About 5 - 6 hours of lazy work done over 9 hours of horsing around. It sure gets easier each time you do it! If you have the option of getting help from someone who has done it, do so, it sure makes it less painful (extra thanks to MSprank for helping me with my FMIC install so I could help others)

 

Anyone in So Cal hit me up for install help.

Edited by LosAngelesLGT
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Shot of my hood liner trim job. I'll have to get a shot of my freshly cleaned engine bay.

 

http://photos.imageevent.com/mattg/legacygt/large/IMG_1300.JPG

 

I see the larger battery. This is what we did to LaLGT's car to help clear his Kirkland battery. Thats all it took to stop it from hitting the hood.

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Were you hitting the hood, or just making lots of clearance? I only had to do it on 1 car and that was because of a taller battery. No modifying the pipes, just cut out the foam.

 

I did not cut on Drew88's car to make it fit either. Just for my dumpster sized Kirkland battery.

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I don't envy you there. Even the stock size battery was a pain to get in and out. I'm loving my new one. Shorter, more narrow and sealed. And I scored it for $66!

 

http://photos.imageevent.com/mattg/legacygt/large/IMG_1302.JPG

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In for battery info!!

 

After looking at the piping a bit I got to thinking that Bryan should make a V2.

 

The only real pain to the FMIC is in three areas, battery access, the install of the pipe from the IC to the battery (only one thats a real pain to get in there), and the piece that hits the bolt on the timing cover on the drivers side (Maxx, we didn't put a piece of cut silicone pipe on that bolt and it's rattling more than I'd like. Now the bumper and beam have to come off/moved to get back in there).

 

Quick fix is one more pipe break just below the cap to the washer fluid tank and move the break above the battery a few inches closer to the firewall. That way you can easily remove one pipe and pull out any size battery without having to remove anything else. Oh wait...need a new piece of pipe for that one :( For the timing cover bolt...I'm actually considering removing that pipe and bashing a flat spot there instead. Don't think I have the skill to only do it on one side though. This way I might eliminate the NVH the FMIC added as this is the last spot I can see that's hitting anything. 05-07 guys don't have to worry, it's wedged in there so tight for you that you don't have that problem.

Edited by Drew888
[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/vbpicgallery.php?do=view&g=1586"VbGallery/URL]
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Did anyone else have any issues with this tubular metal piece on the pass side right where the pipe meets the ic? I tried grinding that down but didn't have the proper tools and now I don't feel like I have a good connection there. Plus, the clamp on the coupler at the top of that tube on the passenger side is touching the timing belt cover. I wonder if that's going to be an issue in the future....Any ideas?

 

Also for anyone who uses the GFB hybrid bov, how loose did you have to make the spring so that it vents properly? I have loosened my a little but I'm still getting turbo surge under light boost. So I'm wondering if I need a new spring or if I can make mine loose enough.

 

Oh, and did anyone have to trim the bumper some to clear the pipes going to the ic? I had to do some slight trimming.

 

I ask these questions just to make sure I've installed this properly. This was my first fmic install so and I'm a little nervous about doing it properly. I always get that way when doing a first time project....especially when it's on my car.

 

Lastly, I have this fmic installed and am wondering if it's safe to drive without being tuned for it? It won't be until possibly tuesday when I can go in for a tune and I want to make sure everything is ok.

 

Any help/advice on these is greatly appreciated.

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Compressor surge off light boost and throttle is common on for many BOV's. Its fine unless you are getting compressor surge on boost or off wot pulls.

 

Keith advised me to run out of boost until I was tuned. Limped it all the way from Ausitn to there.

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Yeah I know a little surge is ok...but the problem is that the piston isn't opening at all under light boost. It'll open under boost and vent but with real light boost, I normally would hear the air going against the blades a couple of times and it be real light whereas this is a little loud. The more I think about it, the more I think this spring should work...I just may have to loosen it most of the way.
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Did anyone else have any issues with this tubular metal piece on the pass side right where the pipe meets the ic? I tried grinding that down but didn't have the proper tools and now I don't feel like I have a good connection there. Plus, the clamp on the coupler at the top of that tube on the passenger side is touching the timing belt cover. I wonder if that's going to be an issue in the future....Any ideas?

 

I have installed 3 kits and NEVER cut the tubular piece. I saw pix of another members install and they did cut the tubular piece. I think it is slight variance in chassis. The clamp touching the cover should not be an issue. Just make sure the part touching is not the bolt and is just the flat part of the strap. Both my cars touch the cover.

 

Also for anyone who uses the GFB hybrid bov, how loose did you have to make the spring so that it vents properly? I have loosened my a little but I'm still getting turbo surge under light boost. So I'm wondering if I need a new spring or if I can make mine loose enough.

 

You will never adjust the spring enough to stop the flutter/surge. You need to order the lighter spring and install it. This is normal and is exactly why GFB sells the lighter spring.

Oh, and did anyone have to trim the bumper some to clear the pipes going to the ic? I had to do some slight trimming.

 

There are pix and vids showing exactly what is trimmed, including the bumper skin.

 

I ask these questions just to make sure I've installed this properly. This was my first fmic install so and I'm a little nervous about doing it properly. I always get that way when doing a first time project....especially when it's on my car.

 

We all understand.

 

Lastly, I have this fmic installed and am wondering if it's safe to drive without being tuned for it? It won't be until possibly tuesday when I can go in for a tune and I want to make sure everything is ok.

 

Yes it is safe.

 

Any help/advice on these is greatly appreciated.

 

William, I answered your PM. Figured I would answer here too, just in case.

 

-Mike

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Yeah I know a little surge is ok...but the problem is that the piston isn't opening at all under light boost. It'll open under boost and vent but with real light boost, I normally would hear the air going against the blades a couple of times and it be real light whereas this is a little loud. The more I think about it, the more I think this spring should work...I just may have to loosen it most of the way.

Sounds normal to me, I even get some compressor surge when I let off light boost and let off lightly with my Synapse. There is a thread about compressor surge in the turbo powertrain section. But really, compressor surge is really only something to worry about if you are getting it on WOT pulls.

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In for battery info!!

...(Maxx, we didn't put a piece of cut silicone pipe on that bolt and it's rattling more than I'd like. Now the bumper and beam have to come off/moved to get back in there).

 

Are you talking about the bolt at the bottom front of the engine driverside? I bet you can get a piece of silicone in there from under the car.

 

Quick fix is one more pipe break just below the cap to the washer fluid tank and move the break above the battery a few inches closer to the firewall. That way you can easily remove one pipe and pull out any size battery without having to remove anything else.

 

D, several things to keep in mind: RacerX minimizes the number of connections minimizing risk of leak/loss . The area that you would like a break in the driverside FMIC pipe would be difficult (but doable) to have an accessable connection.

 

When I installed your FMIC, and you expressed concern about battery removal, I suggested you to get a relocate kit for the battery to the trunk, like a lot of OEM bmw have, if battery removal is a priority. I find battery access to be important but removal will rarely happen. I do agree it is a pain that I have to REMOVE MY BUMPER BEAM to take out my battery :spin:

 

We can get together, yank the driverside FMIC up from your car and cut it with a dremel then stone tip smooth it and reconnect it with an additional silicone coupler. The only difference is it will not have a bead like the rest of the connections. I am happy to give it a go. If it works, you have to help me pull mine and do it after biotch.

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In for battery info!!

 

After looking at the piping a bit I got to thinking that Bryan should make a V2.

 

The only real pain to the FMIC is in three areas, battery access, the install of the pipe from the IC to the battery (only one thats a real pain to get in there), and the piece that hits the bolt on the timing cover on the drivers side (Maxx, we didn't put a piece of cut silicone pipe on that bolt and it's rattling more than I'd like. Now the bumper and beam have to come off/moved to get back in there).

 

Quick fix is one more pipe break just below the cap to the washer fluid tank and move the break above the battery a few inches closer to the firewall. That way you can easily remove one pipe and pull out any size battery without having to remove anything else. Oh wait...need a new piece of pipe for that one :( For the timing cover bolt...I'm actually considering removing that pipe and bashing a flat spot there instead. Don't think I have the skill to only do it on one side though. This way I might eliminate the NVH the FMIC added as this is the last spot I can see that's hitting anything. 05-07 guys don't have to worry, it's wedged in there so tight for you that you don't have that problem.

Well that is why I included the extra clamps and hump hose. Some had a problem and others didn't. So I left the choice up to the customer. A member had a tall battery and it was making the pipe touch the cover. So we pulled the pipe. http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060303.jpg and cut it about 3" below the bend.

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060304.jpg

That helped to clear the battery and make it easier to get to the battery.

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060305.jpg

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060306.jpg

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060307.jpg

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060309.jpg

 

So now it is much easier to swap the battery. That is an option you can choose to do. It took a few minutes to cut with a hacksaw.

Racer X FMIC for '05-'09 LGTs, '08+ WRX and '10+ LGT,'14+ FXT, and '15+ WRX TMIC Racerxengineering.com
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Thanks Bryan! Pics help...

 

Yeah I'm thinking about it. It would also make it much easier to snake that pipe up in there.

 

Bry, if you do ever consider any changes in the future that one coupler above the battery could go a hair above the oil cap which would help as well.

 

I'm headed to the garage to adjust the piece hitting the brake booster. That should be easy and I just discoverd it to be where the added NVH is coming from.

 

I can't wait for my 18 or 20g...Ha, still can't decide!

Edited by Drew888
[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/vbpicgallery.php?do=view&g=1586"VbGallery/URL]
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Yes that same bolt. I have tried to wedge it in there and it's not going to happen without again removing the bumper and beam. At least we know it will never fall out. ;)

 

The number of connections is kind of a moot point as there are already a lot.

 

I think I will cut it but looking at my schedule...that's two weeks away.

 

Again, can't wait to get tuned!

 

Are you talking about the bolt at the bottom front of the engine driverside? I bet you can get a piece of silicone in there from under the car.

 

D, several things to keep in mind: RacerX minimizes the number of connections minimizing risk of leak/loss . The area that you would like a break in the driverside FMIC pipe would be difficult (but doable) to have an accessable connection.

 

When I installed your FMIC, and you expressed concern about battery removal, I suggested you to get a relocate kit for the battery to the trunk, like a lot of OEM bmw have, if battery removal is a priority. I find battery access to be important but removal will rarely happen. I do agree it is a pain that I have to REMOVE MY BUMPER BEAM to take out my battery :spin:

 

We can get together, yank the driverside FMIC up from your car and cut it with a dremel then stone tip smooth it and reconnect it with an additional silicone coupler. The only difference is it will not have a bead like the rest of the connections. I am happy to give it a go. If it works, you have to help me pull mine and do it after biotch.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/vbpicgallery.php?do=view&g=1586"VbGallery/URL]
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I had the kit installed on my car yesterday with an hta68 (install is not finished yet).

 

i wouldn't call the fitment 'good' or even 'close' on the hotside. it could be just my car, or how we put it together,

but in order to fit, the 4 pieces on that side are now coupled at different angles to each other,

and i can only hope that there will be no leaks.

 

the other strange thing i relaized is that the hotside piping is smaller than the coldside - not sure if this has been discussed before.

otherwise the kit is good, requires very minimal trimming and overall is worth the money.

 

thanks to Bryan for the hard work.

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I had the kit installed i wouldn't call the fitment 'good' or even 'close' on the hotside. it could be just my car, or how we put it together, but in order to fit, the 4 pieces on that side are now coupled at different angles to each other, and i can only hope that there will be no leaks.

 

Gondor it is either your car or how you put it together. Did your installer look at the thread and watch the cutting videos? All of my pipes pretty much mate up nice and even. In Drew888's SpecB they all mate up perfectly straight. Leaks will not be an issue.

 

Can you post some pics? First of all, where the pipes are down low around the tow hooks and where the bad connections are...

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